ski_dog
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Posts posted by ski_dog
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4.0 gr. of Titegroup with a COAL that works in your pistol is a safe and accurate starting (and perhaps the only load you'll need) for your G34.
+1
And don't be afraid to lighten it up in .1 increments. Sometimes the results are greater than one would expect. The recoil impulse seems to change quite a bit with TG.
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That looks fast just sitting there. Watching you strum it is otherworldly!
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It looks pretty manly. It definitely has my attention.
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Looks a little bit too..."robotic" for me. It's the first time I have seen one.
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I use the lightweight Nordic, but honestly am not convinced that a bigger bold handle is necessary at all. It looks cool though!
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From looking at your pics it looks like you only fluted the barrel forward of the gas block. Maybe this is a dumb question, but why not flute the whole thing? Seems like you could take off a lot more weight that way.
It is fluted all the way back. In the close up pic, you can just barely see the radius edge of the flute near the gas block.
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Starting a similar endeavor. I ordered a PRS, then found the MOE stock. Since both are on the way, I intend to compare the two before making a decision. The PRS does, however, appear to be a bit heavy. I don't think my body is so out of the ordinary that the MOE with/without a buttplate swap would do the trick. How is the cheek weld with the MOE?
I like it, but I did run the PRS with the comb all the way down too. I am intrigued by the Lancer LCS A2 length stock. It is about 4 oz. lighter than the MOE.
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A little over a year ago, I was in my local gun shop here in Southern Oregon. I had been contemplating building a custom upper for a few months. Terry, the shop owner, asked what I wanted to spend my money on that day. I replied that I was certain he didn't have what I was looking for, as it was pretty out of the ordinary, but that I was looking for a Krieger barrel. "Hold on. I'll be right back." Those words began a year long process that follows.
It was a Krieger DCM barrel, known for being very accurate in the Highpower shooting world. If you look at the Camp Perry equipment year after year, that barrel is on the list.
He made me an offer I couldn't refuse, and I picked it up for $400. Then I had to purchase the rest of the upper parts. I purchased a VLTUR MUR upper receiver, gas tube and barrel nut, JP lightweight bolt carrier and bolt, a Surefire brake, a Troy VTAC rail, and a BCM gunfighter charging handle. For the gas block, I picked up a custom adjustable model that my local machinist had been playing with in the design phase. It didn't work out, so I went with the Syrac. I loved how the upper turned out, and it shot consistent 1/2 MOA groups. I had him chamber it in 223 AR match, and he cut it back to 18", put a nice crown on it and threaded it.The problem was its weight. That DCM barrel weighed 3.09 lbs naked!
I tried to compensate for the barrel weight by putting a Magpul PRS stock on, since it is really heavy. I ended up with an incredibly heavy rifle. Since I am a big guy, I figured what the heck. I can make this thing work. I was wrong. Eventually, after a local match, I sent the upper with one of the shooters who happens to be a really good rifle builder/gunsmith - Jason Chipley of Redding, CA, to put that barrel on a diet. He did some awesome and beautiful flutes, taking off a full half-pound. I also took the PRS off and put the MOE rifle stock on to save even more weight on the rifle.
The problem that I then experienced, was it no longer shot worth a darn. The best I could get out of my handloads was 1.1" groups at 100 yards. I was very unhappy, and figured I had wrecked my barrel. I must have tried 15 different loads, and never could settle. You could see some really good potential with a few, but it never would shoot consistently. As a last ditch effort before just junking the whole thing, I sent it off to diversified cryogenics to cryo the barrel. I read many different viewpoints on cryo treatment, but they all seemed to agree that if you machine on a finished barrel, then the cryo will help. If you cryo a brand new barrel, then there are very mixed results.
I was very relieved when I got my upper back 2 weeks later (cost was $59 plus shipping), I was very happy to find that it shot better than ever. Last weekend, I shot a .455" group at 200 yards. All this to say, if you machine a barrel, I would encourage you to cryo it when you are completely done.
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I have seen too many Mossberg autos take a dump to ever trust one. I would rather run a 590 if that were my only option.
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This may draw a chuckle, but I have been using our ceiling fans for dry fire practice at moving targets. You can also attach a string with a small cardboard IPSC target hanging off of it to shoot movers,...at least when the wife and kids are gone! Always remember to absolutely make sure all ammo is in another part of the house with dry fire practice of course.
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The 69 &77 are both good to go. Many handloaders try to match those ballistics that Black Hills provides.
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Cliff Walsh shot his 45 ACP revolver at a couple of the Ft. Benning 3-guns and did pretty good. At the local 3-guns he always did very well. But then he's a revolver GM and a past national champ if that makes any difference.
Give it a try just for fun.
And comparing my revolver ability to Cliff Walsh would be like comparing my sprinting ability to Usain Bolt!
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I agree with Doug, in that most matches use either the R&R or MGM flashers. Larue has another option...for just a few more dollars than most people would be willing to pay. http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-sniper-target-tg1
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There is no way I would want to try to carry all of the moon clips that would be necessary, and fit the shotgun shell caddies, and AR mag onto my belt. With my G34, in just 2 spare mags I have 44 rounds. For a revolver to match that, you would have 7 moon clips and still fall short on capacity. No thanks, even though I do enjoy shooting the wheel guns!
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For a left handed shooter, I think the front sling mount should be on the right, and the rear either on the left or integral to the stock like on the Benelli comfortech. The reason that a QD sling socket would be best on the left is it pulls the stock into your body, and makes it easier to keep the muzzle from sweeping backwards beyond the 180, even though it is pointed at the ground. If the rear QD socket were on the right side for a left handed shooter, then it is likely that the shotgun would swing past 180 when slung and on the move. That is my opinion anyway.
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what is the max range? They look like pretty fun stages.
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Can you please post a picture of it? Thanks!
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I am wanting to load up a stout load for shooting the MGM spinner targets in multigun. I usually use Titegroup for my 9mm powder. Anybody have data for this? I could also load it with Clays, Unique, or Bullseye as I have those on hand.
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Yeah I have a Miculek comp on it and have been pretty happy with it, as far as adjustable gas block, then do you tune it to the loads you are shooting. I usually just shoot federal 55 grain .
I just opened mine to operate the bolt with the lightest match ammo I would be using. For me, I use a light 62 gr plinker load for anything inside of 100 yds. For anything further, I use a 77 gr handload. I set the gas block to work with the 62 gr load, since it will definitely operate the heavier one then.
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The low mass system is worth it for the game. Before that though, I would put a muzzle brake on the barrel, and an adjustable gas block as mentioned above.
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I previously ran a Surefire G2 LED 200 lumen light in an inexpensive VTAC mount. I added a clicky switch after running a night match and finding out how useful it would have been. It would probably run around $130 to put on your rifle. The part I didn't like about that setup was it had to be mounted at about 10 o'clock. I had a hard time reaching the switch if I needed to run the rifle from my support shoulder.
I now have a Streamlight TLR-1 HL 630 lumen light mounted on the top rail behind my BUIS. I like this setup much better, as I can reach the switch with either hand. I also live out in the country, so it is nice to have the extra brightness for distance shots at night.
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I had good luck in my Krieger barrel with 23.6 gr of TAC with the Hornady 75 HPBT. For some reason, I have had trouble finding a great load with the Hornady bullets out of my Noveske. I assume it is due to the different rifling. My Noveske loves the 77 SMK with 24.0 gr of Varget.
I would encourage you to do a complete ladder workup for your particular rifle. Load all identical brass, primers, and bullets, but vary the powder charge. If you are set on TAC, then maybe start at 23.0, and increase to 23.3, 23.6, 23.9, 24.2 gr with 5 rounds each. Then take them out and shoot them all on the same day. The rifle will tell you which one it likes the best. Make sure the barrel has had around 20 rounds through it to make sure it is equally dirty for all of the loads. Then you can vary .1 gr above or below that load if you really want to be retentive like I am!
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Satern fluted. It is very similar to what I ended up with...but I started with a Krieger DMR and paid too much for machining and cryoing it. It is fun having something unique and I think you will enjoy it.
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Support hand thumb works best for me, since then I dont have to adjust my grip with my strong hand.
9mm cases - How do you lube them?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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I have loaded thousands of pistol rounds, and had never lubed my pistol brass. When I saw this thread I thought you guys were crazy. Well, last night I was having some OAL issues with my press so I decided to spray some one shot in the plastic container of brass and mix them up. Wow! The whole handle cycle goes so much smoother I couldn't believe it. It did solve the OAL issue as well. Thanks for the heads up.