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Gary H.

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Posts posted by Gary H.

  1. OK, I started putting pieces together to start my build. The one thing that I find odd is the slide weights. I purchased a 40 FS for this build because I wanted to put a 9 conversion barrel in it. I figured if I were going to have an extra barrel/caliber laying around, this one is the one I'd like to have. Also, it would allow me to shoot limited with the same pistol with only a barrel chage.

    To my surprise, there is no slide weight advantage to purchasing an FS gun. The slide on my 5" 9 Pro is 4 grams heavier than my new 4.25" FS! It seems that S&W has already lightened the slide on the 5" model by narrowing it at the top. Holding them side by side, you can see the different profile. There is no advantage to purchasing the FS to start. Slide lightening will still have to be done. The 5" model could have been trimmed at the front to accept a shorter (FS) barrel. The 4.25 will have to completely get recontoured in it's diet plan. I can't imagine the 40 weighing more than the 9 as they are claimed to be the same weight from the factory specs and my 9c has the same width slide as the 40 FS.

  2. I'll second the Pro model. Weight difference is ????? The slide profile is different from the FS to the Pro. The FS is wider while the Pro is a little narrower at the top and longer. The longer sight radius is what I'd go after for a limited gun since there is very little weight difference.

  3. Kit is installed in my thumb safety model .40 full size. I am still trying to figure out what is forward set about this trigger ? If anything it is more to the rear than the factory trigger. Pull weight and break are good and if anything I will increase the pull weight a little more with spring changes.

    Nothing is forward set about the trigger. The sear allows the shot to break earlear in the trigger pull. I suppose that's why they call it the Forward Set Sear rather than the forward set trigger. On your old trigger, the sear broke after moving the trigger what seemed like forever. On this one, it should be breaking about 1/8" or less maybe (I didn't measure it) into the pull. If you have the competetion spring package in your gun, you can get a heavier trigger pull (estimated at 5 lbs.) by using the factory striker spring and the trigger return spring they supplied with the kit. To get it heavier, I have no idea.

  4. Hi BIll.

    Some of the 9mm barrels in the M&Ps were crap from the factory. I would just call the factory and tell them your barrel is crap, what groups it will do, and tell them you would like the barrel replaced. Be firm but nice as they did have bad barrels.

    Keep your targets from this barrel, and duplicate the accuracy testing. If you want to not waste your time, just buy the KKM and you will be a much happier camper. I have storm lake barrels in my 9's, and will get some KKM when I have the $$$$.

    Good luck,

    DougC

    I've have to say ditto to this post if your having this bad of a problem. When I got my 9 Pro originally, it was shooting 6" low with factory ammo. The first call, they blamed it on the ammo saying to use 124 or 147 and it'll shoot higher. The second call, they gave in and sent me a ship order on their dime and put a new barrel in it. Had it back in about 10 days.

  5. Received mine today and installed it. I ended up going back to the competetion springs and it's a little heavier pull than it was before the install. I like the short travel but it's definately going to take some getting used to! The safety on mine was a little catchy initially and I thought it was going to be a real problem, but after working with it for a while, I realized that I didn't have the trigger pin in quite far enough and I guess there was some binding from that causing it. I'll go run 300 or 400 rounds through it tomorrow and plan on shooting a local USPSA match saturday morning. I'll know by then how I like it. I really like the trigger the way it was before so we'll have to see.

    IMHO opinion, the RAM is definately not needed with this setup. I am wondering if they are going to make something for the new thumb safety models. It would be nice not to have deal with the trigger safety on my FS and compact.

  6. I have to wonder if you got an odd ball barrel. My gun doesn't like the 115s! Accuracy is terrible with them. I shoot 147's in both my 9 Pro and my Compact with no key holing. I just went through a batch (1000) of MG 147's with no issues, tried Barry's 147 jacketed 147s with no issues, and am now working on a case of BBI 147s and again, no issue. With my Pro, I loaded 3.1 TG and was just light at 845 fps average. I bumpbed it up to 3.3 and it was safely at 132 pf. I have now switched to N320 simply because I like the recoil much more and I hate the nasty sooty residue that the TG left in my gun.

    That being said, how is the felt recoil compared to the 124s? I went through a sampling (1000) Berrys 124 HBFP and (1000) MG 124 JHP and I really like it compared to the 147s, using 4.1 grains of N320 in all 124 loads. My splits are faster and the snappier recoil lets me get the gun back on target quicker. The timer is telling me this so it's not just perceived. My next order will be the 124's.

  7. Hate to sound stupid, but how is a sear an external modification???? Does the trigger look different than the stock one?

    While it is labeled the FSS, it is a kit and the forward set sear allows you to use the forward set trigger. The trigger is what throws it out of SSP. I love my Apex Competetion kit in my 9 ESP gun, but I just bought a 40 Pro. I'm going to put the parts out of my 9mm frame (modified) into my 40 stock frame and the new kit into my modified frame so I can switch back slides/barrels back and forth and shoot SSP/Production with one and ESP/Limited with the other. Gotta buy the parts for one more anyhow, I just thought I'd try the new trigger/sear system.

    I just wish they would ship them! I'm not just antsy, my guns need to be cleaned and I'm too lazy to tear them apart an additional time if I don't have to.

  8. I don't know how you'd do with this because I have no complaints about the S&W frame. I think you'd need to have something that would make it desirable. I don't think you could make one without a replaceable strap as that's a pretty desired feature. In my case, I think you'd need to offer some desirable feature other than just a weight advantage unless it completely mimicked the existing frame plus the additional weight and then I think you'd run into patent infringement issues.

  9. And, btw, make sure to get your finger out of the trigger area when reloading or clearing jams ;) (:23, :38, :52)

    Its the camera angle. With my grip, if I hold my finger out straight and don't rest it on the frame above the trigger, that is where it's at. There is one frame that is questionable when I finally get the new mag in where I may have bent the trigger finger the rest of the time, my finger was not in the trigger guard.

  10. The load is simply too light (M&Ps have a fairly heavy slide (heavier than a G34, for example)). Change your seater stem so that it contacts the side of the bullet, not the nose, and your OAL will vary much less. With such a big range of OAL, and such a small capacity case, you're getting wide swings in pressure/velocity, and some are probably no higher than 120PF. Get the OAL fixed, bump the load to 135+PF, and see what happens.

    The slide simply isn't getting far enough past the next round to strip it properly out of the mag. R,

    Wow, two guys at our club are shooting the BBI's with 2.9g of N320 and not having the issue. As far as changing the seater stem. I tried both the round nose and the flat nose and I'm getting the same results. I believe it's because of variations in the bullets from manufacturing. I've got about 2200 rounds left of them and am going to Zeros and MGs for important matches because of the issues. I've been running mine quite low (like 119 - 122) on PF prior to getting the chrono and hadn't had a problem previously.

  11. You are correct RWF. The spent casing had ejected and the next live round failed to feed properly. To me a stove pipe meant a stuck tubular piece sticking up in the air. I have no idea of correct terminology, way too new to pistol shooting. The base of the bullet was still in the mag and the projectile was sticking pretty much straight up causing the mag to stick with the force of the slide.

  12. That was a typo. should have been 1.116 to 1.134

    Shot and had a stove pipe jam

    I am shooting reloads, 147 BBI- 3.2 N320 @ 1.16 - 1.34 OAL. I'm getting a wide swing in the OAL of these bullets because I believe the flat point is of different diameters, but with other loads I have been able to shoot from 1.08 to 1.45 with this shape bullet.

    Don't believe I could get anything that measures 1.34" into any of my 9mm's.

    1.16" is already getting close to the limit, I think.

    If cartridges are too long, wonder if that might cause a stove pipe?

    Jack

  13. LOL, if it was caused by limp wristing because of hanging in the chair. I'll probably not be doing that again in the forseeable future! I wasn't doing too bad on the stage timewise or scorewise. I was only 7 down at the finish but I lost track of where I was when the jam occured and dumped more rounds than I needed downrange.

  14. I'm running an 11 pound spring with a slightly reduced length striker spring. My PF is right at 131. The round was stuck in the magazine almost straight up. It clearly didn't feed it's way out of the mag properly and the slide was resting against the side of the brass with the lead angled toward the chamber. There was no way it was going to feed. It doesn't appear that the prior shot was overly fast and the magazine spring should be ok. (I think). Might need to order a few replacements. This gun has around 3000 rounds through it and if that was the #2 mag, it probably had around 500 - 600 rounds through it.

  15. Shot the Missouri state IDPA match this past weekend and had a stove pipe jam on this stage.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/GaryHernJr?feature=mhee#p/u/8/WBt7mDmunmM

    Tried finding my bullet to see what the possible cause was but could not with the next shooter coming up and the time needed to get strapped into the chair. This has happened only 1 time before and it's been awhile with a different load.

    Does anyone have an idea of what may cause this? I am shooting reloads, 147 BBI- 3.2 N320 @ 1.16 - 1.34 OAL. I'm getting a wide swing in the OAL of these bullets because I believe the flat point is of different diameters, but with other loads I have been able to shoot from 1.08 to 1.45 with this shape bullet.

  16. My M&P doesn't like 115s. It shoots the BBI 147 very tight (2" off hand @ 15 yards)with a flier or two during each group, the XTP 147 and Zero 147s well at about 2 1/2" off hand, and the Berry and MG 124's about the same. I like shooting both the 124s and 147 much better than the 147s. The fliers with the BBI are more than likely caused by bullet uniformity because this batch sucks when it comes to that.

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