Petrov
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Posts posted by Petrov
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Well besides the bent crane I have the ratchets dragging on the shield.
I used a sharpie to mark that circle on the cylinder that us supposed to be the bearing surface and its untouched and the ratchets hand the marker rub off right away.
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49 minutes ago, Toolguy said:
Yes. That circle is all that should touch the recoil shield. The top of the ratchets should be about .005 below the surface of the circle.
Well s#!t that explains a lot
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Hey a quick question. I ordered a spare cylinder and hand and extractor that I will probably ruin and I cant find the instructions in the shop manual. What should be the bearing surface with the blast shield / extractor star interaction? The little circle in the middle or the ratchet stars themselves rubbing on the shield?
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Tried a new center pin and it did not change how the cylinder and the trigger behaved. I did put in a new oversized hand into the revolver to try it out but it binds up about 1/2 way through the trigger pull. Cylinder locks in place and the hand doesnt slip over the ratchet.
Edit: Forgot to mention i did straighten the yoke somewhat with my hands and it did noticeably improve the trigger pull with the chambers that were binding. Going to get power custom tools to straighten it out right.
Edit 2: I manually held down the cylinder catch and the hand rotated the cylinder just fine.
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20 hours ago, Farmer said:
Look very closely (with magnification) at the recoil shield on the left hand side for signs of dings or dents. Have seen cranes get bent when cases aren’t fully in the cylinder and someone tries to slam the cyl shut. I also re-watched your video of the rub marks on the crane and noticed one at the front and one at the back opposite side.
No dings or dents, I used a l10x loupe and I used a hard pick to see if there are any lips.
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My alignment gage came in and oh boy. Would not go in I had to push the crane hard all the way to the right for it to go in.
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29 minutes ago, Toolguy said:
For future reference, that is called the center pin.
Thanks!
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Took the long pin out of the extractor out the one that pushes on the cylinder bolt. Cylinder spins freely with no problems now. Going to replace that and see if it fixes the issue.
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Checked with a dial indicator while it was sitting on the crane 0.0015 runout on the ass end of the cylinder.
I pulled the trigger slightly and turned the cylinder by hand and there is definite tight spot I can feel when I turn it by hand.
I did the same thing again but pushed the cylinder release button forward and turned the cylinder again the the bind was gone
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21 minutes ago, Farmer said:
Now that could also be that the barrel isn’t cut square. But check the clearance at the back by the shield to see if it follows the same trend. It should be opposite of the front. Also rotate the cyl 180 and check the front clearance to see if it changes.
The front of the cylinder has been very kindly faced by a nice gentleman. It has been fing atrocious from the factory like wobbly wheel bad but got fixed.
So I checked and the tight side switched places left to right on the barrel and cylinder interface, same for back of cylinder and balst shield.
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5 hours ago, Farmer said:
I would check the clearance between the cylinder and the recoil shield to see if it varies as the cylinder turns. Or the clearance between the cylinder and barrel to see if it’s even. If it’s not square it could bind and also throw timing off. Look for other wear patterns too.
Tightest barrel to cylinder spot is 0.003 on the opposite side of the cylinder the fit is 0.005. Something else I noticed about the side that 0.005 clearance. Kinda hard to explain so I made a video:
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Would this out of time on one or two chambers cause binding/ heavier/inconsistent trigger pull on my revolver?
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So logically when the whole revolver has timing problems it is probably the hand and when it is one or two chambers it is usually the ratchet? What is the remedy for that?
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Possibly? Would that cause the gun to bind? I also noticed something. One of the chambers is out of timing, the cylinder catch slots in the recess almost at the same time as the hammer falls. On the opposite side of the cylinder it seems to slot in on time.
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I also noticed something. Where the trigger pull is normal I can hear the cylinder catch snapping into the cylinder slot as I stage the trigger before it breaks.
On the tight spot? There is no transition of that it basically snaps in place and the hammer falls there is no staging.
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front of the barrel lug doesnt touch the extractor rod so I have to hold it in. But it seems that there is no tight spots with me holding it down.
1 hour ago, 625 said:How does the trigger movement feel with the cylinder removed?
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crane measure .3825 in nice clean area and .3850 in the worn area
I also did the trick where you pushed on the locked cylinder and move the cylinder release bolt and it did hang up in certain positions.
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My headspace is 0.072
My back and forth (endshake?) Cylinder movement is about 0.002.
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I ordered a crane alignment rod to rule some stuff out.
Honestly at this point I am willing to drop hundreds of dollars on specialist tools because it will be less hassle to figure this out myself with whole shipping of handgun mess and all the running around.
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35 minutes ago, gargoil66 said:
Petrov:
May want to measure the crane using a calipers to see if there is a high spot. I didn't see the type of wear that would indicate to me a problem though. Seems like the crane is fine to me.
The extractor rod surely looks like it is not perfectly straight. Question is does it matter?
Need the gunsmith guru's here to offer their advice. I had the same problem and it dealt with the trigger, hammer, and cylinder stop. Had to send it to TK Custom and they found out the problem and fixed it. Super reliable and a great trigger pull now.
GG
The extractor rod doesnt touch the barrel lug so I dont think so?
I will measure with my caliper thank you.
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15 minutes ago, Toolguy said:
The ejector rod doesn't have enough runout to matter. It's straighter than a lot of them.
If there was a bulge in the crane barrel that was causing a problem, it would have a shiny spot where it was rubbing. You can smooth out the roughness on the crane barrel by holding the front part in a vise and using some fine emery cloth in a shoe shine manner on the crane barrel. I would go with 400 grit or finer.
I dont know if it can bee seen well in the video but the first 3/4 of the crane barrel is untouched and the last 1/4 is where all the rub marks are. The issue is much more pronounced when I load and try to shoot live ammo. One side I have a beatiful smooth trigger and on the other it is well... atrocious.
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Hey folks my trigger is not very consistent, actually it is terrible. There is a tight spot there. It is not the cylinder and barrel touching. I did take out my crane and found something interesting:
I think I am going to have to send it to gun smith to get looked at and fixed. Any ideas if what is happening with the crane is normal? Also any suggestions for a good revolver gun smith?
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So my SDB was giving me all sorts of weird problems mostly in the indexing and priming department. After tightening and loosening everything and tearing everything apart I found the problem.
My shell plate is black in color and when I looked at the inside top part that the bolt holds down? Shiny worn a really deep nasty flat spot on the shell plate. Even with the bolt fully tightened my shell plate rocked back and forth a bit. Shell plate bolt? It looks pristine not a scratch on it, plate? nasty and worn. I do use grease down there. I wonder if it is maybe heat treating issue?
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25 minutes ago, ysrracer said:
Bad? Six months ago they were $120 a thousand.
That is almost 10 times more than what I paid for my wolf primers.
150 Bucks for 8# h335
Cylinder binding problem?
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Going slowly marking with a sharpie and using a very fine stone I am slowly lowering the ratchet protrusions. There is way less binding now. I still have timing issues with 2 chambers where the cylinder catch and hammer drop at the same time almost but that is probably a hand project that I will need a diamond file for so I can cut away part of the nose for the new hand so it clears the ratchet.