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MstngLX50

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Posts posted by MstngLX50

  1. Anyone have any thoughts/experience with these?

    Just ordered one a couple weeks ago and after using it I'd skip it. It's not very rigid at all, holster etc... just kind of flop around on it, inner belt is really thin also.

    Not nearly as well made as the CR Speed, never used a DAA so can't compare.

  2. Anybody that's used Ramshot Competition for 124 care to post their data especially the ES and SD's.

    I'm using MG 124 JHP loaded to 1.1oal WSP

    I started at 3.5 grains and went to 4.5 grains, I stopped seeing velocity increase at 4.4, no pressure signs but my highest velocity was 1060 and a full grain over the book max. That plus the fact that I was seeing ES of over 100fps I headed home...again.

    I started this yesterday afternoon with the 3.5 - 4 and was getting the huge ES and 4.0 didn't have a single round make PF so I came home and tried again at 4.1 - 4.5. I'd hoped with more powder they'd start to tighten up but I saw no evidence of that.

    I loaded some VV N320 control rounds as well and they performed as expected, single digit SD like you read about.

  3. I would like to get the PF up to 130. What would you suggest?

    Load 10 at 4.2,4.3, and 4.4, 4.3 or 4.4 should get you there. Just keep an eye on the primers for signs of pressure.

    For what it's worth my load is 4.4 in a CZ with no pressure signs.

    MG 124CMJ

    4.4 VV N320

    OAL 1.148

    Avg. Vel 1055fps

    PF 130.8

  4. Was the return to zero that far off that you needed to change to a Larue mount? I can deal with it being off a little if I remove it and reisntall it.

    Depends on your expectations I guess. You'd still be on paper at 100 but it was about 3-4" each time. I tried loosening it tightening it applying forward or rearward pressure while closing and just wasn't happy with it. XPS in a LaRue 110 is within 1/2". I do miss the side buttons though.

  5. I love the EOTechs, especially the new XPS models. The dots are much more precise than Aimpoints and even more so with a magnifier. I prefer the XPS to the EXPS. I'm not a fan of their throw lever since I switch optics depending on the match. A LaRue mount gives you the same height but with return to zero. I'd also suggest the -2 models with the second dot for distance shooting.

    I always hear about their lack of durability but that hasn't been my experience, in 5 or 6 sights over the last 10 years I only had problems with the battery box on 1 sight requiring 1 trip back to the factory.

  6. The Nordic barrel is from Wilson if it is the same one I got from them. It is an awesome barrel. Mine holds .375 with good ammo. It really likes the 77grainers with tac.

    That's the one, great barrel. On the last one the first five shots adjusting the gas block went under an inch.

  7. The DPMS Mark 12 barrel or the Nordic 18" barrel would be my two suggestions for getting started. The Nordic barrel is lighter, and a little more accurate in my experience. I use Nordic for practice and a JP lightweight for matches. I've built a couple of rifles with the Nordic barrels and am really impressed.

    The Syrac gas block is awesome, I'm finally confident my setting won't change without resorting to safety wire. Now I need one for a .936 barrel and I'll be all set.

    I would say a Krieger is definitely not needed for 3-gun, use the savings on ammo.

  8. I really like the idea of an MOA or MRAD reticle, this way I can just map out where all my bullet drops or holdovers are and keep a chart in my range bag.

    Couldn't agree more. I use a mil reticle and a PDA running Horus Atrag. With planning you can use one of the free online calculators to print out something close enough for 3-gun. With any load at any elevation I know where to hold, I don't necessarily do it right but that's a training issue...

    Another thing to consider with either ballistic, mil, moa etc...is the focal plane. If it's not a first focal plane scope then the reticle only works at max power.

    I just got a Bushnell 1-6.5 with the BTR-2 mil reticle and it is by far my favorite scope. It's replacing a short dot, and I'm ordering another that's how much I like it. First focal plane, mil reticle, mil adjustments, low profile scope caps, daylight illumination. Best scope I've found so far for 3-gun.

  9. 1. Extractor - BCM If it looks worn or chipped

    2. Extractor Springs - AFM HD when I replace gas rings

    3. Gas rings - BCM,Brownells when the bolt will no longer support the carrier

    4. Buffer componments - JP buffer spring when I replace the gas rings

    5. Trigger springs - AR Gold, haven't yet

    If you're really shooting a lot the gas tube and gas key can wear out and require replacement. Only bolts I've ever had problems with were no name so I don't worry about that, replace with barrel.

  10. I've had better luck with the 2 dot EOTech for limited, it's much better with a magnifier as well. The dots are sub 1moa and when it's dialed down low you can easily pick your hold on plate.

    If you're set on the C-More definitely get the 2 minute dot, anything bigger will be a pain. You can get long range hits with a C-More, it just takes more work. Your head position has to be the same each time, as someone already said there's a pretty good bit of parallax error at range. Also, changing the dot module definitely changes the zero in my experience. With a magnifier the dots on several of mine look better than Aimpoints, ie more circular less like diagonal football.

  11. I'm limited to strong hand loading only. I picked up a load 2 belt at the FB3G last October and have become a pretty vocal advocate of the method. I went from 8-9 second loads down to an in match 5.5 after only about 2 hours of practice. Practice times now are hovering in the high 4 low 5 range. I still don't like shotguns, but I don't dread a shotgun stage at a match anymore.

    I still practice loading out of 4 round caddies in case it comes up, and if I had the ability to load weak hand I'd practice that too, you never know where/how you'll have to reload.

  12. I feel like everyone is skipping over steel cased ammos greatest virtue, it sticks to magnets. My favorite part of using steel cased ammo is being able to pick up my "brass" with a large wheeled magnet. Not having to dig around in the grass, in the dark with a headlamp is a big plus for me.

    Hornady steel has been great ammo for me, I've shot about 3k in the past year or so without issue.

    Really the only downside is for the junior service rifle shooters I was giving my brass to.

  13. I got to use one of the Bushnell 1-6.5's for a few days at a media event we hosted.

    I'm completely sold on it and can't wait to get my hands on a couple. It's got everything I "think" I want in a 3-gun scope.

    First Focal Plane Mil Reticle

    .1 Mil adjustments

    Scope caps instead of giant turrets

    I've had short dots for the last couple of years and have tried a few others. The only thing I think I'm giving up is the dot, which I honestly don't use that much anyway.

    The only thing I think it's missing is something Horus like to deal with wind.

  14. You guys running low mass systems. How do you keep the gas adjusment from self closing. This has happened to a friend of mine.

    Pat

    After several attempts at loctite, rocksett, and finally bearing retainer I've drilled the screw and safety wired it to the gas tube. I had the opposite problem though, mine would attempt to leave the weapon within a thousand rounds or so. Ejection would slowly go more and more forward until finally straight pull bolt gun. In my opinion the gas blocks should come with pre-drilled screws and a couple feet of safety wire.

  15. What kind of lowers are they? Are you using "P"mags or "E"mags?

    With my lowers and PMags short of a sledge hammer that's not happening.

    If you've got EMags or the mag well has been opened up/billet lower with a flared mag well I could see it going further.

    Whatever the case I wouldn't worry about it too much, my STI's do the same thing. My first plan is don't run completely dry, backup plan is don't gorilla the mag in during the reload if I do.

  16. That seems about right to me.

    I see about a full mil(3.6" at 100) to 12 o'clock with a medium contour when resting directly on the barrel. More with a lightweight barrel.

    If I'm careful and keep the location of the barrel and the body position the same each time I can get a decent group. Changing the pressure on the barrel by allowing the handguard to make contact or adding/removing pressure gives me vertical stringing.

  17. Do SKB cases compare to these in terms of quality?

    In a word, no.

    I greatly prefer the storm cases to all others. I have Pelican, Storm, Starlight, and SKB.

    The latches, hinges, material, wheels, wheel placement, and the really wide rubberized handles make the Storm cases my hands down favorite. I've been using one of the larger cases as my suitcase for several years now. Other than wearing the wheels and bearings out a couple of times I haven't had any issues. Replacing the wheels is a two minute job.

    The new Pelicans are a step in the right direction, but in my opinion the Storm is still superior.

  18. The question is, have any of those using the CMJs found that the FMJs actually did lead?

    I didn't see leading in the barrel with the FMJs, just more smoke. Especially when I was using Tite Group.

    I use the CMJ and JHP/IFP without preference really. I use the different profiles to differentiate loads at a glance. For me CMJ is Production Minor, IFP is Open Major, and JHP is Open Minor.

    I loaded up some production JHP's a while back when Montana Gold was temporarily out of CMJ and it seemed that the JHP is a little more accurate for me, but not enough to consider dumping the CMJ. Like an inch or two at 25 better. That said, I'm not really into bullseye load development. Once it runs and provides acceptable accuracy I'm done. It could be the JHP accidentally hit a OAL-Velocity-Astrological sweet spot.

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