Wayne Dobbs
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Posts posted by Wayne Dobbs
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I am going to take the leap and shoot my first BC in 2010 and wanted you guys' ideas and opinions about what would be the most competitive production pistol for this. I've been a long time Glock shooter and competitor but will consider just about anything.
What say you?
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124 grain Precision Delta JHP
4.0 Tite Group
WSP
1.125" OAL
(groups 10 shots into 2.0-2.5 inches at 25 from two of my Glock 17s)
124 FMJ
4.5 WW231 or HP38
WSP
1.125 - 1.13" OAL
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is there any data to support or reject that a two pin is less accurate/reliable than a 3 pin Glock, or is it more of an academic discussion?
I don't know of any objective testing data or results in that regard. I have been shooting the platform for 20 years and it SEEMS to me like the three pin 9mm guns shoot tighter groups. That's based on my experience alone with about half a dozen three pins and is nowhere near enough information to flatly state it as fact. It would be an interesting study project for somebody with more time and money than I have!
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I am reloading with 115 gr RN 9mm and used brass on a Dillon SDB press.
I don't have a clue how much crimp I should apply? I do have a digital caliper to check.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
My suggestion would be to adjust your taper crimp die until the case mouth edge measures .379" and then lock the ring and get to work. This dimension has always worked very well for me in a variety of 9mm pistols.
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I'm like lots of other 550 users in that I'm happy with my loader and not so with the priming system. The ONLY issues I've ever had with the press ove many years has been that assembly. I would be a happy beta tester or customer, assuming solid performance and a semi-reasonable price.
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Try 4.5 231 and an OAL of 1.12". This has worked well for me with the Precision Delta 124 JHP in my Glock 17s. The XTP has a very similar profile and bearing surface length.
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I've broken a couple of those pins in a G22 and a G27. The pistols still ran fine with the broken pins though!
Just change them out and check all parts on a regular basis.
I know what you mean. I was carrying and shooting a G22 that had a broken locking block. I was doing a detail strip and the block came out in two pieces and it was clear it had been that way for a while. Dropped in a new one and drove on. At this point, however, I won't own another one (G22/23) as they are a pair of parts breakers and that bothers me for a duty/carry gun. All the .40s are gone and have been replaced with 9mm Glocks.
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thanks roy... I'll try them out,
there's a deal over at ar15.com on them right now if anyone is interested
Can you post the link, please?
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Keep a fresh recoil spring assembly in your G22. While this gun is super popular, it's really showing some serious durability issues in some instances. I would go no longer than 5K rounds before you change it out. Replacing all the pins and springs at regular intervals is probably a very good idea. I've seen several broken locking blocks in LE guns along with the pin problems you describe.
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Get a 1050 and your problem is solved.
Is this a serious comment? (I am new to reloading and just wanting to know more)
I believe he said that because a 1050 swages primer pockets as one of its steps, therefore eliminating the issue.
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It really won't matter too much in LFI-1 as the shooting is VERY basic. The course is mainly what you do in the classroom so keep all that in mind. If you want something fairly close to a carry load, try 5.0 231 with a 115 FMJ. That will give you some snap if that's what you desire.
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Has anyone shot these into jugs of water to test expansion?
Haven't water tested them as I bought them for precision type bullets. I do note that the nose of the jacketed HP area is skived all around so they may expand, although how reliably is sure up in the air. They shoot very well over both 4.5 231 and 4.0 TG at 1.12"
Wayne
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I like W231, 147gr Berrys, 1.130" COL, WSP. I use it with my G34 with 13lb recoil spring. I've tried Bulleye and Titegroup too. Power Pistol is great powder if you a looking for lots of recoil and flash. Not even in the same catergory as some of the other faster powders.
Lugnut,
What charge are you using with 231?
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During a Tactical Pistol Instructor course a couple of months ago, I had three rounds of WWWB 115 that didn't fire on the first strike. This was with a stock G17 with a clean FP channel. I fired about 1300 rounds during the six days of the class and also witnessed at least two other failures to fire with WWWB in another pair of stock Glocks. I think that the QC/QA may be taking a hit due to higher production demands at WW.
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It makes 130 in my M&P 9 4"
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The Winchester White Box .38 Special loads have used a 130 grain flat point bullet for at least a couple of years now. At least all the 1500-1800 rounds I've bought at Wally World during that time have been flat pointed.
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Unfortunately, I got a whole boat load, 2,000 since it was a great deal. Should of stick to 55 gr. and 77 gr.
!If you decide to sell them for an equally "good deal" let me know. I don't shoot much past 100 yards and am always looking for good deals on .223 bullets.
WD
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The DEA FTU had a video years ago called "Sight Alignment" that was seven minutes long and that used Jerry Barnhart's technique of videoing the gun's sights during shot delivery. The front sight focus was shown (properly and improperly) and several of the most common shooter errors were shown and the results. It was a real eye opener for lots of those basic police academy students.
For a quick on the line helper, I used a quick verbal reminder: "Equal height, equal light" (meaning equal height of the sight top surfaces and equal light around the front sight as viewed through the rear).
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I've found that all my Glocks run really well when I don't mess with them...
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The 1:16 twist rate is easier on cast bullets also, allowing them to engage the rifling with less chance of skidding in the transition from the throat to the bore. Smith and Wesson used that twist rate for years in their 9mm service pistols, although I don't know if they still do.
JoeD: Can you tell us what load you're using with that 147 grain bullet that's grouping so well, please?
Wayne
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I reshape a ball point pen spring. It's nice and soft and works fine.
That sounds like something my Iraqi Police guys would do!
The best ones for this are the old pre-upgrade FPS springs if you can find them somewhere. They work great for the purpose.
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Wolff Gunsprings sells a reduced power firing pin safety spring. If you're going to do this, make sure and keep that plunger and recess clean as it gets really dirty in high volume firing and the spring may start having too much crud to move the plunger through to keep the safety working.
See this link for the part. Wolff calls them (incorrectly) "striker block safety springs".
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jspruance,
Some further thoughts on your Glock's extraction (and some ejection?) problems:
1. What kind of ammo are you shooting? If reloaded/reman ammo, is it loaded full power in new brass?
2. Is the chamber clean? A dirty chamber will slow the extraction of a fired case, especially if the answer to #1 is that you're shooting Cousin Bubba's reloads...
3. Are you running an extra power recoil spring? Flexmoney didn't say it, but overpowered recoil springs can slow down the functioning rate during the unlocking and extraction/ejection cycle.
4. Regarding your ejection of fired cases, are your magazine springs good...or a bit worn? Glocks appear to need good magazine spring tension to reliably eject fired cases. If you don't believe that, go out and shoot some rounds without the magazine in the gun (load from the magazine and then remove it). The fired cases will eject down the magazine well...
5. Flexmoney mentioned making sure the extractor depressor spring/plunger/bearing assembly are in the gun correctly (metal end to the extractor body and the plastic bearing against the slide cover plate)...make sure of this or the extractor will fail (and pop out the side of the slide) during firing.
Let us know how your "detective work" goes...
Wayne
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And make sure that the spring loaded bearing (AKA "The Little Plastic Part") is the correct one for your extractor. The parts are different for the original extractor and the new loaded chamber indicator (LCI) parts. And like was already stated, make sure the channel that the extractor rides in is clean and dry...
!
Best Production Autopistol?
in NRA - Bianchi Cup
Posted
The G-34 is certainly one of my contenders, but while this may be sacrilege, I haven't seen too many Glocks that group very well at 50 yards. I'm not an accuracy snob and don't expect Open gun performance from a service pistol, but I would like to have a gun that will stay well inside of 4" at 50 and that's fairly difficult in my experience.