WatchmanUSA
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Posts posted by WatchmanUSA
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I've done it. Just one round to see what would happen. If you accidental stuck a .357sig case in your press you would never know it. Comes out looking just like a .40.
I didn't think the press would be the problem. A press is designed to resize the brass case. The resizing die won't resize the base. The potential problem is the feeding of the round in mags, barrels and extraction. If the gun is a Glock with a stock barrel there is only a slight risk of a problem but other guns can be more finicky.
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Hello, a simple question to the adventurous ones:
Is it technically possible to resize 357sig cases into .40s&w? Has anyone done this? How long is the resulting necked up case? Need of trimming?
Thx!
t tommi
I'm not sure how one could re-size a .357 Sig case to .40 S&W. If you cut the .357 Sig case down to the proper length for .40 S&W the shoulder diameter is .004 in. larger. You could probably size that down but the problem is the base is .004 larger, too.
.40 S&W - Shoulder diameter .423 in (10.7 mm) Case length 21.6 mm (0.850 in)
.357 Sig - Shoulder diameter 10.77 mm (0.424 in) Case length 21.97 mm (0.865 in)
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There are some scales that measure to .02 grain accuracy but they are expensive. I have one that was given to me and I'm finding a variance of about .04 to .07 between some throws on my 550B.
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My club here in great white north goes indoors in the winter to one of the local indoor ranges. Usually limited to 3 stages at the most and a more limited number of shooters (fist to sign-up get the 40 or so spots). The shoots are every 3 to 4 weeks.
If you are hard core there are a few clubs that continue to shoot outside in the winter in the snow and cold (extremely cold for many of you). I like the indoor range shoots myself.
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I also keep a loaded mag in my right pocket when shooting IDPA. It helps when sweeping it out of the way.
Stay Safe,
A.T.
O.K., I'm all for the mag in the vest pocket. But, we have an old fart @ our club who hands out FTDR's like it's candy when he catches someone doing this. He says it's not in the spirit of the game. I can't find anything in the rule book that even remotely relates to this. Is it legal? BTW, I also keep a mag in each vest pocket
DaG
Why would this be an issue? It is allowed to have magazines in your pocket. In the Ammunition Carrier Notes section of the rules, paragraph 3 says, "3. In lieu of the use of ammunition carriers, spare magazines (2), speedloaders (3) and moon clips(3) used in a CoF may be carried in the contestant’s pockets and used for any IDPA legal reload."
I hate it when people get so sanctimonious about the FTDR.
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So I ordinarily shoot a 9mm M&P in production, but am going to have it worked on so I want to make some .40 minor loads to run through my Glock 35 (eventually going to shoot that in limited) for a while.
I have a good quantity of Universal Clays and Titegroup powders and am wanting suggestions for a minor load using a 180gr bullet (montana gold or hornady XTP JHP's) for those powders.
Thanks
I have a G35 and I load 3.8 gr of TG with 180gr Montana Golds.
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Assuming they both work equally well, the Redding GRX die is cheaper than the Gizmo which was $75.00 according to the last thread on BE. I have one and it works like a dream. Can't comment on the Gizmo-Do a search and check the thread out.
A question for users of the Redding GRX, I'm wondering if you have noticed any elongation of the case. It would seem that since you are pushing the case through the die it would stretch the case a bit each time. What is your experience?
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I have one on my 550 and it causes no issues. I like having the tools handy when needed.
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I have just started reloading .40 cal. I have about 5000 rounds of mixed WWB and UMC brass that has been shot in my Glock 35 and my SV. I am getting about 4 to 5 rounds per 100 loaded that wont fit the case gauge. I have loaded a mag with these and hand cyled them through my SV with no problems.
Would you shoot these or pull the bullets and resize the brass? I am ordering an undersize die to solve this issue in the future.
I had a similar question concerning .40 S&W and sent an email to the folks at Dillon. My question:
I have a 550B and loading for .40 S&W. I shoot a Glock 35 so I have a lot of "glocked" brass. My 550B resizes about 80% of my brass just fine. However, about 20% won’t fit in the Dillon .40 S&W case gage.
Does Dillon have any suggestions on how to get 100% of my reloads to fit the case gage?
Others have suggested getting an undersized Lee die and put it station 1. However, I would prefer a Dillon solution rather than another product.
Here is their reply:
Some “Glocked” brass won’t resize sufficiently to fit our chamber gage. Use your barrel as a gage. It should fit the chamber just fine.
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I had a similar problem last time I made up some ammo. I found that the metal catch jaws that open to catch the primer were sticking closed so the old primers were droping with no place to go except all over the place. It was binding on the pin that acts as the pivot point and would not open to catch the primer. I had to play around with the pin. I made the holes just a tiny bit larger and now it works fine. Check that out and see if that is your issue.
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When i started loading earlier this year I had a similar question so i emailed Montana Gold. Here is the email text:
My email to Montama Gold - I am interested in using your bullets in reloading .40 S&W. I’m just a beginner reloader and I’m trying to find loading recommendations like those found in reloading manuals like Speer and Lyman. However, none of the manuals I have looked at contain information on Montana Gold bullets. Specifically, I’m looking at .40 S&W loads for now but I will be doing other calibers in the future. Can you recommend a manual that contains your bullets or can you provide loading information you have researched?
Any help is appreciated.
Montana Gold's Reply - All the information found in the major reloading manuals refer to that firms bullets. we do not have reloading information for our jacketed bullets, however if you use information for jacketed, not lead or plated, bullets in the approate weight you will be in the ballpark. it would be a good idea to have a case guage to check your loaded round settings. do not exceed listed powder charges.
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With the Redding die, I find that I can put the brass through much faster, but I stand to miss some of the problem brass this way. But more importantly for me, I find that I am now getting a lot of resistance at stage one as the brass is resized - and no, I don't know why this should be.
I'm wondering if the resistance is being caused buy an elongation of the case through the Redding die?
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Almost any store that sells outdoor clothing have some sort of light weight vest that is usable for IDPA. You don't need to pay to have something made to order. Google - safari vest I'm seeing vests run from about $35 to $100.
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I'm relatively new to IDPA shooting and have been competing in indoor matches this winter. We have not been doing any prone shooting and I'm sure once we go outdoors I might sees some.
I have some back issues combined with my old eyes and it seems I can't get my head high enough to get a good sight picture of any target not very near the ground. However, if I roll on my side I can see most any sight picture.
If I go prone and roll to my side would I incur a penalty?
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Ive used 320 @ 3.8 grains, 1.135 Oal, 180 zero, I really like this round for light shooting. My G35 runs good with it, and if you want try cheaper lighter load try 3.5 grains TG?
I've been loading 3.8 grains of TG with 180 grain MG's at 1.126 OAL in my G35. I experimented down to 3.5 grains but had intermittent FTE's. After finding the floor I worked back up to 3.8 for a good overall combination of feel and accuracy not to mention no FTE issues. Life is good...
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I just got a new G35 and the stock barrel it came with is already fully supported.
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I picked up my new Glock 35 on Monday and took it to the range Monday night. I shot factory and reloaded ammo through it and it worked great!
Thanks everyone for your help.
I tried to post a picture but I guess the file is too large or I don't know how to do it properly.
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What was the velocity difference between the factory rounds and your reloads?
Rich
I don't have a chronograph yet so I only have my observations. I alternated between factory ammo and my loads so I could feel the difference.
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I just got back from the range. All I can say is that I really like my reloads and my G35! The reloads are much better to shoot than the factory stuff. I was shooting at about 10 and 25 yards. My accuracy was much better with the reloads and I could get the muzzle back on target faster with less recoil. I had no FTF's or FTE's.
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I picked up my G35 over lunch today. I chambered each reload round in the (removed) barrel. No hitches what-so-ever. I also noticed that the stock G35 barrel fully supports each round. It is nothing even close to the pictures I have seen showing an unsupported barrel around the feed ramp. If there is any gap at the ramp it is less than 1mm.
When I get time I will try to post pictures.
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I always use a 10-drop average and do that three times (minimum). .1gr +/- is good for an average variation, and it could be half that since the scale is going to round up for anything .05 or higher and down for .04 or lower. R,
I'm a new reloader and I did some loads this weekend on my Dillon 550. My daughter is a chemistry teacher and she got me access to a scientific grade electronic scale. It measures grains out to the hundredth of a grain (.01) with accuracy of +/- .02 grains. Most scales for reloaders go to a tenth of a grain (.1) but I don't know the guaranteed accuracy (this is another factor to consider). I was noticing that the charges I was getting could vary up to about .06 grains or so. That means, depending on the rounding algorithm of the scale, a regular powder scale could easily swing your displayed charge one to two tenths of a grain with only .06 REAL variance.
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I intend to shoot some factory ammo (perhaps 50 to 100 rounds or so) before I try the handloads. I plan of shooting some factory rounds in between the handloads so I have points of comparison. I don't think I'm being reckless - I do have a plan.
If someone thinks I'm being reckless then I would appreciate knowing how to avoid being reckless.
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New reloader, first reloads and they going into a new (or new to you) gun. You are the man!
Screw warranties! I might run at least a few boxes of factory ammo through it first. Your G35 will be fine but machines are finicky sometimes. A shake down with WWB or something is a good idea or you might end up chasing your tail. Just thinking out loud. Jim
The way I look at it - if its going to blow, its going to blow no matter how much other stuff I run through it first. It is the way I look at life. After all, life is dangerous.
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On my 550,the first 3 or 4 OAL are differant or until all stations are full. After they are full AOL stay consistant. The dimple may just have been media
keep it clean those should go away
I was trying to set my OAL to 1.125 but I found that I could only get 1.124 or 1.126 (that last .001 was very elusive) so I settled for 1.126. I would get slight variations to running up to about +.003 on the majority of the rounds. None were short of 1.126.
On the ones that I considered to run long were .006 to .011 long. It was never more than 4 in a batch. So it could be as you say the first 3 or 4 come a bit longer. They were 1.132 to 1.137. I suppose it is better to run long than short.
I'll watch the media debris thing in the primer pockets.
Screw warranties! I might run at least a few boxes of factory ammo through it first. Your G35 will be fine but machines are finicky sometimes. A shake down with WWB or something is a good idea or you might end up chasing your tail. Just thinking out loud.
Redding GRX on a Dillon?
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
I picked up a used Lee Challenger single stage press. I got it off ebay for less than $30 including shipping. I didn't find one locally when I was shopping around.