tgford58
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Posts posted by tgford58
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Look at this site. Maybe it will help
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I will take you upp on that. I have a couple of 1911 coming off the bench in the next month that I was going to high temp enamel. This looks like a superior finish. We can try one and if it turns out as good as yours then I'll buy the supplies.
Thank you for the offer.
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Man you did one fantastic job. Tell me about the Caswell system. Where did you purchase and what was its product name?
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Springfields I have worked on come .330X60X.075 and are .180 blades.
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You did really good! I like how it turned out.
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Robar Industries is who I use. They have NP3 and they do a fantastic job. Here's the link.
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Hmmm, as a practicing gunsmith of 34 years full time work. I find "Gunsmith Time" to be quite an insult. A professional gunsmith's time is about 65 to 80 hours a week. As so very much of that time is spent listening to customer's descriptions of what he bought, how the bought it, how the found it, how grandpa fed the family with it how he felt after shooting last week . Etc. I charge partly as a counselor and as a gunsmith too when the time arises. Often a "Gunsmiths time" is spent by listening to customers explain how to do a job I have done 100 or maybe 500 times.
A "Gunsmiths Time" is filled with looking for parts a customer has asked the gunsmith to look for. Never mind the internet has been around along time, most customers can spell and google is free. My time should not be. One hour in the morning answering questions for free on e-mail. An hour writing guns in and out of the log books. Two to three hours every few days looking for and ordering parts, finding information on new procedures, looking up historical dates for customers. Then there is machinery upkeep, cleaning the shop, etc. The only way a gunsmith can make any money is to be closed as many days as possible. Being open one day would be ideal so there was less conversation and more work getting done. This is in a field so very difficult to learn it takes a minimum of ten years to start knowing what you are doing well enough to make decent money. A profession so arcane even wives and co-workers do not understand what the gunsmith does. A profession requiring 50 to 100 K investment made over 20 years to "arrive". A professional gunsmith will schedule the work on a calendar. do his best to stick to it. And if there is a blip, call the customer and explain. Even with this straight forward clerical work, the customer often confuses one month with two. A call yesterday by an irate customer upset that his gun was not done by now as it had been two months. The card write in date was only 28 days old. Customers do not read signs. Customers do not remember what gun they left. Customers listen to answering machine telling the hours and days clearly and then on a closed day drive 50 miles and kick the door and curse me to God. I hear this often. I'm inside repairing 1900 guns a year and if I stop to talk to them, I lose $2.33 per minute. With 250 guns to work on and a non-stop stream of questions and endless phone calls, I am surprised I get anything done at all. Thank god there are few gunsmiths out there or I would not be so busy. And thank god for my customers. 95 % whom are completely sane. It's the other 5% who give me crap about "Gunsmith Time." In all fairness, I DO understand the complaint. I do not repair my own motorcycle any more. Those damned Ninja repairmen probably sit around goofing off most of the time, drinking beer, playing with their own bikes. I bet they have a 40 hour workweek and make too much money too. Oh the Protocol Design fellow is a good pal of mine and he works more than I and is too nice to be sure. I am the grumpy evil one who locks the door and files away on bbls as the irate kick my door yelling at God.
And very well said. Thank you. I am printing and posting in my shop.
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Depending on the radius you want on the end - I use a 3/8 end mill for 90% but also a 1/2 if I want a smoother curve. The trick isn't the ends. The trick is indicating in the slide so that the lands you create are the same width down the length of the slide and setting the angle so that they match.
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Look at Brownells. They have frame fillers for 1911 and 2011. You slide them in and tighten the vice on the butt end.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=912/Product/1911_AUTO_MAGAZINE_WELL_FILLER
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Its the low mount. That's OK. Just stop the tri-top on the top land also. It can be a pain to get the two angles the same width and length but it looks cool when you are done. Depending on how much you are trying to shed in weight you may consider only cutting the top flat and serrating? Just an option.
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Sort of the reason. It is to give a smooth surface to aid in both chambering and extraction. Removing the reamer marks is the point, the effect that it has is a topic of discussion.
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Well, I called Dawsons and found that I would have to ship the slide to them after it is complete for them to make a new sight for it. I think that I'm going to do something similar to what another member pm'd me with:
That being said, does anyone have a 1911 auto slide jig (preferably the Brownells one) that I can rent/borrow?
If you have the bomar low mount rear you want to stop the top and side flats at the same point around the top of the slide. Cosmetic more than functional.
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Sounds like your problem is solved. There are too many variables to have a chart of speeds. Barrel makers use their tooling until it drifts. So if you get a barrel with new tooling you get one set of parameters, older tooling completely different parameters. I wouldn't over think it. You will generally be able to build a load that bridges the gap. I have one load that makes major in 4 guns. About a 75fps spread. Send the gun off, get the barrel fit tight and have fun
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And, I apologize for being so bold, if Bob has the barrel, I would send the gun to him and have it fit. He's one of the smiths that set the bar we all try to clear.
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If the slide stop fits the frame then alter the hole in the link if that is what is causing it. You can tell by taking the barrel out and putting the slide stop through the link. It should spin free. If not, take some 320 sandpaper, make a cylinder and lightly polish the link hole. My bet is if it is tight it is only by a few tenths.
Other potential problems can be an overly agressive detent spot, or the area that impacts the magazine follower just doesn't work for your magazines. I have CMC mags that work perfectly in my gun that won't hold open my wife's and vice versa.
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Brownells sells a detent spotting drill so that you can get it lined up correctly.
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I use Storm Lake and Nowlin barrels and good luck with both. Scheumann is my #1 choice but until they get machines running full tilt again - they are out of the picture.
As an FYI - a lot affects speed/chamber pressure. Chamber dimension, bore dimension etc. Should be close enough though.
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Hammer follow happens sometimes. My competition gun will on occasion with an empty chamber. It never does when cycling a round. Bend the sear leg of the sear spring forward a bit to help hold it in engagement.
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Look in Brownells catalog. They sell Craytex bits. If I am not mistaken, Mr. Strader is trying to elude to using a craytex on the chamber. It works very well.
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Why? They have something new?
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I've never been asked to increase the trigger play but if that's what you want.
Does the trigger have adjusting tabs on the front of the bow? Many triggers come with two tabs - one on each side of the trigger itself that are bent out to reduce trigger play. If those are there you can bend them back a bit. If not I would probably use a riffler file and advance the sloped portion of the trigger channel inside the frame. I don't advocate changing the geometry of the sear and certainly wouldn't suggest filing on the back of the disconnector. You may gain some by polishing the back of the trigger bow and the front of the disconnector but no where near the .020 that you want.
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I suggest a new firing pin and a heavy spring. The firing pin should have a smooth radius on the tip. Pull it and see if the end has been peened and if a burr is catching on the firing pin hole. In any case, don't try to save the pin.
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Like Loves to shoot, we keep them until claimed. Legally you can set a time after which you can sell the firearm to recover the cost of the work and parts - However - you have to be able to demonstrate in court that the customer was notified to pick it up AND that they were aware of the requirement. In practice, people seem to come pretty quickly after you contact them that the weapon is complete - especially if you collect the charges up front, our SOP for custom work and special parts.
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With a case mouth headspaced cartridge it is important that there is a sharp shoulder for the case to rest on. If that shoulder is chamfered or, in the worst case removed, it is possible for the cartridge to move deeper into the barrel throat. The case cannot properly expand and can result in extremely high pressures. I've repaired guns where the owner tried to polish the chamber and had case ruptures and blown primers. I have never witnessed it but I would imagine the same could happen with a bottleneck case. If the shoulder is moved forward or the angle is changed it seems reasonable that you could cause excessive headspace.
Bought VFD china on ebay
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Ok, I was just browsing along until I read this part. I just purchased a new (for me) 3 phase Bridgeport mill and Clausing lathe. I'm setting these up in our new shop that unfortuantely does not have 3=phase power. I was sorting out my options on rotary converters when I read this.
Can you explain a bit - the electronics for this process and some ideas on where to purchase. Sounds like the way to go.