ddeaton

Thanks, I will call tomorrow. I just figured they would be linked somewhere for sale.

Associated Design, Inc. (3101 Lien Street, Rapid City SD 57702) Makes a white nylon 45acp moon loader with a feed chute and rotary knob. Good write up about it in the newest Handloader mag but no web link and google came up with no good results. Anyone have any info on where I can get one of these from? Looks like they work pretty slick.

I just got back from the range with my first shots through my new ProChrono digital. I am interfaced with my small laptop and everything worked flawlessly. I love the USB interface and tonight I will export the strings I shot today. I need to work through the learning curve with the pc program next. Dont know yet what I can export and what I cant. I shot 3 strings with 3.5 gr titegroup, 4.0 gr titegroup, and factory Fiochi hard ball. This is like coming out of the stone age using this. I have been trying to get a second hand Pact Pro working for the last 2 yrs.

I just ordered one with the USB interface. Anyone using a laptop at the range?

thanks guys, I will start my search. I have 2 new 9mm round nose molds, custom from group buys. I havent cast with them yet and they have been sitting around for a while. I think they are midrange in weight.

Thanks GMan. Thats what I am afraid of, it will be addicting. Lyman's handbook has some good info, looks like I can use some of my 9mm molds and size accordingly. What nose profile feeds well? roundnose and truncated cone I assume?

I reload and shoot about all the popular pistol calibers with 45acp being my go to round. I am about to kick myself in the head, as today I brought home a new Series 80 in 38 super. Now I have to spend more than what I paid for the pistol for another caliber change. Brian is going to like me. I plan on some Starline brass, but what bullets and loads should I use for some first time test loads? I dont plan to shoot this in any games at the moment. I cast my own bullets for all my calibers and will wind up eventually getting a mold for this. I am about to dig into the reloading manuals.

I am with you there brother. I am prepping all brass first with Dillon small base sizer and then bumping the neck back with a Redding die. I then tumble and run through again with different tool head to seat primer, throw powder, seat, and then crimp the bullets. So far so good. I spot check with a case gage. I have about 5k of fed brass once fired and if I dont bump the neck down on this stuff it wont pass the case gage. I have no clue what it was fired from. Hopefully I wont have to bump the neck after I fire in my rifles. Will see.

I am now up and running on my 650 loading 223. It has been a learning curve setting up rifle calibers on a progressive. I prep in one toolhead and load in another as stated in another post. I cut the spring down on the detent ball to keep the powder in the cases. (Thanks for the tip and it works great) Any more tips? I am loading some practice stuff for the AR now to get used to it and then plan see how tight I can hold things for the bolt gun. I had a little trouble holding spec on OAL, but I think most of that was cheap 10yr old bullets, some old mil spec I had laying around.

I just went through the same issues tonight with my 650. I set up one toolhead with a sizing die and a shoulder bump die. I run my brass through to prep, then trim offline and stash these back for loading. My second toolhead has my seating die and factory crimp die installed. Can I get as consistent as stated in earlier posts with just 2 dies in the toolhead? I ran the seating die down enough to compress the shellplate so it just bottoms out. I found some 55 gr fmj bt in a bulk bag that are about 10 yrs old. Price on the bag was $15 per 500. I started with these tonight and my OAL was all over the place also. I got fed up and quit for the night. I will try with some match bullets tomorrow and see if it helps. Also, when the holder indexes, a little powder is thrown from the case mouth as the ratchet catches. I dont like that either. Not good for accuracy.

Guys, thanks for the tips. I am getting used to my 650 now with the rifle caliber. I received my Dillon 223 dies and set up my sizing head. I still have to use a Redding bump die for the shoulder to get headspace to spec. I spray cases in a plastic bag with alcohol diluted liquid auto wax and dump out on a towel to dry to a haze. I dump them into the case feed hopper and start cranking the lever. I cant believe how fast this thing preps the cases. I then trim on a Girard trimmer (if I spelled it right) and fill up a gallon bucket in no time. 30 minutes in the tumbler to get the wax off and these puppies are ready to load. I have John Widden's powder funnel setup for the toolhead, havent tried it yet. I dont know if I will use it or not. I will weigh charges for my bolt gun and setup the powder throw and seat die on the second tool head for my gas gun. I am liking this a lot. I didnt know these presses were so versatile. Many different ways of getting it done. Again, thanks for the tips. And Brian, I will be ordering parts to set up for 38/357 soon.

I bump the neck with a neck die after resizing with a Dillon carbide full length on all my 223/5.56. they now fit all the chambers I have; 223, 223 Wylde , 5.56(all gas guns)...before I added the neck sizer I was having small problems with cases fitting, but no more. I load a lot of it for 2 shooters in 3 gun... jj Thats what Im talking about. I do the same. I have 5k of once fired Fed non-military brass fired from I dont know what. I have to bump the neck back down to get spec in a case gage. I also run the prepped brass in my Rem 700 chamber and see how the bolt closes. I ran the full length size and measured headspace with the Hornady gage before and after the size on 10 cases last night. The full length size didnt bump the neck hardly any at all. I then ran them through the Redding body die and bumped the neck back as much as I needed with plenty of adjustment. I still dont understand how others are loading with 1 step sizing and not having problems. I am getting ready to try some LC military and wonder what this will bring, aside from primer pocket swaging?

Are you guys able to bump the neck enough to pass the case gage with the Dillon dies? The reason I ask, is all I have now as far as a full length 223 resizing die, is 2 sets of Lee. They resize ok, but dont bump the neck enough even with the die adjusted against the shell holder. I use a Redding body die which just bumps the neck, as a separate step. Is this just a issue with the cheap Lee dies? I dont hear anyone on here having any issues with 1 step size/deprime. What am I not understanding here? I get anal with my bolt gun reloads, only neck size, single stage loading. I am wanting to prep some cases on the 650 in some numbers for the gas guns.

Thanks for the heads up

I dont think the Lee die will bump the shoulder at all, I use both dies when prepping brass for my bolt gun. I want to load for the gas guns (AR15), and havent loaded for them yet. I have to bump the shoulder back on the once fired stuff to headspace in the bolt guns. I guess I am wanting to know if the Dillon carbide rifle dies would benefit me?

I set up my used 650 with a 223 conversion. I dont have a Dillon 223 die set so I used my Lee full length sizing die to try it out. With the die almost touching the shellplate it wont size the brass to fit the case gage. I can run it through my Redding shoulder bump die and all is fine. Will the Dillon sizing die resize the cases back to specs? These are all once fired commercial cases from who knows what. What is everyone using?

not as well as say h335 H335 it is then, I have an 8lb jug of it. I use Varget in my 308 bolt gun. I just ordered a case feeder and some accessories from Brian, looking forward to getting this going.

Cool, thats what I thought. I am glad I just bought this used 650. Gave me the chance to tear it all apart, clean, lube, and get it running from the ground up. My older 650 has been running out of the box with minor adjustments for about a year now. I will take some time now to tweak on it. Although it has been running well. You only start to understand these after a good teardown.

How tight should this be? From the factory mine is pretty loose. On a used one I just bought and tore down, cleaned, lubed and put back together, I cranked it down till tight and backed off till I could move fairly easy. Not a lot of slop. How do you all keep yours adjusted?

How well does the measure throw Varget?

I ordered a floating tool head from John Whidden set up with a funnel in one station. He claims you can weigh charges and dump them pretty fast with this setup. I am going to give this a try. I am more wondering if I can run the waxed cased through the case feeder without getting it all gunked up and needing cleaned all the time. Dry wax really shouldnt hurt anything.

I have been loading 45acp on my first 650 for a couple yrs and am very happy with it. I just bought a lightly used 650 set up for 223. Loading rifle caliber on a progressive is going to be a learning curve. I trim rifle cases with a Girard trimmer which kicks butt, so I need to process brass in stages. My thinking is that I will decap and resize only the first time through, then trim offline. Last I will run them through the 650 again with a second tool head set up for powder charge and seating/crimping if needed. Does this sound logical? Next question, I lube cases with alcohol diluted wax sprayed on cases in a baggy, then laid out to dry before running through the sizer. What do you all think about running these waxed cases through the case feeder? It would sure speed things up. Am I way off base here, any suggestions would help?