bball97
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Posts posted by bball97
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Yes, I do have the Dillon 9mm case gauge. I am probably a little anal, but I check every round and remove any wax from the bullet with my fingernail before I put it in the box to take to the range.
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Thanks rshew, can't wait to try them out. I tried the loaded round in the dismantled barrel and compared it to the factory round and it appears to be plenty far from the rifling.
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I have been reloading for revolver for several years now and am getting into autos. My Dad bought a CZ 9mm a year ago and I worked up a load that worked well for him: 3.5 Gr. Solo 1000 with Hard cast lead 125 gr. bullets from Reloads & More. The OAL was 1.139. Lansinoh Lanolin (for breast feeding mothers) was used for case lube on the outside of the cases.
I just purchased a Beretta 92fs and shot several magazines worth of ammo to try it out. The factory Blazer Brass FMJ 125gr & 115 gr cycled fine without any problems. The reloads had (2) failure to feeds per magazine. The bullet would lodge with the lead facing up and above the entrance to the barrel. They cleared easily and when I put the bullets back in randomly placed with a mag of factory ammo, they cycled fine.
Here is what I have done so far: I loaded another 15 rounds with the identical set up but I used Dillon Case Lube and was careful to wipe off the case lube with a rag.
I have also loaded 30 rounds with the same powder charge and increased the OAL to 1.158 which is .002 shorter than the factory rounds. I used Dillon Case Lube and was careful to wipe off the case lube with a rag.
Am I on the right track, or should I try something else?
It will be several days till I can get to the range to test what I have done so far, so I have time to load up some other things to test.
Thank you so much.
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I got 2+ grs if I shook the dispenser followed by >1gr on following throws.
Things that work for me when using bulky powders: After you fill the hopper, drum your fingers against the side. You'll see the powder start to settle. Throw about ten charges without weighing and dump them back in, and then start weighing. Bulky powders just take a while to settle.
A newer powder that works well for loads that traditionally used Bullseye and 700X is Winchester Super Target (WST). WST's burn rate is in the same ballpark, it's about the same price, and it meters really well...and it was originally marketed as a shotgun powder, so there's lots of shotgun data for it too.
+1 for WST it meters as well as 231!
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here are some videos of me shooting ipsc, im mainly looking for critisicm here or advice and ideas that i might not have thought of or not looked at in a certain way. they are from oldest to newest. I know there isnt much way to tell how accurate i am shooting which is a huge part of the whole thing but any constructive comments are appreciated. I will probably update this thread with new material when possible. Im not sure how much shooting ill be able to do after this month but i have a couple more matches at least.
please post any of your own videos or other helpful videos here if you like. thanks.
oh also if you need to know anything related, please ask.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrAAQfjAYAY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCupdW062XM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVvaMg0GvnE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9q5iUW4LTc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFTfirmdwiU
I haven't done that myself yet, but it sure looks fun! Maybe that loud music was distracting! HA. Keep shooting...
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I like cleaning my pistols: its a bonding experience.
I agree!
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Hello all,
Just started loading last year and am enjoying the heck out of it. So far I have loaded for 30.06, 270 and 243 and am working on setting up for my Nagant pistols.
I collect military surplus rifles and am a knife collector. Nice being here.
Welcome! I was raised in Waukesha. You'll enjoy the info on this site.
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Great article super dude!
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I have been shooting lead for years in 9mm and .45 and I would not trade it for anything. I use powders that are among the fastest available and I have not had any issues.
I used Clays for years and have since switched to Accurate's Solo 1000. My loads make power factor, are soft shooting, and they don't smoke too much. I also used moly coated bullets in the past and I am going back to them because they don't gum up the dies as much.
Lead bullets are absolutely perfect for outdoor shooting.
OK, can you recommend some quality lead or moly to use with Solo 1000?
yes. Call bear creek supply at 209-874-4322
They don't have a website anymore but nobody makes a better Moly bullet, trust me.
If you want bare cast lead, hit up my friend Jim's website at www.snscasting.com
+1 on SNS Casting. Prompt shipping and good prices.
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How do I know when there is enough or too little flair on the brass? Can anyone provide any close up pictures? I'm reloading 9mm right now.
Thanks
I had a little trouble figuring it out at first too. Couldn't find any pictures either. I just tried to get by with the minimum and shaved some plating off. Adjusted it a little bit and badabing, perfect. I agree with everyone. I like to have just enough to stand the bullet, but not shave off any lead or lube. It is enough to feel with your fingers. Some times there is a little variation in the size of the cast bullets, but a little twist will get it to stand straight enough to start the seating process. Good luck, have fun and be anal about safety!
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I have loaded in the thousands with a 550 as well by now. I am an inspecting fool I think. When I pick it up I look for flaws. When I tumble I look again for rocks, crap, etc. and sort out military brass. When I load I have gotten in the habit of flipping the brass with my wrist to read the headstamp, this will flip any corn out, plus I feel for any obvious imperfections. Then I casegauge it all and look for high primers. That sounds like alot in print but it really amounts to paying close attention while reloading.
I have for a fact loaded quite a bit of 9major brass. As long as I pay attention and just load mouse fart loads it has not been a problem for me. You can just tell sometimes when to not load a piece of brass.
I also never advance the loader without verifying powder is in the case. I do this with the help of enough lighting to perform surgery and bifocal safety glasses.
I might be anal but so far my loads have been nearly perfect.
+1! Quoting Earnest from the '80's: "You Cain't Be Too Careful!"
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I have few different primer types and I'd like to do a little comparison between them. What sorts of things would be valuable to someone making a primer purchase? For example, besides ignition failures, maybe depth of firing pin indent? Does a regular primer affect velocity significantly? Anything else?
Thanks!
Leam
I agree with everyone so far. I have used several brands and can't tell the difference in anything but appearance.
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I'm at a new jobsite that's close to home, so I'm planning to start riding my bike to work. The plan right now is to take an easy ride in (so I don't get sweaty) and then take a long route home as a form of regular exercise. The long route will be a mixture of city streets and rides through dirt fields and sandy washes/streambeds with some minor jumps, etc. I don't expect to be doing any "extreme" riding, but I do want equipment that will last.
My parents were able to pick up for me a used Giant Iguana from a widow for a fair price. I haven't seen it yet, but the only "iffy" feature from what they describe is that it still has solid front forks. Can anybody recommend some replacement suspension forks that wouldn't be too expensive but will also stand up for the long run? I've done a little research and the Tenneco 33 TST2 seems well rated ( http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/detailSP...IDOggetto=56470 ) but at close to $300, the price is giving me a knot in my stomach! Any advice?
Thanks,
J
+1 on riding it the way it is. Then upgrade to a better bike that fits your needs & interests if you keep riding it. I started with a yard sale Trek for $30 and years later bought a Klein on sale after going over the handle bars several times on single track trails. Now after not riding it for a year, I wish I had the $ to spend on a 1911! Ha...
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How often do you disassemble and clean your dies? How can you tell when they are dirty? Clean more often with lead vs plated/jacketed? I am new to metallic loading and am pretty damned anal about the way I take care of my equipment.
Thanks.
I cleaned mine the other day because I have been loading lead. (2500 rounds) The bullet lube had built up some, so I scraped it out with a letter opener. Good to go! I also have to scrape the lube out of my case gauge to keep the rounds from sticking in it.
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S&S Castings in Illinois: http://www.snscasting.com/ Check them out, great prices & quick delivery.Just wondering where everyone is getting bullets from these days. Looking mainly for lead bullets, but if you've got a really good deal that's not lead you want to brag about feel free.Lookin for deals.
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Does anyone know the max load for a moly 147gr?
The chart I have says:
9mm bullet weight 147 grains (doesn't specify moly)
start load: 2.7 grains (775 - 850 Fps)
maximum load: 3.0 grains (825 - 875 Fps)
One of the guys on here said he uses 3.3 to 3.4 grains Solo 1000 with 147 grain black bullets
Good luck & be careful. I have not started loading 9mm yet, but will definitely get Solo 1000 when I do. It is well liked on this forum.
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Does anyone have a load for Solo 1000 with a 115gr cast lead bullet?
Thanks,
-Kyle
What caliber are we talking here?
9mm start load is listed as 3.7 gr (975-1025 fps)
and max load: 4.2 gr (1050-1125 fps)
Sorry, caliber is 9mm. Thanks bball97, that is the info I was after.
-Kyle
Here are the websites, I forgot to send them with my note.
http://www.handloads.org/loaddata/default.asp
http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
http://www.loaddata.com/home/index.cfm?CFI...FTOKEN=43258824
I am pretty sure one of the guys on here has the old Accurate Powder manual that I was able to copy.
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Does anyone have a load for Solo 1000 with a 115gr cast lead bullet?
Thanks,
-Kyle
What caliber are we talking here?
9mm start load is listed as 3.7 gr (975-1025 fps)
and max load: 4.2 gr (1050-1125 fps)
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I know that there is no such thing as a cure-all. I'm shooting lead in 9mm, .38 Super, .40, and .45. Is there single powder that is relatively clean burning that is a decent choice for all of these or am I stuck with having to buy different powders?
ganderman
I've been using W 231 and just switched to WST when I started loading lead bullets because everyone said it is less smokey. Can't tell any difference on the smoke, but it seems to be a little more accurate in 38 Special.
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I've heard it will be a year before things might go back to normal.
I'll never have less than 40,000 primers again.
Ha, I hope you wait until 3 months after the shortage ends to order them. Or better yet, there are some guys selling some on Gun Broker at today's high prices. Me, I'll just keep stopping at the local gun shops and pick them up 1000 at a time as they come in. Pretty scary stuff.
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I agree with all the suggestions already posted. As a home builder, the gun safe door swing direction would be a concern. (just like refrigerator doors) If you do make the 650 bench narrower like Justsomeguy suggested, it would allow the door to be opened all the way to the right. Good luck, what a great room size for reloading. Do a search on bench design, there are some cool setups that people have on here. If there is a Habitat for Humanity Re-store in your area, that is a great place to look for cabinets that people have taken out of their kitchen when they remodel.
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Very nice grips Carl! How durable is ivory?
By the way - I carried the LB with the new grips today for the first time...smooth was the right choice.
HI.
Glad you are liking your grips.
You ask about the durability of Ivory. It is fairly durable, not as much as wood but it would take a fairly hard blow to damage them. They get more durable with age, when I say age, I mean the time after they are made. This pair was premium Ivory, some of the best I have seen in years. I now have a supplier that I can trust to cut it the way it is supposed to be cut. Like I have said before cutting Ivory is an art in itself. These grips to be appreciated, must be held in your hands. No words can describe the beauty of them.
Keep in touch
Beautiful grips! Thanks for the pictures.
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Thank you for all the valuable information. I just polished 4 batches with Lyman corn cob media, & some Nu-Finish. Can't believe how good they look! I threw in a box of long grain white rice that I found yesterday for good measure. Happy shooting...
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Thank you all. I just received the small Dillon unit & media separator, ordered from Brian. It came quick but was missing one of the rubber feet. One call to Brian, and he had 2 new feet sent out the next day. Great customer service, and the unit is quiet. 1 to 1-1/2 hours with corn cob media, and the cases come out looking like new. I have polished all of my cases and am enjoying loading again. Thank you Brian!
? Reasons for Failure To Feed Beretta 92fs hard cast lead RN 125gr
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Ok, just returned from range. Not a scientific experiment by any means, because I only fired 15 of the old shorter rounds and 30 of the longer OAL loads. I kept the powder the same for both loads.
No failure to feeds for all three magazines.
So, here is my conclusion:
1. The longer OAL sure doesn't hurt anything, so I will keep it that way.
2. I am not happy with my groupings but only started shooting this automatic and am used to revolvers. I might continue to test different loads to see if any of them are more accurate than others. (As I get more comfortable with the firearm) Right now, I am at the top end of the powder range from my research for Dad's CZ auto.
3. The one thing that I did different than the first time to the range is that I wiped down each round to remove the sticky lanolin case lube. My theory is that the lube was slowing down the feed a little in the magazine.
SO, hopefully problem solved. Thank you all for your help. I am happy with this gun!