fitmk

ive had this setup on my baer for awhile and i agree it blows the bomar sprung sights away...

Mr Tripp is a great guy to deal with. Nice and down to earth. Easygoing but extremely knowledgeable. I wanted a wider cut for a combat/defensive setup and we are having tooltech put a tritium bar underneath the notch. I wound up getting a wider front sight than I had originally expected and he shipped me a sight with a blank blade on it and told me just to ship the blade back to him when I got my tritium blade in. Furthermore if I wanted it any wider (cut at 0.125) he'd be happy to widen it for me. I am VERY impressed with how solid this thing is. There is a bit of variability in what to expect from a sprung bomar sight with regards to durability on a carry weapon. I think this sight really opens up some options for people that want to make carry weapons out of bomar-cut guns. I know you CAN carry a traditional sprung bomar sight for years and year with no breakage but its pretty easy to agree that the original design is not as durable as a fixed setup. This may not be as durable as a fixed setup but its much much sturdier than a sprung sight.

if one perhaps had a gun with a bomar-style cut and wanted to use it as a carry gun and wanted as low a sight profile as possible would this thing be a reasonable option? the stability/durability would seem to make it a candidate for this type of application. i would prefer a novak cut on the slide but it aint there. can it be lowered far enough to make it work well with a novak-height front sight? thanks!

The rounded bullets do seem to have helped. Ive fired about 60 or 70 of them with no problems. The flatter bullets would have had several FTFs in that amount. Naturally though I would like to fire many more before Im comfortable with it. Thanks all for your time.

well im experimenting with the amount of bell. at first im quite sure that i had too much bell. it would occasionally crack case rims and was just visibly, plainly too much. still it was much less than the 0.020" ive seen quoted in manuals. ive reduced the amount of bell quite a bit to where i can just set the bullet on there and it sits ok. i dont get any shaving or problems during seating. i may need slightly more bell but im experimenting. trying to find that amount where its easier to get one centered. not too much or too little. either way i can pretty much tell when ive got it on there evenly. thanks for the consideration, though...

I certainly will. I appreciate your time.

yes this is the bullet ive been using (not jacketed but plated berrys): i could easily understand how these soft things could be more likely to behave in the manner that you are describing than a harder jacketed bullet. if i load them any shorter than what i am loading them now (1.240") then the cone of the bullet will actually be recessed into the rim of the cartridge. im not sure what the term for that is, but it doesnt seem acceptable. (?) i have some of these ordered: because i had suspected that perhaps what you guys are saying may be the problem. i just dont see how i can safely shorten these any more. if the rounded bullets dont help then ill try jacketed bullets.

it is indeed a dan wesson 10mm rz-10 (1911) the extractor tension seems... 'ok to perhaps mildly loose' per the common 'shake test' with a loaded round in the slide. it barely stays in there when you rotate the slide but falls out sometimes without shaking and usually with very little shaking. i took this pic of it the other day

another thing to note is that the ramp on the razorback is kind of... lumpy. not the smoothest ramp but the failure to feed always make it MOST of the way into the chamber. it locks the slide with the round at about maybe a .... 30 degree? angle to the bore... and about 1/3-1/2 of the way in.

thanks Duane... im gauging them all and they fit the gauge (and they fit the chamber as well... the ones ive hand-checked in the chamber. the only time any of them have failed to fit in the case gauge or chamber is after a mis-feed. since theyve all fit in the gauge im a little wary that my 'better' seating will help much but we will see. ill shorten my OAL next. understood now about setback as well. thx.

thanks Jaxshooter and Rolex. i will try that as well since i have a few of these bullets left. im loading them 1.245" so i felt like that was relatively moderate but ill try that as well. i did what Dillon suggested and they seem to be seating much straighter now. ill find out if that help with feeding here in a little bit...

you know what, Dillon?? i WAS indeed having some problems with the powder funnel being slightly offset from the case i think ive corrected it but it one time it was off... where some cases would actually bump it and not go up around it. most would though, and it appears that perhaps it was maybe even belling the cases at an angle?

im using the 550B i will def do this as youve described to make sure ive got them tightened in line... thanks! ...and thanks everyone else for the tips and passed-down experience! the bullets all work in the case gauge and i THINK they would all fit fine in the chamber when initially loaded. i suspect that the bullets are feeding poorly due to the steep ramp in the DW rz-10 and the flat nose on the bullet. when they fail to feed properly they get rammed pretty hard when stuck half-way in the chamber and when this happens they bulge around the bullet in the brass gets accentuated quite a bit. the round gets more or less warped. then they DONT fit well in the chamber OR the gauge.

im relatively inexperienced and have been having a little bit of trouble with loading berrys CP 180gr bullets in 10mm. when loaded there is a little bit of a bulge around the bullet in the case. (starline brass). some are better than others. they ALL fit easily in a dillon 10mm case gauge. some of them wont properly feed in my DW 10mm RZ-10. ive considered that this bullet could perhaps just not gel well with this handgun. but looking at the loaded rounds i can see the outline of the bullet in the round. this is much more pronounced on rounds that fail to load and i remove and discard. actually i save them but i take them out of circulation naturally. at first im quite sure that i was less careful at getting the bullet properly oriented on top of the bell. some were sitting up there a bit sloppy when they went into the seating die. being more careful to get them more properly positioned seems to help. i suspect that the bulges are due to the bullet not being seated evenly as the bulges dont seem to go all the way around the round evenly. someone working at a local gun shop suggested to me that i should just remove the decapper and run the rounds back through the sizing die. i didnt like this answer primarily because i would quite obviously prefer to correct the problem. secondly because it just didnt sound like something that was reasonable to do to me. but again i dunno. im wondering if i just havent found the sweet spot with my bell. its less than the 0.020" ive seen in manuals, but it may still be too wide. does anybody reading this have any idea or comment about what you would try?? thanks very much. i will likely try a rounder bullet next bullet-buy. these are the only bullets ive yet to load.

ok after shooting a couple hundred rounds of unique-loaded rounds thru my razorback i can totally see what you guys mean. ive never had a weapon get so filthy with only a couple hundred rounds in one trip. would anyone recommend a good clean moderate powder (ball?) for me to try with plated bullets like berrys or rainers? (10mm rounds) thanks everyone for your time and thoughts. EDIT: freakshow THATS what i was afraid of. that very concept. it seems like i have to keep tightening it back in. im going to mark the bolt and see if its turning. thanks.