Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Rynnäkökivääri 62

Classified
  • Posts

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Rynnäkökivääri 62

  1. I am not soured on Dillon yet by any means. I have high hopes for this reloading setup, it's just that it's been plagued by delays since day one. Thanks mostly to the local dealer making offers and estimates they could not keep. I was supposed to have gotten it in March/April. Now I need to keep waiting for a spare to come. The waiting, oh the constant waiting...

    I tried loading a few more rounds and indexing the primer manually now that it won't reset anymore and I got 5 rounds this way but I had the same issue, a primer just refused to seat itself and then it got tilted it looked like. From what I've read this might be due to a burr somewhere on the indexing plate. Gonna see about lightly polishing it and see how that turns out.

  2. Got my Dillon 650 package last night, after a very, very long wait. And even then they had forgot my case feeder and the improved lever. Still I set out at once to install it in my tiny reloading space. I used to have a lee and it looked like this:

    20q1hg2.jpg

    Taken a year ago or so, now it has decidedly blue shifted:

    2lxz7kg.jpg

    Anyway what happened last night after I had gotten the settings adjusted (and that is a pain, I want one of those micrometer things now) I started reloading and after 5 rounds of so there was resistance on the upstroke (as in, the case head assembly wants to travel down) and before I could stop a spring flew in my face and a small metal bit:

    2rxe2at.jpg

    Looking at the few rounds I had managed to make, their primers where all very badly seated and sticking out, I was pretty sure I moved the lever all the way in order to prime the cases properly, maybe I failed to do that? I don't really understand why this piece broke off on the upstroke, a jammed primer in the primer ring preventing it from cycling perhaps?

  3. I have just ordered the 024026 sight set myself for my glock 17. I want the tall sights because I plan to use them with a suppressor. I have only an old leather holster for my Glock 17 so maybe if that no longer works with the new combo I should consider a new holster as well.

  4. I have the BTR1 reticule also and the bullet strikes at the same drops as Trapr's post on page 2. I zeroed at 200Y with 77gr SMKs so my drops were 200y, 350y, 450y, 550y and 625y. I have verified this out to 400Y on 10-14" MGM flashers.

    I just posted some video of the scope on my channel so if anyone wants to see what the scope offers, check it out.

    http://youtube.com/SuperSetCA

    Sorry, I don't know how to embed it here.

    Do you feel the tight eyebox to be a serious problem with this scope or is it not important?

  5. Dang! Was gonna order one from Graf & Sons this morning and its outta stock. Should have ordered last night but I wanted to see if I needed todo anything special as it was an international order... Ack! This was going to be my first scope as well, been waiting & researching my options since last summer.

    I have no mount for mine but I can forget about Larue, anyone use the pepr mounts?

  6. Well SWFA claims us foreigners are untrustworthy and scam them too much so we can't buy from them. So I guess Bushnell or Leupold will get my money... maybe?!?!? Who knows I'm shifty foreign devil with monopoly money (euros).

  7. Lead bullets can be more finnicky and if you cast your own like I do, it can be a lot more work depending on your gun and such. But I can get nearly cost-free bullets now. Digging the lead back out of the berm, reusing my cases and scrounging for free ones on the range, etc etc, I can shoot .45ACP for the same cost as .22lr...

    Accuracy wise they are as accurate as jacketed and I get higher speeds at lower pressures being able to produce large amounts of H&G #68 SWCHP bullets for cheap is great. It does smoke more (I make my own lube) but I shoot outside 100% of the time. I use vihtavuori powders too which burn very clean.

    I am even planning to try cast in my AR, waiting for a .22 NATO specific mold from a cast boolits group buy.

  8. Like the thread topic says, I own an AR-15 with a 16" barrel that has a 5.56 NATO chamber, it's a Bushmaster 1:9" twist barrel if that matters. I am gearing up to reload .223 and I have been looking at the differences between .223 and 5.56 and from what I can tell it's really just the throat that is the one consistent difference.

    So what should I do to get the best performance out of my AR when reloading? I am guessing using heavier bullets (62- 69 grains?) and seating to the max OAL that the magazines will permit? I understand I want the bullet to be as long as possible to better fill the "sloppier" throat of the NATO chamber, are there maybe different profiles that are better suited as well?

  9. Okay I've been looking around this forum for the best way of trimming/prepping 223 brass and it seems that a separate toolhead for the 650 press equipped with the required tools seems like the optimal setup for most serious 223 shooters, but it's a bit expensive for me right now so I am looking for budget options.

    I don't even own a 650 yet but it's my top priority for this year, primarily I intend to reload pistol ammo to begin with. I got three pistol calibers I want to get running first (9mm, 45acp and 44mag), but I am a guy that takes the long view and 223 will be reloaded eventually. I have been scrounging 223 brass for some time already and I wouldn't mind starting on it already.

    I've been thinking maybe a Lee handpress and universal decapper for decapping all the dies (or should I use a dedicated 223 die that resizes too?), then some kind of trimmer and flash hole deburring tool. I am thinking of getting an ultrasonic for cleaning brass as well as my guns so I guess that takes care of the cleaning.

    Do you guys have any suggestions on cheaper tools I could use, what do you use yourselves?

  10. On optics mounts, what do people feel about the Nightforce unimount, both models are slightly lower and I notice that when I shoot using irons I naturally tend to fall a bit lower than the sights, so I gotta compensate upwards. So I was considering a lower scope mount (once I get a scope I will probably sell my irons).

    The 1.125" model looks real interesting, the lower mount height is also visually appealling, here's one with a 2.5-10x32 Nightforce:

    http://i53.tinypic.com/2hoif61.jpg

  11. My question is simply this, if I get a 650, can I then buy the case feeder and then just get extra plates later for other calibers?

    Like say I get it for 9mm (small pistol) to start with, then I get a plate for 45ACP and 44mag (large pistol) and then another one for 223rem (small rifle) later, can I then use the same case feeder for all four calibers by just swapping the plates as needed while changing over my press to another caliber?

    Or must I get a separate case feeder for small pistol, one for large pistol, small rifle etc? Looking at Dillons site it seems the former is most likely true but it's not explicitly stated and I know there are lots of finnicky stuff here I might be overlooking that would make the latter situation true... I just wanted to be 110% on this.

  12. They have to come out with a better reticle and make sure the illumination is daytime bright (not just visible), or come way down in price.

    What would be a suitable reticle for this type of shooting? Horseshoe? What about the reticle selection from the VX-R 1.2-4x?

  13. Hmm, not much more I can add to the topic name really. I've seen it for sale on multiple websites now, going from older threads on this forum it didn't use to have illumination but the ones on sale now does. The scope looks like it could work really well for 3-gun and it's very nicely priced too, the reticle selection could've been better but I guess a german #4 could work quite nicely.

    I've not seen any reviews so far on this scope and I am very curious about it.

  14. Looking to starting loading my own slugs, I already cast and reload so adding another mold for slugs would be the easiest way to go. Now I'm wondering about whether I should go with a .690 round ball in a shot cup, or the foster style drive key from Lee?

    The round slug looks like it has some accuracy potential if used right, so does the drive key I suppose. I was mostly wondering about the round balls being used on steel targets, might they be too hard on poppers and other metal targets, compared to a foster type slug? Just something I started thinking about, a sphere is hard to deform after all.

    Also anyone reload slugs using vihtavuori? Hard to find load data and the loading of shotshells seems to be quite different from metallic reloading, some say you can put a slug in a load meant for shot and go from there, others say you can't.

×
×
  • Create New...