IrishPsych
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Posts posted by IrishPsych
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Is this worth over manually loading tubes? What about with various brands of primers?
I'm debating burning my vibraprime since it hates S&B primers and winchester.
A primer filler should work with ALL primers.
Is that PAL filler available? Cost wise is it comparable?
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Update. The boring bar above doesn’t work. The carbide insert hits the inside wall of the trim die. Appears the total width needs to be around .450-.465. Not sure I’ll be able to find a boring bar with those dimensions. Basically it needs to hold carbide insert in the center of the boring bar to make it easier. The boring bars with an offset carbide insert I don’t think will work.
I messaged the seller selling the brass muncher bar to get some Info I’m him. My titan trimmer needs a longer bar.
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I checked my message from Titan Weapons who makes the Titan trimmer, similar to the honey badger.
They said any boring bar 3 3/4" in length and whatever collet the router has. My collet is 1/2" or 1/4".
I found this boring bar that uses a 1/2" collet, is 3 3/4" long and takes triangle carbide inserts for under $60. I'm thinking about trying it. The endmill I was using I don't recall did a great job.
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Anyone have link to the original KB/Ammo Mike 3D files? I’m going to sizing a lot of bullets on a Lee APP and need a feeder to go nose down. It’s close enough to my 650 where I may also run it for seating pistol bullets, not a 100% though as I like to have a power check.
does the orig kb/Ammo Mike design allow for nose down and nose up depending on need?
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Anyone have reviews on the swaging?
I set it up and swaged a few. Honestly can’t get a feel for the swaging. Followed the manual on where to place the rod. Says there should be 25lbs of force, how do I calculate that??
I guess I can prime a few and see.
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Hows the swaging on this? I Can't tell if the 223 I'm swaging is doing it enough. I'll have to prime a few cases or find that small primer pocket uniform tool. It looked like I was getting a bevel on the cases. I have an extra dillon case feeder I really want to use for swaing 308 and 556. Size/decap in 650, swage on Lee APP, then trim and load on 650.
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You know, I read some used a 9mm taper crimp.
So I swapped out the newly bought lee 38sp taper crimp and spun a 8 year old hornady 9mm/38sp taper crimp in and viola, perfection. No lead or brass shavings. Fell in and out of case gauge. Doesn’t make sense to me but it worked.
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I haven’t had issues loading 9mm/40/45/45lc in coated bullets. But today my first go at 38 special coated and I’m getting shaved bullets.
On a 650. Using the correct powder funnel. Using a hornady seat/crimp BUT backed crimp off cuz I taper crimp in last stage.
Using a 158gr .358 SNS bullet and seating to 1.450 which is NOT in the crimp groove. These 38sp rounds are light load...will be once I get going.
I’ve been reading about the powder funnels from DAA that are stepped. At $40 each it would be a $120 investment to cover all pistol rounds I load.
Would these powder funnels help significantly? I’m going to try adjusting the seating die, backing it out a little or changing from the flat step to the cupped stem.
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I've been reloading a while BUT am going to start reloading 38 and 357 mag. I've got plenty of powders on hand for 38. The 357 mag is giving me a headache.
I'm going camping and brother inlaw wants 357 mag loads with good velocity and blast. I bought 158gr coated hi tek bullets. Hindsight I think I should have got some 130-140gr so I can run more powder.
Question 1: Can I substitute small rifle primers for small mag pistol primers in order to use 296 powder? I don't have small mag pistol primers and can't get them before we plan to leave.
Question 2: I have fast pistol powders. Bullseye, lil gun, 231, Clays, Titegroup, Sport Pistol. These will work but nothing above 1000k fps I don't think. I can trade with a friend for some Blue Dot, should I do that? Also I can get 296 but dont have small pistol mag primers.
The lymann 49th manual has good data but every load for 357 was used with small mag pistol primers.
These 357 will be shot out of a S&W 327 TRR8.
If I make some plinking light 38sp loads, I imagine anything I do above midrange with 357 158gr my bro inlaw will be happy. They all like that big flash and loud noise.
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I installed a PRP extreme kit about 4-5 years ago. I'll have to check my email and see what kit I got as I don't recall. I know I got two triggers, a pre-fit and one I needed to file.
I had a couple light strikes during a USPSA practice session. I was using Tula primers.
Depending on the trigger kit I installed, is there a way to remedy this aside from just using different primers? I made about 600rd of some 147gr 9mm with the Tula. Most function but had about 2 light strikes in 3-4 mags.
Is there a more powerful striker spring I can use that won't change the trigger feel much? Maybe a titanium striker?
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I have a bladetech holster for my xdm 5.25 and its on a bladetech Tek-lok. I’m realizing it’s too vertical, too close and too high. I added a spacer to move it out and will test Sunday BUT I think getting a drop offset hanger is needed.
The Boss has the best reviews. Seems on par with springers version. The eBay version looks rough and not polished but only $30.
The hanger that intrigues me is the Henry holster turbo drop. He sent me a video to show how it cants. Looks good.
The cr speed c-bax also looks interesting. It’s not a T mount, instead slides on a bar and allows for rotation in addition to canting and up and down. All priced around the same.
Ill get photos up in an 90 min when I’m back from the gym.
Cr speed c-bax below
boss hanger
Ebay hanger
Henry turbo drop
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For $100+ I’ll pass. I think the ratcheting Weber tactical for $60 will do just fine. It appears they came out with a new belt too but only one photo so far.
I may try the $15 mod and buy a ratcheting strap and mod the outside of my cr speed.
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On 7/31/2019 at 11:06 AM, IPSCLUVERRR said:
https://www.henryholsters.com/product/turbodrop-owb-drop-hanger/
I have switched my rht,springer, and stoeger over to this hanger. I have 4 of them.
I think I'm going with the Boss. The ebay one only has 1 curved slot which means 1/3 the adjustment as the Boss. The turbo drop in the link above isn't clear how well it allows for cant. The elongated bolts seem going the wrong way.
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On 8/10/2019 at 2:48 PM, Yondering said:
Hey OP, what 135gr mold are you using? (Partly interested because I cast too.) The powder charge you need (and even the powder type, depending on bulk) will change depending on the bullet design and how much case capacity it takes up.
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=34&products_id=2029
I loaded up a lot, probably about 500, with 3.4gr of bullseye at around 1.125.
Ive shot these in an alox lube but haven’t since hi Tek coating.
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Not much honestly and when I do it will be more pistol uspsa marches. Picked up a Uberti 45 colt and might do cowboy stuff. Don’t have the time for 3 gun. Granted I’m in California so we often accumulate just in case we won’t be able to late.
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I’ve got a lot of 223 (5 gal bucket and 3 Ammo cans) and about the same in 308/762x51.
I bought a Swage It for the 650 and haven’t used it yet. Also have a router trimmer from Titan. It works but the endMill kind of sucks.
I was thinking about getting a 1050 to make 223 and 308 professing easier OR I can sell some brass and buy it processed already.
Thoughts?
Is getting 223 and 308 roll sized and annealed necessary?
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I bought an $11 smoker cover from Home Depot and a $7 adhesive zipper to make doorways in plastic wrap/diy spray booths, it’s at home depot too. Taped the zipper to the bbq cover, opened the zipper and cut down the middle and done, made my own cover.
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I've been running 147gr for a while now but got into casting and my 135gr mold drops bullets perfectly. I've been using 3.1-3.3 bullseye with 147gr moly coated and looking for loads for coated 135g now. Powders I have are Bullseye and ETR7 (which is titegroup load date). This is out of a glock 34 with reduced recoil spring and an XDM 5.25 with reduced recoil spring.
I'm looking for minor to tad above minor loads for production and plinking.
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I’ve got a dillon 650 and don’t want nosy neighbors to see a big blue piece of machinery. The dillon cover seemed too much at $50 and reviews were bad.
Came across a board post that had a user using a Home Depot bbq smoker cover for $11. I got it and it works but hard to put on because there’s no zipper. LIGHTBULB went off and I came across sew own zippers BUT I don’t have a sewing machine and my sister is back logged. So adhesive zipper hit me while on amazon.....then I remembered seeing those zipper doors at Home Depot for spray booth etc.
I present you a $21 zipper cover. It works great. Only thing I noticed it after it’s on and the seem is cut, you have to cut away the excess on both side of the zipper or it will snag.
[url=https://ibb.co/cy6kysz][img]https://i.ibb.co/WHkGHRS/F6-B8-A8-CE-E162-41-B7-8287-9034-AA9-E12-E5.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=https://ibb.co/71w2pFj][img]https://i.ibb.co/9rFs4jc/73337424-7-E18-4-BC1-B3-AE-4578-EE46-F2-B7.jpg[/img][/url] -
Oh man, a 1050 is tempting. I could process a lot of rifle brass. I know a local competitive shooter reloads for pistol only a few times year. He hooked up an autodrive, presses a button and makes thousands. Said he makes Ammo in batches of 10k as he shoots around 30k a year.
Ill keep my eye open for one. I could also use a larger Bandsaw for woodworking. Pricey hobbies I’ve got.
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Hi Guys,
I'm using a 650 that I bought used from a guy that makes and process ammo and brass. It's pumping out 40 however but I'm having issues with the 40 cases hanging up and not always dropping down through the red plastic washer. Sometimes a case will catch a lip or the spring arm that drops a case will stay in the back position. The black plastic ram, that engages the spring case feeder piece, is worn down the center so I taped a piece of 1/8" wood to it so it would engage the case feeder piece fully. It works but not 100%. I've decided I'm going to box this up and have Dillon refurb it. Wife doesn't know but I have a brand new 650 and case feeder in the attic. Plan was to sell one BUT not anymore haha! I'll setup the new one when this one is gone.
That all said..... I have been using the double washer and roller bearing. For the new press I was looking at those Oilite bushing with the low mass detent and spring. Any benefit either way with either one? I'm also gonna toss the ejector spring and get that 3d printed plastic ejector that fits over the shell place bolt.
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1 hour ago, cvincent said:
I found out which boring bar that honey badger uses and bought one from somewhere else. Cheapest I found it was 90 bucks. And you have to cut it down to length. I don’t know anything about machining, so I didn’t know how to read or measure inserts, so I bought one of honey badgers for 20$. So all in all it wasn’t a whole lot cheaper. Inserts are like 5$ elsewhere if you know what one you need. The boring bar does make better cut, no real chamfering though. I use an M die to flare the neck, and that will remove the inside burr, and a Lee FCD will remove the outside burr. So not really an issue IMO. My biggest issue was the mass amount of brass shavings clogging up the trimming die, vacuum manifold, and vacuum hose. The boring bar has a chip breaker so the shavings are smaller, I also plumbed in PVC pipe instead of vacuum hose. Seems to work great now. This is on a mark 7 650 so the feed rate is probably higher than manual press, but I would think that the shavings could still be an issue. They would actually clog up the trim die and the router would pull to much juice and trip the 15 amp circuit breaker.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIf you can remember the place you got it that would awesome! I emailed Titan, well messaged them on facebook, and they said any boring bar 3 3/4" long would work and whatever diameter my chuck is. I have both 1/4" and 1/2" collets and can always buy the 3/8" collect.
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Hi All,
I got a Titan Trimmer adapter year or two ago because I'm a woodworker and have the bosch 1617 router. I got it to convert 223 to blackout in a single pass and to utilize my case feeder when trimming 223, 308, and blackout.
That said, it's been 2 years and Titan's website sucks for info. I remember the endmill it came with was ok, nothing special.
I'd like to upgrade to a boring bar or the dillon cutter, will that work in the Titan?
Honey Badger sells their boring bar with an extra insert for $140, which seems high.
I'm not a high volume shooter by any means and my 650 is manually operated. Couldn't imagine I'd process more than a couple 300-500 pieces of brass at a time. Maybe a just using a better endmill is what I need.
I was hoping to get a cleaner and somewhat chamfered cut with a boring bar.
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The hammer takes two hands to cock on this gun, it's a very heavy. I'm not sure what the factory weight is for the hammer spring but it's gotta be 23 or more.
I plan to run some lighter 45 loads AND maybe do some single stack matches with it. Primers are federal/winchester/and Tula.
What would be a good hammer and recoil combo? I was thinking 18lb hammer and 12.5 recoil.
Pic of DK1911 here
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![https://ibb.co/71w2pFj][img]https://i.ibb.co/9rFs4jc/73337424-7-E18-4-BC1-B3-AE-4578-EE46-F2-B7.jpg[/img][/url](https://ibb.co/71w2pFj%5D%5Bimg%5Dhttps://i.ibb.co/9rFs4jc/73337424-7-E18-4-BC1-B3-AE-4578-EE46-F2-B7.jpg%5B/img%5D%5B/url){kind=link}
Brass Processing Service that Primes? Or Just processing.
in General Reloading
Posted
Any chance anyone knows of a brass processing service that also primes the brass too?
Might be rare considering the times.
I've got a bunch of 223/556 that needs processing and a 4 month old that doesn't want me in the garage doing it.