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dnuke146

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Posts posted by dnuke146

  1. Just got my DAA Racer from Shooters Connection, ordered Saturday, showed up today, from KY to OR, that's great Customer Service. Anyway, adjusted it and locked it down in about 10min. I can't tell the difference between drawing M&P from DAA and 2011 from Limcat, just as smooth. Two [emoji106] up!

  2. So on hold with Dillon right now for last 5min and automated voice comes on and says I'm currently 20th in que.... So what's everyone else doing for the next hour;)

    Doug

  3. Looking for personal experience with this scope on slide mount or saddle mount, pro's cons to the scope,( not so much how they are mounted on gun, I'm familiar with pros and cons of mounting locations. Am going to use a SJC micro mount) I know they're new, was just hoping someone has torture tested one and can give review.

    Thanks in advance,

    Doug

  4. I was using a light striker spring and a 13 or 14lb recoil spring. Started having light hits, at a match of course, got a Glock standard striker spring from shooter in squad and put it in. Then started having failures to go into battery. Got a stock Glock captured recoil spring from same guy, popped it off the Glock plastic rod and put it in. Has run 100% since then... Still running those same Glock springs... That was over 5k rounds ago and busts all primers... It did change my 1lb 8oz trigger to 1lb 10oz but I can deal with that;)

  5. So this is what happened to me with my production 5" pro and how I fixed it:

    When I got it back from GS it had a 1lb 8oz trigger on it. 14lb RS and a reduced power striker spring, ran for a while.

    Then, naturally in middle of a match were you don't stop to diagnose these things, light hits, first shot and after reload, I know what some of you are thinking and your right, but I'm not that quick so let me get there;). So I change the striker spring out with a Glock standard strength cause that's all we could scrounge up at match. More light hits, very light trigger pulls like it wasn't engaged, especially after reloads.... Ahhhh, I'm slow but I get it, the heavier striker spring just helped increase the problem, replaced the recoil spring with a captured Glock factory spring, popped it off the plastic Glock rod and put it on the Glock tungsten guide rod I have in my M&P that I took out of my G34, I'm slow and cheap BTW, Also the Glock spring won't fit over the M&P tungsten guide rod I had, go figure. And problem has been fixed ever since. I was knocking the slide out of battery when reloading with the weight of a loaded magazine. The light recoil spring was not always going into battery and the heavier striker spring just fights more against it going into battery. I have over 4k more through the gun with same spring setup with zero issues.

    Still running a Glock striker spring and a factory Glock recoil spring and the gun runs flawless. The trigger pull went way up, it's now 1lb 10oz :).

    My story/suggestion isn't about running Glock springs in your M&P it's abut the fine line when running light springs and the balancing act when you start to play around with lighter this, heavier that. Definitely found in these guns, with springs at least, that each action....

    Oh and btw if anyone is interested in a sub 2lb trigger on their Pro, with factory parts, other than just the Apex RAM, PM me I'll send you my guys contact info, he's got it down, I think he's still charging $100. I have two guns that he has done, as good as some of the light 1911 triggers I have. Oh, this is with all safeties still engaged, mine are on my production guns.

    Doug

  6. I have caught some slack flack for drilling a hole in my slide but hey, it's my gun. :D

    I was thinking more about the holes you drilled in the racker, allowing air to flow through and not slow the slide down... Good call!!! :D

  7. Greetings,

    So I have a Single Stack Frame that has been hard chromed, it has also been filed on and hard chrome removed in spots by filing. I have researched on here about removing the hard chrome and looks like Hydrogen Peroxide is easiest way to go.

    My Question is... Do I just submerge the frame into a bath of HP and wait? How Long? 2. Will the HP damage the exposed steel where the Chrome has been removed?

    Thanks in Advance,

    Doug

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