missed it by that much
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Posts posted by missed it by that much
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2 hours ago, ysrracer said:
I swear I thought this was going to be about primers
So did I
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I'll say it. Lee loadmaster and proud of it
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I've used 124 hollow points before with good results. Just ordered 2000 more. Hopefully they're good as well. Nervous now
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2 hours ago, pskys2 said:
Had another buddy who had a carton (1500) of Fiocchi SPP's and I did pay him $50 for them, and didn't blink. Actually felt bad, thought they were worth more, but that's what he wanted.
The Fed 100's were bought in early '20 at the normal price, wish I'd bought multiple more flats though!
Right now I'd pay $250 for a Flat of F100's though.
I heard that!
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1 hour ago, pskys2 said:
I traded a buddy 1000 of Fed100's for 500 BBI 38 160's and he got them in a week?
Didn't really have the extra primer stock, but he was headed to the Nat's and running way low.
Yeah I just checked he still has the 160 grain in stock $103 per 1000, shipped says it ships within 2 days after ordering. Hopefully you didn't pay $50 dollars for the 1000 fed primers.
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BBI had 160 grain coated in stock several months and I received about a week after ordering
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Just now, Bill Schwab said:
Love them, but I cannot reach Herrett's...I've tried email and phone.
Hmm wonder if covid shut them down. Hopefully not.
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Ranch products moonclips and winchester brass
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I have one on my 627 the black version and like it. Works for me. Not sure if it has more adjustment than the factory sight. Can't speak to the 617 cause I have the c-more red dot on mine.
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I have two loadmasters and they have worked fine formanyyears. Saved money goes towards bullets, powder and primers when available
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I would agree I feel that a red dot should be allowed on revolver in carry optics at least. Even with the red dot still at disadvantage against 17 round mags but for us die hards that still shoot revolver at least a red dot without being in open class.
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16 hours ago, ysrracer said:
Did it have any effect on muzzle flip? Because the factory one is useless.
Not really
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I had doug Jones in Rochester mi make one for my older 8 shot 38 super revolver which was essentially the 929 without the titanium cylinder. Gave him the cover and and gun he made me a 3 port one. I just drove there as he is within two hours of me but I'm sure any competent gunsmith or machinist could make on.
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Without worrying about power factor I use 3.8- to 4.0 of tg. Since as said above I use sport pistol for most of my coated bullets. But in today's shortage if tg is what you got it'll work.
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Can't say anything about the 147 grain but in general I find that in most of my guns conical, hollow point or flat point to generally be more accurate in most of my 9mm. Although I did just shoot some 147 grain extreme round nose out of my stock 2 and xdm 5.25 and both were under an inch and a half at 25 yards off sand bags. But haven't compared to 147 flat nose yet.
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I load for my dad who has the same gun I use zero 115 conical loaded to oal of 1.080 and 4.4 grains of titegroup. He has I believe a 9 or 10 lb recoil spring for reliability. Got rid of the spring that came with it.
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On 3/4/2021 at 7:35 PM, PatJones said:
I have 2 sets of dies so I don't have to change die height between 38 & 357.
Glad I'm not the only one
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I'm far from an expert on this subject. But I have the same mount with a vortex red dot and didn't have this trouble. I know in general a slower bullet is. One with less velocity shoots higher. So you probably could go with a heavier bullet moving slower but not sure you'd get 3 inches. Something you'd have to play with. The other option would be to shim the red dot. I'm sure someone else will come along with a more definitive answer. Good luck.
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Ordered on 10/1/20 received today 10/6/20 through ups.
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Damn gun and windshield. Could've been worse.
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I'm shooting same bullet out of 38 specials I cut down to 38 super length and am usin 3.0 grains of titegroup out of my 627. OAL is 1.270 about a 2 inch group at 25 yards 8 shots.
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Smith and wesson m&p competitor plates same as 1.0
in S&W (M&P, etc)
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Just bought a steel frame competitor. Came with plastic mounting plates. Pulled out the metal plates from the slide I bought for my m&p 1.0 slide kit I bought some years ago. Sure enough they're the same as the new 2.0 plates. Just thought I'd share.