glassblower
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Posts posted by glassblower
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If the intent is to set up some dry fire mags, check out a product called "Rack Buddy", much less expensive. Make some dummy rounds, load any number into your mag, and put the Rack Buddy on top. They work great in my 2011's. Plus you can use old base pads so they get beat up when you drop them, not your match pads.
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Infinity builds custom guns, if you like or want the polished stainless accents on the magwell, safety. etc then ask them to do so. Casey and crew won't guide you to build an ugly gun. They are building a very custom gun for me now in CrN with some special accents on it.
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I have loaded Blue Bullets in 9mm and 40 and have not had issues. I would check the bullet diameter which should be .355. Typically, 9mm ammo has a slight coke bottle shape, so if that it what your concern is, you should be ok. A plunk test would also be advised.
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Like Grumpy says, you might want to undersize your brass with a Lee or other undersize die. That also helped improve my pass ratio using .401 coated.
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For an experiment, add some extra crimp to some and see if they gauge. I'd bet they will. 1.185 OAL should be fine in most gauges.
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1 hour ago, JMPhotog said:
I’m loading Bayou 180 gr coated lead I believe they are .401
I load the same bullet and they are .401. And....... some will not gauge smoothly. If you want them all to fit nicely you will have to deform the bullet. But, doing that can compromise accuracy. I "crimp" till I just barely can see deformation and check a number of rounds to ensure that it averages out over different brass. Once I've done that I usually get 3-5 rounds out of 100 that don't quite fit the gauge. They go in the practice pile. BTW, I use the shock bottle gauge, both the L and the XL. I use the XL for the Bayous. L for everything else.
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Whether it's the Hondo, Shockbottle, or EGW, they have tighter tolerances in both length and diameter than your barrel. Take a read of this FAQ on the Shockbottle site. https://www.shockbottle.com/faqs-1
Also, are you loading .400 or .401? Coated or Jacketed? If you're loading .401 coated and NOT deforming the bullet, then some ammo may not gauge well depending on the brass manufacturer. In my 2011 in 40, .401's with "almost" no deformation of the bullet plunk just fine, but some will stick part way down the case gauge. I use those for practice. Often repeated words of reloading 40 is "it depends" .
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Try this, 1 inch solid black circle at 15 yards, slow fire while working on grip, trigger control, index, etc. Shoot it till the black,is gone. Then dot torture at 7 yard for speed.
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Hmmm, just found a very interesting and helpful article regarding the use of case gauges and troubleshooting the cause of ammo not passing.
https://www.shockbottle.com/faqs-1
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For this case of the Bayou .401, I decided to test and see if shortening the OAL to 1.185 improves the gauging percentage, it does not, as a matter of fact, it makes it worse. Not sure what to conclude from this other than I will be resetting back to 1.2.
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I load Bayou’s and Bayou coated 40’s are .401 which you need to keep in mind as you balance any projectile deformation, crimp, and gauging. I was having a similar problem with the Hondo Case Gauge and Dennis at Bayou recommended that I use a Lee U die. The Lee die improved the reject percentage and allowed me to remove more of the deformation. I load mixed brass with an OAL of 1.2 and some have suggested that a shorter OAL may lead to additional improvements.
i also plunk tested the rejects to see how much of the case could show in the gauge and still pass plunk. FWIW, I loaded some coated .400 with the same settings and almost all passed gauge with no deformation.
.......... edited like bulm540, an undersized die will help.
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If your OAL changes as the round moves through the “system” then it’s likely either your crimp or resizing needs to be adjusted. Reloaders spend an inordinate amount of time getting the OAL just right, on the press, why let the gun system make a random adjustment that might endanger your gun or you. I usually check the tightness of the crimp by pressing the bullet against the bench and seeing if the OAL changes.
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When you switched over the brass, did you adjust your crimp? If the crimp is too loose or tight it will affect accuracy. Too tight and it peels the coating or deforms the projectile. Too loose and the projectile can shift OAL, both of which will cause a change in accuracy. Starline is a higher quality brass than Blazer and their case walls are thicker than others. I’d also do a plunk test and ensure that a case length diff isn’t a cause.
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12 hours ago, zzt said:
You compete within your division.
As zzt says, you compete within class/division in a match, but for overall in a match, you're scored against everyone. Everyone in production class is minor regardless of caliber, mag cap in prod is 10 rounds.
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Ive shot the blues in 180 and other brands as well and for USPSA shooting or similar, 180 is the go to weight. My load for the blue 180s was/is 4.8 gr of VV320 at 1.2 OAL. Makes major easily. There might be a small diff in felt recoil with the 200s but can't imagine much change over the 180.
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If you are going to shoot USPSA limited in 40, I recommend loading for major, considering points gained using major. If you want minor, load 9 and gain mag capacity, but fewer points for anything other than an “A”. That is, 40 mags load 20/21, 9 mags load 23+. If you’re shooting limited 10, mag capacity will be the same regardless of caliber, major will score higher than minor. While 9/40 minor may have slightly less recoil than 40 major, I think very few folks experience a significant gain because of minor.
i shot limited in 9 minor due to an injury and got my butt handed to me by the folks shooting major.
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I have 3 custom FGW’s and they are very reliable and well made and I would go to him again for a custom gun. One is a Limited 2011 with about 15k downrange and just now feels broken in. The two times I had sight issues with them Mr. Keegan was kind of a grumpy Gus to deal with, otherwise nice to deal with.
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Mags that don’t go to slide lock and are 100% reliable requires “tuning”. Such as spacing the feed lips according to the caliber used in the mag. Polishing up the inside of the mags and cutting the follower are also part of it. There are a number of how tos in the forum. You can also get a tuning kit from Dawson Precision. Bending your mag springs isn’t typically part of mag tuning.
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Thanks, all the suggestions are spot on, if the crimp, bell, bullet size (.401) wasn't already working well for my 2011's and X5. All I did was shorten the OAL and lower the powder charge in my 1050 head I use for 40. 1.14 is about as long as I can go in the M&P mags with this profile. This OAL plunks ok, but I'll shorten it a bit. Maybe a .401 bullet size is a bit large for the M&P, I'll try some MG 180 JHP's with the same settings and see if that improves things. I was hoping someone had a recipe they knew worked well in an M&P 40.
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Howdy, I used an initial recipe of 4.6 gr of VV320, coated RNFP 180 and an OAL of 1.14 in my M&P 40 Pro and It had the horrible accuracy. Like an 8 inch spread at 15 yds. The only other ammo I’ve shot with this gun has been OTS stuff and it was ok. Any recommendations for more accurate recipe? I have VV320, VV340, WST, and TG along with MG 180 JHP and 165 JHP. I know a ladder load might be appropriate but I am “wishing”:someone might have a load for this that works well. Interestingly, a search for M&P In this forum came up empty.
I load for my STI limited, various 45’s, revolvers, etc and have very accurate loads for them. BTW, that above recipe is amazingly accurate in my Sig X5.
Thanks, Al
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What Steve said and adding this...... check that those that show the most variation have the same bullet profile (not just the bullet diameter but the shape of the nose) as those with the best OAL. I know Zero makes quality stuff but variations can creep in with some batches. I experienced profile variations with another manufacturer that caused substantial variations in OAL. It drove me bonkers. Also, when I added a Mr Bulletfeeder to my rig, OAL variations got even less, likely because it sets the bullet in the same place every time, i.e. straight up.
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Before squeezing your mag with a vise, use a black magic marker or similar to coat the outside of your mag. Slide the mag into the maxwell a few times and then look at the mag to see where the magic marker has been worn. Those work areas should indicate where the issue is. Do it with a full load in the mag. Also check the number of coils in your spring and make sure it is the correct number for your mag length.
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Oops, my post is kind of redundant to nikdanja
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While this won't tell you what is causing the bent FP, it might prevent it..........I use dummy rounds colored with machinest dye, with the primer removed, fully loaded mags that are only used for practice, and do not cycle a round into the chamber. This gives the feel of a fully loaded gun albeit minus the one round in the chamber. I've dry fired thousands of times with no issues.
Buying a used Svi Infinity
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Besides SVI/Infinity’s top notch quality and customer service there is the truly custom build that they do for you. Since you plan on keeping this purchase awhile having one built to your desires or preferences might provide more enjoyment. Check out their gun builder app and see if you can create something you really like. The wait and cost just might be worth it. It was for me.