saibot
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Posts posted by saibot
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Just an update. I received an Aftec extractor and watched a few YouTube reviews of it before putting it in. I opted to install without using both springs (I left out the one closest to the muzzle). The instructions mention that fitting may be required here and there, but I thought I'd try it out without doing anything.
There was a local match yesterday and I arrived early to see if the gun would cycle and put 2 140mm mags through it without issue. Then proceeded to shoot the entire match without a single malfunction. I think you guys nailed it!
THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!!! That was the first match in a long time without a failure.
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Well, it couldn't hurt. Just ordered an Aftec from Dawson Precision.
I'll also see if I can get the OAL a little longer and see if it helps until the Aftec arrives.
Appreciate the help!
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6 minutes ago, Explosiveo said:
You could also try increasing your oal. I run 1.165- 1.170
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
I wonder if I can go much longer. The 115's don't have that much left in the case when I get them out there.
Missed you last weekend. Get tired of beating everyone?
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2 minutes ago, bigbob21 said:
Had the exact exact same problem all last year...
It’s gotta be the extractor... too much tension is slowing down the round on its way up and into the chamber.
For me, mine was cracked, so sometimes it had too much tension. Other times it had too little tension. Was very hard to diagnose due to having both symptoms.
Replaced and fit 2 new Ed brown extractors (one for backup) and the gun had been running fine ever since.
FYI: I run the same bullet, oal, mags, as you’ve mentioned.
Goodluck
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI think you just made my day.
That would explain the issues exactly. Would you suggest trying to get the EB or just spring for the Aftec?
Thank you for the post!
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I have two identical STI TruBor 9mm Open guns and one of them has always had the occasional jam (see picture below). It started getting worse and would jam once per stage last time out. It has happened with both STI and MBX magazines, all fairly new. I've tried 8 - 11 lb recoil springs. The ammo is all tested before shooting in my Hundo. Using a Lee U-die/seating/FCD. Everglades 115 JHP, but has had the same issue with Montana Gold 124 JHPs as well. OAL is around 1.158ish. This pistol has about 3k on it. The other TruBor has around 9k on it, and jams occasionally, too. And for what it's worth, I've recovered the rounds that jammed and they look find, and case gauge fine as well.
Any advice/tips/things to investigate would be great! Loosing my mind.
Thanks!
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10 hours ago, Dazhi said:
I also have this issue.
Was using Lee die and had about 1 every 20 rounds. Then I switched to Redding Pro die, and it is now worse about 1 out of 10 rounds crushed. I will try Dillon die next...
I have used the alignment tool, greased the station 1 locator bottom, got a new shell plate, etc. Nothing helped.
I suspect it's a design issue with the 650. I have not seen 1050 users having this issue.
If you have trimmed the spring under the detent ball, try putting a new spring in and see if that corrects the index issue. There are better ways to correct the powder spilling problem that don't result in poor indexing. This was my primary issue and replacing the spring pretty much took car of it.
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10 hours ago, ddc said:
Well... be careful here...I might be misunderstanding the suggestion and I can't argue with positive results but...
I've had two occasions where the primer punch unscrewed far enough to leave high primers. Didn't notice it until I had way too many...
I'm just guessing here cuz I've never dealt with this exact problem but it seems to me that the primary issue might be somewhere else and shimming the primer punch is just masking a better solution.
However if the primer punch is indeed the culprit then that is definitely a problem that Dillon should deal with. That would be either a defect or something has broke or worn beyond tolerance.
You are not wrong. In fact, I had the primer punch back out and cause an issue which gave me the idea to shim it out. I think it's a tolerance stacking issue with my press, the thickness of the primer, the depth of the case's primer pocket, etc. But I would sometimes need just a bit more throw to get the case into the proper position in stage 1. Adding a small shim still allows me to very solidly seat the primer, but gives me a bit more margin.
I'm sure it's a bit of a bandaid for other issues, but every little bit helps. -
1 hour ago, gerritm said:
Not sure where, are you talking about? Are you taking the primer punch assembly out and putting the shim there? Picture maybe?
gerritm
Yes, it was the primer punch. Sorry, I forgot the name of the part. You can try unscrewing it a couple of turns and test it to see if it's worth doing anything.
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53 minutes ago, gerritm said:
What is the shim you did? I have had this same problem for quite awhile, but not all the time. Have done all you said and still get a few cases that stick going into the sizing die. Maybe 1 or 2 out of 10, but random.
Thought it was just different brass dimensions causing this. If there is no case in the primer plate opening it does not happen so I have figured it is the primer causing it, but not sure how to fix.
Just installed a MBF and love it, until this happens and you have to reach around to push case in.
gerritm
I used a part of a snap ring. You could stack some small washers in there if you find some that'll fit. Perhaps form a paperclip around a bolt and use that. It didn't take much to give me a little extra throw.
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Like I mentioned, I started having the same issue and it was driving me crazy. I poured though all of the posts here about folks having the same problem and checked all of the things people suggested. I'm happy to report that I did wind up fixing it. It was several things in aggregate/tolerance stacking that was causing my stage 1 issue. The biggest single issue was that the two bolts that fasten the shell plate holder on top of the ram, had come loose. I had gotten the alignment tool and used it several years ago and got it as close as possible, but it still rubbed a bit, but there was no more adjustment. It was good enough, but the screws did loosen up over time. I'm glad I checked! I realigned it and added a generous amount of Loktite. I put a piece of brass in stage one and clamped my tool head in place (I used the Uniquetek kit to thread/clamp my toolhead to the press). While the case was still in the Lee U-Die, I loosened and tightened the lock ring of the die. Cleaned and lubed it all, and she's running good as new, and only the occasional hit on the sizing die.
One other thing that I'll mention that I did that no one else did, is that the little spring loaded primer seater doo-dad would seat the primer and kept the handle from moving any further back, which also kept the case from being pushed all the way into the shell plate. I used a ring to shim out the primer seater assembly and it gave me a bit more pressure on the case.
Anyway, I hope you get your press running, too. -
On 1/25/2016 at 5:21 PM, bozrdang said:
Update - so I got the Dillon alignment tool and realigned the machine. I also purchased a Whidden tool head and installed it and still no improvement. I made sure my bench is level and even shimmed either side of the machine a quarter inch to see if it made any difference. Nothing seems to change it. I also just started reloading 45 ACP so I am now using a different shell plate than the 9mm in my OP.
I've manged to make a video showing the case deflecting into the resizing die. And that is with me carefully pushing the base of the case all the way into the shell plate with my finger. So this represents the best case scenario.
The movement you see is the top of the case being tilted back towards the center of the tool head. The base is already as far in the shell holder as possible. You can actually hear it falling back down to it's normal resting position when I lower the ram.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Did you ever figure out what the issue was? Having the same thing with my 650.
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I clean all my fine glass with Kimtec wipes.
No lint/dust. I keep a wad of them in my parts kit.
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Just a quick update. I started with the easy stuff first and in the end, it only took a couple of twists on the over travel screw to get her running without issue.
Thanks for all of the help and suggestions! I truly appreciate you guys taking the time to help me out. -
5 hours ago, Jfitz427 said:
I just bought a used trubor recently and a few days ago installed the same trigger group as you. When i first installed it everything worked fine. Then I got this idea that I won’t go into but I messed with it and then the hammer wouldn’t lock back, sounds like the same issue you’re having. So I took it back apart, didn’t adjust anything, put it back together and it was back to working right. I put a few hundred rounds though it yesterday and it ran without hiccup. The pull is 1.5lb. But I think when I messed with it and the hammer stopped locking back the sear spring might have idk shifted around or something, wasn’t positioned right. Idk, wish I knew what caused it when it happened to me. But it works now. I’m thinking some part of the leaf spring is the cause of your issue.
Thanks for the tip! I have made some adjustments and hope to get out to the range soon to test it out.
Appreciate all of the help. -
1 hour ago, CHA-LEE said:
Why not take it to a gunsmith to fix?
What fun is that?
I'd like to check the low hanging fruit first and see if it's something simple. I find that I learn more when something doesn't work properly and I have to work through the process to fix it. You guys are great at providing ideas for me to explore and I really appreciate it!!!
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35 minutes ago, Vmax606 said:
Here's the kit I used:
http://www.1911store.com/tunedtriggergroupbcg-proseries.aspx
Any idea on how much side play I should check for?
Thank you! -
8 minutes ago, anbrumm said:
Does the issue happen in dry fire? Could try this.. Verify gun is empty, cycle slide, drop hammer with the trigger, continue holding and rack the slide again. Does hammer follow the slide? or can you release and drop the hammer again?
OK, just tried it and the hammer doesn't follow the slide. I tried it about 25 times and it stayed cocked every time.
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1 minute ago, anbrumm said:
Is it possible that the screw isn't allowing the trigger to reset and the hammer is coming back with the slide?
Sounds possible. Any idea how to check (besides going back out to the range to test fire)? Anything I can measure to verify? I'd love to know for sure so I have confidence in the gun.
Thanks!!!! -
9 minutes ago, Dan Sierpina said:
Check that the screws that hold the grip on are tight. Put Loctite 242 on the screws.
Just looked. Look nice and tight. Thank you for the suggestion!
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One other thought. I recently noticed that the trigger was moving too far back and adjusted the over travel screw. Any chance that could cause this issue?
Thank guys for helping out a 2011 noob! -
56 minutes ago, Powder Finger said:
if going to 1/2 cock make sure the sear spring isn't going off the side of the sear.
It doesn't seem to ever go to the half cocked position. I'll fire a couple of rounds and then the gun will stop because the hammer is fully against the firing pin. I'll check this though.
Thanks!
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7 hours ago, 1911Prof said:
Do you mean the hammer is not locking back?
Yep, I did mean hammer. I guess I was more tired than I realized when I posted that. Thank you for asking!
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I have a 9mm Trubor that I recently got as a backup gun that only has a couple hundred rounds through it. It has a Brazos trigger kit that was put in day one. Today I was shooting it and the gun would stop because the hammer wasn't locking back. I pulled the leaf spring and bent it a bit thinking it might need more pressure on the hooks, and although it helped a bit, it still wasn't great. Any ideas on what might be going on with it?
Thanks, all! -
Thanks guys for the suggestions. I did watch most of the Atlas videos already, good suggestion! Also found some good videos on the basics. I guess I would like to get more "gunsmithing" savvy and know how to work on things at a deeper level. I see AGI has some videos for sale, but not sure if those would be going overboard. I just bought a gunsmithing book on amazon that looks good. It had good reviews and the Kindle version was under $5.
https://amzn.to/2PuvsEdThanks again everyone for the posts. Keep 'em coming.
Help With Jam-O-Matic
in Open Pistols
Posted
Sorry to hear you're still fighting your jam issue! The Aftec worked like a dream on one of my STI's, and a fair amount of bending/filing took care of the same issue on my backup STI (both identical TruBors). I did load a bit longer when I was struggling with my jams to see if that would help (it didn't) and never shortened it back. The STI's are back to eating everything without issue. Did you do any fitting with your Aftec? You might still need to adjust it a bit. For what it's worth, I only installed one spring on the Aftec initially, and since it works I never went back and played with adding both/fitting/etc.