kmc
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Posts posted by kmc
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On 3/1/2022 at 4:59 AM, vluc said:
205 euros last I saw, about $230. not sure what shipping would be
In late Nov 2021, total shipped price to US was just under $248...and worth every penny
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24 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:
I know people have installed the plate on the older generation of Dillon Case Feeders and they work, but I do not know if they have the occasional upside down casing.
I have the DAA plate installed on two different Dillon case feeders--both are different vintages and pre-variable speed. My understanding was the DAA wedge should only be used on the variable speed while the DAA plate is used across all Dillon models.
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19 minutes ago, clw42 said:
I recently purchased a Dillon 1100, so I moved the DAA case feed plate from my 650 to the 1100 case feeder. Now every so often I get an upside down case. Never happened with the 650 and I set it up exactly the same way. Thoughts?? Anyone else have this happen? Variable speed setting is relatively low, and never really above half way. Also, not a fan of the variable speed case feeder, it can't really handle many cases.
Use mine on a 1050- and 650- attached Dillon case feeders (different vintages). Have never seen this with Dillon's plates or since I installed DAA.
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1 hour ago, mpmo said:
I realize I'm responding to a post from 14 months ago. But just in case you are still having this issue or someone else comes across it. I have a couple suggestions.
1.The magnet the die uses is very strong. If I have my powder drop turned too close to it, the metal of the powder drop attracts the magnet and does not let it drop.
2.My basement is a bit damp and I noticed after a while the rod seemed sluggish even when the powder drop wasn't an issue. I lubricated with graphite powder and that solved the issue.
One other thing I noticed is that the position of the ring that sits just below the magnet can stick in the up position which can cause a false alarm, or sometimes that small chirp and flash of a light. Lubing that with graphite fixed that. It also did not seem perfectly concentric so sometimes rotating it and testing it's up/down motion can also help.
I came looking for a solution to the powder spilling at speed. I will be trying the straw trick and I also like the idea of using a washer above the plunger. Might give that a try too! If anyone has since tested that, please update!
I'm the original poster and have tried every solution suggested here. If you watch my video in slow motion, you'll see the powder "splash" out of the case. I was definitely able to improve the situation with the best solution in my testing proving to be the straw. However, I could never make the splash go away entirely--it simply made the loader messy over a period of time. I finally gave up on this powder check and moved on. Today I have moved to an M7-automated 1050 and I use the M7 powder check, which is similar to the Dillon powder check in design. However, I actually believe the design is slightly more accurate than Dillon but is less flexible in that it will trigger on no case, which the Dillon will not. However, relative to this thread, neither spills the amount of powder over time that I have experienced with the DAA detector.
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On 1/14/2022 at 7:01 AM, SSGJohnV said:
We are hoping to have more detailed version notes down the road.
For the time being, the current software and firmware on the M7 website has been the standard for the respective machines for almost two years.
The 1050 software should open up 3,500 RPH as an option, as well as improve index settings. If you have a 4 stage motor you won't be able to take advantage of the top level output, but it will still improve your index. Depending on your particular auto drive version, we have parts available to get you up to current specifications.
If your launch button says "Reloader" it is time to update.
If you have tech questions you can give us a call or submit a support ticket on the M7 website, at this link
https://www.markvii-loading.com/supports/customer-service-support.html
Thanks for the info. Mine does say "Loader", so I assume it must be current based on your comments. You did spark my interest on your 4-stage motor comment. This unit is on the order of a year old--how do I tell which motor I have?
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42 minutes ago, CenTX said:
The CasPro website has the manual also, it is on the contact page.
Yes, I found it after this post. Thanks.
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2 minutes ago, Posvar said:
I should’ve said this the first time I posted on this thread but I have never had an issue with my MBX magazines. They seem to work in any gun I have owned. For my SV guns I use SV mags though.
That has been my experience as well. I have various lengths (and generations) of 9mm for Open and 40 for Limited.
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1 hour ago, donno said:
I am giving them a call tomorrow anyway.
That's what I had to to in order to resolve the confusion with my first set of mags.
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51 minutes ago, zzt said:
His video is quite clear. If the indent on the side of the tubes goes all the way up to the top you have Gen 1 tubes. If it stops just short of the top it is Gen 2. Gen 2 followers DO NOT work in Gen 1 tubes. Gen 1 followers work in ALL tubes. So if you are at all worried about misidentifying your tubes, order Gen 1 followers. As he states in the video, they are universal followers. They work in all tubes. About the only thing you have to get right is the caliber.
Actually his video is anything but clear and he never clearly shows what he's talking about. Before I got a Gen2 tube, it was unclear what version I had. Having two tubes of different vintage side-by-side, the difference is subtle at best. I know I'm not the only only one left wondering by his video. It would have been much better had he carefully shown what he's talking about.
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That’s not my point. I have a set of tubes and I have no ideA whether they are gen1 or gen 2. Which followers do I order?
6 minutes ago, zzt said:I don't see how you could make a mistake. Example: for 9mm followers, if you see a 9 on the side of the follower it is Gen 2. If not it is Gen 1. If you are not sure or can't figure it out then use Gen 1 in everything. I actually use Gen 1 followers in my 9mm big sticks because they work better.
There is a video where Adrian explains the differences between Gen 1 and Gen 2 mags, plus followers. I'll admit he can be obtuse, but this particular video was quite clear.
That is missing my point. I have a set of tubes and I have no idea if they are gen1 or gen2. What followers do I order? His video is anything but clear.
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33 minutes ago, zzt said:
Wow! This was really tough to find. https://mbxextreme.com/index.php?page=videos Scroll 3/4 of the way down the page.
And, while I'm a big MBX fan...owning many copies, Adrian's video explaining how to tell the difference is ANYTHING but clear. In fact he almost makes it MORE confusing.
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There is a subtle difference in the body toward the top of the mag and a corresponding difference in the follower.
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2 hours ago, shred said:
Yeah, they aren't good at release notes that I can see either, but Vlieger said it was g2g
I'll check my version next I get near it.
Thanks. I split this out to a separate thread to see if anyone else can weigh in.
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Can anyone tell me whether there are release notes or a change log published on the M7 firmware levels? I can't seem to find anything. I'm currently running "Version: 00.02.11 Firmware: 1050 PRO 40, Motor: 3432 (3) On USB". When I unzip the latest from their website I get the files below in the zip. Based on the dates and the age of my Autodrive, I assume I have the latest. Can anyone tell me if the files below will give you the version I have? I'm not willing to just install it and see what happens!
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1 hour ago, shred said:
On the "I agree" page at tablet startup there's a version string at the bottom. You can get the latest from the Mark 7 support site.
The other thing I noticed was the first screen button text changed from "reloader" to "loader", but it was years between updates for me ("if it ain't broke...") so I have no idea if that is coincident with any indexing changes.
I know where to get my version. I was asking for yours so I could compare to mine. I'll check mine when I get home. I know I can get the latest from their website but I've been unable to find any kind of version control history with changes or tell how my version compares to the current one they have posted. I know too much about firmware updates to just trust that it will be better--in my view, if it ain't broke definitely applies...
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2 hours ago, shred said:.
Another thing for the 1050/Mark 7 users is to update the software if you haven't lately. Sometime between when I updated it the time before (likely 2+ years ago) and a few months ago when I did again there was a change in the indexing code that greatly reduced tipping on mine.
What version did you upgrade to? Is there a way to tell what is the current version number?
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FWIW, I had finally tuned my 40 setup to run 100%. However, some required pressing in the gauge to pass the Hundo. Based on some ideas above, I replaced my Dillon factory holddown (in station 3) with a second sizing die sans decapper--a Hornady Custom Grade--and my gauge success went to nearly 100%. Problem solved.
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7 minutes ago, markimm said:
That wiring mod bypasses the over current detection of the motor control board, not a good idea.
Maybe so--I didn't looks specifically at what was bypassed. However, if Dillon doesn't support a 300% improved performance on their product with a simple plate, some other supplier will. The speed improvement with a better-designed plate is too good to pass up. Seems like a better approach might be to partner with DAA and have a supported way to run full speed. I realize I'm probably just tilting at windmills here...
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There are two useful online videos--one of which where he demonstrates that it clocks nearly 12K cases/hr on a Dillon case-feeder. Note that if you have the new Dillon DC motor case-feeder, it won't run at full speed since it's dropping cases so fast past the "tube full" detector, the new Dillon keeps reverting to their slow down/start up mode. The second video and online info shows you a simple (non-Dillon approved) wiring mod to disable Dillon's "accelerate/decelerate" mode--switch still shuts the motor off of course.
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8 minutes ago, George16 said:
I wonder if the output of the DAA plate can be achieved with just the wiring mod and still using the stock Dillon plate?
Definitely not. The plate design is the magic.
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21 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
The coke bottle effect also does not sit well with my OCD at all.
Ok, I guess I'll have to admit it--my OCD problem is what causes me to notice and care!
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I'm told my 1050 has one of the last case-feeders shipped with high and low speeds before Dillon switched to variable speed case-feeders. Now that I've automated the 1050, I'd like to speed up the case-feeder or possibly load it up with more brass. However, that would require a relatively spendy upgrade to get variable speed and a higher torque motor--whether Dillon or other supplier. I recently watched the video for the DAA Turbo Case-Feeder (here ==> https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-turbo-case-feeder-plate) and ordered it. It is supposed to be both much faster (due to improved efficiency), work with all pistol calibers, and have fewer jams. It doesn't of course give me any more torque. I only received it today and devised a quick test to compare basic speeds. Mind you that I've run this test but haven't yet used it for much reloading--I'll get to that later this week.
What I did was dump a bowl of clean, roll-sized 40S&W range brass in the case-feeder and run it on high until the tube is filled. I then emptied the tube, setting this brass aside without disturbing the case-feeder and ran it until the tube filled a 2nd time. Here are the times:
- Dillon - 38.45sec (first tube), 36.19sec (second tube)
- DAA Turbo - 18.96sec (first tube), 12.47sec (second tube)
In a word, Wow! Yes, very limited test and of course YMMV. However, first impression is pretty good bang for the buck.
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16 minutes ago, Ryan67 said:
Anything done on by the small bell on station 3 should be pushed backed into place by your crimp die. I use a cutaway case to set my swage die up and have no problems with either a Dillon or my preference of the Lee factory crimp passing a hundo gauge every time. Make sure your crimp die is set properly.
I too use a cutaway die to set my swager--both the DP holddown and the swager underneath. I'm running this with 40 and had the holddown die set to the bottom of the case and the swager set appropriately in the primer pocket. This positioning causes the brass to expand such that it will not drop into the hundo after station 3. It isn't the slight bell that stops it, it is the expansion toward the bottom of the case that does won't go into the Hundo. My crimp die is a combo seat/crimp so I can run a powder check. It takes the top bell/expansion out without issue but does not remove it toward the bottom of the shell. If I set the combo die up to go further toward the shellplate, it crimps too tightly at the top. I know the combo dies are tricky to set and have followed the suggested procedure as far as I know.
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14 hours ago, jejb said:
In my 1100's 3rd station, I use a Lee "undersized die". Since it touches the shell plate when at full cycle, it acts as an external hold down for the swager. So station 2 and 3 are sizing stations. I could have used the Lee die as my only sizing die, but figured it'd pull through the press better if I "pre-sized" them. And I was not a fan of the plastic hold down for the swager anyway.
I let the MBF powder drop do all the belling. The Lee die cut down on my Hundo failures by like 99%.
This seems like a good alternative but I’ve not always been crazy about U dies. Doesn’t it leave all your rounds with a coke bottle shape? Prior to the automation another downside was how hard it worked the brass though as a second sizer, I can see why it wouldn’t be as bad.
Bullets tippy on my 1050 + M7 Autodrive
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
I'm not sure what specifically fixed the problem, but I did several things per above and I've since made ~20K rounds without this issue. Without studying my comments above, I recollect making these changes:
Here is a video where I show a bit of this experience ==>