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WatchmanUSA

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Posts posted by WatchmanUSA

    Choke Tube for Mossberg 930 SPX with 18.5 " Barrel

    in Shotgun - Technical

    Posted

    I have read over most the posts regarding choke tubes for the 930 SPX. Most people post the brand of tube they got but don't mention the type of contraction for the choke. Example - Improved Cylinder, Skeet 2 (Lt. Mod.), Modified, Improved Modified, Full, Extra Full and others.

    I'm shooting in 3-Gun and use bird shot, buck and slugs.

    I need a choke to improve long-range steel and clay shooting.

    If you would be so kind I'm looking for specific choke recommendations of Brand, Type and Constriction.

    Thanks in advance.

    Federal 40 SW Brass

    in 10mm/40 Caliber

    Posted

    There were problems with Federal .40 brass with the headstamp of: FC

    Many case head separations with FC

    If it's marked: Federal it's okay

    This topic comes up from time to time. Several years ago I received an order of once fired brass that primarily had brass with a head stamp of "FC" along with "08" on the brass. I was concerned after reading the posts on this forum concerning case separations. Rather than read more on the forum I contacted Federal to see what they had to say. I got an email from Product Development saying the following, "The information you’re getting on the internet is incorrect. .40 brass head stamped FC08 is perfectly safe to shoot and reload."

    Rather than trust out dated hearsay information I suggest you contact Federal and see what they say about your brass.

    Once-fired Lake City .223 Brass

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted

    There are soil conditions, for example, that will stain brass brown pretty deeply. I'm a serious brass scrounge and relentlessly pick brass wherever I go. I get LOTS of pieces from ranges that have been buried and then weather back out. (The brass monster giveth and the brass monster taketh away) It polishes up clean and brown and it shoots fine. It is handy to have a magnet close by tho....just to be sure.

    It is defiantly brass and not aluminum or steel. It is only stained or oxidized brown. Your explanation of the soil causing the discoloration seems plausible.

    Once-fired Lake City .223 Brass

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted

    I have been processing once-fired .223 Lake City brass. There is a small number of cases that appear to be colored brown. I'm fairly sure it is brass. When I trimmed it the exposed trimmed edge looks like brass.

    Any thoughts on the brown color? BTW - it remained brown colored after tumbling and it is smooth like the polished brass.

    Where can I find a Stag 3G?

    in Rifle - Technical

    Posted

    Even if you order the rifle you may get it quickly. Recently I ordered a Stag 8L-Plus (I have to shoot long guns left-handed) with several upgrades:

    Diamond-head Versa Rail

    .22LR Conversion Kit: Left-handed

    Hogue Pistol Grip

    Norgon Ambi-Catch

    Stag 3-gun Compensator

    Geissele Trigger (used in 3G)

    I ordered it through a local gun shop. They got the rifle in 15 days from the date I ordered it. I did this within the last 30 days. I suppose it is possible the 3G Competition may have a longer lead time.

    550b Primer catch and "blue nut" mods

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    I am also starting to have problems with with the primer catch chute sticking open. I know I can put a safety pin or a finish nail in it but I want to do something more permanent. I have read about putting tubing on the 650 to catch primers. But has anybody done anything like this on the 550? There is alot of movement involved and was wondering if anybody had success with a tubing mod.

    The safety pin solution is the Dillon fix. It works like a champ.

    .308 Win Powder Recommendations

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted

    I'm about ready to get set-up to reload .308 Win with my Dillon 550B. I'm just looking for suggestions of powders that work well with my Dillon and provide good performance. I'll use this list to research the powders and make my selection. I will probably use 168gr BTHP match bullets from Widener's.

    308 Bullet Recommendations

    in Rifle/Shotgun

    Posted

    I'm just getting started loading for 308 and I need some advice on selecting a cost effective bullet to begin shooting. I'm not talking about a super quality match grade bullet here. I looking for a bullet I can use for general practice and shooting - 308 "plinking" if you will. My rifle manufacturer recommends 165 to 168 grain bullets.

    Any suggestions?

    Lee BULGE BUSTER

    in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by WatchmanUSA

    Yeah, but that says:

    Do not use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the

    40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that

    do not fully support the cartridge due to the

    intrusion of the feed ramp.

    :huh:

    Most (if not all) gun makers warn against the use of reloads. Lee is being prudent.

    OK, I couldn't let this one pass. I understand that a gun manufacturer would warn against using reloads in their firearms. Obviously, they don't want to be held responsible for someone else's stupidity. However, don't you find it odd that a manufacturer of reloading equipment would recommend that you don't reload? I'm just askin'... :roflol:

    Reloading the glock 35

    in 10mm/40 Caliber

    Posted

    I'm going to throw out an idea here for you to think about. Just my opinion so take it for what it is worth. If you "fix" glocked brass, what have you done really? If it chambers it is good? Maybe. If it is really bulged & you push it back into place, have you just increased the possibility that the brass may tear at that point?

    Obviously the facts are this: one, the likelihood that the fixed brass will wind up in the exact same position in your gun with the previously bulged area laying right back on the same less supported area is pretty slim, two, how many times can you flex that spot on the brass before it fails?

    I prefer to just reload them then case gauge them. Any failures due to bulged brass (aka guppied brass or glocked brass) get broken back down & the brass dumped in my recycle bucket. I just prefer to not take that chance it will fail at that point. I loaded 400 the other night, had 2 bulged ones wouldn't pass the case gauge. Not a large percentage overall. This was just brass from an indoor range, mix of everything.

    Plenty of people "fix" bulged brass & have no problems. I'm just not one of them.

    Things to think about, right? Take all the advice you read, consider, decide, & then follow your decisions knowing the possibilities & risks. IOW, make educated decisions!

    MLM

    I shoot my G35 in IDPA. After a couple reloadings of the brass I found about 20% wouldn't fit the case gauge. However, they fit fine in the barrel. I got the G-Rx to get the brass sized down to fit the gauge. The reason was to remove the possibility of the gun not going into battery in the middle of a stage.

    Recommendation: IDPA CDP 1911

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted

    I'm looking for some advice. Right now I shoot SSP in IDPA so I only own service pistols - I don't have a 1911. I have an incredible opportunity to buy one of two 1911's new, direct from the factory. I can order a Springfield or Kimber. I was ready to buy a Springfield Trophy Match 1991 but then I found out I can buy any Kimber 1911 and get the same discount. So now I'm conflicted. I would like some advice. The primary use will be for IDPA CDP competition.

    1. If you could get any Kimber for IDPA competition, which Kimber would you buy?

    2. Which would you buy the Kimber (from above) or the Springfield Trophy Match?

    Thanks in advance for your input.

    Reloading the glock 35

    in 10mm/40 Caliber

    Posted

    Buy the G35, reload and have fun. You may want to consider one of the various solutions to re-size the full length of the case. Sear for Redding G-Rx for one possible solution. I have a G35, reload and have the Redding G-RX.

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