tortuga

The point of the drop-in test for me is to make sure the OAL for the particular load fits my barrel. When I first got my Shadow, I pulled out a can of maybe 500 9mm rounds that were orginally for a Glock 17L. Some 115, 125 and 147. Testing showed that all the147 loads were OK, about 10% of the 125s stuck and about 5% of the 115 stuck. By Stuck, I mean the they required a little push to seat and didn't drop out, had to use a fingernail to extract. Around 1% stuck to where I had to push them in and then pry them out. I put the fingernail batch in one bag, the 1% in another and shot them at the range. Out of about 50 rounds, I had to give the slide a tap on 3 or 4. All of the rounds that came out easily with assistance chambered, the 3 or 4 were the ones that were tighter. This is with a stock Shadow recoil spring. Wouldn't want that in a match for sure, and a lighter spring would have made it worse. Essentially, you want the loads to drop in, drop out, and headspace correctly.This can vary from one pistol to another thus the need for the test. I would actually advise testing all match loads even thought the OAL is good as a bad crimp can really ruin your day.

I hope so, as I plan to use .22 for practice as well! Have a Kadet kit for cheap practice with my CZ pistols. Not ashamed to say that I can't afford to burn off 100 rounds of match ammo every time I want to practice. It seems logical that getting the first shot off on target is pretty much the same; transitions from target to target, reloading,etc. should be about the same. Getting the follow-up 2d shot off is not the same. Can't hurt.

To be honest, I don't remember the load. It was 20 years ago. The load was a fair amount of 231 and a 147g hard lead FP 9MM profile bullet that was sized a bit bigger for the .357, loaded major for a 6" 586 with a ported barrel. No muzzle flip but you could feel it coming back and with 6 ports down the tube it looked like a steam train going by. Those days are gone, I'm going to shoot a 4" 586 fairly stock with 158g round nose. That will probably cure some of the problem. Mike, tell me more about loading with the strong hand on the gun. Always wondered about that. I assume you open the cylinder with your first few fingers, point up, palm the rod, then down and drop the load in with your weak hand? Seems like the angle is all wrong with the speedloader. Do you pick the speedloader out the "other" way around, so your palm covers the cylinde?

Post a picture of your target, without seeing the dispersion of the shots it is kind of hard to say.

I am starting over again in revolver shooting - used to shoot a 586 in USPSA some time ago. I have to start load development over again for a new gun, using 158 grain bear creek RN most likely as I still have some left and liked them well enough for accuracy and for guiding into the cylinder. The memory of holding the cylinder open for the last reload of a high round stage is still with me - That thing can get HOT. Damn near dropped it once it hurt so bad. Wondering if there are powders that burn cooler than my old 231 loads that might not get the gun as hot. If anyone has a pet load or good starting point for a 158 grain minor load I'm all ears.

Sold my DE .40 & 97B to finance a new rig; SP-01 Shadow on the way from CZ custom with a Blade Tech DOH, 2 more mags & dual mag carriers. Production here I come. Any must-have tools, spares or other gizmos that I should be picking up? I have a fair selection of gunsmithing screwdrivers, allens, roll punches, etc.. but have never worked on a CZ before, just clones. I do like to be prepared; anything that is unique to the CZ line that I should be thinking about? Also wondering what the best method for drifting sights with minimal marring would be. All I have are brass drifts. Oh yeah - If you have a Kadet kit laying around......

I have an old 586 that was beaten to death in USPSA revolver 20 years ago. It has a fantastic trigger, chamfered chambers and 5 ports on the barrel. Overall it is in OK shape but I think one of the chambers got bulged due to a bad charge in a .357 case. I think it was a case of too little, too fast powder in a .357 case. Still shoots and extracts .38 special OK but .357 loads are very tough to extract due to the one bad chamber.Main reason it has been in the safe for so long. I'd like to give it another lease on life. Looking over the forums it seems that a 38 special chamber might work; If I have this right, the 38 Super case is straight walled at .3840, the .357 is .3790. Reaming the cylinder to 38 super and using moon clips would be kind of cool, and I'm not worried about making major with it; USPSA minor or ICORE power levels would be fine. If all that worked I'd put a 4" mountain gun barrel on it and shoot the heck out of it.

Thanks for the input. Talked to Stuart at CZCustom, I am going to buy a Shadow from them and round it out with a 75B & Kadet for backup and practice.

I would love to hear about some opportunities to shoot revolver in Northern CA. Here's what I have to play with: 686 classic hunter 6", tuned up a bit 586 6" with ported barrel from the old open revolver days, probably have to put an optic on it if I can't find the sights. S&W 34 kit gun; why not, I'd run it in a fun shoot Still have my old Comp III loaders and two carriers, holster might be an issue. Have one with about 15 degree cant back, looking for the old forward cant rig but not sure it I still have it. Anyway, I'd appreciate any info on a formal or informal match somewhere around the Sac/Modesto area.

Hiya Guys; looking to start 2013 with a return to USPSA after a long layoff. 20 years ago I was shooting EAA pistols, basically gold/silver team configurations. I have always had a CZ75 clone or two but want to go factory CZ and compete in production for the first year. Back in the day I was a B class shooter. OK fast on the trigger and target to target transitions from the same box, issue was slow reloads, draw and changes from box to box. I am 6'4" and tend to lumber around. Always did better on stage with small target out far rather than big up close. I also shot NRA hunter pistol and tend to be more of a precision shooter than spray and pray. So - after a lot of research I am committing to a SP-01 platform in stock, shadow or custom form. I am trying to figure out bang-for-the-buck between them. If I have it right, the SP-01 is a good service pistol. Shadow has some cool stuff like the FO sight, comp rear, better trigger system and spring rates. Custom is the sh&*(t. Custom Target is Custom + adjustable rear from what I can tell. I don't want to spend money on a feature that would only matter to Masters, but don't want to miss out on a good package deal and end up paying more down the road for something I should have done up front. Forgot to mention I am in California. SP-01s are like unicorns; you hear about them but can't find one. CZ Custom guns are non-existent, and have to go through the SSE process as they are not on the approved roster. Also have to gear up for belt, holster, mags, etc. so that's why I'm posting this. Your feedback welcome.

I have an EAA competition frame from the old days. It is a small frame version in stainless, with the square trigger guard and raised checkering like the Gold Team frames. It has been converted to single action. Only marking is "Witness", it was not purchased as a complete pistol. Really want to shoot USPSA production to get back into the game, I think my open days are long gone. Any configuration I can build with this and shoot production, or can I squeeze it into the next class up - limited 10 if I understand it properly? I would want a 9mm for Production as there is no major/minor, but .40 for limited 10 - does that sound right? .40 would also be kinda nice as I already have a bunch of magazines for a Baby Eagle that should work. Long slide .40 top end might make a nice L10 pistol, but like I said production is where I would like to start.

I would like to put something together on an old EAA competition frame. Been out of the game for a while so not up to date on who sells what. Anyone know of a source for a long slide in .40 for the small frame?

Thanks for the input, folks. Numrich doesn't appear to carry parts for the small frame based on a search; the EAA website doesn't differentiate between small and large so I assumed they were all large. I called EAA and they said I can still order small frame parts and conversion kits directly from them. I also called Hennings but didn't get a reply.

I am trying to find parts to go with a 1995 vintage stainless match frame, but it appears the market has dried up. Need a complete top end in .40, preferably long slide w/ adjustable sight along with a slide stop. Any tips on where to look?