njl
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Posts posted by njl
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Has anyone noticed the lenses in an Rx insert scratching the coating on Rudy tinted lenses?
I have a set of polarized lenses for my Magster frame, and it seems because the Rx insert doesn't want to follow the curvature of the frame/lenses, the outside edge of the Rx lenses rubs the back side of the Rudy lenses and has worn through the coating.
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Hodgdon and Alliant both have web sites that have the data you seek.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/recipedetail.aspx?gtypeid=5&weight=140&shellid=8&bulletid=10
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On 11/30/2017 at 8:19 AM, mont1120 said:
The stolen credit card issue will not go away with a different bullet maker. The problem rests with either the credit card company you use, or the clearinghouse either company sends the credit info through, which would be unusual. I have had terrible issues with having to change my credit card info when companies get hacked. I will say I have never had any issues with Montana Gold, but I had to get 3 cards in one year from my local bank.
Welcome to progress..............
That depends on where the info is being stolen. As someone who's worked in the ISP industry, I can tell you, it's shocking how bad security can be at some places. It wouldn't shock me if some sites email your order (complete with credit card data) to a company email address all in clear text.
Back to the original question, I've been happy with these...but I don't shoot a lot of them as I mostly shoot coated now.
http://tjconevera.com/newtjco9mm12.html
rozedist.com also has Zero's in stock for just a little more $.
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Chronographed from a gen 5 Glock 17
Titegroup 2.5gr
Blue bullet 147 RN
1.090 OAL
775-804fps
Did not cycle in an m&p 5”
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not surprised. Those are running kind of slow. Try more like 3gr. -
Assuming your flare measurement of .380 is outside mouth diameter, I'd say that's practically not flared at all. Dillon recommends 0.015-0.020" of flare. That would mean flaring to very nearly 0.400. Crimp should be bullet diameter + 2x case wall thickness at the mouth, which for typical 9mm brass is about 0.012". So, if your blue bullets are 0.355, finished case diameter should be 0.379". Crimped any tighter than that, you're biting into the bullet. Flared to only .380, I can't see how you'd be able to seat coated 9mm bullets without scraping coating off the sides. Have you pulled a bullet to check for that?
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IMO, both of you are doing insufficient flare and probably just a tiny bit too much crimp.
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I’ll suggest you nix Universal from the list. It does poorly at low pressure (incomplete combustion) and really only works well in .45acp if you want full power loads, which I’m guessing you don’t.
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I’ve been reloading nearly 10 years and haven’t lost or damaged one yet. Are you having to replace yours more often?
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Reloading / guest bedroom. [emoji3]
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Damn. I was looking forward to seeing what brass tumbled in clay media looks like. I imagine it might do some cleaning...before being reduced to dust that leaves a heavy coating on everything.
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Depending on the type of litter, the dust could be horrible. If it’s a clay-type, I wouldn’t do it.
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You need to look closer at what is binding and keeping the top round from sliding forward. Is it not enough "crimp", and the case mouth is getting stuck on the front of the mag body?
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I've been wearing an old leather belt to matches, and with the amount I sweat, I think I'd be much better off with something easily washable, which I assume means nylon webbing. It'd be nice if it was low-key enough to be usable for EDC as well, for which I'd really want it to have an inner velcro loops lining for use with v-clips.
Is there anything out there similar to the 5.11 TDU belt, but with an inner velcro lining?
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I've just started shooting IDPA and think I noticed something that wasn't being done consistently when scoring targets. Suppose you have a limited stage requiring "2 to the body, 1 to the head" on several targets. On one target, the head shot missed low, striking the -1 body region below the head. Is the target scored as -5 for the head miss and then the best (or worst) two of three hits to the body? i.e. No extra shots were fired, but you have 3 body hits and a miss on the head rather than 2 and 1. I've seen these scored both ways and am wondering which is correct.
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On 3/15/2010 at 7:11 AM, Duane Thomas said:
I wouldn't be looking to polish anything to get this to happen. As has been mentioned, don't start depending on the slide going forward without hitting the slide release. Because if you do, eventually it's not going to happen....and when that occurs it COMPLETELY screws your game plan. Ask me how I know.
Also, literally the only failure to feed I ever had with my Glock 34 occurred during an IDPA match when I slapped in a fresh mag and the gun dropped its own slide right into a 45-degree nose up feedway stoppage. Fortunately jacking the slide completed the chambering process. My theory is that, with a partially loaded mag holding 10 rounds, slamming it into the mag well really hard caused the rounds to bounce in the mag, then the slide released before they could reorient themselves enough to feed. I have actually put a fair amount of effort into smoothing out my load so I don't insert the mag particularly hard.
I've been shooting Glocks for almost 20 years, but just started practicing for and recently shot my first IDPA match. My Gen4 G19 will do the auto-forward thing, but with a twist. At least twice when practicing at the range, I've had it auto-forward and close on an empty chamber. At my first match, it auto-closed once with an empty chamber, and once with partial feed jam in which I just had to help the slide close. The ammo in both cases was 147gr (H&S coated in practice, Montana Gold in the match)...and in both cases I was using 15-round mags loaded to 10. The mags at the match were brand new...so not weak springs. I've done various forms of competition, but have never until these instances had any Glock auto-close and fail to chamber a round.
Previous types of competition with on-the-clock reloads, were for me, a long time ago, and I was shooting either factory 115gr or my own 124gr 9mm. For the past several years, I've primarily shot 147gr.
It was suggested that the easiest fix for IDPA matches is to use 10-round mags for mags 2 and 3.
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6 hours ago, bsand said:
I tried them, then had jamming issues when They got wet. Went to blue bullets haven't looked back since. 3600 blues and not one feeding issue in rain or shine.
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I never thought to try wetting my ammo. What happened? Any idea why they were jamming?
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Don't buy crap ammo or reload crap brass. Problem solved.
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Years ago, I got into the habit with my Glocks (the ones that will do it anyway) on a slide lock reload, slamming the magazine home hard enough that the slide stop automatically lets go of the slide, returning the gun to battery, chambering a round. I recently got a Gen4 G19, and while practicing with it last weekend, at least twice, I had something happen that I'd never seen before. When doing a slide lock reload, upon slamming the mag home, the slide would close, but the chamber would be empty. The slide had managed to scrape over the top round in the magazine, rather than stripping it from the mag, and even scraped a track through the coating on the hi-tek coated bullet on the top cartridge.
I kind of assumed this was just a magazine issue. I was using older mags left over from a previous G19 I owned long ago (I kept most of the mags when I traded that gun away). So, today, while shooting my first actual IDPA match, I used 3 brand new mags and had this same malfunction twice. Another shooter asked if I was using 15rd mags, and said he'd had the same issue and another shooter had told him "use 10 round mags for your reloads" and it never happened to him again. Obviously, the 10 round mags to make sure you can't stuff 11 into them are at full compression to get that 10th round in, so there's no way for the stack of cartridges to sink any further in the mag. My assumption is, with 15 round mags, either when I slam the magazine in, the rounds are sinking in the mag (inertia?) or the top round is hitting the ejector hard enough that it and entire the stack of cartridges is bouncing down off the ejector, and staying down just long enough for the part of the slide that normally strips a round to get ahead of the case head and then either close on an empty chamber, or get stuck half closed with an empty chamber. Today, it cost me time and a procedural, as I stopped to figure out why my gun was only half closed after a reload.
Is this a common issue with Glocks and "high capacity" mags limited to 10 rounds? I do have some 10s for all my 9mm Glocks (left over from the AWB)...but not for my 21.
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Extreme makes multiple varieties of crap brass. Stepped would be totally unsuitable for major. Brass plated steel cases probably shouldn't be reloaded at all.
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Just because some large commercial reloader wrecked a large quantity of bullets, that doesn't mean overcrimping (esp plated bullets) isn't a real problem. Why do you think those were pulled and being sold at discount? I'd only bother trying them if they were free. It's not worth the risk that they won't shoot well or even developing a load for them if you won't be able to buy more once these are sold off.
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I put a similar product (Boodad's grips) on two Glocks. Followed the instructions for cleaning before, and heating after applying. IWB + getting squeezed between my sweaty back and the car seat, it only lasted a week or so before the left side was shifting around. On a pocket carry gun, it's not been an issue...and I'd imagine for a range/competition gun, it'd work.
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From their FAQ page:
Military/LEO discount
To receive the coupon code, H&S Bullets will need some sort of verification. Whether it's a govt email address, a copy of credentials or MIL ID.
Any info sent is deleted after being verified. H&S Bullets DOES NOT save or sell any private info.
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H&S? They're already so cheap, I haven't looked. I just ordered another 3k 147gr for $216 delivered.
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On 3/21/2017 at 4:57 PM, njl said:
What? I've loaded lots of Bayou and never had the coating come off on my hands or anything else...but I think I've only ever used his green. If Bayou red was coming off, I wonder if they had an issue / you got a bad batch that wasn't properly baked? I've shot some of H&S's 147gr 9mm, and haven't decided what to go with for future 147gr orders. In .45, his 230gr RNFP shape is odd and has to be loaded really short. That's one I won't buy again unless he changes molds.
I saw in another thread recently, it was said Bayou had changed ownership. Googling for that, I found this article from March 2017 saying it had happened "not long ago"...and based on the timing...I wonder if your bayou bullets that were shedding color were an early batch under new ownership, and they screwed up the production process?
Am I being picky with my bullets? Something seems off?
in General Reloading
Posted
It seems like if you look at enough coated bullets, doesn't matter if they're from Missouri Bullet, Bayou, etc., you will eventually find some that didn't get coated in the lube groove. I assume that's not a serious issue since the valley of the lube groove isn't in contact with the barrel. I have some, may try to get some pics to post, from my latest source that I'm trying where the hi-tek coating looks "weird"...almost like something touched it while wet or like they fell in a puddle of the coating. I've been setting such bullets aside...but I guess I should load a few and see what happens with them.