Classic_jon
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Posts posted by Classic_jon
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I just picked up a used 686 with all the goodies to shoot SSR and am looking for a good load to use.
I have looked around with the search and had not been able to find where anyone had used N320 for IDPA .38 special SSR loads at the new lower power factor. I have some 158gr RN plated bullets so making power factor should not be too difficult.
I would appreciate any suggestions!
P.S.
I am actually enjoying shooting a revolver
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In IDPA, you can't shoot an XDm 5.25 in CDP.
I agree that for the purposes that the poster states he is going to use it for that .40 is the most versatile and that for Minor and 3gun that 9mm is the way to go and will be cheaper in the long run.
Related question:
Out of curiosity, Why couldn't you shoot a 5.25 .45 in IDPA CDP? I know a couple of people that have shot them in sanctioned matches with no problems. All they do is download to the CDP rule of 8+1.
In the IDPA rulebook they state "Handguns permitted for use in this division must:
A. Be semi-automatic.
B. Be .45 ACP caliber...."
and
"High capacity pistols can be used as long as the pistol meets ALL
division criteria." (I.E. download to 8+1)
Seriously, am I missing some reason that an XDm 5.25 in .45 would be disqualified from CDP per the IDPA rules?
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Take a look at https://www.parker.edu/Welcome_to_Parker_University.aspx
They are in the Dallas, Tx area
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Another vote for N320 here. I use it in both my .40 and 9mm.
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The Classifier is a "basic skills test" It is not meant to "simulate common stages."
I know a bunch of people that can shoot very fast and accurately up close but flat out fall apart at longer ranges or shooting with their off hand. Unless someone purposefully slows down to not go up a classification, the classifier is generally pretty accurate representation of your overall shooting ability.
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I will second what CocoBolo said about running a magnet across the brass before using it.
I bought a 150lb pull magnet from the discount store for about 15.00 and it has been one of the best investments I have made in reloading safely. There are some manufacturers that coat their steel in brass or copper and you really can not tell easily by eyeball.
Past that, there is a lot of good information being given in this thread on power factor and crimp. Good luck and safe reloading!
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I have to agree with Carmony. If you can get a part time job at a range etc that will help to pay for your ammo, that would be my first choice.
I like to reload my own 3-gun Rifle ammo for one reason, it tends to be more accurate in my gun than factory.
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How much powder to order ?
As much as you can afford to save money on Hazmat and shipping.
Exactly this. Unless I am trying out a new powder, don't order in quantities less than 4lbs.
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If your friend had an Address book then it may not have come from you.
When you clicked on the link, it told them that your e-mail address was a valid e-mail and then they take that information and run with it.
What a lot of Spammers are doing is putting your e-mail address that they got from your friends address book in the "reply to" address of the e-mail. If I wanted to I could put spam@spamer.com as the reply to address on my mail client at work and it would send the e-mail out with that as the reply to address. It is not that hard to do with the way e-mail is set up right now. This is why a lot of people are pushing for the "rules" on e-mail to be changed. The system and methods as they sit right now were never really designed to deal with Spammers.
The only way to find out if it is "you" is to have someone that knows computers, and what to look for, look in the e-mail "header." The Header will tell you what e-mail server and potentially what e-mail address it is coming from for real. As an example, At my office my mail server gets Spam from 50 different "reply to" addresses all over the united states, but when you look at the headers, it all is coming from one spammer server in Argentina.
I know you are probably gun-shy about links right now but, for more information on E-mail headers http://whatismyipaddress.com/email-header
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On my XD .40 I basically clean the striker, wave some oil in it's general direction, and then put it back in almost bone dry.
That being said, some of the trigger kits come with very soft striker springs so if the striker spring has been swapped out and the striker has been lubed, then it increases the chance of a light strike.
I would also say to take a look in the striker channel for any grunge. I recently cleaned my XD after shooting some *very* dirty bullets, and when I detail stripped it and looked in the striker channel, the front of the channel had a layer of grime and grunge in it that I had to use a scraper pick and quite a bit of solvent to get out.
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I will second reading through some of the posts on loading .40 here on the board http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=73
Next, for someone new to reloading, I would *NOT* suggest using a exceedingly fast powder like "clays." When used properly, "clays" is a good powder but it is very fast and unless you pay close attention, you can have case blowouts and/or other "bad things" happen. As a new reloader, you may not know (yet) what to look for and do to prevent this from happening.
I would say to start with a slower powder like win 231/HP38 or similar that is hard to double charge (without knowing it immediately) and to get someone that has reloading knowledge to Mentor/Teach you when you are first starting out. Having a Mentor can save you a ton of headaches and keep you from making a lot of the typical "newbie" mistakes.
I started out with Win 231/HP 38 and after learning quite a bit with that, I graduated to faster powders.
Also, be aware, there are *three* "Clays" powders. There is "Clays", "International Clays", and "Universal Clays." "Clays" is very-very fast, "International" is slower, and "Universal" is generally in the same speed range as Win 231/HP 38.
This is why when someone says "Clays" people will ask clarifying questions as to which one OR assume that you really do mean the fast powder.
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If it is a stock M&P (non-pro) vs one with a Trigger job on it, the trigger job will make a hige difference in reset and how the shot breaks. Dan Burwell des a great trigger job using stock parts to stay within some sports rules. Other than that, for a DIY kit, the Apex ones are near impossible to beat. I have an Apex kit in my Pro and really like it.
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When it does not clean the Brass, or at least make some good progress in two hours, I replace it.
I just replaced the crushed walnut media I have been using for about a year now. I have run at least 20 gallons of pistol brass through it and about 5 gallons of rifle brass, probably more.
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AND whenever I take a bank MO to my bank they always ask if I know the person that sent it to me. And they typically have to clear just like a personal check. Postal MO's, they just cash them and thank me for my business.
Interesting Sarge, one would think the Post office would ask the same type of KYC (Know your customer) and AML/BSA (Anti-money laundering/ Bank Secrecy Act) regulatory information questions that a Bank would.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Know_your_customer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bank_Secrecy_Act
Learn something new every day
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Security wise ...there is no difference. They are both printed on paper and have "distinguishing marks" to prevent fraud.
Now, from what I understand, a postal money order can be cashed at a post office. That being said, if the Post office does not have the $$ in their cash drawer at that point in time, you just have to wait. No matter if it is a postal money order or a bank one, or a check, etc... they all have to go through the "Check 21 Act" compliance on check truncation when they go through to be "cashed" by any sort of a Banking institution. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Check_21_Act
Overall, the only thing a postal money order has going for it is that it makes it instantly a "federal offense" and not just a state or local one because it is issued by a Federal entity. Now, if a "bank" money order crosses a state line, then it becomes "interstate commerce" and if there is fraud at that point, it is also a federal offense, and can potentially be a state and local one as well depending on where and how it is filed.
Edit to add:
I work for a company that prints money orders/checks for a "banking institution" and have worked in I.T. in the "online banking industry" for many years now. I am not an expert but I know what NACHA, SWACHA, AML/BSA is.... and I stayed in a Holiday Inn last night so ...
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Zatchmo,
Best way to describe it is shooters choice grease on steroids. I actually gave a friend of mine a half a syringe of the shooters choice grease when I started using slide glide. The slide glide is a *far* superior product mainly because it's "stringy-ness" keeps it where you put it.
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In the long run there are two schools of thought on this and a lot of it boils down to what you plan on doing in the future, and personal preference.
If you plan on always shooting Minor (135PF) then 9mm is a good answer. The bullets are a bit cheaper, you use less powder, recoil is pretty soft, and 9mm brass is easily available.
Downside is that you generally do not want to shoot a Major PF load out of a "standard" 9mm pistol as it really has not been designed for the pressure and most people say that you really only want to use 9mm major brass once or twice because of the pressures involved overworking the brass.
If you ever plan on shooting Major Power factor, then .40 is the way to go. You can load it to major power factors and not have issues with brass. You can shoot heavier bullets and make Major more easily.
Downsides .40 mags do not hold as many bullets as the same size 9mm ones, the bullets are a bit more expensive, and Brass is not as plentiful.
Overall, it comes down to, Personal preference, what divisions you plan on shooting in the future, if you will be willing to buy a second gun for another division, and cost of reloading components. I know a lot of people that have a 9mm for minor and a .40 for major. I switched from a .40 to a 9mm for minor loads just because it was cheaper to shoot in the long run.
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One of our faster shooters is cross dominant. He taught himself to shoot pistols Right handed, but does everything else, including shooting rifle and shotgun, Left handed.
It worked for him, but it may not work for you depending on how dominant handed you are. I also know several people that have "taught" their off eye to be dominant when shooting. I have been told that shooting with both eyes open helps in this quite a bit.
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If you powder pan is big enough, throw 10 powder drops and then divide that number by 10 to get your average per drop. Then do that a second time and you should be able to see if there is a pattern to it being overcharged and can make small adjustments from there.
As a rule of thumb for myself, I don't start weighing till I have made 10 powder drops out of the measure. 5 drops will usually take out any variances if you have changed a setting but 10 seems to even things out and make them consistent for me and the powder I use.
As others have said, unless you are using a really fast powder or are running close to the max load, .1 is not something to get exceedingly worked up over. As usual though, you reload at your risk, so take proper precautions.
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IT seems like the smell of the coating burning is affected by the powder (of course
), but also the gun and barrel.Friend of mine ran out of .40 bullets at a match where I was shooting my .40 and asked to borrow some. Out of my 4" Springfield XD there was no smell. Out of his 5" Glock, there was. The only difference was the gun and barrel length.
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Question for clarification. Are you talking about 1 grain variations (i.e. 1.0 gr) or POINT 1 grain variation i.e. (0.1 grain)?
0.1 grain is an acceptable variation, 1.0 grain is not. If you are having a 1.0 grain or more variation in your drops, Call Dillon now and get them to help you troubleshoot before you go any further.
As others have said, after you make a change in your powder settings, throw 10 drops, and then reweigh. that way you are getting a valid reading as it takes a couple of drops for the volume of powder to change to the new setting.
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Looks to me like you may have had some weak brass but you also appear to be running a pretty hot load of Clays, if you are indeed running "Clays" and not Universal Clays.
According to Hodgdons reloading data, Universal Clays shows that 4.5 Would be under well under the minimum load but, Max load with a a 180gr bullet in a 40 is 3.5 gr of "Straight Clays."
To me, both inspecting the brass and the load of a very fast powder are good things to look at and consider as "causes."
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A lot of this depends on your gun, the powder used, and what it will shoot well. I would ask the manufacturer of the gun what they recommend as a starting point.
I know from reading and talking to people that the STI's usually will take the longer OAL but each gun is different. (I think you can ask them to set it up for longer OAL's but don't quote me on that)
As an example: My XD shoots minor loaded 180 Molly (4.1gr N320) and 200gr Molly (3.4gr N320) bullets very well at 1.135. Friend of mines XD shoots Molly 180's well loaded short with Clays.... If you go to JHP's then you are going to have to bump the load a bit.
Overall, I would say to Check with the manufacturer of the gun first and ask what they recommend and start from there and then come back and ask with some data on how it shoots the recommended load. That way you have a known starting point for people to assist you with better.
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SOB was trying to charge $990 in women's handbags. Already had spent $2200 earlier in the week without me knowing it. The card was in my wallet last night, so have no idea how they got the info.
Thankfully the credit card company is reversing the charges, but damn...I hate these people (the thieves, not the CC company).
I work in the "bill payment industry" and in my opinion, your card provider *SHOULD* have fussed a bit when there was a $2200.00 charge on the card that was entered "without the card present." If the card is not swiped through a terminal for a purchase that large, and/or used to buy things you normally do not buy... all kinds of alarms should have been going off. Working in the industry, there should be all kinds of "velocity parameters" and "normal usage" tracking that is going on. Anything "outside the norms" for you should warrant a phone call to your listed contact number. On a related note... have them list your cell as your contact #... it may be annoying, but I would rather find out immediately that something funky is going on than when I next check the messages at home....
As for how they did it, "they" could have been anyone that you gave the card to so they could run a charge for dinner etc.. There are also devices that they can swipe the card on and "steal" the information off of it to use. When they use a swipe terminal like that it is called "skimming." It could be as simple as they wrote the card # down and the 3 digit identifier on the back and then gave it back to you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0w_ktMotlo
I am security paranoid (part of my job description) and I have had two card numbers "taken." One guy was trying to by Futures stocks in property with them and the futures company noticed something funny and delayed the charges till they could talk to me and my bank and the other one my bank caught when I charged two different things within 5 minutes of each other 100 miles apart...
), but also the gun and barrel.
XDM 5.25 in 9mm, 40 or 45?
in Springfield (XD)
Posted
No problem at all. You had me wondering there for a bit if I was missing something I should know.
You might want to check on your info on the G34/35. From my understanding, As long as they are like all the other "factory Glocks", they are SSP legal.... as long as you don't slap a magwell on them. Magwell instantly moves you to ESP. http://idpaforum.yuku.com/topic/7985/Glock-34-Magwell