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MAC10

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Everything posted by MAC10

  1. i`ll look at western. i do have their manual. but i have been using 150gr data with no problems. thank you
  2. I`ve been shooting .45 acp for yrs. all diff. bullet weights. used both 310 & 320. no discernible difference in accuracy when comparing bullet weights. but if i had to choose one over the other...i`d opt for 310. just my preference.
  3. no offense taken . appreciate the help
  4. no these are redding .380 dies specifically. for .380
  5. to answer a couple of questions, nope, not dumb enough to use the wrong die. i did try sizing a couple over again. no change. i`m under the assumption that the brass my be weak as i saw in another forum or...like farmer said, i may have to do something to the die. also, i did check with a caliper and there is flair at min. btw, i`m not using a progressive so there is no metal expander. i`m using a set of redding dies.
  6. this brass was from Capitol Cartridge ( once fired fully processed brass ) . no, not the first time i have used these dies. used once before to reload for someone else. doing the same this time for someone else also. and before, i used once fired brass too. i checked the headstamp of these pieces of brass that have a bulge and it does not seem to matter what brand they are. ( all random )
  7. hello, have a problem i have never encountered before in my 35+yrs of reloading. i started flaring some .380 cases. i have adjusted the dies as i always have. i started with the screw backed out and gradually screwed it in until i just had a slight flair ( and by slight, i mean it still did not let the bullet set on the case w/o wobble ). i proceeded to screw the adjuster down a tad further to get just a tad more. then lowering the ram i looked at the case and it had a bulge in it. i tried to adjust the screw out and in a few more time but if i adj. it so there is no flare, the bullet does not sit on the case as it should. if i adj. it to to where i normally do for any other case, 9mm 45acp etc., it want to bulge it. i searched this problem and saw a post where it says that some .380 die sets, the expander may be too long. if that is the case, how would i rectify this situation. btw, the bulge is always the same distance from the top of the case. and is appx. about where the base of the bullet would be after seating. thanks for any helpful insight.
  8. thanks but as i said in my post "working up" requires me to get my chrono out and its way too cold to do that at this time. i was looking for an exact recipe or two that i would not have to chrono. btw, these would be used in an ar10 w/ 24in bull bbl.
  9. hi, due to all the reloading component shortages i have had to buy some 147gr bthp`s ( these are not pulled but new ). i`m sure most of you already know there is hardly any data for this bullet in manuals. what i have read is to just use 150gr bullet data and work up. that would be fine if i lived in a warm climate where i could get my chrono out but is is way too cold. i was hoping someone would already have a few safe pet loads using various powders or a site that had data for these bullets. i would be using nato brass so the volume would be smaller than using com. brass. below are the powders i have available to use: imr 3031 imr 4895 ( my fave for 168gr match Sierra bullet) imr 4064 h-4895 benchmark h-335 blc-2 ( normally a 5.56 powder for me ) & TAC any help would be appreciated...thanks!
  10. MAC10

    45acp

    try Penn Bullet Co. i get all my lead there. great bullets!
  11. hi, i have been loading these for years using a Redding taper crimp die. i set the crimp at a "dead nuts" .470. (oal of 1.270)
  12. dead nuts .470 taper for 45acp
  13. MAC10

    TiteGroup

    if you want to try this, buy a # of CFE pistol and see if you get same results. i did some time ago. again, i really didn`t notice a difference. at least in accuracy.
  14. MAC10

    TiteGroup

    it is poss. that much +/- would translate to 50 fps. but would doubt it. but on a cooler/colder day you might notice a diff in fps. but as far as accuracy...i don`t think so at least 25 to 50 yds.
  15. MAC10

    TiteGroup

    i use to but now i use a Horn. LNL progressive. Still no diff. in accuracy...always good!
  16. MAC10

    TiteGroup

    nope...i dont use anyhting but titegroup in my 45acp`s. especially for 200gr swc`s. use all year long here in PA. never any problems & always the same accuracy!! add... as far as fps, i dont remember ever chrono them in both cold or warm times. like i said, accuracy was always the same. my les baer & range office are nice tight groups @ 25yds.
  17. i dont know if it is either. i think i saw an article in one of the major gun publications. the author said when he tried to probe about the make up of the powder, he did`nt get a good answer. anyhow, when some of my bullets arrive this week i`m going to try to chronograph a few to see the difference.
  18. no i didnt. on the filing. the more i would file the further in it would screw in. but it got to the point it was rubbing on the bottom of the slide. it would not stop it from working correctly though. i just knew a little more off it would have made too much contact.
  19. results... i tried filing worked fairly decent but still was not much better than w/o. if i would have filed any more, slide would not have functioned properly as was said above. so what i did was to super-glue a spent small pistol primer on the frame where the punch makes contact with frame. i used the firing pin dent like a centering punch to line it up. still not like using a hand prime device or work like my dillon press to seat at bottom of primer pocket but much better than it was. but now is noticeably below flush, where Hornady should have manufactured it!!!
  20. im gonna try filing first. i bought 3 extra of ea. the small & lg. seaters. so if i mess one up...i`ll still be gtg. i`m a hobby guy( built my own rc planes & heli`s) im used to using small tools and such to mod and build. i`ll take my time and measure & fit constantly. it will be good! if not, i`ll go the other way.
  21. thanks pal, gonna try it tonight. i`ll post my results later.
  22. i read this before. but how did you keep all 6 sides even? what tool/ tools did you use? just a small hobby file? be interested to learn how you kept all sides even w/o taking to a machinist.
  23. your right on the Wilson buy. would you want to sell me one to try?
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