[differences in loading .40S&W for Glock versus 1911 / 2011?]

I’ve noticed that when I use moly coated lead bullets that I get less leading when I load longer for a given PF. For the shorter rounds I’ll get lead deposits in the freebore on the top side of the barrel (on the opposite side of where the round is resting. During ignition, gas flows around the bullet and cuts into it until the bullet is in the barrel. I’m sure it doesn’t hurt that the pressure is a little lower with the longer OAL, bear creek’s literature said overly high pressures can cause leading.

B.O.B,

This kind of describes what I think is happening with my load as I am getting a lot of black powder marks on the outside of my brass when I pick it up. This would make me happy if it means I am running at the low pressure end of the spectrum. I seem to have just a little leading or maybe moly build up in the receiver side of my barrel. Thanks for the knowledge! Kent

[differences in loading .40S&W for Glock versus 1911 / 2011?]

Kent,

I don't recall that I have loaded any 200g bullets. I know I have not loaded any Billy (or any Moly) bullets.

I might give some insight on Overall Length (OAL), as I see it...

When adjusting OAL,

1st - Be sure that isn't so long that the bullet contacts the rifling of the barrel, when chambered. Which could cause excessive pressure. This is why you can't use "Long 40"...that might be loaded for a 1911 based gun...in a gun based on the smaller 9mm design (like a Glock).

Sometimes the profile of the bullet could play a role here. I doubt you would see that with your 1.135 OAL, but...as I mentioned...I am not familiar with the bullets you are using. Also, if you have a short chambered barrel then you need to double check that your bullet is not contacting the rifling. (some after market barrels come with short chambers, and require gun smith fitting to the gun and to correct the chamber length after fitting)

Of course, you can load the round too short, which can cause a spike in pressure too. Bullet "setback" is the danger here...where the case tension on the bullet is not great enough and the bullet's OAL decreases (by contact with the feed ramp, for example). You can test your rounds for this.

2nd - After the safety issues, I might adjust OAL to maximize the feed characteristics in the particular gun you are using. The round should feed from the magazines and into the chamber well.

3rd - The round must feed well through the magazine. And, how many rounds you have I the magazine can be a factor here. For my major 9 Glock, I was loading long (see below). The magazines would feed fine when I just loaded a few for testing. When I loaded a full big stick, the angle of the round in the mag would change enough to allow the rounds to hang up...and jam.

4th - Generally a longer OAL means less (peak) pressure in the case as the round is ignited. Lower pressure is often desired (especially for Major power factor 40), so many will load to a longer OAL to ease pressure concerns.

- A slight drift, heavier bullets tend to feel softer, but they can also raise pressure. Imagine an infinitely heavy bullet...one that won't budge when the round goes off...all the pressure of the round will then expend it's energy on the weakest link in the chain (brass web, primer pocket, etc.)

All that to say, that 1.135OAL should be fine in your Glock mags and standard Glock chamber. But, double check...since I don't know the shape of that bullet.

And, remember...we are all just guys on the internet. You are responsible for your gun and loads. Learn all you can about reloading. It is good knowledge to have.

Flex, I really appreciate the time it took to give me this detailed much needed lesson! Well said that I need to be responsible for my gun and loads and taken to heart! I remember picking up the brass from my last test and finding residual powder stains on the brass that could mean a lack of a sealing around the bullet as ignition happens? I could be way off on that I realize! I am hoping that this and the fact that it is only pushing it at 715fps means I am far under the pressure limits. Again thanks for taking the time!!

[differences in loading .40S&W for Glock versus 1911 / 2011?]

Is there anything else I should consider with regard to the .40 S&W round in a Glock versus a 1911 / 2011?

Many of us that shoot a .40 S&W 1911 choose to use 10mm magazines and load long. In my case I load my .40 rounds to be used in a 1911 to 1.185" which will only fit in 10mm mags. This helps the rounds feed properly.

Rounds with this long OAL will not fit in .40 S&W Glock magazines so, when I load for these, I have to reduce the OAL to 1.135"

Cy Soto,

How is your load working with the OAL 1.135?

I am new to reloading and I am trying to be cautious. I had thought I had done my research and maybe apparently I haven't done it well enough.

I have loaded and tested a bunch of 200gr billy bullets with 3.3gr of N320 at 1.135 OAL and a .420 crimp for my G23. It has given me an average of 715fps and a 143pf. It cycles well in my pistol and shoots softly. There doesn't seem to be any pressure signs in the brass I pick up and yet I seem to be reading now that I am loading it too short. I have been scouring the web and I can't seem to find much as to whether I am doing something dangerous or not. Any help appreciated! Kent

[Newb Questions.....bullets]

Here is two cents from a limited shooter.

200gr can be very soft and so can 180gr. 200gr bullets are hard to find and more $. I shoot 180 because i can find lots of them.

If i was to shoot production with 40 cal, I would work up loads with 165gr and 180gr. Every gun will be different so you may like the feel of 165 or the 180 at slower speeds. Your gun mite also have better accuracy with one or the other.

I used n320 and solo 1000 in 40 cal and both are soft.

The difference in 15gr between the 180 and 165 with minor loads is less important than finding lots of bullets to send down range and working up a load that your gun shoots accurately.

Try both

Anilson, thanks for taking the time to answer! I just ordered some 180's and I will add some 165's to test alongside them.

Thanks again! Kent

[40 caliber brass life]

I blew up a gun with 4.2 of Clays over a 200. The mistake I made as a new reloader was that I used the SAAMI max COAL of 1.135, not the 1.200 that the recipe required to keep pressures reasonable.

Soooo...make sure those "splits" aren't really pressure related case failures, and that your friend is loading long.

eta: just saw your last post (left my screen there for a bit). Cracks at the base aren't the case mouth splits we were originally thinking of. Those are most likely case failures.

Your friend's load is too hot. Check the OAL. Should be at least 1.200, and the charge should be lower by a couple tenths.

eta: also, note that only certain formats can take the long loaded 40 (1911/2011 pattern yes, Glocks no, for examples).

Hi Kevin! I am loading for my G23 at 1.135. Is this not a good idea? 3.3 N320 with a 200gr Moly is pushing it at 715 fps

and it seems to be cycling just fine. Kent

[Newb Questions.....bullets]

Subscribed........

I have the same question.....I have already reloaded my first 300 or so and shot them this weekend

180G FMJ with Unique and Longshot......I did not notice a huge difference even with

4 different powder amounts ...Of course Im new and have plenty to learn.

Now I need to reorder Bullets......Stick with 180s or try some 165s.....

Both of those powders are too slow to get a really soft feeling load. R,

G-Man, I have been shooting 200gr Billy Bullets with 3.3gr of N320 and the load is soft and accurate and pushing an average of 715fps out of my G23 for a pf of 143(I shoot production). I am just about ready to reorder and I was thinking of going down to 180gr Billy Bullets. In theory would it be snappier? I really like the softness of the 200gr. Kent

[backup gun or ammo?]

I have a backup to my G34. I have a back up to the backup, and multiple back ups to those as well.

I've never needed the backups, ever. Well, once, when I FORGOT TO BRING the primary, but, naturally, I forgot the backup too.

Buy components for ammo. Buy replacement spare parts for the Glock when you can afford to, but buy, make ammo and shoot first. Oh, and I roll my own. If you are conscientious, you shouldn't have an ammo related blow up, and, as pointed out above, Glocks are NOT prone to catastrophic failures with reasonable ammo.

Kevin, you are too funny! Come shoot with us on Feb 13 out at Solano...... Kent

[G23 Mag Bulge?]

Guys, thanks for the replies! The confusing part is that I have been competing with these mags for a year and they have always dropped free up until last month.... I will take them to the next GSSF match and have them checked out.

Again, thanks!!

Take a look at this thread and it will explain a lot. The early mag is the one with the rounded cutout...it's pre-1994 ban and there are folks in places like NY who will buy them from you in a heartbeat because they can't buy current standard capacity mags. Don't let somebody at a GSSF match talk you out of them.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showpost.php?p=3300334&postcount=29

Thank you G-Man! Have a great weekend! Kent

[buying some new sight]

also i forgot to mention this is my normal carry weapon.

Something like the Ameriglo sights that are both fiber optic and tritium might be the best of both worlds. For normal daytime use I prefer rear sights with nothing on them, but can deal with the inserts on the Trijicon sights on all my carry guns...it's just not a big deal. For a combination carry and match gun, I'd probably go with the combo Ameriglo front and a plain rear sight. I had Dave Lauck make custom night sights for my wife's carry revolver and he uses smaller rear inserts that are almost white at night with a normal green front insert. The combination is really nice at night and the smaller rear inserts are less noticeable during the daytime. The downside was price....ouch.

I absolutely would not carry a gun that didn't have night sight(s) if there was any way around it. I've had a guns with and without night inserts pointed at bad guys where there was enough light to clearly see the threat, but not enough to see normal night sights...more than once, so my choice is based on actual experience, not theory. I did a quick video to give folks a rough idea of the difference...hard to do well, but it's a start (some monitors make this easier/hard to see clearly...sorry):

Hey G-Man Bart, I compete with my G23 (USPSA) and it has some thick night sights (not sure what kind as I purchased them over 10years ago)that I want to replace with thinner competition sights, but this is my carry at home SD gun so I need the night sights. In a post after this one, you mention you like the Heine front sight because it is thinner. Are these the tritium sights listed here? http://www.heinie.com/product_info.php?products_id=47 I don't see a measurement but I am hoping they are thinner than the Warren Tactical Tritium 215h X .125w. Thank you for your thoughts and video on the night sights! Kent

[G23 Mag Bulge?]

Guys, thanks for the replies! The confusing part is that I have been competing with these mags for a year and they have always dropped free up until last month.... I will take them to the next GSSF match and have them checked out.

Again, thanks!!

[G23 Mag Bulge?]

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75455&st=50

Thanks for taking the time to answer JayTray! My G23 is Gen 3 and about 11 years old. One of the mags (not sure which one)is original. A friend of mine who knows, said that Glock has improved/evolved their mags over the years. I thought the were both factory, but maybe not. Cheers, Kent

[G23 Mag Bulge?]

Photo provided.

[G23 Mag Bulge?]

Calipered G23 Mags

I have 3 FACTORY magazines that are hanging up in the mag well and at least one of them doesn't seem to be feeding well. I started noticing this the last match as I had one that I had to strip on a stage and a failure to feed on another stage. One mag is at least 11 years old and I am not sure of the other. They can barely be inserted in the mag well. I took a caliper to them fully loaded with identical factory ammo and below is what I found.

I can’t make any sense out of this. Not sure why the last two mags would bulge when loaded. I loaded and measured with the same factory ammo

Mag #1 10 rounds

bottom .91

Middle .933 Mag drops free but hangs up a little.

Top .915

Mag #2 10 rounds

Bottom .91

Middle .927 Mag drops free

Top .915

Mag #3 10 rounds

Bottom ..91

Middle .925 Mag drops free

Top .915

Mag #4 13 rounds

Bottom .91

Middle .91 Mag drops free

Top .915

Mag #5 13 rounds

Bottom .905

Middle .940 Hangs up when fully loaded but drops free when empty. .92 when empty

Top .924

Mag #6 13 rounds

Bottom .91

Middle .985 Hangs up when fully loaded but drops free when empty. .905 when empty

Top .97

Any thoughts..... ?

[Your Pistol's Reliability]

Sounds like you are way ahead of the game... I love my airsoft training time as I am sure you do!

Check out this website if you get a chance as these guys are serious about the airsoft training. They were very average USPSA shooters when they started this and now they are both A shooters with their eyes on Master. Watch them shoot the real guns in the videos also. Cheers and good luck! http://www.bamairsoft.com/

[HDC EVO Shot Timer App?]

No problem..I have not had any problems with phone. This is my first app that I put on phone that was not from store also. Looks real nice..have not got a chance to fully test at range yet. But responds when clapping, and has nice options

Thanks again! I do training with airsoft inbetween matches and if this one works as well as my surfire shot timer on my iPhone, I will be a happy camper....

[Airsoft Training?]

Did you ever find a good working airsoft pistol? I am a Glock shooter and from what I understand there aren't any for sale because Glock threatened them. Rumor has it Glock and at least one manufacturer are talking at least. I went with a KWA 1911 Double stack that works great and feels very real with weight and texture. I beat it up and use it a lot and it has held up great so far. They do tend to break once and a while as they were never designed for the abuse we put them through.

[Airsoft or pellet gun training on the cheap?]

Hey sorry I am so late on this! I have had very good luck with my KWA 1911 Double Stack that I purchased from the guys at BAMairsoft.com These guys are two A Class USPSA shooters who have leapfrogged a bunch of the competition by practicing with the best of the airsoft equipment available. They have even created a bunch of targets that are the right site ratio for what we shoot in our matches. Good luck! Kent

[Your Pistol's Reliability]

I was told by the guys at Bam Airsoft that these pistols will break and that I will need to learn how to work with them.

I have about 15K through my KWA 1911 Double stack and I had to send it back to KWA twice so far. Once they paid for and once I paid the $45 to have it fixed. I have also had to tweak and fix it myself a few times as I use it a lot. Good luck! The BAM guys are a good resource as they train on a weekly basis with their airsoft equipment. Kent

[Best quality 2011 style airsoft?]

What is the best quality 2011 style airsoft?

I practice weekly with my KWA Double Stack 1911 that I purchased from www.bamairsoft.com The Bam Airsoft guys are USPSA A Class shooters who practice extensively with what they sale. They also have target systems that are to scale with what we shoot for real on weekends.

The KWA customer service has been wonderful and these pistols take a lot of beating.

Just my .02 cents for what it is worth. Good luck! Kent

[HDC EVO Shot Timer App?]

Is it this one? http://code.google.com/p/openshottimer/downloads/list

You know, I'm not sure. I finally found this one http://www.sis.si/archives/743 made by the same company as this one

http://www.sis.si/shot-timer/#reviews. I hope so because it sure sounds good! Thanks for the help Vigilante! Kent

here is link to thread..its on last page, halfway down .. zip file ..directions are at bottom of page 7

shot timer thread

SDM74... Thanks for the guidance! I think I will run down and get my phone this week! Thanks again!

[HDC EVO Shot Timer App?]

Is it this one? http://code.google.com/p/openshottimer/downloads/list

You know, I'm not sure. I finally found this one http://www.sis.si/archives/743 made by the same company as this one

http://www.sis.si/shot-timer/#reviews. I hope so because it sure sounds good! Thanks for the help Vigilante! Kent

[HDC EVO Shot Timer App?]

Search for" open source shot timer" on here ..I installed it on my droid2

Okay..... Maybe I am not smart enough for guns or my SMART phone... I can find this app easily for iPhones but I can't find it anywhere for the Droid. I am looking on my PC and maybe I need to look on the EVO phone I don't have yet? Thanks again for the help!!

[HDC EVO Shot Timer App?]

Go to the Droid Market and search for "Shot Timer Pro". It's $9.99, and I don't see a par time feature.

Thank you OUshooter (as I write this in my OU sweatshirt...! Go Sooners! Kent

I found it for the iPhone but I have yet to find it at the droid market. This is the message that came up.

"Search: shot timer pro

Not Found

Sorry, you are looking for something that isn't here."

I will keep looking thanks!

[HDC EVO Shot Timer App?]

Go to the Droid Market and search for "Shot Timer Pro". It's $9.99, and I don't see a par time feature.

Thank you OUshooter (as I write this in my OU sweatshirt...! Go Sooners! Kent

[G21 recoil spring weights]

Thank you B.O.B.! I appreciate the point in the direction I want to go! Seems like there is a lot of conflicting advice out there on how to clean the leading or moly build-up out of the stock glock barrels as well as the other types. Any thoughts? Thanks for taking the time! Kent