chevyoneton
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Posts posted by chevyoneton
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It is interesting you mention .380, I have had a lot of it mixed in with the last batch of 9 brass I was running and even if I don't catch it before I run the handle up I can easily tell it upon sizing and just pluck it out and set it aside. I wondered how easy it was to get to a case you want to snatch back out.
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^ They did. I believe this gun has a window filling full length cylinder, so the thin barrel shank is supported by the frame, unlike in the 696.
I read somewhere that the two-piece barrel is supposed to help with this too. May have just been misinformation on an excuse for the two-piece barrel though.
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Revolver shooters wanted to add 8 shots, let them deal with the mess they have created.
No, WE did not! At least the six or seven actual revolver shooters I know. But whatever, things change and evolve. If it is good for the division overall then so be it. I will continue to shoot my old S&W 1955 as I can't justify a new $1,000 plus handgun (right now). Whatever needs to be done to make the classifiers fair. I am not worried about getting blown out by the eight-shooters, but they don't need to be unrealistically classified higher than they should either. That makes the classification system a joke.
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I would not worry about one Tula primer in a batch not going off, I have read that several times here from people using them. You just get a bad one now and again. This stuff can be maddening. Sometimes I just have to get up and walk away and come back in a day or two. Stuff has a way of working out if you step back and give it some thought or do something different. Loading .223 can be problematic, as can loading for the AR rifle. Lots of stuff to go wrong with the loading process and the rifle. Particularly when you are using range-scrounge brass and a home built franken rifle (speaking for me). It is a wonder they work at all.
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I am just curious. I dont really want to spend the money on one but would like to know how it works. I understand the top part and the cases down through the tube, but what happens at the bottom to get the case over in the plate under the die?
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I have an interest in this topic for several reasons. I own a few Ruger "9mm" revolvers, two 9mm Speed Sixes and a convertible .357/9mm Blackhawk. I have not shot any of them enough to develop an opinion on accuracy with bullet types, weights, or sizes. I do harbor a fantasy about taking my lessor-condition 9mm Speed Six and making an old style PPC gun out of it only in 9mm. It would be neat and with a proper barrel and load should be both fast (to reload with moon clips) and accurate. But alias I will probably never do the deed. I would be money far-ahead to just wait and buy a 929, if they turn out to be more than vaporware.
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Good idea. Ex-wife wants to bury the hatchet. I'll see if she wants to go to the range.
I never taught my "ex" how to shoot while we were married, I sure as hell ain't doing it now.
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I size & deprime (process) my .233 on a cheap Lee press bolted to a board clamped to the dining room table so I can be in the house with the family during the activity. I currently use the Frankford Arsenal pump case lube from Midway and like it a lot. I dump the brass in an old scratched up bread pan and give them a shot and shake. Since I have to lube anyway, and it is so easy, I see no need to spend more money on carbide dies. One thing, the lube instructions say to throughly clean your die and give it a shot of the lube before starting. This is very good advice. I did not and had a stuck case right off. Since I cleaned the die and give it a shot if I have not processed brass in a while I have had no problems.
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I will descent; I like the Smith & Alexander a lot. Not as big as others but that is what I wanted. I did not like the “look” of the Dawson on a 1911 (have one on my XDm though) and the S&A just fits and looks right on a 1911 to me.
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I have a couple of sets and other than some porosity in the castings (very small bubble holes) they work great. I would generally avoid knock-off stuff but am an infrequent competitor and they were in my price range. One thing is clear after reading some of the reviews, you may get lucky and get a good set or you may get garbage.
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I am running my 9mm at 1.155 to function in my 9mm 1911, and they also run fine in my XDms at that length. I have been running the factory ball on my 550b for over a couple of decades (really) and it works fine for me. I never run more than 2-300 rounds at a sitting though before I get up to do something else. I have gotten the little mark on the nd of the loaded rounds even if the "correct" bullet seater is installed. That is until the little hole packs up with crap. And yes, your bench is too damn clean.
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Yes I was kidding about grinding. I have the services of a very competent Gunsmith but he has not done this work before. The reason I decided on doing a conversion barrel for my 5.25 was becasue of the good experiences I have had with a Stormlake conversion barrel in my .40 4.5 XDm and an EFK conversion barrel in my 3.8 XDm. Both of those were drop in and work 100%. I was unaware of the video, and have no problem purchasing it. Thanks for mentioning it.
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Ha, I know this one. The purpose of Practical Shooting is to make brass. It is just that simple, and all this philosophical discussion is hogwash! But seriously, I dove into competitive shooting during the break up of my marriage and subsequent divorce. It was a very welcome escape from reality for a few hours a couple of weekends a month. I don’t drink, do drugs, or fish so I had to have something to get my mind off my troubles.
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I have the Chameleon and like it a lot. I don't ever see anybody else, at least around here, running on and that makes me feel special. ; ) Seriously, I like the elastic and the holders on the Chameleon a lot. But if you order one, do wwwaaayyyy ahead of when you think you will need it. Some come right on but mine got lost somewhere coming over the sea and took months to get here. I think they shipped it right away, it was the shipping that was slow. Sat on some dock in some container, or on the corner of some Customs Inspectors desk I suppose.
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I recently received my "match fit" Bar Sto 9mm conversion barrel for my .40 S&W 5.25. I have a Gunsmith to fit it but neither he nor I have ever done one. Anything we should know before we start grinding?
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No, but I have one in my desk drawer and one in the console of the car. Otherwise it is just harsh language for defense.
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I've always loaded the +1 by dropping it in the chamber instead of loading from the magazine
Interesting, in 40 years of shooting I don't think I have ever dropped a bullet in the chamber of a semi-auto pistol to load it, or even considered doing it. I have always loaded the chamber from a magazine, even if just "barneying up".
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I loaded a few Bayou 135s last weekend to try out in a couple of guns. I have been using Missouri 124 TC lead set out to 1.155 to feed in my 1911 9mm and just ran the 135 Bayous at the same setting. They looked fine and both my 9mm 1911 and my (Stormlake barrel) converted XDm gobbled them up. I only really shot for function but they look like they are pretty accurate too. I have been getting a little leading in the 1911 with the Missoruis and I hope the Bayous help with that. Also, since I had to set the 124s out to feed I figured I might as well run a 135 at the same length and still be set on top of the powder charge (100% load density).
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I agree with finding someone to store them, but be careful of options that might require you passing a background check to get them back (like pawning them). I don't know if an "alien" can even do so.pawning them for a week (cost would be a small interest payment but the store has the liability).
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Interesting. I recently ordered a pair of magnified safety glasses to try out for shooting and I thought they would would be dang handy around the shop. I was right. I found they work fine at all but the 50 yard line for NRA Action Pistol and the Mover. For some reason my Mover scores were worse with the magnified glasses. I guess seeing the front sight clearly is l;ess inportant on the mover. At the 50 yard line I could not see the target clear enough to properly aim. Also, they sucked for USPSA. I just could not get used to running around and random distance targets with the magnified glasses. Also, they do not work with peep-sighted rifles. I still can not see the front post. I think I may order some less strong and see if they work better for things like the 50 yard line and rifle.
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Yes, go .40. The initial "investment" in another set of dies is small compared to the long run savings in components. Brass for .40 is more available and cheaper, as are bullets. The bullets get bought and sent downrange and you get more .40 bullets than .45 for the same money. A few cents here and there on bullets will add up quick as you continue to shoot. I find .40 brass all over the range but .45 not so much. And I think in the long run you will be much happier competing with a .40 than a .45.
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I live in Florida and have for many years but have never thought about a non-resident or even US citizen for that matter, traveling around with guns. That said, Florida is in general a VERY gun freindly state. I would say, and this is worth what you paid for it, that you would be fine with a properly secured firearm stowed in the trunk of your auto most anywhere. Good luck and welcome to Florida, we appreciate you coming to shoot and spending money here!
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My Goodwill said if TV has 3 prong plug they would take it. Have one with 3 & a 2 prong.
They just want it for the cord.
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I have a Camp 9 and the Beretta mag Sub2K and like them both. The Marlin is far more "fun" to shoot and is a gas with a cheap red dot. The Sub2K has a terrible trigger that prevents me from liking it any better. I also have an old Cobray M-11 carbine that runs like a raped ape and is a lot of fun. In fact, I intend to mount a rail on top of the hand guard on the Cobray so I can affix a red dot and light on it for night-time Zombie matches. I have several of the original plastic mags for the Cobray but also have a buch of converted sub-gun (Masden I think) steel mags that work 100% in the Cobray. It was only after I got the KelTec and I was thinking about mounting a red dot on it that I remembered the old Cobray moldering in the back of the safe. It already has a stout steel hand guard that should be ideal for rail/dot mounting.
MAGPUL ANGLED GRIP ATTACHMENT W/O rail "mystery part"?
in Rifle - Technical
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I have the AFG under my Magpul forend and used the longest rail section that would fit under the AFG. I can't remember which one right now.