GunslingerDK
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Posts posted by GunslingerDK
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I'm an IPSC shooter and would like some info on which class I am. I have never shot a classifier, we don't really do that in Denmark. I have shot a total of 7 matches averaging 69% - the highest being 73.5% and the lowest being 57.2%. My Bill Drill times are in the 2.40sec area - zero down. My El Prez times are about 6.5sec with 1 or 2 C's. Can someone give me a ball park figure as to which class I am
?And sorry for the "hijack"
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I have been shooting IPSC for little over a year now. Last saturday I went to Höppner & Schumann Cup in Güstow, Germany. It was my first Level 3 match, so I was a little nervous. Despite the fact that I missed one target completely on one stage, and had 5 mikes and 5 Deltas total, I still managed to shoot 70% which placed me 10th out of 47 shooters in the Standard division.
Honestly I am actually pretty satisfied with that. I only have seven level 2 and one level 3 match under my belt. With that in mind I think I did pretty well
Most importantly I know where my weak spots are, and I will address these during my practice.
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I have the short one and love it. I'm a glove-size 8.5-9
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I started shooting IPSC 1 year ago. I only have 6 matches (level 2) under my belt. Since I started IPSC I have shot an average of 500 rounds a week. Since January I have doubled that. I have become faster and more accurate. My follow-up shots have improved not to mention sight tracking and gun/recoil control. I cast my own bullets so cost isn't that much for me. 1000 rounds cost me around $45
Personally I think that I have reached a level, where time could be better spent dry-firing and practicing shooting on the move in the living room armed with a bottle half way filled with water. I just need to start doing it. God I love shooting 300-400 rounds each session for 3 sessions a week
. I think what separates IPSC/USPSA with most other styles is that the targets must be engaged with 2 shots. That makes it an entirely different ball game!!! I often set up three targets at 8 yards and just draw engage all with 2 shots for 200 rounds. I do them in about 3 sec. all A's. Again, I think when your SHOOTING capabilities have reached a (for you) certain level, you have to look at other things as well.... otherwise you shooting faster isn't going to help all that much. Something that have also contributed a great deal is this forum. From reading many many threads I've have learned which areas are important to work at and which drills are good for these areas. I have read many many thingsthat that I never would have come up with by myself. Great place indeed.
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Yes, the spings have different loads weights.
I have no doubt the one in your gun works.... each spring will "work". But, if you have too heavy a spring, say 12lbs for minor loads, the actions closes quite heavily and can cause the muzzle to tip making follow up shots slower!
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Nicely caught there
Gun is a small frame -
And finally it's my turn. The gun recently went through a totalt rebuild.
Limited 9mm
Original grips, sanded down and with grip tape
Henning trigger
Henning mag well
Henning firing pin
Huening rolling trigger bar plunger
EGW hammer
EGW sear
Henning custom hammer and sear pins
Custom slide cuts
When it comes to the internal parts I must say Hennings stuff is top of the line. Before the gun went to the smith, upon engaging the trigger without the hammer being cocked, you could see the sear and sear housing jiggle quite a bit sideways.... now it just SITS there. And the trigger pull? Amazing. No sideways jiggle of the trigger either.
Optically I'm particularly fond of the slide cuts. They are done by a friend of mine who has a machine shop. Originally I just wanted square cuts. He then suggested we make the cuts to match the front serrations... and I really think the result is amazing!!
Edit: sorry the pictures are so huge.
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I shoot limited and use a Höppner und Schumann Speedsec 5. I can't imagine the gun being any easier to draw. In the beginning it jammed, but I think I was the problem. After having to teach a newbie to draw I noticed how she had problems because she tilted the gun sideways when drawing. I must have made the same mistake myself....
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I recently had my slide lightened. I like the way it feels. It comes down to target much quicker than before, and the gun cycles faster. Plus, it looks awesome.
If I had the chance I would not hesitate doing it again!
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How many cartridges do you make in an average loading session? 500-1000
How many cartridges do you make in an average week? During winter I only load about 300 a month. During summer 500-1500 each week.
Which press do you use? XL650
How many cartridges can you load in an hour? 400-500
How long is your average loading session? 2-3 hours
Knowing what you know now if your reloading equipment was lost or stolen what would you buy today? XL650
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Mine does the same.... or did! I use blue locktite. It works.
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Thank you, CHA-LEE... now I have something to go on.
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Yes, and I know that Henning has done some refitting to these parts to allow for easier installment. But what I am interested in is finding out if there has been done any polishing to make the trigger pull smoother?!
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I just bought these parts from Henning, and wonder what is the difference between the original EGW hammer & sear and the ones offered by Henning? I want the trigger as good and smooth as can be, and just want to know what to tell the gunsmith that is going to install the parts. Has Henning done a trigger job on these parts, or is there room for further polishing?
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Does your Witness have a Polygonal rifling in the barrel? If it does then it is well known that Lead and Polygonal barrels don't mix well. When you shoot lead through Polygonal barrels they lead fowl very quickly. Sure you can shoot lead through them but you will spend more time scrubbing the lead out than shooting it.
Actually one of the benefits of polyganol rifling is said to be less build up of copper and lead fowling. There are different opinions on the subject. When talking about lead bullets I think it is important to distinguish between lead fowling and leading. The latter being where the lead build up is so severe that it effects accuracy and takes a lot of scrubbing to get out.
I haven't shot a jacketed bullet through my limited for the past 3 years. When the gun is clean and you shoot 50 rounds and inspect the bore, it does admittedly look leaded. BUT, the amount of lead doesn't seem to increase with the number of rounds. After 1200 rounds the barrel doesn't look worse nor has accuracy degraded. In my world that is lead fowling and not leading
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I soak my brass in boiling water, citric acid and a little detergent for 30 minutes and then rinse with cold water. Comes out very clean. I then tumble for a few hours with corn cob and dillon polish. However the tumbling part is really not necessary, it just gives a final bling effect. Plus you don't have to worry about lead dust as you do when you throw dirty brass into a tumbler.....
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I'm pretty sure the Tanfoglio's are hard chromed carbon steel, not stainless
Does that make any difference when it comes to cutting into the steel? Is it harder than SS?
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I'm having a friend cut the slide on my Eaa Limited, he's is very skilled so I'm sure it's gonna be amazing. The slide is stainless steel. Do we need to re-finish the slide in any way? And if yes, should the entire slide be done or only where the slots are?
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Pre-Travel as far as I know is just that pre-travel some like more then others I like some....crisp is just after the pre-travel...a crisp trigger will happen quickly once the pre travel is done...when it's not crisp and that happen with time on crisp trigger, it feel like it's dragging and just not happening.
As far as light trigger....accidental discharge doesn't happen because the trigger is light but because the shooter finger in on the trigger..a BIG no-no as far as I'm concerned for either experience or new shooter. So new shooter with light trigger is OK as long as they control their finger properly, because AD always happen to the same guy
I believe I get it know
And I won't ask how you know AD's alway happen to the same guy
One last thing. The EGW hammer & sear are they the same for both small and large frame or do you have to order accordingly?
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1. I shoot IPSC and not much else since I started!
2. I don't either. I recall him mentioning that he would start designing his own hammer and sear. I would prefer Hennings over the EGW any day... anyone knows when he plan on having the parts ready for sale??
3. No, not really... I just think a lighter trigger will help my accuracy. What is the definition of a "crisp" trigger?! When translation crips into danish I arrive at an entirely other place!
The gun is a Limited Custom. I run Hennings xl firing pin, sprinco buffer and 8lbs wolff spring. The sights are stock, but outlined with red stripes. Maybe I'd be better of with Hennings front sight??
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I'm looking to make my stock gun into a race gun! I'm getting Hennings trigger and magwell (already have the xl firing pin). In regards to hammer and sear I don't know which options there are! The EGW sounds nice I would just like an alternative. I'm looking for a sub 1.5lbs trigger pull. I believe Extreme Engineering makes some descent parts, but do they have parts for Tanfoglio or is it only for 1911/2011?? Are there other manufacturers of Tanfoglio after market parts??
I'm sure there are other internal parts that can be swapped. But what are they, and what do they do??? Since I'm already getting all the other parts, I see no reason not to go all in and upgrade as much as I can.
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You will have to move a lot of material to get to the .44 size. The chamber reamer is for final finishing. You don't want to try to hog out all that metal in one shot with the chamber reamer. The best approach would be to set up the cylinder in the mill, holding it in precision v blocks in the vise or in a lathe chuck bolted to the table. Use the indicator to make sure that the cylinder is exactly vertical before doing any cutting. Indicate each chamber with a dial test indicator (you can use a mirror to see the face of the indicator when it's facing away from you). Then use a boring head to bore out the .44 part a few thou. under what the reamer will cut and a little short of where the shoulder will be. Then go in with the chamber reamer, turning by hand, using plenty of cutting oil and clearing the chips often. If you don't clear out the chips often enough, you will get rough spots in the chamber where the chips got packed in and scratched it. Depending on how the reamer is ground, it may be a good idea to make a collar with a setscrew to go on the reamer to get the same depth for each chamber.
Thank you very much, this was exactly what I was looking for! Now I know a little more about the whole thing, and can pass it along to the guy who's doing the conversion.... when I find him that is.
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I know this forum is mostly for automatics, but i hope there is a gunsmith here who can give me a few tips.
I looking to convert my 9mm Ruger Blackhawk cylinder to a .357/44 Bain & Davis. I have the reamer but my problem is that I can't find a gunsmith to do the job. The 2 best in the country don't have time, and the 3rd best refuses to do it, and then there is a few that I don't trust... so my list of possibles grows thin.
I know 2 guys who have a company, one is a very skilled machinest and the other is a gunsmith. I think I managed to pursuade them to do the conversion. But I would like to know a little more about the procedure. It took me a year and a half to find a reamer, and had to pay $400 for it in Germany (no US conpany would sell/rent me one). I talked to another guy (yes I have talked to half the country during the last 12 months) he said that the chambers need to be pre-drilled and that the reamer only polished the chambers to the final fit. From looking at the reamer I just assumed that it is used to drill the cylinders, and not just for the final finishing, as the "steps" on the reamer seem to correspond to the shoulder angles on the Bain & Davis brass.
So basically I'm looking for some info on the actual conversion, so i know a little about what has to be done. This is just my paraniod way of ensuring that my reamer is used correctly. When looking at the cylinder and the reamer, it seems like a walk in the park, but then again i'm not a gunsmith and I do not know to which tolerances the cylinder must be made in order to avoid set back issues.
Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!!
Edit: I live in Denmark, hence the limited number of gunsmiths!
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Sure the conversion took time but was fairly easy, especially due to your blueprint. I did not cut any coils of the spring though, but the magazine works flawlessly anyways
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. I think what separates IPSC/USPSA with most other styles is that the targets must be engaged with 2 shots. That makes it an entirely different ball game!!! I often set up three targets at 8 yards and just draw engage all with 2 shots for 200 rounds. I do them in about 3 sec. all A's. Again, I think when your SHOOTING capabilities have reached a (for you) certain level, you have to look at other things as well.... otherwise you shooting faster isn't going to help all that much. 
Gun is a small frame
Who wants to race me to A class?
in Training Techniques
Posted
Thanks for the feedback... I feel a little cool now
. Admittedly I have been taking my shooting very serious this last one and a half years. I guess access to a small but always vacant range and truckloads of ammo does pay off.
Does anyone have a sketch over the classified
? That way I would know for sure. I know it won't be official, but that doesn't matter to me. I just want to know where I am compared to the best in the world.