beechnutbob
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Posts posted by beechnutbob
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Medium flat rate box from usps around 16 dollars plus what FFL charges for transfer fee
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I just had mine tig welded and the machined back to original flat on top of battle. No more gas one lense
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I am left handed so I cut one oil of the mag catch spring and use my middle fingertips release, trigger finger along frame and right hand going for new mag. Works great for me
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Modified my 5x legion Flat trigger to be able to adjust forward travel after reset. I used the factory triggered and added a screw that will contact the FCU and stop the excess travel. The trigger looks like a MIM part and it is hardened. So going to need carbide cutters to do this. Pictures should explain what I did. You need a small milling machine but a good drill press and vice should also work as you are only using down load pressure. Need a 3/32 center cut end mill and 4-40 tap. Drill size for 4-40 is .089 and 3-32 is .092 so it will be better to use the end mill as the trigger is hard. When you start the hole from the back side of the trigger you are not starting on a flat surface so if you try to use a drill it will just push off. Use cutting oil and go easy when tapping the hole. It was not easy but results are good and I did not need to buy a 80 dollar trigger. Did ruin one end mill but that was only 8.00
I figured the worse that could happen was I would have a trigger with a partial hole or broken end-mill stuck in it but it would be in the recess in the back of the trigger so what, the gun would still function. The spring will keep tension on the screw so it will not move once set. 300 rounds so far so good -
If no attempt was made to point firearm at a specific target, as to make up a shot and the shooter was attempting to unload the firearm then off the Land of DQ. That would have been my call.
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Are you running spaces in the mags? I have two guns that don’t need spacers but one that will not feed the top couple of rounds if spacers are not installed. Now all mags have spacers and all guns feed 100% ola 1.16 with Delta Precision 124 JHP
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I made one of the free Idaho one and it works but there are better one’s. Will post picture later this week as they are at our club.
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Maybe this will be resolved if there is ever a ruling in it. For myself I will block targets if they can be seen past the 180 when setting up stages
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Official word from Troy M
They need to be hidden from the point that a competitor would break the 180 to shoot at them.
So so if you can see them past the 180 they need to be blocked with something. -
Official word from Troy M
They need to be hidden from the point that a competitor would break the 180 to shoot at them.
So so if you can see them past the 180 they need to be blocked with something. -
Was helping set up stages at local match and had a couple of targets that were available to shoot while advancing forward and if you went to far forward and shot them you could break the 180. Was told that there needed to be a wall or something to block them so they could not be seen past 180. It was a rule. I know it is good practice to make courses so breaking the 180 is not possible but I looked in the rule book and can’t find any rule stating targets must not be able to be seen if they are past 180. If there is that rule what is the number.
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Who makes an XDM left hand holster for the 5.25 pistol? I see Fobus has one but it cants the gum forward.
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If it is not disappearing then 25% of the A zone must be visible not just s slice
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Pickup up one in pieces, got it working but don’t know how it fastens to a 650 case feeder. There are three brackets for hanging it off the case feeder but can’t figure out where they go. Anybody got one they could send a picture of. All info on the web has been taken down as they had to discontinue offering them
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Just an FYI. Was working up load for new open gun. Precision Delta 124 JHP we’re running around 60 FPS faster than 124 CMJ Montana Golds from the same gun and same powder charge. No difference in accuracy.
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There are some 2011 sliderackers on EBay and any gunsmith with a mill and a dovetail cutter should be able to fit it.
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It appears t9and10 are available from the doorway. Shoot p1 move left then advance to doorway. Guessing door swings in. Gun up high left or right depending on timing of the targets. Take at rest swinger after the trap and turner are shot.
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I have a mill and I build my own for around 1500. If something breaks I order what ever broke and fix it. So far simple things, ejector, reverse plug. Takes about 40 hours and thats with a manual mill with DRO.
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Was loading 9mm major with 7.2 grains of CFE Pistol and when inserting bullet I noticed the case was almost filled to the top instead of about an1/4 inch below the top of the case. Pulled the case and dumped the powder and this is what I saw. Wonder what that would have done to the pressure curve. Thought I would pass this on. I have never seen a case like the inside of this one. There is one other manufacture of brass that has a little step inside the case but not as large as this one. The head stamp was MAXXTECH
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Replaced the diode with a new one problem solved. I guess the can go dim overtime with use. Good to know since I have several on different guns
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This one is four or five years old and I shoot matches almost every weekend plus weekly practice nights at club. Looked a friends last night and looking at the diode directly ( not at the glass)his gets much brighter when the brightness control is turned the last 1/3 of the turn. Will replace diode and see if that solves problem. Thanks
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Yes. Makes it clearer not brighter
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Can a diode wear out. With a new battery the dot is not a bright as it used to be... indooors it would be so bright you could not see the target without dialing it down. now at full bright setting can see target fine and outdoors in bright light can lose dot on white target. Just wondering if they can lose brightness over time or could there be a problem with the circuit board not getting enough voltage to the diode. Any ideas?
Slide options for p18
in Para
Posted
Get a slide that needs to be fitted to the frame. Will probably have to remove material from the bottom of the slide to get it to go on the frame. You might get lucky on the frame rail width compared to where the rail fits in the slide but pretty doubtful. Will probably need to have the frame rails tig welded to add material to make them wider them mill them back to fit the slide. I have had it done and if the person is a excellent welder when it is finished you cannot tell it was ever done. If you have to pay someone to do all that work would probably cost the same as having it railed, but once it is railed it will always have to be sent out to have a replacement slide fitted if it is ever needed