JsK
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Posts posted by JsK
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I didn't really care for this balance with the light. I couldn't get enough weight in the grip or light enough recoil spring to offset the mass so I was throwing second shots low. Not really worth it in my opinion.
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The worst possible thing I did was shove a bunch of heel raising insoles into my shoes. They might give temporary relief but they just make the problem worse.
Get your heel down as low as possible. For a long time in was wearing speedcrosses without the insole.
Yes there is an acclimation process so stretches, tennins ball,massage through the calf , ice ect can all help but realigning the muscle and tendon structure so it doesn't cause the problem in the first place is the only real way beat it and not simple cover it up.
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115 MG JHP
11gr AA#7
1.240 OAL
115 MG JHP
9.6gr HS6
1.240 OAL
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The Arredondo powder bar should come to big to fit in the powder measure. Its designed to be hand fit by the end user.
If your still spilling with the Arredondo bar you took off to much material and you will have to build it up with tape and try
again. It prob took 20 minutes to get mine all together but it doesn't leak at all and throws 11gr right on the money with boring
consistency.
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What Buffer and what tube are you using? I almost always find something else besides buffer combinations is causing ammo sensitivity . If its
Properly setup it should run any bullet weight.
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Detonation is kinda like cold fusion. you hear a lot of authoritative comments until there actually required to reproduce the event under controlled conditions and then its all about how difficult it is. Honestly I have never heard 9mm mentioned in any detonation discussion anyway, its not a case with a lot of extra volume to begin with. Loading below 125pf is pretty counter productive anyway unless your trying to come up with steel challenge load. Biggest problem with fast powders and 9mm carbines is bullets getting stuck in the barrel.
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On 3/17/2020 at 10:23 AM, barrysuperhawk said:
Ok, so I am looking for a regular 16" barrel that has the protruding ramp that supports the front of glock mags, and is actually in stock.
I found this, but I have never seen it in stock, and as invested as Tim is in the 5.25" rifling concept I suspect that it might not ever be again.
https://taccom3g.com/product/extreme-feed-16-9mm-barrel/
Before I whip out the tig welder and start screwing with my existing barrel, do I have any other options? What should I be searching for? Does anyone have a take off the would be willing to sell or even loan me so I can get a pattern? Any suggestions on the type or grade of steel I might choose to build this with?
Have you called Shooting Innovations? There ramped barrels are some of the best in the business.
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Spend the money and build it right the first time. There not finicky if you use proven components. Qc10, Gibbs, FTM there are several lowers when paired with known barrels(shooting inovations) will provide a trouble free gun.
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Gibbs has everything a left handed shooter needs
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Run the heavier springs in the trigger.
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Many thousands of rounds through my 2 Hyperfire 24c triggers. Simple and reliable. Take that stupid shoe off though and just use the straight trigger.
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By contrast holding at the top perf gives hits from 7 -10-15 with a single hold with a 25yrd zero. Move out past 15 and it's all center eye box holds and A hits.
Pcc hit factor should be somewhere between 6-9 for the average shooter so even a half second pause negates a double alpha. At that point you might as well just throw 2 Charlie's fast and move on. If you can get fast As on difficult head box targets it goes along way toward winning.
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So let's move past long range for a minute since that's obviously a different discussion .
So here is a plot for a 15yrd zero. Assuming we are aiming for the 2" head box you would need multiple different holds inside 15 yards as no single aiming point keeps the standard 7- 10- 15 yard shots inside the head box.
Move past 15 and it's the same out to 25. Multiple different holds to stay within 2" head box
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46 minutes ago, ck1 said:
I'm not trying to be snarky or argumentative here, but I was having trouble grasping the phenomenon you're describing with 9mm rounds shooting so high at 100yrds that one would have to hold at the bottom of a plate rack (say 3 feet-ish low) to hit a plate... because well, physics.
I think I get what you mean by "crank the dot down" (i.e. dialing elevation to bring the POI up/down to match POA, hit "x" when aiming at "x"), but since height-over-bore is taken out of the equation once set at a given zero distance, that really shouldn't have anything to do with anything... and since trajectory is trajectory and ballistics is ballistics, and we know what an average 9mm round is going to basically do trajectory/ballistics-wise: the only explanation for what you're describing is zeroing at like 5yrds, not 10-15.
In fact, with my load, if I zeroed at 5yrds I'd be 34" high at 100.
I'm not debating what's the most practical or efficient zero, because I don't think there is one; it's up to the individual and one's own personal preference. Of course one could argue that a 25yrd zero is best, but only if that individual doesn't mind printing low and having a hold-over on everything out to 25. To each his own. But one preferring a closer zero in order to not always have a hold-over to factor and usually be between 2 inches up/down on the majority of targets isn't wrong either.
So again I am asking have you actually checked your zero at these ranges and what are you using as a bore height offset in your ballistics program? Your talking theory and I shoot both at 25 , 50 and 100 every time I check the zero because of what disciplines we use them for. As I said 3ft was an exaggeration but 20-24"high is not unusual with really short zeros.
If you dont understand how much difference height over bore makes in the trajectory past your initial zero than I think that's our disconnect.
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I have a short section of rail attached to my wife's and my PCC because we use a flashlights and bippds so often. Makes a nifty index point. Grip and stance play as much of a part to.
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My wife shoots both USPSA and 3gun with her pcc. Like alot of people I started with the short 10-15 yard zeros but with the 2.75 to 3" height over bore you have to crank the dot down so far that its shooting 8" to a foot low at 50 - 100yrds. Considering this is a common engagement distance we changed her over to a 25yrd zero and I switched my pcc shortly after. Yes 3ft is an exaggeration but running our 3gun club i have seen many guns shoot so high at 100 yards the aiming at the bottom of plate rack. Everything we had learned was confirmed when we took maxs class. Sure you can zero at any distance and memorize your holdovers its entirely possible but is it practicle.or the most efficient?
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11 minutes ago, ck1 said:
IDK mang.
Zero wherever you want as long as you know your hold over/under's with your gun/ammo... it's just personal preference and remembering not to forget about your sight-over-bore distance. Personally, for USPSA, I run a 15yrd zero because on most stages the majority of targets are going to be bewteen 7-20yrds, and a 15yrd zero puts me at just about an inch low at 7 and an inch high at 25 with my setup (-/+ 1.3" to be exact), so I don't really need to think about it much as long as I do my part. YMMV.
That said, IDK where you're getting "3ft high at 100"..? My gun/ammo setup with the same 15yrd zero puts me only 1.2" high @ 100yrds. The bullet does start to drop quickly beyond that though, so I would be about 2.5ft low @ 200yrds, one hell of a holdover (but still probably a doable morter-shot on a man-sized steel plate with a few tries lol).
I don't reload like most around here, mostly shoot the Federal Syntech USPSA/PCC-specific stuff at matches (130gr 1140fps, 148pf out of a 16" barrel supposedly), which is still soft AF out of my MPX, but probably a bit hotter than some. Even if one was scraping the power-floor (say130-133pf) with a 15yrd zero they'd still only be just over an inch low/high @ 7 and 25, 2.5" or so low at 100yrds.
Have you actually tried it or are you just quoting a balistic program?
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5 hours ago, SwedishMoose said:
I think it also depends on which sport you're shooting. 3 feet high at 100 is fine for people who shoot USPSA who are never shooting more than ~25 yards in a given stage.
I think the point your missing is it's one adjustment and that's about 2.5" high from point blank out to about 15 yards after that it shoots to point of aim and has the natural expected hold over at 100yards. Short zeros require you to hold high up close(7 yards and closer) and the require you to hold low on already difficult 25yrd shots.25yrd is just easier.
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9mm upper
9mm bolt
9mm 14.5 or 16" barrel
Muzzle device, check length if your planning a pin and weld
Handguard 13"
Charging handle
9mm lower
Lower pin kit
Lower spring kit
Trigger
Safety lever 45deg
Buffer tube
Buffer spring
Buffer assembly
Grip
Stock
Dont waste your money on a lower parts kit when your not gonna use any thing but the pins and springs. 9mm uppers need no parts kits as they lack doors, springs and forward assit.
The list for the buffer is over simplified because there are so many options it's not realistic to give you a list.
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I would start light, like really light. The 9mm gun will run down under 115pf so I would start around 850fps and work from there. Thats more than likely going to be well under the book minimums so caution is required( make sure there actually leaving the barrel) you would be surprised how many pcc guys have gotten bullets stuck in the barrels with super light loads.
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8 hours ago, obsessiveshooter said:
This is what I'm talking about:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Alloy-FIREPOWER-Base-Pad-Kit-For-IPSC-USPSA-IDPA-SHOOTING-G17-19-22/264348886016?hash=item3d8c6be400:m:mGc9Pb4dtDWLJkLZjyKjwoQ
The three I have work great, and arrived in like 2 weeks or less. $10.36 each, shipped. I suppose I could have spent 4x the amount for each to get three ignominous letters printed on the bottom, but I'm too pragmatic for that.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
And this is why China ignores intellectual property laws. I think I will stick with the MBX or Taylor Freelance .
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25 yards. All shots inside 15 will require a hold over but that's it. With a short 12-15 yard zero you have to remember both a hold over up close and to hold lower at 25 yards. The short zeros get even worse the further you go out, at 100 yards its shooting like 3ft high.
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Seen this sort of damage before. Its from a squib. 45apc and other standard pressure loads just buldge the barrel so its not suprising a major of load would split it apart and take the slide out.
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On 1/26/2020 at 6:47 AM, dogtired said:
Certain brains will shut off the input from the non dominant eye while others have better binocular vision.
I had a terrible time when I first started shooting pcc with cross dominance. I would constantly shoot high left with both eyes open. It took about a year of shooting to retrain the brain to use the right eye. Now I can snap up the pcc and hold on a target and close the left eye and not have the dot shift. I can also shoot my red dot pistols with both eyes open. Doubt I will ever be able to shoot a pistol with iron sights with both eyes open but for any thing with a dot it just takes pushing through the initial problems and retraining your brain.
X5 grip weight
in Sig
Posted
When they start to work loose( move up in the slot) your mags might stop dropping free. Pretty easy to address.