Rln_21
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Posts posted by Rln_21
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I just had a XDM in the shop and while the trigger was a little better than the standard XD, as stated, it is nothing to write home about.
If you want a really nice XD or XDm send your gun to Daniel Bachelor at Powder River Precision. Personally I think his parts are the best I have seen for the XD pistols and he can do really nice work on them (I have handled his personal XDm and it is sweet). His parts change the break point on the trigger pull so that the trigger breaks much sooner. The trigger will break when it is still in an almost vertical position, not when it has been rotated around to where it is almost touching the frame. In the end you get a much sooner break- so much less pretravel, a nice hard fitted overtravel stop that is very positive and a really smooth and much shorter trigger pull.
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I work for Grayguns but I am not going to recommend our work one way or the other, there are plenty of others that can give their opinions. I would definitely be hesitant to put too much money into a gun that might not even end up being mine...
However, to answer some of the questions in the thread:
I would not be going for a lighter recoil spring, the Sig factory braided recoil springs are much more durable than a Wolff single strand spring and unless you are tuning it to run with a specific lighter hand load then I would leave the factory spring in there. I would also strongly recommend against using any sort of Shok-Buff or buffer assembly in your Sig.
Since your gun is new then it probably has a really horrible trigger that I would guess would account for your problems with the follow up shots. The brand new Sigs are completely full of MIM parts now and they make for terrible triggers from factory. You have the SRT system so you are almost certainly experiencing a tolerance issue with the SRT sear the we have termed "SRT bump" which really negatively affects the DA pull. In order to combat a tendency for the SRT system to follow since the SRT does not keep the firing pin block safety engaged between shots (like the original Sig DA/SA does), Sig Sauer greatly increased the sear engagement in the full cock notch of the hammer so your SRT system will also more than likely have a very long and creepy SA trigger pull.
The X-5 uses a standard Sig recoil spring (orange for the 9mm and green for the .40/.357) and therefore accepts standard sized Wolff aftermarket recoil springs as well.
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I would definitely be using a Bar-Sto standard bushing barrel for 45ACP...
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At least I got a Chinese knock off of a Surefire flashlight in my goodie bag. Fun match.
See flashlight here
I am pretty sure that the Fenix will match or easily beat any similar Surefire performance for around half the price. I don't know if its Chinese but I would take the Fenix over a Surefire any day...
Man, 15 years in a row is pretty damn incredible
Interesting reading on the minor vs major info...
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CZ SP01 Shadow
in CZ
Randy Lee at Apex Tactical can do some excellent work on the CZ SP-01 pistols. I have shot his personal gun and it was amazing. He can get a 4lb DA pull and a really short reset with the firing pin block still installed and functional so you don't have to worry about it being legal for Production. If you have a Shadow without the block I can only imagine that he can do even better...
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i may be on drugs, but i kinda remember bruce built a sig p-210 steel gun for angelo to shoot at the steel challenge back then as well. it was sweet.
Well I don't know about you being on drugs, but Bruce did build him a P210 back then for that purpose...
if u see him-say hi-we go way back...
Can do, I see him every day...
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i may be on drugs, but i kinda remember bruce built a sig p-210 steel gun for angelo to shoot at the steel challenge back then as well. it was sweet.
Well I don't know about you being on drugs, but Bruce did build him a P210 back then for that purpose...
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So is the long slide only for the addition of the comp?? The barrel looks to be the standard length. Very high cool factor though.
Correct, standard length barrel. The extension is a very large expansion chamber that really slow the slide velocity down and gives it nearly no muzzle rise.
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It will probably be one of the more reliable raceguns. I think it's cool stuff man. Maybe you can wrap some of the grip in rubber where it gets hot or something. How well does that Hakko style red dot hold up on that gun?
I really don't think heat is going to be an issue, we shot 70 rds in under five minutes and the slide was no more hot than any other gun would be. I can't think of very many matches where you would shoot more than that in less time.
That red dot is only a temporary set up for the weekend, I think the customer is going to put a C-More on it...
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WOW, this is one of the craziest guns I have ever seen. Does the frame really heat up? I remember this being a problem out of my P7M8 after only a couple of rounds. How many of these were made?
See the post above yours about the heating issue.
This is the first one made within the last 22 years; in the early '80s Bruce made several although they were not optically sighted, I think he made less than 10, probably closer to 5 back then.
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I recall they get really hot when you put a bunch of rounds through them....makes me wonder how that's all going to work out.
I'm not sure it'll be the most competitive setup, but it's way high on the CDI (chicks dig it) scale!
We put about 70 rounds through it in around 5 minutes and the slide was only starting to get warm where as usually that would get it pretty hot; the extra mass and expansion chamber seems to help greatly in that regard as well.
It won't be the most competitive due to mag capacity but I think a really good shooter who trained with the system could do pretty well.
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The grip doesn't really pose that much of a challenge with some practice. It takes about 10lb of pressure to cock the gun but only 2lb to maintain the grip. You cock it on the way to full extension so there is no time lost there. The one part of that that makes it really fast to run is that the squeeze cocker drops the slide so after a reload you squeeze the grip on the way back to full extension and the slide closes, no slide catch or overhand grasp and release.
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Here goes nothin'. (Notice the 170mm 25rd mag made by welding together two M13 mags).
IT LIVES!!!
Of coarse Bruce got to fire the first shots, Scott got them on video. I know it's a bit dark, it was just about midnight when we got it back together and Bruce had to get on a plane only 1 hour later to deliver it to a customer in MA at one of our training classes. We'll get more daylight videos of it shooting before we ship it off finally. My exclamation in the video was a response to how little muzzle flip there was. I shot a stock one just the day before and I hated how much muzzle rise it had. This one literally hardly moved at all during firing.
Once the customer shoots it this weekend at the training class it will come back for a little more refinement, any changes the customer wants made, and then it will get sent off for Melonite to even up the coloration on the whole gun to a consistent black.
Here is a link to an album with a few more pics from the build:
http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/Flor...0Class%20P7M13/
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Bruce assembling his latest creation.
Finally nearing completion. You can see the masterfully sculpted beaver tail that Torie was commissioned to build. You can't see it real well here, but the back strap has been hand checkered at 30LPI and fully bordered by Bruce himself.
IT IS DONE!!!!!
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This is a one of a kind (for the moment) open gun built by Bruce Gray at Grayguns Inc.
Bruce started building these guns back in the '80s but it has been 22 years since the last one was made.
The last time one of these babies was birthed was 1987, until just last night.... Per a request from a customer, Bruce has agreed to start modifying the P7M13 into a Compensated, Long Slide, Race Gun once again.
Here is a picture of what they looked like in the '80s for open division (I believe it was actually called Unlimited Division at the time).
I thought I'd share some pics with you guys on this truly sweet project.
Here are a couple of the comp being welded to the slide.
Here's a shot of the comp after the ports were milled in. This extremely effective comp is a single, very large expansion chamber with two vertical ports. The barrel is left the stock length.
I was commissioned to build the charging handle for this project.
Scott was commissioned to build the scope mount. He started with a pre existing extrusion and measured, cut, remeasured, swore and cut again until he had a scope mount worthy of such a gun.
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Dave, I think for a buy it and shoot it gun - the SP-01 is hard to beat. I'm just a design and engineering dork, so I much prefer the Tanfoglio layout. If you do go with an SP-01, definitely get one from Angus or Matt - I like to think I'm a pretty good tinkerer, but I can't see how anyone can get the DA lower than about 8lbs, and the SA with the CZ hammer was scary too light on mine. I'll still go for a Stock2 just for the hell of it (if/when I can afford one), it's just too damn sexy (and I despise light rails).
Also, the Stock2 is a small frame gun - the mags, grips, and a few other parts are different between it and your Limited.
I am pretty sure that Randy Lee at Apex Tactical can get around a 4lb DA (reliable) and a really short reset with the firing pin block still installed on the SP-01 pistols. I have shot his personal gun before and it was amazingly nice.
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STI makes good slides and frames although if I were building another gun right now I would probably take a good look at Fusion Firearms frames and slides (quality products from what we have seen and good prices as well).
I would actually probably mix a Fusion forged frame with an STI slide just for kicks...
I've still got to finish my Springfield full build though, too much fitting and not enough time
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Hello,
Where would I go about purchasing a Stock II in the US? Are there any dealers that stock them? What is the current approx. price for one of these? I can't seem to find any info on the EAA website...
How do you guys think these compare to a CZ SP-01 Shadow for Production division?
Thanks for any info,
Roy
EAA Stock is available in US..stock II is only for europe.
There are some from gun broker.
Ahh, didn't realize it wasn't easily available here, thanks..
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Hello,
Where would I go about purchasing a Stock II in the US? Are there any dealers that stock them? What is the current approx. price for one of these? I can't seem to find any info on the EAA website...
How do you guys think these compare to a CZ SP-01 Shadow for Production division?
Thanks for any info,
Roy
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HK P30-L 9mm
in H&K
FWIW...Grayguns.com has just announced that they have finalized a short reset for the LEM triggers...
I'm not associated with them just have my ear to the ground...
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430...35/m/2861065651 <<for more info...
I'm not saying it is legal for comp. ( because I have no idea) but for those of you who like the platform for "other" uses
Very interesting. I'll have to give them a call and see what that's about. I really wish I could play with one before I sent mine off. Mine have so many rounds, the only thing that really is desireable is to shorten the reset, which I guess is what they're addressing. $300 though ... ouch.
FWIW, I believe this would be legal in Limited/L10..
I work for Grayguns and thought I would give a bit of an explanation here. I am not trying to advertise, just responding to the comment "$300 though... ouch".
That seems to be a very common response to our HK competition work (interestingly enough, we never hear that about our Sig work, they are the same prices). I guess HK guys just know they already spent double the value of what a plastic gun should be, so it hurts to pay that much more
Just kidding, don't kill me
(I couldn't resist)As far as I have seen, most smiths working on HK guns offer trigger jobs for around $55-$80. This is fine if it is what you want and can afford, but you have to understand what you are getting. These types of jobs usually entail a mainspring change for a lighter spring, cleanup of the SA notch, and possibly a little buffing/polishing on a few other surfaces if you are lucky. Few of these people could afford to be in business if they spent more than 45 min to 1 hour per gun. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this type of work, it is just not at all what we offer and I sometimes think that we get thrown in the same category because people feel that not much more that can be done on the HK guns (if that were all we did, then yes, our prices would be outrageous).
Our HK competition trigger jobs can take anywhere from 5-8 hours per gun (depending on how rough they are when we start, some can even take more). If you figure that up as an hourly rate, our price is cheap for any type of service industry. We literally work on and improve every removable metal part in the gun. We use a little different approach in that we work for a desired end result without any concern for how long it take to get there with each gun.
The end result is an extremely smooth and consistent DA (no stacking, chatter, grittiness, etc), a smooth crisp SA (with more or less creep as desired), and we are now offering a safe, mechanical reduction in net reset travel of up 50% or more (every gun comes out a little different). Of course, full feed and reliability work is always included and our lifetime guarantee is always in effect.
It is hard to describe the end result in words, the people we have let handle the guns when they are finished usually just say WOW repeatedly, spend 1/2 an hour dry firing, say something along the lines of "I never thought an HK could feel like that"; and then we have to wrestle the gun from their hands and pat them down when they leave the shop.
(OK, maybe that was only a couple guys but it was still funny to see their faces)We can do short reset work on all USP/P30/HK45 in either DA/SA or LEM. The USP Combat Competition LEM I just finished had so short of a reset it literally felt like shooting a 1911, I wish I had timed the reduction in splits, I will on the next one we get in.
I would also like to point out that our work never involves removing factory safety systems, we do not remove or disable the firing pin block safety to achieve a short reset, we have a proprietary mechanical modification we developed to do that.
As for experience, Bruce Gray (the boss) has been working on HK pistols for probably as long as I have been alive. He was a factory sponsored shooter on the HK team for several years, and actually redesigned some parts to fix a problem for a certain HK pistol that ended up being incorporated in their production design, basically he knows what he is doing.
I understand the big pucker factor people feel when they see the prices, I hope this helps explain some of the why and how of the trigger work and pricing.
Mods, if any of this is out of line just let me know and it will disappear. I am just trying to preempt a lot of the general confusion/mis-information we have seen on a couple other forums regarding our work.
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HK P30-L 9mm
in H&K
Rln,I have a USPF 45 with 20k rounds thru it and people are impressed with how clean that trigger is. The only work I did was cutting a few coils on spring.
Doesn't suprise me in the slightest, any handgun with 20K through it should feel much better than stock, especially any HK... Now if you want a short reset, that doesn't happen from dry/live firing unfortunately.
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KG Gunkote has quite a few color options and its not too bad for a spray and bake finish. I think we even have a can of hot pink laying around the shop somewhere...
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HK P30-L 9mm
in H&K
I really like the HK P30/HK45 pistols; I think they are a vast improvement over the USP line. I think they did pretty well on the execution of these pistols; although when I look at them, as a gunsmith, I tend to see what can be improved rather than what HK did well. For the most part, the P30 pistols that I have handled had an unnecessarily heavy and or gritty DA, a mushy SA and a horrendously long reset. These are all typical features of most HK pistols that I have handled so I didn't think it really detracted from the quality of the overall design. With a good trigger job DA and SA can be lightened, smoothed and made crisper respectively. On the P30 design, that hard part is shortening the reset; we are almost done developing a method to achieve that goal but it isn't easy. While the USP is pretty easy to get a wicked short reset with some work, the P30/HK45 design is harder to work with.
One thing I have noticed is that on most P30 guns with really high round counts or thousands and thousands of dry fire cycles the triggers are really smooth as well as a little lighter; nearly as smooth as you can get with a pretty intensive trigger job.
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Does anyone have any experience using an ultrasonic cleaner like this?
http://www.sonicsonline.com/personal-ultra...s-cleaning.html
I'm wondering how helpful it might be, especially for lazy people like me.
Ultrasonic cleaners are a great tool, but be careful about the finish of some guns. A buddy of mine ran his Ruger blackhawk through one, and it removed all the black paint from the aluminum parts... They're great on most normal guns; we clean the heck out of chromed, blued, and melonite type finishes, but paint is a big no no. On the upside, my buddy did have a distinctive-looking 2 tone revolver...
Someone in our shop made the mistake once of using the wrong type of degreaser in an ultrasonic cleaner on an alloy framed Sig. With whatever type of degreaser he used, is actually sucked all of the pigment out of the anodizing and severely discolored the frame (I think it turned some sort of dull gray). The hard anodizing still appeared to be there but the pigment used to make it look black had disappeared. Long story short, be careful what solutions and parts you use in them...
Tanfoglio Stock II ?
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
Any update on availability of the Stock II now that it is on the EAA website???