Alvarez Kelly
-
Posts
235 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Alvarez Kelly
-
-
I would look hard at the primer magazine tube plastic tip also.
Take off the primer magazine assembly and carefully inspect all the parts. It is very likely you will find primer residue. Clean, inspect, replace the plastic tip if is it at all questionable, and try again.
Lining the primer slide/punch assembly with the shellplate platform takes a little trial and error, but take your time and you can get it. You want the primer cup to go up into the shellplate platform without rubbing the platform itself. It can be done. Anything less wil cause you problems.
Good luck. Let us know how you came out!
-
Since you can use the dies you already own, the advantage goes to the 550 over the SDB. I load on both, so I am not bias at all.
Either would serve you well, but the 550 is a little more verstatile...
As always, everyone is going to have their own opinion. Yours is the only one that matters. Have YOU actually loaded on either? Some find the SDB harder to work with, especially if you have big hands.
-
I would not use an adjustable wrench. They do not fit well, and that is a TIGHT bolt. I would buy the correct 6 point socket and a long breaker bar. You might consider Craftsman tools from Sears. Great guarantee, kinda like Dillon! :-)
-
EDITED... With all this talk though about the 550 casefeeder not being useful for the 650 I may just buy a casefeeder for the 550 now for pistol and when I have more money just buy a used 550B for rifle.
THAT'S the winning plan. I was going to suggest as much.
-
Glad to hear it! Welcome to team BLUE! :-)
-
Same "new" system that has been out for many, many years... :-)
-
Does anyone know if the Sdb dies can be used with this 450 Jr.
The 450 Jr in your photos uses 2 of the 3 "Square Deal" dies. The sizing/decap die is a standard 7/8 x 14 industry standard die.
I called dillon today, maybe I'm mistaken but I thought it used 3 sdb dies, the 4th being stn. #1 7/8-14 standard resizing and depriming die? stn #2 powder drop, #3 bullet press, and #4 crimp, all calibur specific? am I missing something? I think the powder drop needs an adapter to the powder funel. I'm slowly putting all the pieces togeather....pls. correct me if I'm mistaken.
Thanks
Your not "wrong" but the powder "die" is not a die in the usual sense. You use the powder funnel that comes with the Square Deal conversion kit inside the powder die you already have on the press. I hope I didn't confuse things more! :-)
-
Has he ever owned a SDB?
Yes. He prefers the 450. Manual priming, manual advance, manual powder. That's what he LIKES about it.
As I said, to each his own.
-
Does anyone know if the Sdb dies can be used with this 450 Jr.
The 450 Jr in your photos uses 2 of the 3 "Square Deal" dies. The sizing/decap die is a standard 7/8 x 14 industry standard die.
-
A friend of mine has 3 450s. He LOVES them. He PREFERS them. I prefer the 550s. I also load on a SDB.
I say, to each his own...
-
Just ran a hundred rounds with the upgrade, the powder measure bounces around a lot more then using the springs.
Try tightening the blue nut more. Should be "some" play (as in NOT coil binding) when pushing the handle ALL the way forward.
Really?
I've been adjusting mine for a slight crush fit at full extention.
As in "crushing" the spring? If so, that's way too tight. It may not affect you loads, but it's putting undo stress on a few parts. I'd try loosening it up until you can compress the spring a bit more with your fingers, when the handle is pushed all the way forward.
-
Just ran a hundred rounds with the upgrade, the powder measure bounces around a lot more then using the springs.
Try tightening the blue nut more. Should be "some" play (as in NOT coil binding) when pushing the handle ALL the way forward.
-
If it doesn't auto index anymore, it sounds like it's missing parts. $100 is a great price though.
As for which one to buy, Square Deal or 650, have YOU used either? I like Square Deals (and 550s) but not everyone who loads on a Square Deal likes them...
-
I have the newest failsafe mechanisms on all my Dillon measures. They are a great safety device that works. Almost everytime I hear someone has a problem, it can be traced back to the blue wing nut being adjusted too loose. Follow instructions and it will work great. Unless you hesitate in the middle, or double stroke the handle, it is much harder to over or undercharge you cases with powder.
I wouldn't consider stepping backwards. They work as advertised, when properly adjusted.
"With respect, is there some data or proof you can offer that backs up your claim that," They are a great safety device that works", and "it is much harder to over or undercharge you cases with powder."? I agree that they work easier if adjusted correctly but haven't seen the proof for these types of safety claims. Just sayin.
As I'm sure you are well aware, the "proof" is anecdotal. The cases of overcharging I hear and read about are caused by human error OR failure of the powder bar to return with the springs. The newest failsafe mechanism pulls the powder bar back. If the operator does their part, one source of failure is eliminated.
It's ok with me if you don’t want to use it, or even worse, want to disable a safety device that actually works. I don't shoot in the CT area.
-
I have the newest failsafe mechanisms on all my Dillon measures. They are a great safety device that works. Almost everytime I hear someone has a problem, it can be traced back to the blue wing nut being adjusted too loose. Follow instructions and it will work great. Unless you hesitate in the middle, or double stroke the handle, it is much harder to over or undercharge you cases with powder.
I wouldn't consider stepping backwards. They work as advertised, when properly adjusted.
-
Duplicate entry...
-
My powder adjustment bolt is 7/16s. Home Depot in Little Rock didn't have any of the plastic bolt covers. A local hardware store did but not in 7/16s m
You don't want 7/16s. You want 5/16s. It doesn't matter what size bolt you have. These knobs are made to fit over a knurled headed cap screw that uses an Allen wrench.
Don't let it freak you out. You want 5/16's Rosette knobs.
I have some if you can't find them locally. PM me.
-
It's possible that sliver of brass, piece of tumbling media or scrap from an old primer anvil was on the priming ram when you seated the new primer. I've had this happen to me. It is really bad with crimped primers on .223 brass. One primer will go into the swaged pocket a little tight and peel off a sliver of the old crimp. That sliver lays on the ram and dents the primers until you I remove it.
Agree! It looks like a piece of junk is sitting on the priming anvil. It happens. I would remove the whole priming mechaism and give the whole thing a good cleaning and inspection. It may be a good time to replace the plastic primer dispensing tip if you have loaded more than a few thousand rounds.
Let us know what you find. :-)
-
Glad you got it figured out. :-)
-
Do you get any shellplates or caliber conversion kits with the press? You'll need the right ones for each caliber you intend to load.
-
You know they are the same as the 550 springs right?
-
Well? Did you buy it? :-)
-
Can you post some photos? Are you SURE you don't have some crimped primer cases? There are some 40 cases out there that are crimped...
-
If it is complete, with both large and small manual primer systems and manual powder measure (with large and small powder bars), it'll easily be worth $250.00. Any less than that I would jump on it. If extras are included, it would be worth more, obviously... Or if it was not quite complete, the value goes down. Some parts are getting hard to find for the older models. There were at least 4 different versions of the primer system. It makes finding replacement parts a bit more challenging.
Let us know how it turns out.
RL550B primer slide/cup problem
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Congrats! Nice to be reloading smoothly again, isn't it.