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Posts posted by feederic
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Do not drop a slide on an empty chamber. The gun was not built for it. Simply ease the slide down and your trigger job will last a lot longer.
This is probably the best advice. The slide will never slam as hard as it does when you rack the slide hard, when it has to feed a round.
I agree wholeheartedly with this advice. My question is, should a healthy 1911 have hammer follow even when dropping the slide from slide lock on an empty chamber? Is there a proper cure other than "don't do that"? How would this be remedied?
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Hello: I wish they would make purple, yellow and dayglo green Thanks, Eric
Tryin' to rock a Barney theme amongst your collection?
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I was always under the impression Infinicoat is SVI's name for DLC.
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Excellent information as usual Gents. I will email around to find someone that can install one for me. For those with a grip, do you have the long dustcover? I guess my question is what are your observations on heft with a long dustcover and steel grip?
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Can anyone buy these and install on their own? I've called a few reputable smiths around here that tell me I can only have SVI install one from the factory, which sounded like BS to me. I have a STI btw.
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I used a double stack .45 for limited. Did the capacity hurt? yeah it did. Did I have a blast? Heck ya! It forced me to plan stages more cleverly than 'the norm'. I found out if you can't run w/ 17, don't run at all. If you got it run with it.
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I compete with shooters that do really well with less than 5" glocks. It does help, but is not a dealbreaker from what I can see out there.
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Interesting, my arredondo base pads all easily hold 20 reloadable. They are more like 20 and 1/2 capacity. I didn't think it would take much to get that extra 1/2.
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As a person that had a LEAD RELOAD GLOCK KB, GLOCK replaced the out of warranty FRAME and PARTS (read as almost a WHOLE BOTTOM END) for something like $60. I even told them on the phone it was my fault.
Glock has deals worked out where ammo companies pay for repair, even if its a partial payment in exchange for the boxed up ammo and I am sure they are not the only ones.
So call S&W up, tell them what happened and see what they can do.
Or you can do what many others tell you to do and not take a chance and buy a whole new gun. Its your money up for grabs.
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IF they are anything like Glock, send it back.
Keep the remaining WWB, and if the headstamp is a Winchester they may want you to send the ammo in.
I had a reloading KB in my Glock and had the frame and just about everything else replaced for something like $50 out the door.
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Anybody know what's coming out Oct. 14, 2011? I got an email from Hornaday with a video of someone whipping out a custom 2011, followed by "They're Coming ... Oct. 14, 2011".
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About 2-4k. You end up building a custom 1911 though from parts, and end up with top notch tools.
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If you had your choice, would you pick a single coating? Or would you mix and match if the price were all the same in the end?
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I know for a fact I shoot much tighter at 25 yds with all black. I'm still weighing that, but it still seems easier and quicker all around with fiber at my club with my eyes.
I will try blacking out the fiber again, and I also just switched from red to yellow (as an experiment).
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Nice job! What steps did it take to accomplish that, if I may ask?
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I'm not familiar with nibore, but melonite is a solid finish.
Nibore is similar to Fail Zero. Not as hard as rockwell, but super slick as it is self-lubricating.
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Or...
You could try tennis and basketball.
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I have a new Limited Blaster on the way and would like to get it coated. I have found some local company's doing nibore (Fail Zero) and melonite that are easily within driving range. I have looked at samples and they seem impeccable.
My question is, which coating would you guys pick and why? How about any combination of the two coatings?
-Eric
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I am very interested in taking some gunsmithing courses for 1911/2011.
Right now I am very interested in the C&S, Bob Rodgers, and Larry Vickers classes. Has anybody here taken these courses (I know a few have)? Would it be necessary to take multiple courses, say 2 or 3, of them before being able to reliably trouble shoot and make accurate reliable 1911 patterned classes? I wouldn't mind taking all of them eventually, but I was wondering if it would be overkill.
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I switched from adjustable fiber to all black sevigny sights. I shot 4 matches before I tore the black sevigny's off and put the adjustable fiber back on, I feel like I can track the sights MUCH quicker. Actually, I know I can with fiber...my splits show it.
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I regularly get smoked with my G35 by my friend with a G22. Enough so I stopped worrying about equipment, and spend all my time worrying about stage prep. Its a glock! shoot it!
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Sending it back to the previous owner and he is going to work it out. He is a good guy and has been very helpful.
I hope everything works out.
This sounds very similar to an issue I had with my limited blaster. It turns out my extractor was a touch on the long side, and lost tension as the slide went into battery. The first round or two worked great then after that stove-pipe city. I also made the rookie mistake of handloading and dropping the slide. A caspian extractor fixed it up perfectly ever since.
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I think you nailed it, till you shoot it you just don't know for sure.
2 months ago I got my first open gun, no holes. I waited til after 3k rounds then I decided I needed the holes. I recently had a local gunsmith put 3 holes and was returned to me on the day of a match. With same load/ammo, shooting style and no practice getting used to the holes, it helped me speed up my 2nd shots. It worked for me. YMMV
8.0 3N37 PF 170 before, 8.0 3N37 PF 168 after. Just want to share my experience...
What size holes? Could you post some picks to give us a reference? Thanks
My smith called it a #3 hole, probably a metric drill bit size. Here is a link to a blown up picture that will give you a better idea: http://www.sashooter...ageViewsIndex=1
This one might be easier to see:
[/url]http://www.sashooter.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=731
Are the links working for everyone? I am very interested in the pictures.
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Thanks for the advice everyone! There is definitely a lot for me to consider here but now I have some great data points.
Currently, I load for .44, .45, .40, 9mm, and am starting up on .223 (with military crimps I need removed). I typically load 1-1.5k up at a time.
Barsto BS40 vs STI Edge 5" for limited
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
My Barsto went to Benny and has never had an issue afterwards. It shoots real tight groups. I like it so much I bought another one.