TBeazlie
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Posts posted by TBeazlie
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I'm new to revolver, and I am curious to know that since you don't loose your brass like the auto shooters do, how many times do you reload it?
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I just received my order from Billy Bullets for the 230gr rn. He must have mailed them before he even got my check. Shot some yesterday and they seem fine. I can't believe how slippery they are. They keep slipping out of my fingers.
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My Father is convinced that Pres. Obama will take all guns and ammo off the shelves etc. THIS IS NOT A POLITICAL THREAD! He has informed me that he will be sending me all I need to mold 9mm, 10mm/.40, .44 spl, .45, and he said more.
While not initially excited about the thought of casting bullets, I am beginning to get curious. This usually leads to my liking something as I love making things, especially things I can make well.
So.... If you found yourself in this same predicament, what sources would you go to concerning the how-tos on bullet making.
I have an area picked out in my back yard that is seclued and has good ventilation, power and water. I even have some lead already. (Diving weights that my boss was throwing out)
Also, what about making jacketed bullets? Molycoating your own?
Just throwing this out there as it was kind of thrust upon me and there is no changing his mind once he is set on something.
Thanks, JZ
I like casting bullets. It's therapuetic for me, and seems like magic as the molten lead flows in and the formed bullets come out. I would suggest Lymans Cast Bullet book as a basic source. Join the Cast Bullet Association. Handloader magazine some times has some info. Midway for equipment and molds. Bill Ferguson for alloys, look for the bullet man on the net. I suggest Lee Tumble Lube molds running two at a time with Lee push through sizer and Lee liquid alox. Traditional wax lubes an d moly is too much of a PIA for the number of pistol bullets most people like to shoot. Moly is also messy. There is alot of info on this board and the net. Good luck and enjoy. BTW handloader mag. has 2 or three special issues on cast bullets-out of print now-but if you can find these, tons of info. Good luck.
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Not a guru JAFRS I use Precision bullets with Clays powder to keep the smoke and the cost down. If shooting IDPA Low light, I have a Montana Gold bullet load for low flash and low smoke
So threre is no problem with the flat point causing any hang ups on the reloads? In a previous life I used the 185 rnfp in 40 s&w from precision and thought they were great but, I was put off by the flat point for revolcers for the above mentioned concern.
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There is much talk about bullets in the forums, but since I am trying to simplify my shooting life I'm limiting myself to the 45 acp for the foreseeable future. I'm shooting Precision 200SWC in the single stack 1911. I am thinking about revolver also but understand 230 rn is the way to go. Precision's 230 is rnfp. The other molycoated suppliers are back ordered. I can cast my own for practice, but too much smoke for match or indoor use. I read bad things about plated in the reloading section and jacketed is
in cost. Thought I would see what the revolver gurus think.Thanks.
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I have an earlier model. I like it. I use it as my briefcase to carry stuff back and forth to work. Sometimes I even put a pistol in it. If you left it unattended it would not take long for someone to find the secret compartment. When there is a pistol in mine its is never out of arms reach.
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Trying to make my shooting life simpler and am going to shoot SS and Revolver 45acp. Have plenty of precision 200gr SWC for the 1911, but I note the 230gr precision are flat point. Anyone use these in their 625?
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I tried to upload this file of a moonclip loader in action. No luck. Neat thing to watch.
Its on Photobucket mooner.flv jmorrismetal.
I'd like to buy one if anyone else knows about this tool.
Try www.mooncliptool.com. I bought onr. Works well.
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So when useing the 1/3 size targets so you set up at 10 ft. when you are running a drill set up to run at 30 ft. with standard size targets?
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I load 'em till I lose 'em.
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Great pics vernbo. That is just what I needed as those are the base pads I have.
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5.1 gr U Clays, 1.180 OAL 185 gr precision out of a P 14-40 always made major for me
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I guess I should has said this is in 38 SC.
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Ok! I pulled the open gun out this year. A STI and I shot my first match this year with it. Now I remember all the reasons I put it up about three years ago. I got 22 rounds in the 140 mags, but one round in each mag rolled under the follower and jamed up the follower with the rasults that I had an expensive rattle with all 4 mags. I just receiced a new 170 mag and Dawson basepd as well as 5 Arredondo inserts allegedly altered to fit the DP pads for the STI. GD it I could not get them in the bottom of the pads. Then I looked at the new pad I purchased with the 170 mag body. They look entirely different and the inserts fit the new pad for the 170 but not the old pads on the 140s, WTF is up with that? In addition I can't get the new pad on the 170. It came with directions saying that I have to modify the flange on the bottom of the 170 mag tube, but I did not have to do that with with the 140s and the old basepads.
Ok I'll pull out the dremel and fix the 170 and put an insert in it and be good to go with the big stick, but what can I do about the shorter mags? Or do I just accept putting only 20 rounds in them?
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I use Precision bullets in my P1640 and love them. I have never had a problem with smoke. Traditional lead bullets smoke plenty however. 185 rnfp with 5.1 gr U. Clays
loaded 1.180 is my standard .40 load
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Harmon,
What was the 4756 load in 40 with the precision bullets? I have about 8 lbs of it when I tried a race gun for a while. I gave it up when it was just too labour intensive to keep the thing running right, but would love to use the powder in some way.
Tom Beazlie
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I dunno, there comes a time when a man needs to grow up, and be more responsible--like when you have a wife and two kids. He is not the one that will suffer in all of this. His wife I'm sure knew the risk, but those two kids may never remember their dad except as seen in reruns. Sad all in all.
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The Midway Moly is a fine powder that you tumble onto the bullets using a seprate bowl for your tumbler. You can't use that bowl for anything else. The powder has the potential to get all over everything if you spill any, and after loading the moly coated bullets your fingers are black. That's about it.
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I am hoping to draw off the "experience pool" here ! I have recently gotten into casting my bullets ( I get the lead free ) and here is the problem/question. I am currently lubing with RCBS rifle lube. This is what my brother uses for all his cast bullets. The problem is that I am casting .401 bullets for my 40 S&W (more calibers in the future) and when I size and lube it gets lube on the nose of the bullet ( stubby bullets) thus it piles up in my seating die, in turn seating the bullet lower and lower. The only cure to this that I can think of is to clean the lube from the bullet prior to seating, but that is a pain in the butt !
I was surfing out here and ran across an article about moly coating bullets. According to the artice moly coating is fine as long as the velocities are under the 1100-1200 fps mark. Since the 40 S&W and 9 mm are fairly slow in the cast department my question is, Has anyone used moly instead of lube, and how did it work out ? IS moly a good replacement instead of lube ? Does moly keep the lead fouling down as good as lube ?
Thanks fellas
I have cast bullets for a variety of handguns and nothing works better for the do it yourselfer than traditional lube if you want to prevent leading. The problem is as you indicate- gumming up the seating die. Smoke may be a problem particularly in indoor ranges. Having said that, there is a certain sense of accomplishment in casting your own. I have tried the Midway moly coating kit with some success, but it is messy in its own way. Lee tumble lube is good, but still gums up the die somewhat. Currently I am workig with Rooster Reds tumble lube. It works pretty well-some leading, and does not gum up too bad. It still smokes some. If you want to really read expert opinion then I would suggest you join the Cast Bullet Association. Good luck.
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I may not be one to talk since I seem to be mired in C class, but I try to divide the targets into groups. I recently shot a stage where the targets were hidden by barrels and some could be seen at one position and not at others. So I broke them into groups and patterns. 3-3-4-3 and then shot the first target of the groups of three and the first and last of the group of four from one position and then only had to remember to shot the second and third of all the groups from the second position. I may not have been fast but there were no mikes and no fte penalties.
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I've broken a firing pin stop on my Para 16-40 bot that's all so far.
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Can you say 2004 area 8 or 2005 Virginia Maryland Sectional matches?
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The first time you read it you go huh?!. Then you shoot a bit and when you reread it its yeah!!. Then you shoot some more and read it again and its like YEAH MAN!!!
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I think the best I have heard ( and which I have been guilty of ) is when you pick up and save brass for firearms you do not even own....yet.
in cost. Thought I would see what the revolver gurus think.
How to use Moly Powder
in General Reloading
Posted
I have tried this with the Midway Moly powder. This is how it goes. Cast the bullets. Size them. Rinse in alcohol or similar solvent to get all the grease from your fingrs off and let dry. Put about 100-200 at a time in a tumbler bowl. You will need a seperate bowl for this. Add 1/4 cup BBs and about 1/8 tsp. moly. Tumble for about 5 mins. It will make qiute a bit of noise. Poor out and seperate the BBs with magnet. Rub remaining bullets with old towel to get excess moly off. Load as usual. You may want to wear a glove on the hand you pick the bullets up with as you load because it is still pretty messy.. Shoot. Then spend the next week cleaning lead out of your barrel--at least that is what I did. All in all a big PIA if you ask me. I still cast a great deal of 45acp particularly for practice. I tumble lube with liquid alox or rooster lab tumble lube. I still have the moly powder and the spare tumber bowl--not sure why.