[xl650 casefeeder jam]

Even with the small casefeeder plate I also see this one, very occasionally, in 9mm. I'm can't think of any sort of preventive maintenance for it. In any event it's no big deal: just reach up with your index finger and pop the casing up and out of the way, things free up.

Sure, that is why I called it minor issue... but usually I only notice it when the handle suddenly feels too soft.

[xl650 casefeeder jam]

These seem to be randomly spread. I never had this problem happen with the .40's, even though I load tons of them, but it surely happened on another press with 9mm, and also with the 38 Super.

There is another minor problem I sometimes see - a shell does not drop, but stays in the slot and then gets jammed against the side of the feeder, stopping the machine cold.

What can be done about this one? This has definitely happen more than once with the .40's, using small plate. Going to large plate?

And... speaking of minor issues... there is pretty high number of upside down cases of 38 Super - I NEVER see that with other calibers.

What can be done to improve that situation?

[Dillon ammo boxes: No longer translucent?]

I also strongly dislike the new boxes, and told so to the company... not that it matters much... of dozens of old boxes that I have I only have one with broken corner, no defective hinges, and I definitely love to see the ammo inside.

I returned my first order of solid ones, and will not be ordering more.

So I have been buying old ones on ebay. You pay a bit more, but you get what works for you.

[xl650 without casefeeder question]

While all three of my 650's have case feeders, one can have a less expensive solution by adopting the Lee Load Master colander to the top of the tube. It actually works amazingly well, but you need an additional support - the tube alone will be too flimsy.

[Blown Primers in a Super 1050]

Sure. I and others have found that Dillon decap pins have a little "Flat" on the bottom. On tight primer pocket brass, as Speer, instead of the spent primer popping off the decap pin when it gets punched out of the spent case, it can stick to the decap pin and get sucked back in a little bit into the case. This jams up the works.....

By just beveling the pin end a little bit, knocking the edge off, it alleviated this.

Hope this helps!

DougC

This is not unique to Dillon dies, I had it happen on other brands of dies. Redding, Lyman, etc.

[Did a cool fix to my roller handle and wanted to share]

I wonder why Dillon doesn't do that with all the presses?

As much as I love Dillon, they are not without issues. To rely on a nut tightness to prevent part rotation - this is totally inexcusable for any, even inexperienced, designer... it is so bad I can't believe they still do it this way. There are many ways the rotation can be stopped, most of them quite inexpensive.

I would warn, however, about tapping the set screw hole in the existing part. While on the 1050 the shaft is made of steel, the cast part on the 650 is not ideal for such a solution, not without beefing it up first.

I would check the lock washer solutions first... what some folks did with modifying their washers is basically the same idea... for the life of me I can't figure out why the company would not include a 5 cent split washer on a $500 machine...

[have you used these powders?]

I love Universal, use it a lot, in both 9mm and .40. In .40 you easily meet the Major PF, or you can down load it to Minor, it is consistent and clean.

[I have a Dillon 650 with a KISS Bullet Feeder]

If all is going well I can get 1000 or maybe a bit more rounds per our out of my 650 loading at a responsible pace. Still there is usually something causing stoppages that slows me down, and I’m sure my neighbors hear me swear. I reload in pretty high volume so would a 1050 with a bullet feeder speed me up enough to be worth it? Will it jam up less, crunch less cases, etc? Thanks.

It will give you much more trouble, more jams that are actually harder to recover from, and more fatigue, as it requires substantially higher force to operate. I have three 650's and one Super 1050, and neither 650 ever exhibited the level of problems I have seen in the 1050. Plus the 1050 clunks ugly when you pull the handle up - extremely disappointing in a machine of that price category. Response from Dillon - the usual "they all do it!". Well, they shouldn't.

Priming on down stroke is nice, but when it jams, it is incredibly hard to recover. And jam it does from time to time.

Using the 650 by comparison is extremely easy, and virtually flawless. It is also pretty much noiseless, while the 1050 ratchets and clunks along loudly.

I bought the 1050 because I love machinery, but I do not recommend it to most people. If I were you, I would buy two more 650's, so you would not have to change calibers.

[Help please - Brass Tilt, Super 1050, Super Comp, ugh.]

Folks-

Have a new Super 1050 wand got all to work sweet EXCEPT for every 8-10 rounds brass is either (1) jamming the shell plate when fed in or (2) fed on top of the shell plate. Starline NEW (never fired) brass. Unlubed.

Seems to have Dillon baffled. Ive replaced virtually every part including the shell plate (#3). Ive adjusted the shell plate up and down in lots of positions and cant seem to make it go away.

Im sure one of you brave souls have dealt with this.

Thank you,

Jay

I had the same issue with new Super 1050 last month... they told me it will get better as the plate "breaks in"... well, after hundreds of rounds it did... now it is pretty much trouble-free.