The Hangin' Chad
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Posts posted by The Hangin' Chad
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In the end I was reinstated for the match, but I was a wreck for the rest of it.
Due to the new guidelines I'll stay calm on this one.
But I would like to point out that this guy ruined your match on a poor call.
I don't have a problem with the safety rules, in fact I appreciate them, and I do the best I can to follow them.
Atleast in my area, what I've noticed is at the big matches, the RO's that turn out to be of poor quality, don't get invited back the next year.
The bad thing is, of the new batch of RO's that get certified each year (which is a good thing), one poor quality RO seems to show up at that big match the following year.
THC
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Thanks for that post Norm.
As a fellow 650 user, any time I ever experienced that kind of malfunction, I would take a toothpick and clean the grooves in the shellplate so the rims would slide all the way in.
Could you tell that the platform was loose without removing the shellplate, by lifting one side and pushing down on the other and then vise versa, or no?
THC
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Too my knowledge, this check consists of taking an empty gun, racking the slide and pushing thumb safety up, now squeeze trigger equal to about 8 to 10 lbs. of force (if grip safety operates make sure it is depressed). Afterwards push thumb safety down and see if hammer moves, it should not, if it does fall to safety cock or all the way down
, your thumb safety needs to be replaced or welded up and refitted.The other check that I've heard is the equipment or holster check. Empty gun in holster and said holster must be in condition it normally is when starting a stage (meaning unlocked if it is lockable and walk thru strap removed). You will be standing with a 2 by 4 lying on ground behind feet long ways going from left to right, now both feet must leave the ground and land on the other side of the 2 by 4 and you must be facing the other way when you land (basically meaning you must jump and do a 180 in the air) if the gun is still in the holster you are good, if not
, no good. But I don't know if they will let you retry with lock engaged, but if they did that would mean you would have to start every stage with lock engaged. Maybe this is why I've never seen this check done.If I am inaccurate or have missed something please correct me folks.
THC
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If you are going to play with the ejector and extractor, you need to go to Brazos site and read his article on ejection perfection. It is very important that the extractor isn't twisting, I've seen a twisting extractor cause exactly what you are describing. I go a step further than his article and use the weigand guages with a trigger spring scale and set the tension at 18 oz.. I've seen some open guns with a very good slide to frame fit run reliable as low as 12 oz. but started giving stove pipes sticking straight out the side at 10 oz., you're better off staying around 16 to 18 but the hook must radiused and polished to maintain reliable feeding.
The new brass in my press wants to hang on the powder belling die as the shell plate is being lowered, not the sizing die. As flex stated, unless your virgin brass has something wrong with it dimensionally I don't see how it could be causing any problems.
Hope this helps.
THC
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That's my boy
Yo Smitty, would appropriate to say "That's Hot" when you get that flare up?
THC
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87 meters.
But please do not try this at home, I am an experienced professional drunk.
THC
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What is the picture suppose to be of?
EDITED
I see you've changed the pic. OK
I feel your pain, I use to have one of the early Ericsson flip phones, it was the absolute worst phone I 've ever had (trust me I've had a few). I was saving that POS with the full intent of taking it to the range and letting it talk to the 454 Casull.
Unfortunately (when I was with my X) she threw the dam thing out before I ever got around to it.
IMHO Ericsson is the worst phone on the market.
THC
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Me personally, I,ve never liked the idea of removing material from the right side of the ejector, my guess is that is the reason the brass is flying back at you.
I prefer the contact point about 1/3 from the top with a precisely tuned extractor, radiused and polished hook set at 18 oz. (most guns can run reliably with less tension but mine won't, she's very loose and cycles fast with the sprinco).
In my opinion the full face of the ejector hits the brass more towards the center causing the brass to rotate faster thus exiting quicker. my gun will sling the brass, landing about 10 feet away.
Have you checked your extractor tension? Maybe it could be off (high or low) contributing to the problem, possibly readjusting the tension could change it enough to live with.
Hope this helps
THC
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AAAAHHHH
Grasshopper
must remain young at heart
THC
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What did they do?
THC
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I've used the new Armscor 38 Super before, although I don't think it is as good of quality as Starline, Winchester, Federal, Remington etc., I had no problems with it, they reloaded on my 650 and shot through my STI with no problems.
But the one thing that I absolutely f****** hate about them is the headstamp is the same between the rimmed and rimless.
THC
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Unfortunately your local supplier doesn't know what he is talking about.
I used to spray it right in the case feed hopper like some one showed me, but that eventually makes a gummy mess in a fairly short time. I also noticed that when I went to measure my powder charge, I would have to scrape out some of the powder that was stuck to the lube that was in side the case. I never had any igition problems.
I now have a plastic tub (about 1/2 gal. size), I spray 1/2 way down the sides and finish with a swirl on the bottom, throw in about a 100 or more cases, roll and swish about 10 times and dump, and no more powder that I have to scrape out.
I read on here somewhere, that someone uses a bag to do the same.
THC
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All of the popular smith's that I know say that they set them up by feel. I personally hate that because I appreciate specifications. I have a trigger spring scale and the weigand guage set (from Brownells), and have found that if the hook has been radiused and polished 10 oz. +/-2 works perfect for .040 cal.
But you can do it this way and it willl work.
Take a dummy round and put it in a mag, insert and load the dummy round in the gun. Now remove the mag and slowly pull the slide back until the bullet exits the barrel, when this happens the bullet end of the round should drop just a little, if it doesn't drop at all you are probably a little too tight, if the round falls out the bottom of the gun WITHOUT HITTING THE EJECTOR, you are too loose, bend the extractor accordingly.
The easy way to bend the extractor is to remove it from the slide and turn it around backwards and stick it in the slide, hold the slide in your right hand with your fingers wrapping over the rear sight, put your thumb on the middle of the extractor and put the tip of the extractor against the work bench and push moderately to bend. Twist the extractor around accordingly to bend for tighter or looser.
P.S. For an open gun I don't recommend this method even though it could work alot of additional information.
Hope this helps
THC
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My $.02
Don't know if this will shed some light but let me throw it out there.
I have a full length 5" slide with a 5 1/2" bbl (actually about 5 3/8"), the comp is the first gen Dawson (I think) with the last chamber cut off (done by me via my gunsmith) I also have 3 popple holes 1 through the bbl and comp the other two through the bbl and slide.
The OAL is 9 1/8". Do I call it a shorty, NO, heck I don't even know who built the gun (it has passed through many hands before it got to me, and yes she's pretty loose but going strong).
, and yeah I got her at a good deal (thanks Smitty).Now are other INDIVIDUALS (meaning not builders) out there doing the same thing I'm doing and calling it a shorty, I have no idea.My interpretation of a shorty is anything less than a full length 5" slide, although I do agree with Chuck on Barrel length I think it is less confusing to just look at the slide length.
I have had the privilege of shooting 2 of Bedell's shorty's and they are very nice pieces of craftmanship, they got the bling bling going on too
.I've handled some of Derek's pieces at the table and they are very nice too.
Hope this helps
THC
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9 lb. recoil 15 lb. main 180 gr. @ 170 pf 2 thin shock buffs, 1 on each side of the head (comonolli copy)
THC
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I've figured this out, this is the subway guy that lost all of that weight, appearently he didn't want to spend the money on a new uh rig.
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He'll be the next Deuce Bigalo
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Boo
I started with a Stainless Pro Carry which I quickly realized wasn't as competetive as a 5" model (in my hands). I picked up a used Classic Custom Target, added fiber optic front sight, magwell and mag release and shot it for about 2 years before getting my STI limited gun, and then shot that for about a year before getting my STI open gun. I'm very glad I did it this way because I learned alot with each gun which I carried with me to the next gun which put me that much further ahead.
I bought a used Square Deal B which I still have on the bench ready to make .45 at will, even though it is now partenered with a 650 capable of spitting out .40 or 38 Super very rapidly and consistently.
The path you are looking down is definitely a good one seeing as I've already walked it.
Let me recommend the Chip McCormick Power 10 mags from Midway, they are under $20.00 and if you catch them on sale they are about $18.00 or less. I know that there are mixed opinions on these but I use them and many other people do too and like them very much.
For spare parts I would recommend a recoil spring, link, firing pin stop, extractor and ejector, all of these parts are pretty inexpensive.
Hope this helps.
THC
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It definitely gives a new meaning to nut huggers
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Just imagine trying to explain the tan lines.
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I think I've had mine for about a year now and I love it for the price.
I use the dillon tubes in the adapter, all you have to do is take off the yellow or green tip, wrap one round ONLY of scotch tape around the end of the tube and it will fit easily and snugly in the adapter, works great for me.
I did find that some of my older tubes didn't have the blue tips with the cotter pin, they had the hole drilled through tube itself for the pin. The problem that I ran into was when I pulled the filled tube out of the adapter the top three primers would fall off because they stuck up above the tube. The easy fix was to call Dillon and get a few blue tips with the pins and slip them on the ends, they add just enough length to the tube for all 100 primers to go inside the tube.
I have 1 tray 1 large adapter 1 small adapter 1 Frankford large tube and 1 Frankford small tube the rest are Dillon. I can load 6 tubes under 2 minutes easy.
THC
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LMFAO
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Nice blaster
I'm guessing 48 oz.
THC
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As I suspected, those Barbie hummers aren't built very well.
, your thumb safety needs to be replaced or welded up and refitted.
Ejection Problem
in Open Pistols
Posted
Glad to here she's running good so far.
The weigand guages can be ordered from Brownells @ $15.00, all you need is a small key ring for the hole in the guage and stick the trigger spring scale in the key ring.
Caspian 28 does make a good point about new brass with weird coating and tumbling to get rid of it, although I've never experienced it.
I use CP and EGW buffs, I think they are identical. I did finally get some jams in my limited gun due to buffs a long time ago, they were fail to feed. A friend had to point it out to me, at the top on the sides of the buff you could see the rub marks on the buff from the slide rubbing it, what happens is if you shoot the gun long enough it will get hot enough to make the buff swell and make contact with the slide. Ever since then the buff doesn't go in any of my guns until I trim a V notch on both sides, I've never had a jam due to a buff since. I can post a pick if you would like.
Keep us posted CenTX
THC