glassblower
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Posts posted by glassblower
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That's a great idea and something that I can do! Thx!
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The Brownells 1911 Auto Slide/Frame Rail file is out of stock and I need to fit a slide to a new STI 2011 long/wide frame before the exemption rule expires here in CA on Dec. 31st. What other tools/files will help fit the slide onto the new frame? I am in San Diego if anyone has a tool and is willing to let me borrow for a day. Otherwise I will purchase what is recommended here.
Note, the CA single shot exemption allows handguns not on the CA approved list to be imported in single shot mode, hence the need for a complete build.
Thanks,
Al
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I tried 115, 124, and 147 in my 2011"s and ended up using the 124. It just felt snappier and better to me. I agree with Johnson that it is pretty much a personal preference.
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Dillon 650 is well worth it. The powder spill can be minimized by removing 1/2 coil from the ball detent spring, or as the brass moves into position at the bullet station you can gently put your finger on the case as you are positioning the bullet.
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I use 180 RNFP Xtremes in my 5" STI Edge (40) with no problem. The load is 5.0 gr of VV 320, OAL of 1.185. Make sure to give plenty of bell on the brass mouth and check the crimp to make sure the plating/bullet is not deformed.
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As to installing the insert I found installing the bow first and then pressing the insert in and did not need to file the bow or insert.
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I've installed the tri-glide into 3 of my 2011s. For testing the fit I took a black magic marker and coated the outside of the bow, installed the tri-glide slid it around a few times and carefully took it out. Where it was shiny I either removed plastic from the grip or carefully tweaked the bow but always making sure the part of the bow touching the disconnector remained parallel to each other. If I was installing into my 1911 I wouldn't remove any metal from the grip. $50 bow vs $expensive gun, I'll choose messing up the bow.
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Something I learned recently is that there is a set screw under the top part of the sight that helps secure the sight to the slide. You have to remove the elevation screw to get to it. If it is too loose or tight it may affect your ability to correctly adjust windage.
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I have purchased several of his guns direct from him and he is a smart businessperson and talented gunsmith. I'm sure he has some sort of strategy in mind for continuing his presence and supporting our sport. I also spoke with him this week about my open gun he is sending me in a couple of weeks and all the work he has booked. Everything seems fine to me.
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I fit the SV stainless grip to my Edge by covering the inside of the grip with a black magic marker, doing a careful and gentle trial fit, then filing the grip where it was shiny. A little at a time. Recover with marker and repeat. All of my STI mags fit without issue and I have both Taran and Dawson base pads. Be aware that the SV steel grip is heavy.
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I shoot both an STI Edge in 9mm and 40 and chose to have both of them NOT lock back. You might want to choose one way or the other and then tune all of your mags for that behavior. Having a mix of behaviors in your mags is frustrating. Pay attention to how the mag follower engages the slide release as that affects slide lock. Brazos http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/magart.htm and http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0505.htm has some good info for mag tuning. You can also invest in the mag tuning video and tools from Dawson Precision. Before trimming your follower to not lock back, make sure to tune your mags first.
One other item to consider is your OAL as it can have an impact on mag behavior. I use 1.2 for 40 and 1.165 for 9mm If you are using 9mm you should check into whether a mag spacer would help produce consistent behavior. One other trick I learned from Bobby Keagans for 9mm mags, is to load them up full with new springs and let them sit for a week. That will help position the follower properly for the last couple of rounds.
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Bobby recently built my 9mm 5" Bull barrel with lightened slide, aftec extractor, etc (it's the Copper Kote 9mm on his Facebook page) and it has been flawless with about 500 rounds so far. His trigger jobs are outstanding. I also have a 6" 40 with lightened slide and fluted barrel that he built and it performs equally well. I think his work is so good that he is finishing up a 5" 40 similar to my 9mm for me as well.
My 9mm from him shoots very flat and cycles fast with any load from 125 - 130 PF (Haven't gone above 130 yet).
Great guy to work with too!
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Thx - I'll give the Lee Die's a spin.
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Which 40 cal Bullet seating die are people using with 180 Xtreme RNFP?
I use a Redding Competition seating die for seating mostly 40 cal MG 180 JHp's with very little variation in OAL. When I load Xtreme 180 RNFP the OAL variation exceeded my comfort levels (0.03 to either side). There is not enough variation in the Xtreme bullets themselves to account for the variation.
I noticed the Redding die does not fit the Xtreme bullet profile as well as it does the MG, so my thought is that there are other dies more suitable for the Xtremes.
FWIW, I use a Redding seating die to seat 9mm Xtreme 124 RN with very little OAL variation.
Thanks,
Al
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I have a stock Edge and another with a lightened slide. There is a distinct difference in the feel of each using the same reloads but using faster or slower powders and light or heavier projectiles can make any gun feel faster or slower with felt recoil being different as well. If I shoot the stock for a few rounds and then the lightened one, it feels much faster but I'm a mere mortal and the clock doesn't show much diff. However, the total mass of the gun is less and moving it can accelerate and deccelerate more quickly and results in more time on target which may lead to more accuracy. However, much like a batter in baseball will swing his bat with a weight on it before stepping up to the plate, practicing with the stock (heavier) gun and then using the lightened one might change your mental perception about how fast you are.
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Being a CA resident myself I've found calguns forum to provide reasonably sound legal discussions regarding the acquisition and ownership of non-DOJ approved pistols and high cap magazines and associated parts in CA. The new CA laws that took effect in 2014 create lots of murkiness about high cap mags and a read of some of the discussions should provide some insight.
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All great suggestions, thanks. The powder I am using is Vihtavuori N340. After I noticed variations in the weight from day to day, I would cycle a number of charges before measuring and then adding 4-10 charges to the measuring cup and averaging the charge. I've also calibrated the scale several times. As a newbie reloader, I need to find the confidence that either the scale or powder measure is consistent. Right now. I'm not sure about either. I've thought about getting another scale and comparing, the one I have cost $75 and I'm thinking that I should get a less expensive one just to see how it compares.
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New Dillon XL-650, scale, etc
Day 1 - Set powder load to 5.2, measured a number of powder loads with a variation of +/- 0.1, called it a day
Day 2 - Re-checked powder load before starting and discovered it was now at 6.0. Checked tightness of everything, re-read manual, rechecked everything. Set powder load to 5.2, measured a number of powder loads with a variation of +/- 0.1, called it a day
Day 3 - Re-checked powder load before starting and discovered it was now at 6.0, again. Fiddled with it, ensured the white square fully moved from one end to the other,
put 4 loads into measure cup and averaged, still 6.0,
read BE forums,
removed shell plate, cleaned and adjusted as mentioned in forums.
Removed powder system, emptied, removed small powder bar, no foreign matter (not even a bullet),
Cycled powder mechanism and watched the powder bar move a full cycle, it moved smoothly and fully. Powder adjustment screw was firm.
Re-installed powder system (did not adjust), loaded with powder, filled a number of cases, load now measured as 5.7
loaded 10 cases, adding each to the measure cup, noting the measured value as each was added. Average was 5.75 as was the total divided by 10.
Created 2 10 load measures and put them aside. Read BE forums. Called it a day.
Day 4 - Measured the 2 10 load measures from the day before, both had gained 0.8 grains. NUTZ!
From reading the various posts, it seems that a scale having an actual problem is rare and the error is usually caused by the operator. I've calibrated the scale a number of times, put new batteries in it, made sure it is on a stable surface, turned off the fluorescent lights, held my breath when measuring (although I did fart during one measure)
Even before making this post, I went back, re-did the cumulative 10 load measure, it read 58.3, closer, but still off from the individual measures.
Any suggestions as to what to try next?
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Thank you for your answers! This really helps me understand more about all the factors that must be considered when reloading.
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Thank you for your answers! They are a great help in understanding all the aspects of reloading.
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When would you use a pistol JHP or FMJ round or flat tip other than for hunting, self defense, or your pistol physically needs the flat or round tip? Is there a reason to use one over the other when shooting paper targets or in competition?
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Is there a difference in powder loads when using bullets from different bullet manufacturers if it has the same weight and jacket? I'm also assuming that there would not be a difference in overall bullet length as that would make a diff in the pressure, hence changing the load. I've also read that some manufacturers maintain tighter tolerance in their bullet weights, if so, is there a list on who has the tighter tolerances and does the slight weight variation really make a diff in pistols?
Brazos Trigger kit
in 1911-style Pistols
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I have the Brazos Pro kit in 2 of my 2011's and will be adding the kit to the others. Both triggers feel the same after minor spring adjustments.