glassblower
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Posts posted by glassblower
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Before I set up my reloads for my new 929 I just want to fully understand that I can take one of my 158 gn projectiles for my .357 revolver which is sized to .358, or .357 stuff it into a 9mm case with 2.8 gn of VV 320 and safely send it. Part of my concern is that .355 will easily slide through the cylinder while a .358/.357 does not slide easily. I do understand that sometimes a slightly larger diameter projectile will increase accuracy. One of my 40's likes .401 while others prefer .400.
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Never thought a hollow firing pin would be advantageous. Thanks.
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As I was examining my new and as yet to be live fired S&W 929 I noticed that the "firing pin" or "nose bushing" is missing. Or it at least looks very different than my 686. It has been dry fired maybe 100 times with snap caps but has not been live fired. Can someone tell please tell me if this is how it is supposed to look and am I using the correct name for the apparently missing piece?
Thanks, Al
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One other consideration is that some metal grips have a slightly different profile on the trigger guard that requires a different insert on your Double Alpha or similar race holster. If you plan on using a back up gun, it would need to have the same grip or you swap out the insert. I went down the SVI metal grip path for one of my Edges and really liked the feel, but, didn't feel the improved grip or cost was worth changing my 2011's grips to all metal.
An additional advantage with the plastic grips is that with a little care and patience, you can stipple your plastic grip to your personal prefs. Can't do that with a metal grip.
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Some factors to consider........
Is your OAL at the point where the bullet is contacting the rifling at the longest measured value? If the bullet is contacting the rifling, then you could be causing high pressure and you either need to shorten the OAL or lessen the variation. The point being is that some variation in OAL can be ok depending on your intended use.
Check and clean your bullet seating die occasionally as the bullet coating can stick to the seating die and cause variation in subsequent rounds.
Verify that there is consistency in the bullet shape. I received some projectiles from a reputable manufacture that had several different lot numbers and there was enough variation in the profile to drive me crazy with OAL variation. Turned out they did have an issue in the manufacturing process and did replace the bad lots.
Sort some head stamps and set up your OAL using only the single heads stamps. Then you will know the variation and can work to reduce it with the single head stamp. When you've done that, you know whether mixed head stamps will fit your needs or temperament.
Make sure that the shell plate doesn't wobble, if it does it can induce OAL variation. There are a number of fixes to help reduce the shell plate wobble in the forums.
When I added a Mr Bullet Feeder to my 1050, I started getting smaller variations in my OAL and I "think" it was caused by the bullet feeder consistently placing the projectile in the same vertical position for every case. If doing it by hand you could introduce enough tilt in the projectile that the seating die may not be able to straighten. That means the die is pushing on a different point on the profile.
Oh, and I've done all those things and still sometimes get substantial variation depending on the weather, prayer, holding my mouth right, chewing gum, excess gas, or other random factors.
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Hmm, wasn't aware of any issues with Wikipedia, although the idea of one annual fund drive with a specific goal would still be valid.
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Oh, and my followers and springs are from Grams.
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I'm loading out to 1.2 in 140's (in my 40) and don't have any mag issues. I followed the instructions from Brazos. The length of the mag shouldn't make a difference in how you tune or set up the follower to lock or not lock.I do the same in my mags set up for 9mm.
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Donation made via PayPal. I'm also a member on the CalGuns forum http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/index.php and they have a donation system where you can set up a monthly auto donation via paypal and other mechanisms. Donors get a little tag in their profile if they donate. They have two different funds, one for running the forums and another for CA's gun rights fight. They seem to keep things running smoothly and rarely have to ask for $. I would gladly make a monthly donation to keep this site going and without ads. A different example is how Wikipedia has an annual fund drive on their home page that states what their donation needs are to keep it free.
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Love talking to Bevin, concur he's a huge source of great info on mag tuning. But before you call him I suggest checking out Dave Dawsons page here. http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0505.htm You should also consider tuning your mags.
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Interesting note about using different caliber cases. Never thought about it as that technique is not typically used in semi's. Thanks for all the info, think I'll go make up some 357 rounds and then go use em up and then make more. Rinse and repeat.
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Thanks 57K, good thing I bought that Redding profile crimp die! I have the Redding seating/crimp die and I hated trying to set it up to seat and crimp in the same operation Seemed weird to me after using separate bullet seat and crimp dies for all my ahem, "bottom feeders"
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Just received my first two real revolvers, a S&W 929 (9mm) and 686 (357). Is there any advantage to loading longer than 1.59 in a 357 revolver and using a profile crimp? Most of my semi autos like OALs that are closer to the rifling.
I’ve done some searching for a 357 OAL and it seems that 1.59 is the common length AND a roll crimp into the cannelure. I’m starting with 158 SWC and they have enough meat for me to go longer, however I would have to profile crimp and not use the cannelure. I’m not planning on loading to magnum levels and I understand that you need a crimp strong enough to prevent bullet movement caused by recoil.In a revolver, do you need to have as much crimp as possible to allow as much of the powder to burn before the bullet makes the jump from the cylinder to the barrel? In semi-autos, you have a longer barrel that give the powder more time to complete the burn.Thanks,Al -
Assuming the case is properly sized, try this. Crimp to where you think it is correct, then extract the bullet with a bullet puller. If there is an indentation in the bullet, carefully back off the crimp till the indentation is gone. Or, add crimp until you see a slight indentation in the bullet. Carefully back off the crimp till the indentation is gone.
You can also go the route of measuring your bullet diameter, case thickness, and adding it all up to derive what your overall diameter should be.
With mixed brass you'll have to find a happy medium for the brass in the mix. Not all brass is the same thickness and will result in different indentations.
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I lube my brass for my 1050 and it makes a world of difference even with the carbide dies. I'm also pretty diligent on keeping the press properly lubed as it always seems easier to operate after a proper grease job
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All my STI FLGR's have a slight bevel on the head end that an Edge likes. Make sure it fits flush where the head end meets the frame. Also, when fitting the new spring you may have to trim a little off the spring. When the new guide and spring is installed, cycle the slide and if you feel any grating you will likely need to trim a little off the spring. Lastly, there is a difference in which end of the spring goes onto the guide rod head, the head end of the spring will appear to be slightly flattened or wound slightly tighter. Don't trim the head end of the spring.
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I like the idea of putting smaller into larger containers of like ammo and taking out the smaller when going to the range and gauged ammo into MTM boxes. That will help prevent stuff from getting mixed into different areas of storage. The problem I was having was tupperware containers getting shifted around or hidden behind other recipes. Although it does seem that storing ammo takes a lot of very strong shelf space regardless of how it is contained.
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I would like to hear or see how folks are organizing their reloaded ammo. I reload several calibers and use various recipes due to different types of guns. I typically use sandwich size Tupperware or 100 round ammo boxes all with recipe labels on the outside. Some recipes have a 1000 or more rounds competition and practice ammo) Even though I dedicate shelves to a specific caliber I still end up searching aroundfor or lose track of what stock I have. I would really like to find a way to keep it more organized.
Thx
Al
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4.8 VV 320 under a bayou 180 with an OAL of 1.185 makes major in my mostly stock Edge. Most STI Edges like 1.185 - 1.2 for good accuracy and power factor. I use the Redding Competition dies and case gauge all my match ammo. Very little does not pass the gauge with the Redding dies.
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I've used Dawson Precision mag tuning kit for both 9 & 40 and all my mags fit nicely. Are you using a 9mm spacer in your mags? If so, be sure and check the length of the spacer as it could create a fit problem.
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I've been using Ultima Replenisher as it has the electrolytes without the sugar and has nothing artificial. It's a powder and it mixes easily with water. I usually take a couple of bottles of water and mix the powder into the bottle. Oh, and it tastes pretty good for a natural product
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Shooters Connection, sturdy, and easy to organize your gear in.
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Go local, but its pretty simple so with a little searching here you can find instructions for doing it yourself.
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Could the location of the elevation screw hole in the slide cause the elevation screw to shear off?
The elevation screw on my bomar rear sight sheared off of my 2011. I was able to completely remove all parts of the screw. I've tried installing 2 new bomars, one STI and a Dawson and was unable to get the elevation screw head to properly seat under the detent. I've tried pushing the detent back with a dental pick with no success. I've removed and reinstalled rear Bomars before and never had an issue. I removed a bomar from one of my other 2011's and noticed that there was a difference in where the elevation screw hole was made in the slide. (See photo). Could that amount of difference cause the screw to shear and make it difficult to get the elevation screw to properly seat? If so, what are my options?
Jonesing for a 929
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Thanks AzShooter, I'll be making a batch in the morning! And shooting them in the afternoon.