Alan Adamson
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Posts posted by Alan Adamson
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I've got some Ready Tactical stuff that I really like, but can't quite tell from the pictures if the USPSA model holster would be SS legal, i.e. will it hold the gun high enough that all of the front strap is even, or above, the top of the belt? R,
I have a RT for SS its the USPSA version for SS... while you might not get it from Chris, check Chris' webpage... www.cpwsa.com it was the only way I could figure out what was what...
Alan
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or use AutoComp for both... 4.8g with 124 at 1.090 gives me 133pf in a 4.5" CZ Shadow. 7.1-7.2g at 1.165-1.175 behind the same bullet gives me 171PF in my open gun... The Autocomp load in minor shots softer than the equivalent TG PF load in minor in the same gun.
Alan
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I am in the same boat. Will be working up a load over the winter here for Autocomp.
Been a long time fan on WSF, but DRASTIC changes in PF from Northern New England to hot and sunny NV / AZ is forcing me to change.
I've shot it from the 90's to the 30's and so far no significant signs of temperature sensitivity.
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IS IT STUCK IN THE GRIP OR SIDEWAYS IN THAT MAG WELL?
It's in the grip... has nothing to do with the magwell. In fact, it's worse without it.
JT
Yes, this is a common problem... I've never had it in a match, but a friend who I let shoot my open gun did it 9 out of 10 times... If you don't do it, probably means you are aligning the mag better than those that get one stuck.... One thing for sure, if you can hit a reload on an AL grip, you'll *never* have a problem on a plastic...
Alan
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All,
Stages are all setup... We got it knocked out today... Won't need setup help tomorrow (friday).
I've got about 2 hours of stuff to do tomorrow, but nothing stage setup related.
Thanks to a couple of really great guys there locally and we knock it all out this afternoon!!!
Registration starts at 9am Saturday, new shooters brief at 9:30a, shooting starts at 10:00.
See original post above.
See ya there!
Alan
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Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I was a little leery about the whole concept of 9mm major, but after reviewing this thread and doing some research I'm ready to go blast some rounds I loaded.
My gun is a 5.4" KKM Bull Barrel, no holes, with a Brazos Thunder Comp on it. I'm going to try out some 3N37 and Silhouette. I've got them ready ranging from 7.0 - 7.8 grs to work up with. We'll see how it goes.
MG 124 JHP
OAL: 1.165-1.170"
Mixed Brass
WSP
I would recommend that you stay away from 3n37, 3n38 ok, but 3n37 is very HOT (temp wise) and has caused premature barrel wear as a result. YMMV, but there are much better options - Autocomp, hs6, 3n38, silhouette, etc. IMHO.
Alan
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I'm looking forward to it! The crew and I will be there for sure.
If you are shooting OPEN division... I've got a surprise for you!
Delete message
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MY load at 1.155 with HS-6 is 8.2 grains with a 125 Zero JHP(170 PF). Your results may vary
Ya, Brian runs a shorty at times so not sure which load this is for.... in my case, as mentioned a 5" scheumann with no poppel holes and a 3 port cone comp, 8.1 with a 124g Montana Gold JHP give me right on the mark of 170PF at 1.165.
Alan
ps. see how different load/barrels/comps can be... you have to start low and work it up specifically for your particular equipment, etc.
btw, in my case, I liked either Silhouette or True Blue or 3n38 or sp2 better than HS6, in fact, I liked my Autocomp load better than HS6 again, just different strokes for different guns.
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1.155 OAL max with the spacers
Ah'ha! Thanks, brother. At 1.155, I will still be OK on pressures?
OS
I run 8.1 of HS6 in a 5" no holes gun at 1.165, if you are going to 1.155, I'd suggest you start at that 7.9 amount. But be warned, Berrys bullets are plated I believe and you may have problems peeling the plating off given the velocities you'll be running, better to run a fully jacketed bullet like a Montana Gold or Zero.
YMMV,
Alan
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Ran a bunch more tests today...
SP2
HS6
2 Sil loads with 115 and 124
3n38
True Blue
and my stand by Autocomp load.
Got a new victor after further testing, for both dot track *and* feel... 3 way tie at the moment.
SP2
3n38
True blue
Leaning towards the True Blue load. Both the SP2 and the 3N38 load were so similar that I couldn't tell any difference. The True Blue load however was noticeably better than either the Silhouette load I had been shooting recently (my new favorite at the time) or my standby Autocomp load.
Now to load up a lbs of 3n38 and true blue and do a further test... I do have a bunch of SP2 as well, but it's only for match use if I go to that powder... it really might not be necessary after todays testing however... and NO it's not for sale!
Alan
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I just spent an hour reading postings about
reloading 9mm major
1. AA#7 - 10+ grains fills the
case but better dot movement than
Autocomp or Silhouette. But, stretches
the brass - so not reuseable.
3. Autocomp - horrible for 5.4" barrel (great
for shorties)
4. Silhouette - better than N350, Autocomp, 3n37,
HS-6 & AA#7, but is reverse temperature
sensitive
5. HS-6 - soft and one of the best but dirty.
Thanks,
Jack
Wow, where did you compile that info Most everyone that I know has had very favorable usage from AutoComp in 5" guns.
I have been shooting it for almost a year now with no problems in 2 guns. 7.1gr behind a 124g JHP at 1.165 works just flawlessly. It's similar to Silhouette in feel, but I recently tried 7.76gr of Sil behind the same bullet at the same length and it might track just a smidge better than my AC load.
1) Silhouette (most often referenced of late for both dot track and feel)
2) AutoComp
3) HS-6 - only complaint seems to be how dirty it is
but True Blue at 7.8g with a 124g JPH at 1.165 seems to be in the hunt for me as well.
In my 2 guns, I'll bet I could put any of the 4 in a magazine and you *might* be able to tell a difference, but I'm betting probably not. And in the heat of the battle, maybe even less than that.
The problem with the IMR is that it requires too much powder, is hard to work with in a reloader, and is very inconsistent due to the case fullness...
Hope this helps.
Alan
ps. I would also say that AutoComp is *NOT* good for a shorty, it's a little too fast of powder to run the pressures you need in a short gun... but then I haven't tried it there.
Alan, that's exactly where I got this info from - from looking through the past two years of posts.
Somebody thought that the Autocomp was terrible in a long barrel, but great in a short barrel - sounds
like your experience is different - thanks for the input.
One person, again, mentioned that Trublue was "nasty" but didn't define it. I did see another
reference that it was "better than silhouette".
You rate the silhouette The Best, buy you've been using AutoComp - what is the advantage of Autocomp?
Sounds like it's all Very Personal - I'd better try a few and see what works in MY gun.
Thanks for the help.
Jack
Jack, I just shot my first 300 rounds of Silhouette, still too new to me to be my #1, I've shot over 3K of Autocomp and know it's a good one...but there always room for improvement.
Alan
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BTT - only 2 weeks out, hope to see a good turnout.
Confirmed that Sunday the 24th will be the rain date if needed.
See main post for specifics along with stage descriptions, etc.
email if need more info.
Alan
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I just spent an hour reading postings about
reloading 9mm major - I tried to separate
out only those for the full-sized barels,
not the shorties.
I'm near the end of my HS-6 that I've been
using for three years, and trying to decide
if I should buy a can of something else: So
far, I like the HS-6.
See if I have this straight:
the 124's are softer than 115's (I just
tried the 124's and think so, too)
Five powders seem to be mentioned as "favorites"
more than the other powders:
1. AA#7 - 10+ grains to make major - fills the
case but better dot movement than
Autocomp or Silhouette. But, stretches
the brass - so not reuseable.
3. Autocomp - horrible for 5.4" barrel (great
for shorties)
4. Silhouette - better than N350, Autocomp, 3n37,
HS-6 & AA#7, but is reverse temperature
sensitive
5. HS-6 - soft and one of the best but dirty.
Most of these are seated to c. 1.17" OAL.
Any mistakes or omissions in here so far?
Since I like to reuse the brass (I'm cheap!)
that means I might try IMR4756 next - see if
I can see a difference from HS-6.
Thanks,
Jack
Wow, where did you compile that info... Maybe based on old posts... Most everyone that I know has had very favorable usage from AutoComp in 5" guns.
I have been shooting it for almost a year now with no problems in 2 guns. 7.1gr behind a 124g JHP at 1.165 works just flawlessly. In my guns, It's way softer feeling than AA#10 (which I won't use for the above mentioned reasons). It's similar to Silhouette in feel, but I recently tried 7.76gr of Sil behind the same bullet at the same length and it might track just a smidge better than my AC load.
Based upon my posting, reading, and attempt at the same post as you posted... and based upon some actual usage. In a 5" no holes, bull (so 5.4) and cone (5"), I would say they rank in this order.
1) Silhouette (most often referenced of late for both dot track and feel)
2) AutoComp
3) HS-6 - only complaint seems to be how dirty it is
1,2, and 3 all seem to be order changed depending on who shoots them, but they all seem to be very close together and personal preference.
One other worthy of note... I haven't dont much testing with it, besides some Chrono work and back to back feel tests, but True Blue at 7.8g with a 124g JPH at 1.165 seems to be in the hunt for me as well.
In my 2 guns, I'll bet I could put any of the 4 in a magazine and you *might* be able to tell a difference, but I'm betting probably not. And in the heat of the battle, maybe even less than that.
The problem with the IMR is that it requires too much powder, is hard to work with in a reloader, and is very inconsistent due to the case fullness...
Hope this helps.
Alan
ps. I would also say that AutoComp is *NOT* good for a shorty, it's a little too fast of powder to run the pressures you need in a short gun... but then I haven't tried it there.
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Here's a tip for shooting areas.
draw the outline of it with the pencil, make sure you connect point to point and back to the original starting position... This will create a filled in object.
select all the sides and group it.
Then select the group, edit it and use the offset tool to make the offset be to the inside by 2". Once you have the object inside an object, delete the big one inside, leaving only the 2" wide version of the object, now use the shrink/grow tool and drag the face of the flat surface up 2". Poof instant fault line/shooting box to any side with out having to built it in pieces.
To put start marks down, use the 3D text tool and "X" with 2 or 3 spaces between them. You can then place that on any object or the ground.
Hope this helps.
Alan
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Ok, not much more to report... He's off shooting it tonight at a small weekend night match. We'll see...
All that's really been done is that he polished the inside of the chamber with a polish wheel and some jewelers rouge.
I don't know if he'll shoot his or my ammo, guess we'll see.
I got to thinking today. He and the prior owner (the GM who had this shorty 9Major) both use a hornady sizing die. I use a dillon. He uses an FCD for crimp and I used to, but threw it away (quite literally) and replaced it with a Dillon taper (never looked back).
Could the reloading setup case this failure to extract issue, even if all the ammo passes the EGW and Wilson case gauge?
He's been loading a *really hot* load, mine, well, it's probably 170 PF in his gun (would be probably 175-178 in my 5" with no holes. I've got a hunch that the load is stretching the webbing of the case on some cases (he's using mixed brass altho we've seen this happen in a Win Brass too), and that may be why they are sticking... Another data point... after he fired one of the ones that stuck a few weeks ago, I took the case and tried to drop it in my chamber, it would go about 1/2 way in and then it would stick. Drop it in his and it would go in about 1/2-2/3's and stick.
I suppose we should grab a couple of the ones that run just fine, and a couple that run fine in my gun and do that same test with both guns... Just for kicks, it might tell us what it happening to the brass...
Alan
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Put it back in the case tumbler with corn cob media and a little Brasso for 30 to 45 min, maybe a little less if I'm loading lead rounds.
Brasso? I thought it was ammonia based and as such was bad for brass as in made it brittle over time?
Here's the trick to solve the loading mags problem... Go to walmart and get yourself some NuFinish Car wax (big Orange bottle)... About a tsp or small tbsp in per batch and you'll keep the dust down in the bowl, and your rounds will come out with silicone already on them, and nice and shinny.
Alan
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If you are having to smack the case out with a squib rod I doubt any AFTEC is going to pull that case out.
Yep, kinda what I thought... Now the question is why the heck is it getting stuck in there... it's not a crimp taper issue, not a case gauge issue.... I suppose it could be a *tight* chamber to begin with, but then why is my brass passing the test so far...
Note, I failed to mention one difference in my processing vs his.
I case pro all my 9mm brass, including what I gave him today. His loads did not go through a case pro. However, they pass a very tight case gauge and his barrel... so now I'm lost again.
I hate to bring this up, but might it be his FCD?
Alan
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I vote not enough crimp on the rounds. Been there done that. Major clue here your ammo worked.
Brian, I would generally agree, but the sample size is frankly too small... it might be that in 12 more rounds of mine, he'll get one on my loads, one of his - what he calls the "death jam" - it's not by the way, but we all chuckle when he calls it that.
Ok, more research and struggling required it appears... new Aftec is on the way... Are these things drop in if the gun and FPS have had one prior?
Alan
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Got it on what's happening and thanks to Bart for further clarifying.
Is it possible he's shaving bullets when seating and getting that wedged between the case and the chamber wall, then when the case expands during firing, you've got a nice chunk of stuff stuck in there to lock it in place?
We don't think so, never found any indication of that in the dozen or so times that I've seen this happen while shooting with him.
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Hey Matt, nice to see you here... Brian... too little crimp... now that's a good one... what was the effect?
More info as I just heard back from my friend (who perhaps will dive in here himself).
- All his rounds dropped in and out of this barrel and 2 other case gauges with no assist, fell in and out
- his crimp appears, he's about to mic it and see to be the same dimensionally as mine. However, he's using a LEE FCD (which I despise for all the reasons that have been discussed prior), and I'm using a Dillon taper crimp. My crimp method may be a little unorthodox, but it works. I adjust per dillon instructions, then I do the table smash/press method (nose of bullet pressed as hard as I can against a table, or wood structure, then re-measure OAL, if the bullet had any setback, I tighten the die 1/8 turn and repeat until the bullet doesn't move. But let's not get into crimp methods...
- no nose hitting of the aftec on the barrel
- aftec seems to be fit correctly as well
NEW THEORY
- This is a well shot barrel, 20Kish rounds. To the best of my knowledge it's a Scheumann. Might it be an issue where the chamber is too large, allowing the case to grow when fired to a new outside dimension, and then when it shrinks after firing, it's grown more than the material can respond to and stays larger than desired, thereby creating too much tension to extract. Mind you this might be a *use* issue with brass and a more prevalent problem with multi fired case?
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That sounds correct to me. No flexing of the actual extractor. I think pivot is a good word. The extractor should pivot around the FPS at the rear. Also check for clearance between the barrel and extractor.
ok, that I can check for... makes sense, now that you describe it that way...
Thanks for the time, I'm further educated now
...Alan
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opps, dup, please delete
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If you are looking down from the top of the gun imagine you can see through the slide. The extractor is held fairly firmly at the rear by the FPS. The front must rotate in and out to cam over the rim of the case. The Aftec uses springs to create tension on the case at the front. Because the Aftec is fairly rigid there must be clearance around the FPS to allow for the camming of the extractor around the rim of the case. When looking down from the top the front and rear right side of the FPS must have a radius to allow the extractor to cam in and out. There must also be slightly more clearance from the right side of the FPS to the extractor. An easy way to check this is to remove the springs and backing plate and re-install the extractor with the FPS. Then through the ejection port see if you can cam the extractor in and out without much if any resistance. Let me know if this all makes sense.
So, let me take a shot at this...
so there needs to be a radius on the edge of the FPS, on the side where it slips into the groove on the Aftec, such that the aftec can pivot (probably wrong word - rock) and allow the front of the aftec to move out and in (towards the right and back to the case) Basically, you want clearance around the FPS to Aftec groove, such that you are allowing the springs and backing plate to function, and not just torsional flex in the aftec steel.
Let me say it slightly different, you want the Aftec to slightly *pivot* on the FPS and in order for that to happen, it needs some clearance and radius.
That about right?
Alan
Open Source Shot Timer
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
make sure you setting in applications allows for apps from non media sources (can't remember the exact wording).
Alan