Tul9033
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Posts posted by Tul9033
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Looks like it's a $150 (lowest price I found) and change to order the powder measure, case activated powder drop, and a micrometer insert. Dang!
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Has anyone added another case activated powder drop to their LNL? I'd like to have a whole nother assembly ready for a different caliber and powder which is similar to what Dillon does. However, I really don't want to buy the powder measure and case activated powder drop since that will be a big overlap in parts. I have a few extra case activated lower assemblies for different calibers. It would be nice if I could buy just the upper powder drop assembly just like what comes with the LNL. Is that assembly available?
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks!
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I fixed both these problems by first using a razor blade or box knife to trim the bit of a lip around the hole then hot gluing a piece of plastic from clear packaging material. As to teh primers getting caught up on the hole as the drop I used some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper rolled up to open the hole up a bit and keep it smooth. Both minor issues I had too and easy fixes for both.
I have two problems with the "prototype". First, I have a few primers that flip over as they drop into the tube. This is a deal killer for me. I need to know that the primers are correctly aligned in the tube. I am thinking of shaving down the "walls" of the "channel" between the tray and the tube, then taping or gluing a clear plastic shield across the top. If there is not enough clearance the primers can't flip over. Any ideas on this?
Second problem is that I noticed that the primers seem to stacking up near the top of the tube. My guess is that the primers are catching on the little "shoulder" or "lip" on the inside of the tube (where the pickup tip rests). If I fix the first problem the second may resolve since the primers are slightly beveled on the bottom side. I think, though that before I try this again I will either try to grind off the edge of the shoulder or I will cut the tube below the shoulder.
I really want this to work. All input appreciated.
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Don't leave your Kydex in a hot car, you'll soon find it won't fit your gun & mags anymore.
Hi,
I leave it all in the truck. One time forgetting the stuff was enough for me.
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16 lbs.
What weight is the factory recoil spring?
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No fluke, I was shooting 4.0 TG and knocked it down to 3.9. I have chronoed it quite a few times as well as shooting it at several major matches.
4.5 is surprisingly high. I never really cared for the CMJ, when I did load it my OAL was 1.13 also and at 4.0 TG if I recall. Unless you have feeding problems with the JHP, it's a much better bullet IMO.
I've seen several others on this board in the same ballpark on their Pro's.
Edit to add: My Pro's are with a few PF of my Glock 17.
124 MG JHP and 3.9 TG @ 1.10 is my pet load @ 134PF. Super accurate load out of my M&P Pro,
That's either quite impressive for a Pro or the readings are a fluke. I guess if you have chronoed it enough it must be so.
I have loaded MG 124 CMJ's for two different Pros and could barely make 132 with 4.3-4.5 TG at about 1.13. I guess the bullet profile has a lot to do with it as the oal would not kick it up that much. MG bullets are some of the slowest as are M&P Pro barrels. As a matter of fact I needed 3.8 to make 132 with MG 147's.
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Are you guys having to tumble off the lanolin or Dillon lubes? I would defintlely be using those or Imperial for necked cases, but for pistol brass I use spray one shot just to smooth things out. Spread the cases out on a cookie sheet and give them a good spray, let it dry for a few mins and load em up. One shot won't affect the powder if it happens to get inside the case, not sure about the others.
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124 MG JHP and 3.9 TG @ 1.10 is my pet load @ 134PF. Super accurate load out of my M&P Pro, I consistently outshoot my match mates on the long distance 25+ yard shots. I like a faster shooting load. I've tried other powders, but go back to TG pretty quick. I will experiemnt with other bullets mostly for practice, but buying the 124gr MG in the 3750 bulk box makes it as cheap as most anything out there (full lead may be .01 or .02 cheaper but brings up a whole nother batch of PITAS).
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Bayou's are awfully smelly, almost caustic. Made me wonder if it was bad for me. Berry's switched to all double struck bullets, wonder if that was an attempt to fix some of the issues they were having (accuracy, separation). Berry's as also swaged vs cast, what difference that makes I don't know.
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I use Titegroup sucessfully in 9mm (jacketed),.40 (jacketed), and .45 (moly and plated). Clay's is a great powder for .45 and works well with lead.
I've had a few shooting buddies blow their guns up with Clay's in 9mm. Load it short and you could be buying a new gun. I found it to be super soft shooting in 9mm, but not very accurate.
My personal experience with N320 is it's comprable to Titegroup and can be hard to find in stock. Plus TG is half the cost. TG does eat up my powder hopper.
I plan to give WST a try in some 9mm 147gr moly bullets I have that TG was too hot/smokey for
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I just switched to a 13 lbs. ISMI in my 9mm Pro running MG 124gr JHP @ 134 PF. I did notice reduced recoil, but had one odd failure in about 200 rds. The slide locked back with one rd still left in the mag. I'll prob take DB's advice and switch back to at least my 5K stock spring. The new stock springs are super stiff.
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Used to have this problem quite often picking up range brass that had ben run 9mm MAJOR. Bought the EGW dies for 9mm and .40 and have not had a single reoccurence. It's money well spent. I went from gauging every round to never gauging anymore.
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I found the same thing, while N320 has TG beat in consistency; SD and ES were very tight and accuracy was acceptable. However, TG was more accurate, cheaper, and easy to find. I wanted N320 to be cleaner, but I did not notice a discernible difference against TG.
I also played around with VV N320 but the accuracy was never as good as what I can achieve with TG.
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I've tweaked and modified my LNL over the years to my liking, it works well. One issue I haven't found a fix to is the snap when the shell plate indexes. When loading 9mm it will usually spill a few flakes of powder out as the shell plate move to the next station. I'm certain it has to do with the shell plate settling into the detents. Seems I saw something about needle bearings or a new washer several months back, but the instructions were not very clear.
Has anyone addressed this problem sucessfully?
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I've ben looking at either Cast Acrylic or Polycarbonate. Here is a chemical resistance chart.
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The only issue I see with glass is the powder drop is cast and has 2 lips to hold the plastic tube in.
I wonder if I could find somewhere to get a glass tube for my Hornady loader, that should be non reactive with everything and last longer.
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I've tried compressed air, rubbing alcohol, even bounce sheets(and all 3 together) noting has made much of a difference. Even emptying after each session is only buying a bit of extra time before discoloration and the melting effect sets in, I've had my latest tube in use for 2 weeks.
Hornady sent me 2 new ones at first when I asked. Then I bought 2 more @10 bucks a pop, so I am on my 3rd tube in 3 years. The tube that I had in the longest actually started to sag about a 1/2" leaving it fat and mishappen at the bottom.
If the RCBS material is showing the same symptoms probably not a material issue. However, I would be curious what RCBS has to say. They have always had good support.
Good luck, not sure how easy the chargemaster's tube is to change out or if it's even possible. At least with the LNL it has a metal base and the tubes are only $10.
Well, I sure am glad to see that I'm not the only one having this problem. Not, that I get pleasure from hearing about other folks misfortunes. I really think these companies need to experiment with some different materials that will handle the chemicals in these powders (if) possible. I don't remember any rifle powders causing problems with my ChargeMaster 1500 so far anyone else? Of you folks that have had the same problem, what did you use to wipe off the sticky feeling to the plastic so newly added powder won't stick to it? Alcohol maybe, or did air drying work. I'm thinking about going back to my Win 231 powder again I don't remember having that problem wit it does anyone else? I sure appreciate everyone chiming in as this is a pretty important matter to us reloaders. Thanks!
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My request would be the M&P Pro 5" w/ Bayou 147gr and Titgroup from a ransom.
My usual load is the MG 124gr JHP 3.9 TG @ 1.10 (been trying out 1.11 for a bit of a buffer)
There is not alot of info on the m&p. Maybe I should try WST or WSF. Is there alot of difference in these 2 powders?
Ok here is my M&P pro load data.
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How where the groups?
Just got back from Chrono. M&P Pro 9mm, Bayou 147FP over 3.1 of TG loaded at 1.135 AOL gave me 136PF!!! Didn't feel like 136 very soft.
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Flip the tube over to buy you bit more time. Titgroup eats the tube on my LNL in a matter of weeks even with draining after every session.
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I loaded up a batch of Bayou 147's.
3.3gr Titegroup
1.13 OAL
5" M&P Pro
138.4 PF
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Here's my results:
124gr MG JHP
4.2 VV N320
1.12 OAL
S&W 5" M&P Pro
130.1 PF
While I found VV to be super consistent and accurate it just wasn't putting out the power. Wasn't noticeably cleaner than TG. Costing twice as much and being a stick powder which metered OK I've decided to switch back to Titegroup.
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How does the standard handle compare to the Dillon handle? I have the Dillon on my LNL and that forward primer seating motion aggrevates my tennis elbow. How long is the handle from thread to bend? Don't theink the ergo would work for me, my press is mounted on a high bench so I am lower than most.
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A cortisone shot from my D.O. usually gives me 3 months of relief. Even though many articiles say it won't work, it works for me.
Mine is definitely reloaders/shooting elbow.
9mm MG 115gr FMJ : leading
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Go JHP a much better bullet. The base will be more concentric than the either the CMJ or regular FMJ. The JHP is formed from the bottom up and the others top down.