bball97
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Posts posted by bball97
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I am new to metallic reloading. I loaeded up a couple hundred 9mm, with 125 grain LRN, 3.9 Grains of Solo 1000 and Remington primer. I went to the range and experienced a couple of squib loads. To be safe, I packed everything up and went home. I took a primer, the bullet and a cleaned, unprimed case, weighed them then added 3.9gr. Balanced the scale and proceeded weighing. (Old Ohaus balance beam scale but very accurate). I found many that did not raise the beam at all, and some that moved it all the way.
When setting up the Press I always throw at least 8 to 10 powder samples, weighing each, they are dead on. I then periodically do the same about every 25 to 50 rounds. Everything appears normal. I look carefully before putting the bullet on to make sure there is powder in the case. I sample weighed the bullet batch and they are very close in weight.
OK, here is the question, what would you consider to be a reasonable standard deviation in finished round weights? I am getting a bit gun shy of any additional squibs, especially in any kind of steel plate or USPSA event where there are very fast double taps.
Suggestions?
I had the same problem weighing the loaded rounds. Different casings weigh substantially different. Oh well, that extra scale that I bought for that purpose is now for sale!
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I get 50lb bags of corncob for less than $14, guess what I use.
Wow, where do you find that?
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Same here. Walnut to clean it and corncob with nufinish to shine it. Looks like new ammo. I change mine more than others have recommended here also. For the walnut shells I keep new stuff on hand and compare it to what I am using at the time. After 10 batches or so you can really feel the difference in the sharpness or grit. Soon after it will quit working as well. Corncob turns gray eventually and will take longer to polish. Both products are cheap and keeping it fresh should lengthen the life of the tumbler.
Something else I learned about putting new finish in the mix. Mix it with some mineral spirits to thin it out. SHAKE WELL before adding it in as it will separate in the bottle. I used a clear bottle and was amazed at how fast it separates. Also use care when adding it to the corncob as it can end up inside a case. It can dry hard in the bottom of a case reducing capacity. I shoot a little in to the corn and run it awhile before adding brass to prevent this.
I noticed that Dillon polish says that it doesn't have any ammonia in it. Does Nu Finish have ammonia?
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Ok, now I know that I am going with the CV-750 Vibratory case cleaner and the CM-500 media separator. Now, which media should I get? I have one jug of Lymans corn cob that my Dad gave me for my birthday, so I am leaning toward getting the walnut shells so that I have some of both. What do you recommend? I am currently reloading mostly silver colored 38 special cases, but will eventually start reloading 9mm & 45 ACP brass. Thank you all for your input, it is priceless..."In the multitude of counselors there is safety."
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So what about the col? Is this length a max? What about pressures? I'm still confused. If col is so important, why in my load will the bullet be so far into the case. I'm doing a search and try to learn more about col.
JB
Just a thought, was the 158 grain listed as a swc? (semi wad-cutter) That would stick out of the casing like a normal bullet.
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So what about the col? Is this length a max? What about pressures? I'm still confused. If col is so important, why in my load will the bullet be so far into the case. I'm doing a search and try to learn more about col.
JB
I ran into the same thing. I started seating the wadcutter with the beveled end just barely sticking out of the casing. Much better performance with less air in the casing. Sure looks funny that deep, but I believe that is how they are made to be loaded. My most accurate load was 3.1 grains of W-231 with a 148 grain double ended wadcutter in 38 special.
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Hey all, I am starting to look into which case cleaner I should order. What is your recommendation?
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After a year of reloading for my 9mm major
with range brass, I've just started sorting by
manufacturer (really mostly Winchester vs
any other, although I'm keeping the Remington
out separate as well).
Not sure, though, if I have a Winchester nickel
plated brass, is that The Same as the Win brass,
and can I throw it in together? Or are the
dimensions slightly different (different powder
capacity)?
I chrono'd five rounds of the sorted brass and got
Very close velocities (TruBor with WW brass,
115 gr Montana Gold JHP and 8.5 gr HS6 at 1.15"
OAL). Have to wait for the rain to end to try another
larger batch of same cartridges.
My last batch (last year) with Zero 115's, unsorted
range brass and same powder, OAL - velocities were
all over the place, but accuracy was very good???
Jack
Hmm, I've been sorting my 38/357 brass as well. I don't have a crono so I can't evaluate it that way, but with the off brand I can see a bulge in the casing at the base of the 148 gr double ended wadcutters. It is so thick that they won't fit in the .357 case gauge. I have been shooting them up in my S&W M&P 340 snubby. They will not load into my Ruger Security Six.
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(moved out of the beginner section)
People have posted about using those Black and Decker Work-mate benches...setting up in a closet...having the press mounted on a 2x10 and then C-clamping that to a table top when needed...
Flex, I like your new avitar!
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I am using a Black & Decker Workmate 400 that I got at a yardsale. I took an old coffee table top that we found beside the road on trash day, and bolted it to the top of the Workmate. My Dillon 550 is bolted to that. Relatively stable for the rate that I reload. Tool heads etc. store nicely on the lower shelf. Look on Craigs List in the tool section. I got another one last week for the garage. Good luck!
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My DW PM7 is my go to single stack. It's rock solid platform to tweak and build on and to me is one of the best bang for buck 1911's under 1k only rivaled by the STI Trojan.
Here's mine in action...
Watched the video. Good job! THanks.
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+1 on S&S Castings. They shipped the next day and were good quality. Just loaded the last of my wadcutters, I am going to order some more tomorrow.
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Thanks for the ideas. I've never had this happen so I didn't know the cure. I'll give these a try and see what I can do.
Let us know what works please.
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When mine does that, there has always been gunk underneath the primer. It makes me cringe when that primer catches! Nothing like scraping something across an explosive device!
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My DW PM7 is my go to single stack. It's rock solid platform to tweak and build on and to me is one of the best bang for buck 1911's under 1k only rivaled by the STI Trojan.
Here's mine in action...
That is beautiful! Thanks for the inspiring picture. The local shop said they should have one in this week. Am going to stop by and check it out.
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Shell Plate may be too loose. Snug it down and back it off 1/8th turn before you lock it with the set screw.
Alan~^~
Good idea, that will make sure they are aligned. I'll take the bottom apart today and check the ball.
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Are you using the correct buttons for the caliber you are loading?
CYa,
Pat
Yes. I checked the Dillon chart to make sure. #2 shell plate & buttons for 38/357.
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Shell Plate may be too loose. Snug it down and back it off 1/8th turn before you lock it with the set screw.
Alan~^~
Good, tried that. Will see if that helps.
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I have to watch every time the case comes up to the powder funnel. Sometimes it will catch on the edge of the case and crimp the edge. It is like the case is tilted too far toward the front of the machine. I loosened the powder die nut and slid the whole die as far over in the threads as it would go, then tightened it down. That has helped, but I still have to watch it. If not, it will destroy one casing per 50 rounds. That is no big deal except for the fact that it has a live primer in it at that stage, and I hate to waste a primer!!!
Anyone else have this problem? Thanks in advance.
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Hi all, I stopped in the local shop the other day to talk 1911's and Don told me to check out the Dan Wesson Pointman Seven when they get another one in stock. Anyone out there have one? What are your opinions? Thanks in advance.
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I am starting to see small pistol primers show up at the local stores here in North Carolina. They will only sell 500 at a time instead of a box of 1000. That beats out of stock all together. At least I can still keep shooting. Maybe things are turning around.
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Even when using silicone or wax based compounds such as NuFinish and other automotive/marine products I still suggest using some sort of case lube, Frankford Arsenal, Hornady One Shot, Dillon or equivilant product.
Do you use case lube with pistol brass?
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Thanks guys, this all helps tremendously! now I have a better idea of where to start. My manuals do not have much info on WST. Have the new Speers manual back-ordered from BE, should be coming in June hopefully. I am keeping a list of the recipes & comments in my notebook. Keep 'em comin'! This forum rocks!
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Revolver Recipe's:
125 Gn Speer JHP - 4.4gns WST - Very Accurate
148gn HBWC - 3.0 gns WST - As good as W231 or Bullseye
135gn BNWC - 3.7gns WST - Very Accurate
148gn DEWC - 3.3gns WST - Good Target load at 25 yards
Th only troubles are the smoke... and the "corn".
What do you mean "corn"?
38/357 loads
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
I shoot 38 special for plinking in my 357's.
3.7 gr WST powder with 158 gr lead rnfp from S&S Castings 1" grouping at 7 yards shot single action with Ruger Security Six: Most accurate load tested yet. (I still need to load up a bunch and test to make sure that I wasn't just in the Zen Zone! Am cleaning the casings right now with new Dillon Tumbler that I just got from Brian.)
4.3 gr 231 powder with 158 gr lead rnfp from S&S Castings
3.2 gr 231 powder with 148 gr lead DEWC from S&S Castings