Petrov
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Posts posted by Petrov
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Maybe it is just me but I noticed that its not the weight of the revolver but weight up front that makes the difference.
Shooting my 686PC back to back with my N frame PPC target gun really highlights the difference.
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Try new shell plate, also check your adjustments and make sure when your shell plate advances it does it somewhat smoothly instead of that jerky snap motion.
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Loaded up some more ammo. I am so happy. Before I was able to wiggle the link arms so much that it would even make a clank noise with new bearings installed. Back to being practically brand new. I am going to buy a 750 with case feeder next.
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So I managed to get a really old Square deal (pre-B). Ironically this is my second used one that was used by .41 special shooters. It was really well used. I used it to load up thousands upon thousands of 9mm cartridges.
It was pretty darn worn, I could wiggle the link arms and they would visibly move and make noises and I think the main pin for the handle was pretty fried too.
After less than a week at dillon I got my press back and it's tight! No more slop and wiggle and now I can adjust my index pawl (that wasn't a thing in pre B).
I love dillon.
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1 hour ago, pskys2 said:
you should've said tried a special wound spring and it didn't work? Just think if it had worked?! We'd all be running out to the office supply store.
This is my performance contra axial torodial counter kinetic inline lateral performance spring. That will be 50 dollars.
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Guess who mistook a slightly tapered mechanical pencil spring for a firing pin spring?
Its me I drank the dumb bit-h juice, the whole gallon jug.
Back to consistent ignition at 7.5 pound DA pull.
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Ah, I am a potato. Back to the drawing board.
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Well the issue is back. I have noticed something though.
When it fails to fire it leaves a tiny little weak dimple. I can fail to ignite it 5 times I'm a row and it's all small weak dimple.
Finally when it does go off it has a good strong firing pin impact that leaves a good dent in the primer.
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Going to replace hammer, slide and the firing pin. All those parts I took a file/stone to without a care or clue at one point or another. Will help me to rule some things out. Getting all of the parts from TK.
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Oh just in case I measured my apex firing pin, 0.480.
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5 minutes ago, Joe4d said:
I find that a bit suspect, more likely you have a headspace/ cylinder endshake problem. Not doubting your observations, just the diagnosis. If the head space is correct as the bent spot came under the firing pin it should move it up tight. Shouldn tbe enough room there. I mean even a high primer rubs and makes things tight.
No endshake I took care of that. I do have headspace that is just outside of the specs. I think just a hair over 0.064? I dont have the numbers with me.
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So I have been having trouble with really weak hits on my primers, barley a dimple in my 627.
I have been treating my moonclips like magazines, just dump them in an ammo box or the range bag, pile them on top of each other fully loaded etc.
Put empty brass in a moon clip in do some dry fire and observe. The brass kinda sticks out a bit from the cylinder so when the firing pin hits it whacks the primer and the brass starts to travel forward and the moon clip almost acts like a spring to absorb the kinetic energy.
About half of my moon clips are a bit wonky. They dont have obvious issues but they are bent enough for one round not to ignite out of the 8.
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Quick question. My hammer has this sight protrusion below the striking surface and this protrusion is hitting the the frame, is that by design? I have some deformed metal below the firing pin area where it keep hitting. Its not hitting the sides of the frame but below the firing pin.
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I have about 35,000 live rounds and about 300,000 dry fires through my Apex hammer. The only issue I had was the sear pin walking out and binding the action up.
Sometimes s#!t happens. People who install things like Apex hammers into their revolvers tend to be people who shoot their guns a LOT. First time I seen this happen to an Apex hammer and I had mine since they came out.
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Excellent, OAL?
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Hey folks I am about to cook up some 38 short colt with 160 GR bayou bullets. I have N320 and Sport Pistol powder. Any one have any data?
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On 9/9/2023 at 10:20 AM, ysrracer said:
Yeah six months ago it was $26 s bottle.
20% jump in 6 months
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On 9/7/2023 at 10:00 PM, ysrracer said:
These guys had it a few months ago for $26 a pound.
https://www.brunoshooters.com/product/alliant-powder-sport-pistol-1lb/
Forum says you posted this on Thursday and the price is already up to to 30.95
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1 hour ago, Joe4d said:
obviously didnt go to same elementary I did,, youd woulda had the lefty beat out of you with a yard stick like I did
9
I was born right handed but I was able to overcome that disability
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Is "large" left hand safety and left hand *thumb rest [generic]* an option for TS2?
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Hey folks I have a query.
The belt mount screws stick out really far and dig into the inner belt. Is that normal? The protrude a pretty decent distance.
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Had a chance to compare my new extractor to my old and it was obvious to the naked eye how different and inconsistent and smaller my stars were. So after everything:
I fixed the bent crane
Squared up the end of the crane on which the cylinder was rotating around
Put in new factory extractor
Put in new factory cylinder hand
Put in power custom cylinder stop
Revolver back to normal.
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As I work on this revolver I just learn more and more interesting things. I installed an oversized cylinder stop with minimal fitting. Two of my chambers have timing that is "late" hammer drops almost at the same time as the cylinder stop locks in. I I had the firing pin out and when the firing in out and I pull the trigger the cylinder stop is a hair away from locking the cylinder but stop just short enough. Put the firing pin back in and it its back to locking up.
I have been up until 4am filing and messing with power custom cylinder arm trying to get it to fit and work.
So far the trigger binds up in the last 5% of the trigger pull, but if I pull the trigger fast like shooting a stage it works just fine with no binding.
Yes the manual says file the hand window but I am not willing to do that as the hand I dont mind screwing up but the revolver itself?
This is frustrating and rewarding at the same time.
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Well I found the main culprit of a tight spot on the cylinder. Lower part of the crane was ... well it was a bit too long (the part that goes in the revolver frame. I gently filed some with a very fine stone and the tight spot is gone when I turn the cylinder by hand. I also got a range rod with a match attachment and my cylinder and barrel alignment is good.
Chamfered 627 cylinder… Getting ready for next year.
in Revolver Forum
Posted
I am just an inept goober who caused more problems trying to fix another problem when I was messing with my revolver but... In my case that gritty return was based on hand/ratchet interaction. Dry firing a bunch did help.