brianr34

I recently rented a Walther PPQ 4" at the range and I was surprised how nice the trigger was. The gun felt good and was very accurate. Only negative is recoil was more than my Glock 34 or even a Glock 19. Curious on if anyone has feedback on using the PPQ 4" or 5" in IDPA. Seems like the trigger and accuracy would be good, but not sure how quick follow up shots are because of the recoil.

I purchased a G34 Gen3 that I plan on using for IDPA. I plan on buying a Warren Tactical rear sight and a fiber optic front sight. I have a question about the front sight height. The standard height is .215, however I read some info that suggests the G34 should use a .245 for POA=POI at 20 yards. If anyone has experience with this setup for IDPA, I would appreciate feedback on which height to buy. I know IDPA can shoot out to distances of 20 yards, but often it is only around 10 yards. I would prefer to be POA=POI at 10 yards and maybe aim slightly high at 20 yards. If I purchased the .215 tall front sight for my G34, does anyone have an idea at what yardage I would be POA=POI? I am mainly using Blazer 115gr and some WWB 115gr.

I am setting up a G34 Gen3 for IDPA and would like feedback on the Jager Heavy extended guide rod with 14lb Wolff spring. I will primarily be using Blazer Brass 115gr. What difference should I expect to see compared to stock 17lb plastic guide rod? I am thinking the heavier weight in the front and the 14 lb spring will have less muzzle flip. How much more difficult is it to reinstall the guide rod / spring compared to the stock captured unit? If anyone has used the Jager Heavy extended guide rod, I would appreciate your feedback and if you have had any problems.

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the Apex trigger, non-lci bearing and 274 ejector. It is frustrating that I need to do this but I want to get it working properly.

Unfortunately, I tried that already. I gave it a good cleaning and lubed it before I shot it.

I shot my new (test fire date is March '13) G34 Gen3 today. Gun is stock. It is the first Glock I have had with weak extraction. I have read about brass to the face, but never experienced it before today. I was shooting Blazer Brass 115g, which I never had a problem before with Glocks. Probably one third of the cases went almost straight up or just very slightly to the right. 3 out of 50 hit me in the face. I have not purchased a new Gen3 for a few years, so I am looking for some help. I have quite a bit of experience shooting Glocks, so I believe I can rule out limp wristing. I want to start shooting IDPA again and really need to improve the extraction. I was thinking about changing to a 13lb or 15lb recoil spring. I was guessing that would speed up the slide and improve extraction. I believe Glock has had some different type extractors lately, but I am not familiar with the history. I have never had to "break in" a Glock before. Is there a chance it will get better after a couple hundred rounds. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for the info. I would prefer to not draw too much attention and have people asking questions, so it would probably be best if I avoided the threaded barrel.

This is the M&P I was referring to. http://www.jetguns.com/threaded-barrel-wnight-sights-p-3674.html I don't need the threaded barrel, but M&P's are tough to find right now. Just wondering if this would be legal for SSP. Is there a negative with shooting a gun with threaded barrel?

I appreciate the feedback. I am glad to hear it is not really practical to have the gun in line with your strong arm. I thought I was doing something wrong. When I tried this method, it seemed very strange. If possible, I would like to be able to keep my right hand grip during mag changes. The only way I could do this, is to hit the mag release and slide release with my left hand. Do some people use this technique or would it be too slow. My primary concern is sometimes I do not have a great grip when I have to regrip the gun and get it back on target.

Hey Todd. Yes, I will ask him if I can check it out. If you don't mind, could you bring your FS with the Apex sear? Do you use the small backstrap?

Yes it is factory threaded and it would fit in the box. Would that make it legal?

Is it legal to use a threaded barrel in IDPA SSP?

I was reviewing a Todd Jarrett video and he explained that the gun barrel should be inline with your right arm. I find that when I grip my G17, and let my arm hang down, the rear of the gun is pointing in towards my gun. I think the reason I do this, is it makes it a little easier to reach the trigger. How important is it for the gun to be inline with your arm. When I try this, it feels strange. It makes it more difficult for me to reach the trigger. I also have a question about adjusting my grip during mag changes for IDPA. Currently, I use my right thumb to drop the mag and also to drop the slide release. I can not reach these controls, so I have to twist the gun in my hand during this process and then adjust again when getting the gun back on target. Sometimes I notice I do not have the proper grip when getting the gun back on target. How important is it to maintain your grip and do mag changes without any adjustment? In order for me to do this, I will need to hit the mag release and slide release with my left hand. I was trying to practice this and it seems like I could get use to it.

I am considering picking up a M&P Pro 9mm 4.25" to use as a multi-purpose handgun. It would be used for home defense, range and IDPA. I like the idea of night sights for home defense. Since the gun would be used for home defense, I prefer to keep the trigger stock from the factory. Is the stock Pro trigger fairly good for reasonable force and smoothness? Also, how is the trigger reset? I am guessing it will not have the defined reset of a Glock, but I am hoping the reset is OK. I assume the Apex sear would improve the trigger, however I prefer to keep it stock. I generally prefer a black rear sight for IDPA, so the 3 dot night sights may take some adjustment. Has anyone shot their Pro 4.25 with night sights in an IDPA event? If so, how are the sights? Is there decent "daylight" between the front and rear sights. Thanks for any feedback.

I currently have a G17 RTF2 that I use for IDPA. I like the grip texture, but the grip size is kind of large. I have to adjust by grip to hit the mag release and the slide release. (both are extended) I assume it is not a huge deal to have to adjust your grip, but I would prefer not to. Sometimes when I regrip, I notice my grip is not exactly correct. I am considering a G17 Gen4, but I do have some concerns. It sounds like there are more problems with the Gen4, compared to the Gen3. With the newer 02 spring, are there still problems with the Gen4? I mainly used Blazer 115gr Brass and Aluminum. I believe the power factor is 131. I am use to the proven Glock reliability, so I know I would be frustrated if I had issues with the Gen4. Does Jager make a guide rod yet for the Gen4, that is legal for SSP IDPA? Any feedback on users of the Gen4 for IDPA would be appreciated?

I have a G17 RTF2 that I use for IDPA. Based on my medium hand size, I need to adjust my grip when I press the mag release and slide release. I feel I can do the adjustment fairly quickly, but sometimes when I regrip after hitting the slide release, I notice by grip is not exactly right. Just curious, how important is it to be able to maintain one grip, which changing mags and dropping the slide? I have even considered switching to a Gen 4 or maybe a M&P to try and improve this situation.

Yes, the one I saw is the limited production silver slide. Just curious since it is limited production, if it is legal for IDPA. I believe the rule is 2000 has to be made. Since it is only a slide color and nothing is different functionally about the gun, I am guessing it is OK for IDPA.

I recently saw a M&P Pro 9mm 5" with a stainless slide. Apparently it came that way from the factory. I was not aware that Smith & Wesson made any with stainless. Does anyone have experience with the stainless version? How is the finish quality? Would this version be legal for IDPA, since it is a limited production? Also, would the stainless color slide be an issue during shooting, with light reflecting off of the slide?

I would suggest a new G17 RTF2. The RTF2 texture is very good for competition. Since the RTF2 is discontinued, you can find this version for around $450 new.

Thanks for the info. I currently do not reload my ammo. I primarily use Blazer Brass and Aluminum 115gr, so I am not familiar if a reduced power firing pin spring would work OK or not with Blazer. It is tempting to tinker with the Glock since they are easy to work, but I probably should avoid messing around too much. Right now, I am thinking of going with 3.5 connector, 6 lb trigger spring, reduced power safety plunger spring and a 15lb IMSI spring on a Jager captured plastic rod. I feel this gives me a pretty good setup but hopefully will still remain 100% reliable.

I have a G17 RTF2 that I use for IDPA and the range. I have done the following mods: Glock minus connector, 6 lb trigger spring, reduced safety plunger spring and 13 lb IMSI spring on Glock guide rod. I really like the feel of the trigger. Changing the trigger and safety plunger spring has made the trigger smoother and reduced the initial take-up force. The 13 lb spring is also very nice for reduced recoil and quicker follow up shots. I did the slide test of holding the gun vertical with the trigger depressed and the 13 lb spring has no problem going into battery. Even though this is a gamer gun, I want to make sure it is very reliable. That is the main reason I use Glock. What failure would I be likely to have if I stuck with the 13lb spring? Of course I don't want to have a kaboom, so I want to understand any warning signs before that happens. I may just go ahead and buy the Jager plastic captured guide rod and install the 15lb spring. However, since I have felt how nice the 13lb spring is, it is tempting to keep using it.

Which IMSI spring do you use? (13 or 15 lb)

Well, I tried out the 13 lb IMSI spring today. I probably should not have tried it, because it felt really nice compared to the 17 lb stock. It had less recoil and I was able to do double taps quicker. I was not timing, but I know there was a difference. Along with the 13 lb spring, I have a Glock 3.5 connector, 6lb trigger spring and reduced power safety plunger spring. I am using the stock firing pin spring. I also have a 15 lb IMSI spring, but I did not try it today. It is a pain to try and put the spring on an uncaptured guide rod. I did not slide test of holding the gun vertical with the trigger depressed and the 13 lb spring has no problem going into battery. What failure would I be likely to have if I stuck with the 13lb spring? Of course I don't want to have a kaboom, so I wanted to understand any warning signs before that happens. I may just go ahead and buy the Jager plastic captured guide rod and install the 15lb spring. However, since I have felt how nice the 13lb spring is, it is tempting to keep using it. One last question. I see Wolf makes a 14lb spring. Will this spring work OK on a Glock guide rod and/or the Jager plastic captured guide rod?

It sounds like it would be best if I just stuck with the stock 17 lb spring or maybe go down to 15 lb spring if I want to make a change. I am concerned that I will get light primer strikes if I go to a reduced power firing pin spring. I mainly use Blazer Brass and Aluminum 115gr.

I purchased a 13 and 15 lb IMSI recoil springs to try out on my G17. I had an extra stock Glock guide rod, so my plan was to remove the end cap and install one of the IMSI springs. When I tried to remove the cap, the cap broke. Can I just use the rod as a non-captured type? I gave it a try and it seem to work. Of course it is not much fun trying to get the rod/spring back onto the slide. I have not actually shot the gun and was only cycling the slide (with 13lb spring). Is there anything I need to know when using the rod as a non-captured type? Just wanting to make sure a problem will not occur when I fire the gun. I guess my other option is to buy a Jager captured plastic guide rod.