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tortuga

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Posts posted by tortuga

  1. That is a tough one. For me, I'd say you are within the intent of the rules and it is all good. Also nobody would be able to tell.

    However, in a strict sense of the rules - The firearm is the frame. You would be removing a safety device from the frame - the lifter and spring. If someone wanted to be really nasty about the rules, they could. Appendix D.4.22

    I'd run it and consider it a compliant built-from-stock-parts gun with a clear conscience, with a pre-b sear or a CGW sear with a spacer. Same frame, same slide, same guts as a shadow. Just don't call it an SP-01 converted to a Shadow or you are asking for a committee meeting.

    By the way I am considering the same thing on a 75 SA Frame. Same issues.

  2. So I think it is done. Not sure what to call it - I guess 75 LS is good as anything. .40 TS upper on a 75B SA frame.

    post-34545-0-14103700-1399091958_thumb.j

    The major portion of the work required was to hog out the dust cover to allow the TS slide to fit inside the 75 frame. This required removing a fair amount of material, but I think there is still plenty for strength. To be honest my idea was that it would be cheaper to screw up a frame than a slide.

    The dremel is your friend here. Coarse to fine drum sander did wonders.

    post-34545-0-64871100-1399092157_thumb.j

    The slide to frame fit was very tight at first - like almost will, but won't slide on. I removed material from the rails in very minor increments until it would start to budge back far enough to see how much had to come out of the dust cover without marring the slide. Once it was clear I mixed up some abrasive bore cleaner & gun oil to lap it in.

    The amount of material removed seems like a lot, but when a standard slide is installed it really isn't that noticeable - and how often do you look at a pistol from the muzzle end? This pic shows a 75B slide in place.

    post-34545-0-37589700-1399092658_thumb.j

    The sear cage required a bit of modification. The TS slide rubbed on the top of the cage at the point indicated by the arrows. A bit of work with a file and it is fine.

    post-34545-0-90236800-1399092440_thumb.j

    The Hammer is from a Shadow (it fit the slide and it was what I had), but it has the EERW touch and works great with a CGW sear for a very crisp 2.5 lb pull. It hit the bottom of the rear sight blade slightly, but rather than rolling the dice on a different combo and spending more $$ I took a bit of material off the face for clearance at the point shown by the arrow. A short wide hammer would be a better starting point.

    All in all, I am very pleased with the results. At first I had some concerns about the timing between the trigger bow and slide but after consulting with the experts I found that it was more like a CZ75 than a TS in that regard.

    As I understand it the CZ Custom route to building a CTS machines the slide to fit the frame, but if you have the parts and want to give it a whirl yourself it can be done.

  3. I thought this might be of interest to those that hate sear cage assembly. I think it would work great on FPBL springs and the FPBL itself but I use spacers.

    Check out the video: http://youtu.be/nOxbVK1vWWs

    It is a cheap screwdriver that happened to match the sear pin OD, could be a drill bit, punch etc.. that fits. The end is cut at an angle to allow it to engage the center of the spring winding and then rotate to pull it down into position.

  4. I have been looking at the relationship between the slide and the trigger bow lately, as it seemed my poor man's LS project had an issue. The hammer will drop before the barrel has come up into the slide 100%, which seemed like an invitation to firing OOB. I'm talking about the hammer dropping when the slide stop removal marks are lined up.

    At first I thought that the TS slide and the 75 Frame combo allowed the trigger bow to rise and engage the sear too early. When I compared 2 75 slides and 2 TS slides all side-by-side, the cuts in the slide seem to be very very close to the same when measuring from the breech end, so that didn't seem to be the cause.

    I finally put my 75 SA back together to compare- lo and behold, it does the same thing. The hammer will drop completely when the slide stop removal marks are lined up, and the barrel is not fully up in the slide.

    The main reason I am asking is I have had what seemed like an OOB experience and it wasn't fun. Can anyone compare their rigs and tell me what you find? FWIW the TS trigger bar does not engage the sear until the barrel is all the way up and the slide has traveled forward a bit.

  5. Stripping a round from the magazine slows the slide a bit and takes some force out of the equation. I never release from the slide stop without a loaded magazine.

    Hei guys
    It is the most relevant topic to post.
    I got my TS 40. Sometimes it fails to half cock - but in sertain condition- I trained " empty mag- mag change- release from slide stop" and I see that my hammer falling once every 10-15 slide-stop releases to half cock notch.
    Is it a sear? or a hammer?
    Funny thing is that I shot the gun yesterday 120 round and had ejection problems - but no " half cock" during the live fire
    Now the last thing that I did ( a year ago and I did not touch a gun ever since) was to place the CZ -TS checkmate low-profiel hammer - and i noticed it began to happen today.
    Now I placed the original hammer back. the sear seems a little wear out at the part where the sear blade is entering the hammer cut.
    How can I be positive?

    CZ Open

    I guess I should rethink the whole concept, it was really hard to machine a Weaver base into the slide, and the action seems funny.

    post-34545-0-04750900-1398390280_thumb.j

  6. I don't understand the survey question - I would think the choice would 9mm or .40, not minor or major.

    If you only made one comp, I would think one that matched the Shadow/SA slide profile in 9MM would be the one. Did I miss something?

    This is giving me flashbacks to the early 90's when we ran small frame EAA rigs in 9x21.

  7. That beavertail is butt ugly. I used to run an Aimpoint like that on a compensated .357 for revolver class, it was like having a beer can up there but you could see the dot from way off to the side. It felt like you could shoot around a corner.

  8. I'd ask Utraab to swap slides, and just kinda lean yours in there.

    Actually, I've had pretty good luck just centering the sight on the slide. I took a look at a few of mine and they all look centered FWIW. That is probably your best bet, I don't know of a bore-sight method for this situation.

  9. So it looks like I have a timing issue with the TS slide on the SA frame. The trigger bow is rising earlier in the cycle than it should, allowing the hammer to fall before barrel is fully raised up in the slide. I don't think it is unusual for a CZZ75 to allow the hammer to fall before the slide is fully forward, but it shouldn't do it before the barrel is locked up in the slide.

    Adding some material to extend the part of the bow that rises up into the slide cutouts when in battery should allow me to adjust the timing, I think.

    post-34545-0-20226100-1397258224_thumb.j

    Any input on what the best method for doing this would be? I'm not familiar with welding small parts like this, maybe brazing would be the answer?

  10. That Tac Sport has been sitting in Turlock for about a month, I'm still shocked that 99% of people don't know how great they are.

    I'm still shocked that I didn't even ask for a break on the price. I'll usally haggle a bit but this was more of a reflex

  11. Had a couple of small frame EAA witness pistols set up with comps, Basically a CZ75 clone, back in the day. They were chambered in 9x21, I suppose now you could just do 9mm major as that was over 20 years ago. Seems like they have fallen out of favor but I'm not sure why as they worked great. Maybe becuase EAA service is an issue.

  12. So I walk in to shop in Turlock of all places, lo and behold they have a new Tactical Sport .40 just sitting there taunting me. Glocks are going on the block to fund it, I didn't have that kind of play money on me.

    This is to be blamed on Kneelingatlas, as he sold me two magazines for this a while back. I had no choice but to purchase a pistol they fit as soon as I came across one.

    Now I will have 5 ten-round magazines, but need a holster and mag pouches. Probably get a blade tech holster, but what's the best deal going on mag holders? I'm broke, any cheap options?

  13. I will try that.

    What about taking a stronger recoil spring?

    You really don't want to force the round into the chamber, for several reasons.

    If the timing on the pistol isn't just right you could end up firing it out of battery and get a case rupture.

    You have to unload it once in a while, don't want a live round jammed in there.

    Pressure is going to spike if you are into the lands.

    Drop test your rounds and correct the problem would be my advise

  14. I want to modify my 75b, it's currently single action only, to lift the firing pin block much sooner than it currently is being done.

    I know removing it is an answer, but for competition rules I can not do this. So what can be done to get the fpb engaged as soon as possible? I hate having sooo much trigger travel on a SAO gun just to reliably move the fpb.

    Thanks.

    What type of match/class allows SAO trigger on a 75B but still requires the lifter?

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