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MAC10

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Posts posted by MAC10

  1. I`ve been shooting .45 acp for yrs. all diff. bullet weights. used both 310 & 320. no discernible difference in accuracy

    when comparing bullet weights. but if i had to choose one over the other...i`d opt for 310. just my preference.

  2. to answer a couple of questions, nope, not dumb enough to use the wrong die. i did try sizing a couple over again. no change.

    i`m under the assumption that the brass my be weak as i saw in another forum or...like farmer said, i may have to do something to the die.

     

    also, i did check with a caliper and there is flair at min.  btw, i`m not using a progressive so there is no metal expander. i`m using a set

    of redding dies.

  3. this brass was from Capitol Cartridge ( once fired fully processed brass ) . no, not the first time i have used these dies.

    used once before to reload for someone else. doing the same this time for someone else also. and before, i used once fired brass too.

     

    i checked the headstamp of these pieces of brass that have a bulge and it does not seem to matter what brand they are. ( all random )

  4. hello,

    have a problem i have never encountered before in my 35+yrs of reloading.

    i started flaring some .380 cases. i have adjusted the dies as i always have.  i started with the screw backed out and gradually screwed it in

    until i just had a slight flair ( and by slight, i mean it still did not let the bullet set on the case w/o wobble ).

    i proceeded to screw the adjuster down a tad further to get just a tad more. then lowering the ram i looked at the case

    and it had a bulge in it. i tried to adjust the screw out and in a few more time but if i adj. it so there is no flare, the bullet does

    not sit on the case as it should. if i adj. it to to where i normally do for any other case, 9mm 45acp etc., it want to bulge it.

     

    i searched this problem and saw a post where it says that some .380 die sets, the expander may be too long. if that is the case,

    how would i rectify this situation. btw, the bulge is always the same distance from the top of the case. and is appx. about where the base

    of the bullet would be after seating.

     

    thanks for any helpful insight.

  5. hi,

    due to all the reloading component shortages i have had to buy some 147gr bthp`s ( these are not pulled but new ).

    i`m sure most of you already know there is hardly any data for this bullet in manuals. what i have read is to just use 150gr

    bullet data and work up. that would be fine if i lived in a warm climate where i could get my chrono out but is is way too cold.

     

    i was hoping someone would already have a few safe pet loads using various powders or a site that had data for these bullets.

     

    i would be using nato brass so the volume would be smaller than using com. brass. below are the powders i have available to use:

    imr 3031

    imr 4895 ( my fave for 168gr match Sierra bullet)

    imr 4064

       h-4895

    benchmark

       h-335

     blc-2 ( normally a 5.56 powder for me )

    & TAC

     

    any help would be appreciated...thanks!

     

  6. it is poss. that much +/- would translate to 50 fps. but would doubt it.

     

    but on a cooler/colder day you might notice a diff in fps. but as far as accuracy...i don`t think so at least 25 to 50 yds.

  7. nope...i dont use anyhting but titegroup in my 45acp`s. especially for 200gr swc`s.

    use all year long here in PA. never any problems & always the same accuracy!!

     

    add... as far as fps, i dont remember ever chrono them in both cold or warm times.

    like i said, accuracy was always the same. my les baer & range office are nice tight groups @ 25yds.

  8. i dont know if it is either. i think i saw an article in one of the major gun publications. the author said

    when he tried to probe about the make up of the powder, he did`nt get a good answer.

    anyhow, when some of my bullets arrive this week i`m going to try to chronograph a few to see the difference.

  9. 19 minutes ago, Kenstone said:

    Thanks for posting your results and a glued primer onto the frame like in the video I posted, worked.

    Sounds like you filed the wrong end of that part though...

    ?

     

    no i didnt. on the filing. the more i would file the further in it would screw in. but it got to the point it was rubbing on the

    bottom of the slide. it would not stop it from working correctly though. i just knew a little more off it would have made

    too much contact.

  10. results...

    i tried filing worked fairly decent but still was not much better than w/o. if i would have filed any more, slide would

    not have functioned properly as was said above. so what i did was to super-glue a spent small pistol primer on the frame

    where the punch makes contact with frame. i used the firing pin dent like a centering punch to line it up.

     

    still not like using a hand prime device or work like my dillon press to seat at bottom of primer pocket but

    much better than it was. but now is noticeably below flush, where Hornady should have manufactured it!!!

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