Stainless Steel

Hi All: What is the ultimate gamer's IDPA (belt) holster. Attributes I am looking for are fastest, lips stay open for reholstering, sight channel to avoid sight dragging during drawing, easy on gun finish and durable for extended practice sessions. Also not too tight. Not sure about the cant, which is fastest? I know, I know, IDPA isn't for gamer's. This question is hypothetical only. Wink, wink. Stainless.

the duck of death: Check out the following link. Use the search feature for info on your gun. The posts on your gun are some to the most positive I have seen for ANY brand of 1911. http://www.1911forum.com/forums/forumdispl...&forumid=52 Lanyard.

Tree Rat: .510" at narrowest part of barrel - Early 1990s Springfield 9mm, yes tapered barrel and no feed ramp. I would love to know how this compares to the new guns. By the way this barrel is carbon steel. I assume the new tapered ones are stainless steel? Lanyard.

Tree Rat: I measured the OD of the barrel at the muzzle on several of my guns. They measured as follows: .579" - Colt Gold Cup .45acp .580" - Early 1990s Springfield 9mm, yes tapered barrel and no feed ramp .580" - 2001 loaded Springfield 9mm, no taper and integral feed ramp .499" - Early 1990s Colt 9mm, no taper and no feed ramp Lanyard.

Tree Rat: I have a Parkerized Springfield 9mm from the early 1990s like that. I also have a loaded stainless 9mm from 2001 that has the integral feed ramp without the taper. I have not been able to tell any difference between the two configurations as far a reliability. How about some pictures of your new gun and barrel! Maybe it isn't exactly like my 1990s gun. My 2001 Springfield full size 9mm was shipped with a 45acp slide stop instead of the 38super/9mm slide stop. This was causing the slide not to lock back on the last round intermittently. Just because your Springfield slide stop has a nine on it, doesn't necessarily mean that it is a 9mm/38super. I have read of incidents where this happened to STI and Kimber owners as well. You can determine if your slide lock is correct by measuring how long the protrusion is that the magazine follower pushes up on. A 45 slide stop protrudes about .200". A 9mm protrudes about .230". To measure the lug length, remove the slide stop from the gun. The lug length is measured from the inside flat to the tip of the lug. I use the ass end of my dial caliper to do the measurement. I replaced the slide stop with a Wilson's 9mm which solved the problem. By the way, to get the gun to lock back 100% of the time, I use an 11.0lb recoil spring. Springfield shipped the gun with the 11.0lb spring. I tried a 14.0lb because in some circles that is considered standard. I changed the springs in all of my 9mm magazines with the spacer in the back with Wolf extra power springs which helped feeding immensely. The magazines with the spacer in the back are only reliable with 115gr FMJ ammo in my guns. I tried one of the new modified Springfield 9mm magazines with the crimp in the front. These are the new ones modified by and available only through the Springfield custom shop at this time (the older ones with the front crimp gave some people problems). With the new magazine, 124gr bullets now work fine. I haven't tried any hollow points in my 9mm 1911s because I use .45s for self defense. Stainless. (Edited by Stainless Steel at 6:49 pm on Feb. 5, 2003)

Duane Thomas: Is this THE Duane Thomas that writes for Handguns? Stainless.

Hi All: Subject: Front cocking serrations. I used to belong to one of the most active gun clubs in the nation (SSA). They were into IPSC, steel challenge and bowling pin shooting big time. I would still be a member except that they lost their local range due to urban encroachment. They since moved to a range too far away for me. In this club, you just weren't COOL if you did not have front cocking serrations on your gun. I never did have a gun with the front serrations until recently, so I was never one of the super Cool guys there. However, I had some great fun shooting with those guys! I literately shot tens of thousands of rounds with them. Now that I own a new Springfield Loaded with front cocking serrations and have had time to experiment around shooting the gun and doing pinch checks; I just don't get it. What is the big tactical advantage to front serrations. I really don't see any advantage in speed or ease doing a pinch check with the front versus the back serrations. I really am not comfortable putting my hand that close to the muzzle. On the Dan Wesson forum, I have noticed a big backlash against the front serrations. They don't like the looks. As far as looks go, I can take them or leave them. Will someone please tell me why some people just have to have front serrations? Thanks! Stainless.