Rln_21
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Posts posted by Rln_21
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Chuck,
I just saw this, didn't realize you guys were running these over there. I think Bruce and I will probably attempt to make the May 13th match. I'll send you a PM to confirm when it gets closer.
Roy
Grayguns Inc.
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X-5s are only lightened less than 2oz, so it's not a world of difference.
If you are referring to the slide being lightened 2oz, that actually is a world of difference when speaking about slides.
Take for example a standard profile 1911 slide. You can remove as much material as you want and you probably couldn't get much more than 2oz of weight difference out of it, however that difference makes a huge change in the guns function. I believe the last one I lightened I milled out pretty much every possible scrap of material within reason between the breechface and the rear of the slide (definitely the easiest place to remove significant amounts of material from a slide), leaving just enough material to support the front and rear of the firing pin; and I believe it removed just about 1oz, definitely not much more and IIRC actually less.
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There are no factory made conversion barrels, only aftermarket like BarSto and EFK so they would be easy to spot. Plus, the breechface on the .40 slides is noticeably larger than the 9mm slides.
I honestly doubt that anyone would notice or care if someone did it unless it was a major match, but as others said, YOU would know...
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anyone else glad that beavertail design didn't catch on?
Actually, it is too bad that it didn't catch on more predominantly as it negates the percieved need for pinning the grip safety.
The solid beavertail (or Hardtail Conversion as we now call it), has a significant practical advantage and no downside except that it is harder to perform than a standard beavertail fitting. This type of conversion will solve any issues that someone has with deactivating the grip safety pretty much regardless of hand size/shape while still keeping the grip safety active on the firearm.
It is still an excellent idea, it has just evolved into something a bit more ergonomic...
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I recently set up a CZ 75 for IPSC and in the first match I shot I had some malfunctions. I made these changes to the extractor and no more malfunctions.
CZ enthusiasts seem to be a very DIY bunch, so I thought I would share this.
The extractor seems to be a common weak point on CZ pistols. If you are experiencing extraction issues you could have one or more of any number of contributing problems.
Probably most commonly, you may not have enough tension on the extractor to reliably pull the shell from the chamber and hold it in place until it can hit the ejector in the correct position. This is because CZ pistols do not have a cartridge pocket on the breechface like nearly every other design so there is nothing to locate the case vertically on the breechface except the extractor tension. If you have too little tension the case can slip down the breechface and either ride under the ejector (causing a jam) or not impact it in a location on the case rim that will allow positive ejection (causing a stovepipe or something similar); both of these obviously cause feeding and extraction issues.
The modification in the last pic will create an artificial cartridge pocket using extractor tension and will help keep the case located in the proper vertical position on the breechface.
This is how I tuned my own extractor and it fixed MY problems, I of course can't guarantee that doing this will fix any problems you are having.
I also obviously can't guarantee that doing this won't harm your extractor unless I was doing it myself.
Basically, modify your own guns at your own risk...
Luckily, in the big picture the CZ extractor is not an expensive part and these are not hard modifications to make.
These modifications were made in conjunction with thoroughly polishing the breechface with very fine sandpaper and polishing the wall of the breechface where the rim of the case would sit opposite the extractor. The inside of the hook and the slot behind the hook where the case rim would ride were well polished with very fine sandpaper WITHOUT CHANGING THE ANGLES OF THE BACKSIDE OF THE HOOK OR RAMP... The idea is to lightly smooth out (but NOT necessarily completely remove) machine marks without changing angles.
Extra power extractor springs are available from Wolff and CZCustom.
I did this because I had the extra spring on hand and I didn't want to pay $5 shipping on a $3 spring...
This may not need to be done on every gun...
This change in angle should be subtle, no more than a couple degrees. I may have been a little more aggressive on mine than I needed to.
Remember, if you attempt this; take things slow, use very fine sandpaper for polishing (1000 and 2500 grit is what I used), don't change any angles except what is shown in last pic (I used a diamond tool (E-Z-Lap) for that with the extractor secured in a vice), modify at your own risk.
Gratuitous completed gun pic
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Man that blaster looks awesome. I'm super jealous. Did you do any trigger work to get the nice, short reset or was that just the hammer, sear and lack of FP safety doing their thing?
Yes, I did a lot of extensive action work on the gun to get it where it is now. Made a modification to the trigger bar to shorten the reset...
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Did you mill the slide for the front sight? I would love to be able to put a .9 or .100 front sight on mine
Yes, its just a Heinie style 1911 front sight dovetail so any 1911 sight of the correct height can work on the gun. If you have someone put a dovetail in your slide tell them to be very careful near the center of the slide when cutting across. FWIW, in my gun, however CZ fixed the "bushing" into the slide created a very hard spot in the middle that the dovetail cutter would not go through very well; I broke two dovetail cutters getting that in there (I think one of them might have even been carbide IIRC) and had to finish the dovetail by hand with a diamond file.
I talked yo you when you first did this project over on CZFORUM and you said you were working with APEXTACTICAL to possibly market the rear sight. I was wondering if anything ever came of that. I have a 84 pre-b that I would love to have better sights on.
It is a possibility that I could produce a variation of this sight (with some refinements). I haven't really had the time to look into it yet. Also, I need to get hold of an M&P rear sight (like one from 10-8 Performance) because I have a sneaking suspicion that the dimensions are so close to the one I made that they might actually be able to be retrofitted into the CZ 75 and accomplish the same thing.
This is something probably better discussed on the CZforum as we have not gotten around to signing up for a subforum on this site for our company. If I did decide to make one I would post an update over there.
At this point that was a one-off custom site I made for a personally owned gun, our shop doesn't accept work on CZ pistols as we have other primary focuses...
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Did you mill the slide for the front sight? I would love to be able to put a .9 or .100 front sight on mine
Yes, its just a Heinie style 1911 front sight dovetail so any 1911 sight of the correct height can work on the gun. If you have someone put a dovetail in your slide tell them to be very careful near the center of the slide when cutting across. FWIW, in my gun, however CZ fixed the "bushing" into the slide created a very hard spot in the middle that the dovetail cutter would not go through very well; I broke two dovetail cutters getting that in there (I think one of them might have even been carbide IIRC) and had to finish the dovetail by hand with a diamond file.
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Beautiful. Did you have it re-finished?
I blued it after stripping the poly coating. ( I did all the work myself)...
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Here are pics of my new Production gun pretty much all finished for now. Pre-B CZ75 from '93 (no firing pin block and lighter than the Shadow
)...Going to shoot a match with it tomorrow, we'll see how it goes.
Finally got the trigger tuned to my liking. Super smooth <6lb DA and and a really smooth 2.5lb SA, extremely short reset (<1/16") with no overtravel. Seems to ignite pretty much any ammo including CCI and PMC.
SA is a little lighter than I would prefer but thats how it came out without modifying the angles on the Competition hammer or Miossi sear, I will run it for now. Its so smooth I'm afraid to change anything...
Mag opening modified to accept current production 17rd mags with anti-friction coating (most Pre-B CZ 75s only work 100% reliably with mags from the same era which can be hard to find). Also, magwell beveled out to max dimension allowed by rules...
Of course, custom made rear sight and Dawson FO front sight.
(Sorry some of these pics didn't focus the best)
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I like the Pre-B CZ75...
It doesn't have a firing pin block like the Shadow but it has less weight. I tend to prefer guns that aren't so front heavy as it seems to help my transitions.
Here is one I'm setting up with custom sights, etc.
Its almost finished now...
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If you do go with a 1911, look at a Dan Wesson. The lower level Springfields and Kimbers can't even begin to compare in fit and finish.
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Does anyone know who makes a polymer arched checkered mainspring housing? I would like to put one on my Edge.
Buddy
Colt made plastic arched mainspring housings that they used on the Delta Elite at some point. I just removed one from a Delta I was working over. If your interested in it I can see if the owner would like to part with it, I'm pretty sure he has no use for it anymore. It is a gray color...
roy@grayguns.com
I may have missed this in the last three pages, but doesn't this limit you to Techwell and other under-the-grip designs?Or a permanent weld on magwell, lots of options there...
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I would recommend trying one before you buy. The beavertail models actually put your hand lower on the grip than the standard models because the beavertail is a pretty poor design. Some people really like the beavertail, some don't; either way, unless you have really large hands the beavertail is almost never necessary to prevent hammer bite and it doesn't allow you to grip the gun any higher.
They do make P226 ST models which have the standard frame profiles but are made from stainless. I don't think they are in current production but it shouldn't be too difficult to find one in good condition on the used market.
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Correctly installing an EGW checkered insert is no easy task. It takes a LOT of time to do really well and will be expensive on labor. If your not too concerned about cosmetics you might get it a little cheaper.
STI frontstraps are pretty thick, if you take some measurements it should be pretty easy to see if it can be done. There are quite a few places that can do machine checkering, I would contact Pete Single and see what he says.
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Esmeralda's are very nice grips, her Cocobolo is especially nice.
One thing I would recommend, if your getting really nice wood grips, don't ruin them with any sort of texturing or patterns. Smooth wood grips are just stunning and on a gun that doesn't get hard use, and has frontstrap and backstrap texturing like yours, you will never miss the texture on the sides.
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As stated, anything less than a 17lb mainspring and you can't get reliable ignition without some serious work with changing leverages, hammer rest point, and balancing all the other springs to work with the lighter mainspring.
Recoil spring weight is pretty subjective and just depends on what will work reliably with your load, if your running factory ammo or close to it then a factory spring usually works as well as anything else and will last longer than single strand springs.
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If you ever want some trigger work, ship your Sig off to Gray Guns Inc. They are the tops.
I think that BW edition has the SRT (Short Reset Trigger) as standard. Not saying more trigger work may not be warranted...just that it has a shorter reset than the standard 226 (I think).
Regards,
Pooleman
Having the SRT trigger usually means the guns need more action work than a standard Sig. They do have a relatively short reset, however, the SRT conversion negatively affects the trigger pull in several ways.
First, the SA will be long with about twice as much creep as a normal Sig. They had to increase the SA engagement significantly to keep the guns from doubling since the SRT safety lever/sear arrangement negates the firing pin block between shots, unlike the traditional system.
Second, the SRT equipped guns typically have a lot of overtravel compared to a normal Sig. An internal overtravel stop works wonders for the SRT guns. Also, adding an overtravel stop reduces the reset by the amount of overtravel removed. Usually there is so much overtravel that when you remove it you will cut the already short reset by almost another 50%
. Third, the SRT sears are inexplicably different on a certain dimension that makes them drag on the hammer in an area where there shouldn't be any contact. This will induce a pretty severe bump/grind in the DA pull, we call this problem "SRT bump". Once removed, this will improve the DA pull. Almost all SRT kits cause this problem but there are a few that don't due to how the parts fit with the hammer in the frame.
We have never been able to figure out why Sig doesn't return that specific sear dimension to the standard configuration, the only explanation we can think of is that either they aren't aware of/don't care about the problem; or, they do not want to change the mold for the MIM sear (most likely since that can't be cheap). Either way, it was sloppy design in the first place.
Once you do all these things combined with some intensive action work the SRT guns can make for a pretty sweet competition trigger. Once you remove the overtravel and smooth up the SA, the long SA engagement actually makes it pretty easy to prep the trigger hard and make quick shots.
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Assuming you are talking about Sig's "Short Reset Trigger" which is actually a new sear and safety lever that shortens the reset, rather than a Short trigger which shortens the reach (people confuse those with us all the time); you can send your gun straight to Sig to have it installed. Sometimes you can get the parts kit elsewhere, usually only from armorers that are supposed to only be supplying them to Law Enforcement if I understand Sig's policy correctly.
One thing to keep in mind, people often seem to think that if they send their gun to Sig to have the SRT installed that they are getting a trigger job or action work. This is not the case. If you send your gun to Sig for the SRT, they only change the parts out (sear and safety lever), no action work involved. To get action work from the Sig custom shop you would need to add on what they call the AEP package.
The SRT sear and safety lever can be installed in DA/SA variants of most Sig models including P239, P228, P229, P225/P6, P226, P220, X-5 AllAround
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Dawson front/Warren rear
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Is this GGI doing CZ?!
Nice work!
Nope, this is a personal project. We refer all CZ work to the real CZ experts at Apex Tactical.
Rln_21,That work looks excellent but you have a measurement to make if you are planning on shooting in Production division: (Appendix D4)
22 Specifically prohibited
modifications and features
•Prototype and Single-Action-Only handguns.
•Disabling of any external safety or externally operated
safety.
•External modifications or features such as weights or
devices to control or reduce recoil (such as, but not
limited to, thumb rests or components which could be
used as such).
•Grips - Any addition or removal of material which
changes the factory profile or adds function such as
beavertail or thumb rest.
•External plugs (such as Seattle Slug).
•No magwell attachments or external flaring of the
magwell. The lateral width of the well may not be
more than 1/4” wider than the lateral width of the
magazine.
Hope this isn't a problem!
Later,
Chuck
Shouldn't be a problem, I only created a .050" bevel per side on the magwell so a .100" (1/10") total increase in magwell width. Should keep me well under the .250" over mag width requirement.
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Bevel Magwell
Blast off baked coating and Hot Blue frame and slide (I polished the slide flats)
I will be getting a CZ Custom Comp hammer w/13lb mainspring and Miossi sear as well as thin aluminum gips and some Mec-Gar mags to finish it off. As soon as I have all the parts I will do some extensive action work and shorten the reset and I should be good to go.
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Well, I got hold of a NIB '91 Pre-B a while back and am finally getting around to setting it up for USPSA in time for the Area 2 Championship.
Here is what I did.
Install .130" tall Dawon Precision front sight.
Design custom rear dovetail to eliminate existing rear dovetail and avoid cutting into slide serrations. Manufacture a custom rear sight from barstock to match dovetail.
Serrate rear of sight at 50lpi and cut square notch (.135" wide)
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CZ pistols tend to be very ergonomic, especially for smaller hands. The SP-01 is a pretty heavy pistol, but the SP-01 Phantom is nearly identical but much lighter. I would start looking there, but then I am not a fan of striker guns. M&P could also be a good choice. The STI GP6 looks promising as well, most things I have heard say it has nearly the best DA/SA production trigger from factory on the market...
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Oregon - 2012
in NRA & AP Match Announcements
Posted
Chuck,
I just saw this, didn't realize you guys were running these over there. I think Bruce and I will probably attempt to make the May 13th match. I'll send you a PM to confirm when it gets closer.
Roy
Grayguns Inc.