Rush

HI all, I was just wondering, I have this mag (38s, STI, 140mm) that continually falls out of the gun when I'm firing... I compared it to the others I got and aside from its age... visually, it doesn't appear to be any different.... I'm getting it replaced anyway as it doesn't happen with my other mags but what would be wrong with a mag for that to happen? it was really funny when it fell out the first time... I thought I'd pressed the mag catch.. but it continued to repeat with subsequent shots... good thing it was during practice... Thanks in advance... Regards,

Hi Ross, I'll test for parallax problems as you recommend. didn't know about that one and I was thinking it was purely a elevation and windage adjustment problem. I've re-zeroed the sight at 16 meters. So far, its holding its zero. For consistency, I checked the groups against a board and then a 4 x 8" plate at 30 meters. Regards,

Thanks. I'll re-zero today under the new "procedures" (",).. Glad to know the c-more ain't broke though.. relieved... so i'll loosen the elevation locks and keep the windage locks snug... Thanks again...

I'm using Dan Bedells 7 port comp. Its on a 3 port hybricomp. I came from using a dawson TJ comp that was equally good and softer, but it made the gun muzzle heavy. As I have a lightened slide, the balance was just so off that the only way to go was Ti. Regards,

Thanks EriK, Ong... Just tried the search (",) .. sorry bout that.... I'll be abit more "proactive" next time... I normally loosen all the lock screws... I'll re-zero with just the elevation screw and leave the windage lock screw alone. Its never happened before with the serendipity model so I was surprised when I tested the new open. It had two different aim impacts in two days... Regards & Thanks Again.

Just wanted to ask around on people's experience with the "Railway" version of c-more. Its on a single side mount on a STI frame.... What's irritating about this c-more is that it won't stay zeroed! I zero at about 20 yards... so adjust adjust... turn a screw here and there until I consistently hit a 1" group at about 20. So I tighten the adjusment screw locks.. shoot off two groups of 5 rds and...... the darn things "zero" has moved away. I loosen the adjustment screw locks, fire another 5rd grp and it shoots back at its original "zeroed" position... What concerns me is if I keep the adjusment screw locks loose (a) I'll constantly have to zero the gun ( I'll loose the lock screws somehow... Is this a warranty issue with C-more? Can I get a replacement? Never had this problem with the "Serendipity" models before... Thanks in advance... Kind Regards

Theo, its lighter than steel... that's my main reason for going for one. Helps the gun balance better.. How it compares lifewise, some say its shorter and some don't notice any difference. I'v only been using it for a short while but I like it enough and hope that it lasts just as long as a steel one. Hope this helps... Regards,

thanks... great support group here... I finally got it back... so they fixed evrything i complained about.. (they're supposed to be specialists at open and std guns..) and I tested it at their shop and pointed out to them evrything I didn't like when I came to get it again.... it took a day to get it done... but i finally got it like i wanted it to be... However, the stuff I complained about was just basic... I expected more "quality work" and "assurance" from them given the price... I'll probably consider a different vendor next time i build an open gun... they charge alot and that's why it was so disappointing when I got the gun the first time and I found so much wrong with it. I actually waited quite patiently for it... told them no rush, just get it right... PS. They're not in the states so don't worry about it (",) Thanks again.. i got another question but I'll put in a new post... Regards to all

well... the guns gotta run reliably before you can say anything about the owner (",)... thought the fun in new guns would be in tuning it... not in telling the gun smith what he should have known before he gave me the gun.... for me... the ejectior and extractor stuff is basic assembly.. and I havn't even tried schuemanns timing tests yet... but its fun and exasperating at the same time... so I'll just stick with it till i get it how i want it... thanks all for the advice... so I'm gonna stick a bedell titanium comp on it, a sti recoil master and test it with various springs... after i get it back.... (",) enjoy the day everyone! thanks for the posts

Thanks to all for the tips... This gun is going to take more time than I thought to get it to run and run and run... ah, well.... more range time needed... and some more ranting (",) Got to say though, Bob's articles are really helpful... thanks for that. Leo, you made me think there... still thinking... (",) Regards, Regards,

My Gunsmith has a lot to answer for (*&^%@$ he did tell me to test it first but...... a. The first round in the mag is touching the ejector b. The brass hits the scope mount when ejecting, he needs to tune the ejector so it throws brass out sideways.... c. he didn't trim the grip to match the magwell... d. The recoil guide rod hits the comp (there's aline under the comp where the guide rod is touching....) e. I'm waiting for the comp then the whole gun is going back... Jeez Sheesh! just venting frustration here.. thanks lots...

Flex, Thanks... I've tried the timing drills already... the gun shoots well.. but I just don't like the balance at the moment.... The slide is about 1.5 ounces lighter now and with the dawson comp, its muzzle heavy... Not that the dawson comp is bad... its actually quite good. But I feel i need to get the gun to be more neutral handling and balanced near the trigger... It just isn't light enough to work with the gun (but that's just me though...) I've done about 450 rounds through it so far to break it in... Thanks again.. Rgds,

Good Day to everyone... Hoping to benefit from the experience and knowledge in this forum as I really need it... just took delivery of a new open blaster and put about 450 rounds though it... justy didn't feel right yet so I guess it trial and error time to get it just right for me... The gun's based on a : - STI frame, - 38s, 5" length - Slide is tri top, factory lightened. No porting/cuts on the slide other than that though. - Dawson TJ Comp, Bull barrel config. - Schuemann Three port hybricomp... List of things to do right now is to: - replace the dawson comp with a titanium one (Bedell). The dawson comp is just too heavy and long.. makes the gun muzzle heavy... I've heard god things about the bedell comps so probably put that on it but wanted to ask about other opinions on it... especially the forward angle of the chambers... I'm used to vertical chambers... plan on shooting 124 gr heads at a target PF of about 160-165... - install a recoil master, light. However, heard about its poor reliability and was wondering if STI has corrected them to be more reliable... (previous poor experience with one also.. the spring came out of the reverse plug...) had to cut the reverse plug away just to get the recoil master out.. never used it again after that) - alternatively, do away with the reoil master and just hollow out the single piece guide rod to reduce front end weight further... - recoil springs... I'm at 10lbs now as a 8 lb spring made the muzzle drop to much... still mulling weather to change anything with the springs... I'm trying to make the gun balance at the trigger area... would really appreciate your views on the above and anything other advice to tuning an open gun so it shoots flat and soft... Thanks in advance... Regards, Rob

Hi all! What's a good drill to practice movements? I was reviewing some of the videos we shot in the last four weeks of competition and noticed the following: a. slow off the beep... about 1.5 seconds froom beep to first shot b. slow to move off the beep...... jeez... c. moved fast but shot slow once I got into the box/port.. this is a combination of factors like slow to get the gun on target/transitions and d. multiple foot positions for 1 port.. several metric boards... Thanks all and Regards

SGDM.. Apologies on the thread hijack really didn't mean to hijack it good luck on cutting your barrel

Thanks. I was planning to use a shortened government slide cut by about 1/2" and then a government frame. The government barrel cut to fit the 4.5" gov't slide and w/ an EGW cone comp should work right? What I do want as a next open gun would be of the new shorty guns. I'd dearly love to have have Dan Bedell, Benny or Bob build one for me... (so I wouldn't have to go searching for info on how to build one... but they're to far for me...) Anyway, the configuration would be a STI gov't frame and shortened slide, AET classic barrel, 7 port EGW Cone comp and then some porting. Probably 3 ports max..... I was actually thinking of 1/8" ports at about .4" c-c distance. Anyone tried these? I know muzzle flip, felt recoil and blast is a personal thing to each shooter... just wondering if there was a scientific explanation as to port sizing and distances of ports... Thanks Lots.. Really appreciate it. Regards

Thanks. Was a bit worried on the AET barrels. Now if I can only find some specifications on drilling port sizes and c-c distances for them ona 4.5" barrel and cone comp (hoping here... hoping)

in line with cutting barrels, if its a Schuemann AET barrel, would cutting it by about .5" to fit a cone comp and a shortened gov't slide adversely affect its accuracy. I may end up doing this myself

Checked the brass... no pressure signs or blackening. Might need a new Firing pin though, did notice a little primer flow... have an extra EGW one so I'll swap out with the old one. Capsian, thanks for the tip on 7625. Although 3n38 is more expensive, I only load about 8.6 gr on it vs 9.4 on the SP2. looks like it would just even out cost wise and SP2 certainly isn't as user friendly as I'd hoped it would be.

of course this is just letting it rip :Don't even ask me to count the A's on these runs

You might want to bring down you trigger pull to 2 lbs or less. Mine is about 2 lbs, and I find that any higher, its difficult to have fast splits in the .13 region. Never hit a .11 though. On my production gun (S&W910), I do about .16 with a SA pull of about 7 lbs i think.

lol.... thanks.. Its staying as is for the moment... Although i"m building a new open super 38 right now, I was thinking of making the older gun a sort of project gun. like cut the slide by 3/4" to 1/2", commander bull barrel comp to make it a shorty... I'm gonna let that idea stew for a while... Rgds

Thanks. I'm gonna try a lower load with a heavier bullet. may make it more user friendly.

Thanks. Its not to bad yet.. I just tested at the range this morning. sub 1" groups at 15 yds so not to worrying yet... One thing I learned was not to use the teflon 124 gr coated bullets... I can't make them group no matter what I do... lead of fmj rocks! Regards

Thanks Erik, appreciate the forum links. I'm trying to do more research on the principle of the thing and who makes it. makes me appreciate a product more if I can see how it works, is installed and who made it... the engineer in me I guess. I need a technical explanation on new things before I give it a try Regards,