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Rln_21

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Posts posted by Rln_21

  1. Getting a P220 ready for IPSC, what is the recommended springs for:

    Recoil for 165?

    Hammer spring weight to lighten the trigger pull?

    Any other springs to change?

    THX

    Use your factory recoil spring. The Sig factory springs with the twisted coil design are easily the best springs available for the Sig pistols. The twisted coil springs last a lot longer and are more resistant to "taking a set". You should run a 17lb Wolff mainspring, if you have the old style strut and mainspring and boot you may want to upgrade to the new style, it gives less stacking in the DA pull. If you have light primer strikes you can move up to an 18lb mainspring but you shouldn't have any problems unless your running hard primers. You should also change out your sear spring and firing pin block spring for custom lighter ones. PM me for info on Competition Spring Kits for Sig pistols with a Reduced Mass Titanium Firing Pin Block.

  2. Roger shoots his gun really well..can't remember the sights he runs..but otherwise like most production guns it is pretty basic.. resprung, believe it has the short trigger in it.

    couple of other shooters run Sigs..and do well too..neat gun..a gun I would like to try someday..

    I'm pretty sure Roger is running a Warren/Dawson combo, just like the sights on the new Sig USPSA Commemorative model (you can see it on their website). He has a pretty intensive trigger work/action job, lighter springs including 17lb or possibly 18lb mainspring and a custom sear spring and also probably a custom firing pin block spring. It has a custom, short reset mechanism and it was modified to dramatically reduce the DA pull weight mechanically (the mod means that it no longer has double strike capability)... He does not run a short trigger, as stated he does have a custom short reset mechanism which may have been causing the confusion.

    As to the original post, a Sig P226 is a great gun to shoot production with, provided that you are familiar with and know how to quickly run the DA/SA trigger. By quickly, I mean prepping (actually pulling) the trigger hard through the entire draw so that the first DA shot breaks just at the moment that your arms reach full extension in your shooting position, or a tiny bit before. This saves you a lot of time on the initial DA pull, which is the most common complaint about Sig pistols. With a competition spring kit at a minimum, your friend should be able to run the Sig just fine.

  3. Perhaps the most interesting part of the build is the Grayguns signature hardtail conversion. Besides just looking cool it has a very practical advantage in making it nearly impossible for someone to fail to engage the grip safety when preparing to fire regardless of how high they like to grip the frame or the shape/size of their hands.

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    Before I blued the gun I assembled it and ran about 40 rounds through it without a problem which is really the important part B)

    Constructive criticism is of course greatly appreciated...

  4. Ever since I got a job working for Bruce Gray at Grayguns Inc. I have had an interest in learning to build 1911's. While my day to day tasks involve action work on modern combat handguns (mostly Sigs and Hks) the 1911 (or in this case 2011) platform holds a certain fascination for me. This gun was built pretty much on my own, with direction from Bruce of course (he did all of the fine welding for me as well). It is going to be used to shoot Limited, it was left full weight out of preference.

    This started as an STI 2011 frame kit and oversized slide (completely blank except for adjustable sight cut), Barsto barrel, and mostly STI small parts.

    You'll have to excuse the pics, I was using a point and shoot that didn't always focus in the right spot and a cheap light box setup and I couldn't find anything handy to prop up the gun with...

    I left the top and bottom a matte bead blast finish while polishing the flats on the slide and frame with a nice grain texture. I finished the gun myself with our in-house bluing but after it gets run for a while and any necessary changes are made it will be sent for a salt bath nitride finish.

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