[Do the MATH]

That's a great start.

One Very Tricky Course of Fire, I studied for 5 minutes

before I realized I counted one target twice (you could

shoot it or see it from two different positions), and

FAILED to see another target:(

My round count was correct, but I was still missing

one target...

But, you're on the right track.

Good luck.

Jack

Thanks Jack! This is such a great sport....

[Do the MATH]

another little trick is to walk behind the targets and props and look at them from another anlge. May help to find one thats hiding behind a barrel or something.

I really like this one Corey! Thanks!

[Do the MATH]

I found that if I am actively helping tape, reset activators, or help keep score, I do a better job of knowing where the targets are and how many there are.

...which is what EVERYone should be doing. There are always going to be a couple of prima donna's that feal they don't have to paste/paint/reset steel.

If you're not shooting or reloading you should be scoring, ro'ing, or pasting....period.

Preaching to the Choir guys..... Always try and do more than my share of taping/helping and such. This particular week was one of those where I was drawn early. The first three stages of the day I was 3rd, 4th and 1st out of 14 shooters, and I am a little slow in getting my game plan anyway...

[Do the MATH]

For the second time in a row down in Richmond Ca. I had a failure to engage.... Richmond puts on a great match with some very complex stages (for me as a beginner) and I seem to continue to not see every target.

I asked my friend Kevin C for a better way and he gave me what I am sure is obvious to most other shooters... Count the rounds required to complete the stage and make sure the targets you see add up to the right number. As a person who has HATED math all his life, I avoid most every situation that I have to use math (then why shoot production I ask myself?).

On the very next stage I started to apply this new found wisdom and low and behold, I couldn't find a target..

The required rounds were 23 and I could only find 21 rounds to shoot at the targets I had found so far, so I knew there was a target or targets out there that I had not seen as of yet. I finally found it and I am confident I would have had another FTE

had I not used the round count method.... So others may learn and thanks Kevin!

[Kyle's Flinch Breaker - 101]

It sounds like you are getting there (from successes in your last two posts).

I don't want to drift this into a shot calling thread (there are some good ones on the forum), but...

A key to being able to call the shot well is to get rid of any flinch. A flinch will often mean the eyes close and/or the shooter has lost a moment of observation.

Understood and thanks! I double plugged for the match, but I can't recall whether I was flinching or not. I will continue the drills you suggested at the beginning of this thread as part of my normal live fire regimen. Thanks Kyle!

[Kyle's Flinch Breaker - 101]

DR58,

Remember, calling the shot is different from recalling what the shots were. It is a moment of observation (as opposed to remembering what was observed).

Also, calling the shot is a separate activity from making the shot happen. One is observation, the other is the execution.

Thank you for the clarification Flex! Both are going to be a challenge I can tell... I did call an off shot yesterday which made me very happy! It was a C and I quickly followed it up with another C... Hey at least I called a shot..

[Kyle's Flinch Breaker - 101]

I went out to the range to work on my flinch and shot calling and had some interesting results.

I double plugged and relaxed my jaw and I did see the sights rise better. I worked all week long on my pre-shot routine of keeping my jaw relaxed and to breath through my mouth and hopefully I can apply this in Sunday's match.

Calling the shots is another story... I am a pretty confident shooter and I am confident in my ability to learn, and I have almost NO confidence I am going to be able to learn to call my shots... Let alone remember them... I call my wife/kids "Honey" because I CAN'T remember their names let alone a shot that happened at the beginning of a target LET ALONE A STAGE.....

I did the paint brush drill you were talking about and low and behold I was able to call every shot.... This did give me a little hope, but when I went back my normal drills, I wasn't able to call my shots. Although I did call two very poor shots.. I finished the session with the paint brush drill as well and was again able to call the shots. I will keep at it, but I am hoping I have an "Ah Ha" moment because I just don't seem to get it! Thank you again for sharing your knowledge! Kent

[Glock 22 in competition]

G22 is a great platform, could be the last gun you'll ever need if you wanted it to be...

Like Jman said, do some searches, all the info you'd ever need is around.

If you want to do a quick and cheap upgrade drop $15 on a 3.5lb connector and look up the $.25 trigger job, as for sights you'll find the Warren/Sevigny's get high marks around here (Ameriglo Defoor's are pretty much the same thing but cheaper).

The shooting part is the hard part... Two words: Ammo & Practice.

Good luck.

I have been searching for days on a Dawson front sight height recommendation for the G22 Warren Tactical rear/Dawson front and I can't seem to find one.... Do you have a thought on the front sight height? Thanks!

[Glock 35 sights]

Does anyone have a front sight height recommendation for the Warren Tactical rears? Looking at Dawson fronts .105 wide, I just need a height and whether it is POI or 6 O'clock hold. Any help appreciated!

[Sevigny Comp or Dawson Adj]

I like my Warren/Sevigny sights. However, at speed I had issues with bringing the fiber optic to the bottom of the sight chanel. I added some bright green paint below the red fiber optic and now I have what I feel to be a great set up. Precision shots are not affected, but my quick shots are hitting much more accurately.

Green means GO!!

Great pic thanks! Can I ask what your front sight height is? Is it POI or 6 O'Clock hold? I have a friend who is looking for his G22. I will probably end up with this set up on my G35 also.

[Lack of accuracy with Precision Moly]

Sorry double iPhone post! I am very happy with my Billy Bullets. Hit a 6x10" steel strip at 40 yards 6 out of 10 times free hand the other day with them. The misses were close. No lead build up, just some moly build up in barrel. This was out of my G35. Also use them in my G21. Rudy is great to work with also FYI. Prices are good.

Good luck!

[Lack of accuracy with Precision Moly]

I am very happy with my Billy Bullets. Hit a 6x10" steel strip at 40 yards 6 out of 10 times free hand the other day with them. The misses were close. No lead build up, just some moly build up in barrel. This was out of my G35. Also use them in my G21. Rudy is great to work with also FYI. Prices are good.

Good luck!

[Kyle's Flinch Breaker - 101]

Here is something I typed out to email to a friend...long ago. I've posted it here a few time, but I don't think it had it's own thread before.

Kyle's Flinch Breaker - 101 (generic version)

- Double plug. I doubt you are flinching due to noise, but double plug anyway...at least when you are shooting.

- Know that the big explosion going off at arms length won't do you any harm (simple, I know...but it is something the shooter has to "decide" to accept)

- less pressure with the strong hand grip...more pressure with the weak hand. The strong hand needs to be relaxed to operate the trigger in a smooth manner.

Calling the shot & follow-thru

If you have a flinch, then you just aren't calling the shot and following-thru. There is no way around that truth.

If you were calling the shot, you would see that it was off. Eventually, you just wouldn't take the shot.

Here are some things to see.

- You have to have a Front Sight focus. Razor sharp. Burn it in!!! Forget the target focus for close stuff crap...there are Masters that shouldn't be doing that.

When you next go to shoot, don't use a target. Aim at the berm. Not a rock or clump of mud, just the berm in general.

Watch the front sight ONLY. Make yourself see it track. That is your only goal here. Do single shots at first. Get a solid sight picture both before and after each shot. That is two sight pictures for each shot...follow-thru.

If you don't see the front sight lifting and coming back, then don't move on. This is vital. If you do see it, move to multiple shots...but keep seeing and keep that follow-thru!

- Next, move to a close target (one yard). Again, the focus is on watching the front sight track. Target blurry. The target just happens to be there. keep seeing the front sight...TWO sight pictures for each shot. Do single shots first.

You should be able to call each and every shot. If you can't, then you weren't focused on the front sight.

Never advance if you encounter a problem. If all goes well, move the target back a yard at a time.

- Never try to 'catch the sight' and pull the trigger as it (sight picture) wobbles around in the A-zone. Accept that the sights will move around on the target. Just focus on the front sight and release the shot. If it is off, then you will have called it from your read on the sights as the bullet was released.

This brings up the next point.

- TRUST. You HAVE to trust your sights. Don't look for hits on the target. EVER! Read the sights. If you shot a hoper or a Delta, make it up!

A big part of people missing is that they start to look for the hits. They end up looking AS the gun fires. As they look over the gun, they pull it off target.

If you call the sights, then there is no need to look (or listen) for hits.

If you find yourself doing the "pull the trigger NOW" thing, try this...pretend that your gun is a giant paint brush that extends to the target. Use your gun (sighted) to "paint" a circle around the A-zone. Keep painting the circle, then release the shot at any time along the circle. Call that shot. (don't worry about the hit in the A-zone).

If you find yourself looking at the target, or looking for hits ...instead of focusing on the front sight...then close your eyes (safely). Line up the sights between shots, then close your eyes and deliver the shot. Chances are your group will tighten up.

If you do the above...and still have a flinch (dry/live-fire) then let me know. Chances are, your flinch might come back during a match. If so, then slow down and call the shot...and follow-thru.

Hope you find this helpful!

Kyle

I know this is an old post, but I am glad I found it as yesterday's live fire practice confirmed to me what I had suspected for a long time, I flinch.... For some reason my G35 doesn't go into slide lock (another story... and I don't always have a good count in my head as to how many rounds I have let go and invariably I will flinch low and to the left when it runs dry. I haven't given it too much thought because in my matches I am getting good hits except for in the later stages of the match (indicator?) when things start to break down. Yesterday with a friends help, I was trying to figure out how to call my shots and I swear they were hitting dead center of the freshly painted plates on the plate rack.... I would call the shot dead center because that is the last vision I had of the sights when I triggered the shot. Almost everything was a 7 o'clock hit on the plate... Ugh!

I will start this regimen and see if I can get a handle on one; understanding and mastering the calling of shots and the fixing of what I believe to be a flinch. Thanks again for this great info!

[Blade landing in notch...just not low enough]

A nuetral grip will allow the front sight to return to exactly from where it left, with any reasonable grip pressure. Nuetral defined negatively: no front to back, back to front, or side to side grip pressure with either hand. Defined positively: Just grip the pistol with and equal amount of pressure from both hands.

Remember and summon the "total both hands grip feeling" as one feeling.

Test for grip nuetrality: Align the sights, close your eyes and fire the shot, then open your eyes and note the sight alignment.

If the sights are not perfectly aligned, without making any conscious effort to change any part of your grip, re-grip the pistol and repeat the drill.

Often the best way to learn a new skill is not to try to "figure it out" like we normally would. Instead, clearly state the goal. In this case, "The sights will return to perfect alignment after the shot fires."

Removing distracting influences, such as visual or by trying to mentally direct your gripping pressures - will allow your body to work it out.

The skills you can master by totally surrendering to that process and allowing your body to work things out can be mind blowing.

be

I am guessing that we would continue to strive for a balanced grip until it naturally came back into alignment when we have opened our eyes? Rather than adjusting the left hand because we experienced X result or the right hand because of Y result for example?

Exactly. If "it" [our mind] knows the goal, and sees what is happening instead, "it" will figure out how to get to the goal more quickly, if we let it. If we try to fix it with the conscious mind, we usually end up complicating the the solution.

be

Thanks Brian! Tried it at the range today and 9 of the 10 shots with eyes closed indexed back onto the original aiming point which made me very happy. The second time was not as good as only 5 of the 10 came back. I then made what seemed like a natural progression to 2 shots with my eyes closed... All my shots were 4-6 inches apart... Not sure what to make of that, but grip balance will be worked on a lot in the next month. Thanks again!

[Blade landing in notch...just not low enough]

A nuetral grip will allow the front sight to return to exactly from where it left, with any reasonable grip pressure. Nuetral defined negatively: no front to back, back to front, or side to side grip pressure with either hand. Defined positively: Just grip the pistol with and equal amount of pressure from both hands.

Remember and summon the "total both hands grip feeling" as one feeling.

Test for grip nuetrality: Align the sights, close your eyes and fire the shot, then open your eyes and note the sight alignment.

If the sights are not perfectly aligned, without making any conscious effort to change any part of your grip, re-grip the pistol and repeat the drill.

Often the best way to learn a new skill is not to try to "figure it out" like we normally would. Instead, clearly state the goal. In this case, "The sights will return to perfect alignment after the shot fires."

Removing distracting influences, such as visual or by trying to mentally direct your gripping pressures - will allow your body to work it out.

The skills you can master by totally surrendering to that process and allowing your body to work things out can be mind blowing.

be

I am guessing that we would continue to strive for a balanced grip until it naturally came back into alignment when we have opened our eyes? Rather than adjusting the left hand because we experienced X result or the right hand because of Y result for example?

[Transition Drill Part 1]

I finally tried out the transition drill tonight. What great practice. I ran through it 10 times and finally started feeling like it was flowing on the last two. I've been at this since the 1st of the year and I'm a low B in production.

My 10 runs averaged a 7.98 with an avg of a little under 1 C per run. Most of my C's were pretty close to the A zone so hopefully I can tighten that up next time out.

However, my last run was clean at 6.76 so I stopped!

This is going to help me out a ton.

This drill is a ton o fun isn't it! I am having so much fun, I am afraid to move on to #2.... Did you see Flexmoney's thoughts on how he transitions? Good stuff! Good shooting...

[Transition Drill Part 1]

Nice work Downrange!

Thanks Brian! This is the most fun I have had in a long time....

Flex, While doing dryfire Transition Drill #1 tonight, I noticed something that I hadn't identified before. I have noticed that sometimes it flowed and sometimes it didn't and I wanted to know why. What I found was that as my eyes transitioned and locked on to the next target and the sights/gun followed closely behind, the movement of the sights (swinging into view from the left) caught my eyes or more specifically my left eye I suspect, drawing my vision off of my target and back on to the moving object/sights. It seemed to help when I focused more on the target and let the sights swing into the slot or line that my eyes were focused on therefore bringing the sights into a perfect focus on the target. At that point it just seems to flow again.... Fun practice!

[Transition Drill Part 1]

Visual patience.

Brian,

It occurs to me to say that visual patience need not be based in time, but rather in mindset.

?

Definitely.

(Monty Python voice)... Wait for it!

Visual patience.

Brian,

Independent of time, instead it is an anchoring thought.

?

Independent of time, then there is no thought, because thought is time, and time is thought.

In the active voice, your first sentence nails it - Visual patience is not based in time but rather in mindset.

be

After almost 7 days of be transition #1 dryfire drills in my garage doing it the way Brian and Flex suggested, I was able to get to the range. At first in my garage,I was painfully slow but I pressed on and within a short amount of time, I was going as fast the proper way as I was flashing through the dryfire drill without hardly seeing my sights at all!

I went out to the range today and put it to the test... After two decent runs through, but still leaning to my old ways, I finally settled down to what I had been practicing in my garage and WHAT a difference! "The mindset" "Anchoring thought" as I understand it is to focus on the goal of flash your eyes to the next target and drive the gun to your target with a perfect sight picture and repeat. The result for me was that again "time" disappeared and was not a factor and my hits were tighter and low and behold 3/4 of a second dropped off of my best previous time.... As a beginning shooter I plan on building my foundation on this principle for a long time. Thanks again guys!

[Your Pistol's Reliability]

I recently purchased a kwa pistol from Bam airsoft. Phil was extremely helpful, and answered alot of questions. They are top notch.

+1 on this!

[Transition Drill Part 1]

Consider shooting as therapy and call it a day.

You are wise beyond your years Flex!

[Transition Drill Part 1]

Visual patience.

Brian,

It occurs to me to say that visual patience need not be based in time, but rather in mindset.

?

Definitely.

(Monty Python voice)... Wait for it!

Visual patience.

Brian,

Independent of time, instead it is an anchoring thought.

?

Independent of time, then there is no thought, because thought is time, and time is thought.

In the active voice, your first sentence nails it - Visual patience is not based in time but rather in mindset.

be

It really scares me that I am beginning to think that I am beginning to understand this thread.....

Now I am going to have to choose between spending money on bullets or therapy.....

[Transition Drill Part 1]

Visual patience.

Brian,

It occurs to me to say that visual patience need not be based in time, but rather in mindset. Independent of time, instead it is an anchoring thought.

?

Flex, I believe I saw a glimpse of this on Sunday. For three stages I was "See More" and it did not seem to be based in time but in application and mindset or as I call it, my one shot thought. I fell back into old habits on stages 3 and 4, but stages 5, 1 and 2 were on another level for me. I am still unclassified but I suspect I am a good D shooter, and out of 86 shooters I finished stage 2 30th overall and I had a "See Less" moment on the stage when I failed to engage a tucked away plate or it might have been 4 to 5 higher. My stage points were high and my time was better than many A and B shooters and TIME WAS NEVER A FACTOR it just was what it was, which to me solidifies your point for lack of a better term.

Drills this week and for the next year will be focused on this concept "See More".

Thanks again for your time on this and everything else you have helped on!

[SR 4756]

For Moly bullets in the 40 I tend to like single based propellants.. and Solo 1000 fits the bill perfectly.. It is what I was using for moly bullets before I started casting my own. Another powder I used for 40 cal minor was Ramshot Competition, a shotshell target powder. The only downside to Solo 1000 is it is reverse temperature sensitive.. if you are major already at 70 deg, it will be MORE major the lower the temp goes. Otherwise I have had no issues with it.

Sargenv it was great meeting you at the 4/3/11 Richmond match! I shot with the moly/Solo 1000 combo for the first time yesterday and I really liked it! I shot production and the rounds I shot were in the 150pf range. I am going to try and get it down a little and get my G35 to run as well as it did at the 150pf mark. Are you loading for the weather? I do normally load a day or two before the match. Great match yesterday and it is a great club you guys have in Richmond! Kent

[Transition Drill Part 1]

Please don't think fast or slow. Think SEE MORE. Have to visual patience (which doesn't mean slow, it means to be in a mindset to SEE) to allow yourself to see what you need to see. SEE MORE.

I believe the very point of the dry fire practice, and drills...with iron sights...it to train your eyes.

I snap my visions to locate the target spot, then bring my vision back to the front sight as the gun drives to the target spot. I want to see the front sight in a razor sharp focus. I can do this faster than I can move the gun.

Another eye snap, target spot thread.

Having played golf at a fairly high level, golfers for the most part understand you have one swing thought for the day and if you are smart ONE only. I am heading out to the match in a few and I am taking my ONE match thought with me

"SEE MORE" Having the patience to SEE MORE... Thanks again Flex!

[Conversion Kit or Pistol]

If you are planning to compete, I would recommend a conversion for the gun you use in competition, recognising that there will be differences beyond the cost of ammo and the change in recoil.

First, the conversion you get may not closely match your competition gun. For instance, I use G34's and G35's in competition, but the only Glock conversion available is the G17.

Second, the gun will likely balance differently in your hand. The 22 LR has a very light slide (this goes even more so for Air Soft gas blow back pistols). Between the shorter length, the lighter weight of the gun plus ten round mag with its dinky cartridges and my G35 with ten rounds of 180 gr ammo, there's a huge difference that needs compensating for.

I find, for instance, that on speed draws, if I practice first with the 22 and then switch to the G34 or G35, I will break my first shots low because I haven't adjusted to the weight of the new gun yet.

Still, it's trigger time, and with the trigger and receiver of your match gun, so that's to the good.

Have fun, whatever your choice!

Hi Kevin! I am probably a month or so away from going in this direction, so it would be fun to talk and learn more about it from you soon. Cheers, Kent