BX762

Hennings trigger system is very good. You can by various return srings. It is also way better to work with than the factory spring. I have installed 2 of them so far.

I forgot to metion, that the Hennings parts are intended for Tanfoglio pistols. The parts are very high quality, and work great, but were made for differenct pistols. Just so that you know, I use a radiator intended for a Corvette, in my S-10 PU. I like to mix and match, if it is to my advantage. Also, I had to take some material off of the safety, in order to get it to work. I only took off enough material for the safety to engage in the half-cock position. I would rather do too little than too much. The trigger spring is very difficlut to reinstall, so be ready to use some patience for re-install. The original spring flew out and disappeared into the land-of-the-lost during removal. I used one from my Witness pistol for a replacement part. If you take out the trigger, be careful to cover the frame so that you can recover the spring.

I finished changes to my 97B. I know that I enjoy learning about parts interchange and other technical aspects, so I thought that others might get something out of my experience. I got rid of the firing pin block from the slide, so I cut off the bottom of the FP block lever. The FP block lever no longer a part of the trigger pull or trigger bar reset. CZ custom catalog shows a spacer to replace the lever, but it is not available, so the practical solution was implemented. Of course I polished the contact surfaces. If you remove the FP in order to get rid of the FP block, pay attention to the orientation of the FP, so that you can put it back. The slots on the FP still have to face up, so that the FP roll pin can go back in. I made my own full length recoil rod, Looks Good and adds some weight. The recoil spring guide is made from a 4” hinge pin sold by Stanley (if I remember correctly.) If you buy the package of pins alone, you get pins which are well short of 4”, too short to reach the end of the slide, even though that package is labeled, 4” hinge pin. I had to buy a package with assembled 4” hinges, those pins were long enough. Removing the pins from the hinges, required a cutoff wheel, and a careful hand. I have installed the straight trigger and the competition hammer from CZ Custom. The set screws for the trigger are too short, but I should be able to buy the longer screws at the hardware store, or on the internet. Even with too much take-up and too much over-travel, the new trigger is way better. Getting rid of the silver eye-sore from an otherwise sharp pistol is a bonus. I have installed Hennings hammer pin and sear pin. The hammer pin needed to be shortened a little on the large diameter end. No problem. I took off only a small amount and it worked great. If you want to try this item please read the information on Hennings’ website first. When I reamed the hole for the new pin, I started with a ream one size too small, and worked up. You can buy reams from Grainger. Ream sizes are smaller when the size number gets bigger. No. 27 is smaller than No. 26. The sear pin was a direct fit. I did not need to ream the hole, it just went right in. The fit of Hennings sear pin was lots better than the factory pin. At first, I did not realize that the sear did not need to be reamed, so I took it apart. If you are keeping the FP block lever, you probably could just push out the factory pin with the new pin. 1000 grit paper on the pins produced an outstanding smoothness to the finish. I used a reduced power hammer spring made by Wolff. The Wolff Spring made the trigger pull better. The Wolff web page seems to indicate that these springs are not applicable to the .45 cal pistols, so I will leave that issue to you. It seems to me that the new spring works very well, so I am going to stick with it. If anyone knows what the issue is, I would be glad to read your reply.

I was aware of the issue of retaining the pin. I am still working on that part. One problem at a time. Just out of curiousity, from looking at the hennings site, how would you know which models could use this hammer and pin? I am actually glad that I did not know that when I bought the items or I would not have tried to use the hammer and pin. Sometimes these efforts end up being a bust, but I think that this one will turn out well. So far, the only issue is retaining the pin, which is not an unresolvable problem. I have purchased the slide and barrel for the 'long slide'. I believe that I have all of the items that I need except for the slide, and that is on it's way from EAA. Burke

I bought Hennings parts to include the hammer, sear, trigger system, guide rod, firing pin and pins. I have a a Witness 9mm small frame. I had some trouble, so I contacted Mr. Henning Wallgren, who gave me some helpful input. The problem came from the fact that the hammer and pin set is intended for the high end models. Despite this, I have been able to use these parts on the witness by using progressively larger reamers on the hammer pin hole. I started with a tapered reamer and then moved to the no. 27 and finally to the no. 26 reamer. Only the carbide reamers (at $28 ea.) were at all effective. Except for the initial use of the tapered reamer, the high speed and cobalt steel versions were completely ineffective. The reamers were supplied by McMaster-Carr. After the hammer pin hole in the frame was enlarged (to .147,) I could use the Hennings hammer pin, with one modification. One end of the hammer pin has a step, which is larger than the .147 in. body. I used the poor-mans lathe (a hand drill), to turn down the pin until the full length is .147 in. dia. I submit this entry in case anyone would wish to use these excellent parts for the Witness or Witness Elite Match. It is not a drop-in install, but is worth the effort. Burke

I have an a full size Witness 9mm with the older style long hammer spring. It is small frame. The overall barrel length from the chamber opening to the muzzle is 4.5 in. The over-all slide length, measured at the rail, is 7.125 in. The underlug is 1.75 in. Is there a slide which is longer than my current slide. The EEA web site lists slides for the witness as full size and long slide. Judging by the pictured size of the underlug, my slide looks like the picture of the long slide, but there is no way that my barrel could be listed as 4.75 in. Do the slides interchange between the small and large frames? Are barrel lengths normally measured to include the chamber? Just curious. Informed opinions on the following would be greatly appreciated: The EEA website lists long slide barrels at $110. Could I buy a new barrel listed for LS and put it in my pistol, to have .25 in. protrude from the slide? Might look a little like a Llama Extra. If I bought a long-slide slide would it go right on, and would it be longer? Are there slides from other versions which will still look correct and would work? Could I purchase a barrel in .38 Sup and use it in my pistol? (some other parts also?) A slide which takes a barrel which is less than 5 in. is considered a ‘long slide’? I guess it is, being that the other one is a little shorter. Thanks.