jonny4523
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Posts posted by jonny4523
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If this was meant for me, I'm in NJ where mag capacity for a semi-automatic shotgun cannot exceed 6 rounds....Mag tube extension
Not the best place to live if you like guns!
Hmmm...so a +1 extension?
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Hi everyone,
First post here and thanks to this thread I have a 24" 1301 Comp on the way. My price was $1086 including NIC and NJ sales tax, that was about as good as I was seeing anywhere and I was fine with that price.
After reading through this thread twice, when the shotgun arrives I will:
- check the bolt release screw
- check the mid bead screw
This is my first shotgun so I need to order some ammunition. It seems Winchester AA (1145fps), Fiocchi Low Recoil are mentioned quite a bit as well as Winchester Super X #00 buck.
Sound about right? Any further suggestions?
Thanks and regards,
Scott
For the Ammo:
Winchester AA Light Target (red hull): Rogers Sporting Goods (online). $.32/rd (and even better when the Winchester AA rebate comes to town)
Fiochhi Low Recoil Slugs: DSGarms.com $.80/rd shipped when you buy 250
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I might be out of the norm here, but I got the Briley +6. I didn't trim the spring at all. I can fit 11 with the last round just barely making it past the catch. I probably have 400-500 rounds through it so far, no issues.
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I just wanted to say thanks to all for their input in this thread. I just ordered a 24" model under the guise that it is a shorter, lighter, less recoil skeet gun for my wife seeing as she can barely hold up my 32" Beretta O/U. Honey, I bought this new gun for you.
I just hope she doesn't question the +5 Nordic extension I ordered from Shooter's Connection. That one is going to be difficult to explain. I ended up getting it for $1,010 shipped. Is that a good price?I think mine was $1089 BEFORE shipping, so yea, you did good.
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Where is the rail for the Tx4 available?
Nevermind
found itHopefully you found it for a better price than I did! Beretta had it for $65. Brownells for $141!!!!! Are you serious? Part numbers match on both too (E5D864). That part should cost about $15 max.
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Most of us use BENT rib barrels which start at 21".
With the way I shoot slugs through mine, that sounds about right. Hahaha
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I really don't understand why people think they need to put ton of work and $$$ into a Benelli to make it work. This simply isn't true. The gun I ran all last season was a 24" M2 the only things I did to it was weld the lifter, put on a tube from Nordic, and a Hi-Vis front sight. Thats it! It ran perfectly, never jamed. Where the heck does this "requires a ton of work to be competitive" come from? IT AIN'T TRUE!!!
I'd say it runs well as long as you don't use light loads. It pays to pay a little extra for some nice AAs. I have multiple issues any time I try to run Wal-Mart value packs through my M2.
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I'm thinking of putting a match saverz on my new 1301. I've seen the little tutorial that someone did on here. Has anyone ran one with just the Velcro? Is it strong enough?
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I'm using the HiViz TriComp FO front sight with the stock center bead.Anyone running aftermarket sights? If so what kind. Thinking about swapping my stock ones out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
How does the TriComp actually attach to the vent rib?
Local 3-Gun Match on Saturday, April 12: 5 stages with four requiring a shotgun!
G19 perfect
Stag 3GL perfect
1301 Comp perfect
shooter....screwed up really bad (too many mistakes to mention); my second match
...Red marker ink on end of follower (as per this forum)....no need to purchase a new one...
...Natural point of aim is off due to a right-handed gun that I am shooting left. I had to tilt the gun several time to get the bead to align with the FO sight. May be shooter vision problem as well. I think adding the factory shims will resolve this problem....
A couple things:
1. Which ammo did you end up using during the match? Which choke?
2. Can you explain the red ink marker on the follower or point to where it was discussed? I must have missed that one.
3. Just to be clear, you change shims, not add them. Don't double them up. I have both an A400 Xtreme and the 1301 comp. For both, I had to change the shims to a 65mm DX drop to get my natural POA right on. Also, in case you didn't know, as a right handed shooter, I point the 65mm DX on the shim upward and towards my shoulder. Since you're a left handed shoulder, you'll want to point the SX towards you're shoulder instead. And of course, you'll do this to both shims: the one separating the receiver / stock and the one that the lock nut is tightened on.
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I was experiencing this when using cheap walmart ammo in my M2. I had a suspicion that steel hull did not contract fast enough causing drag on the whole system, removing some of the momentum of the bolt that it needed to complete the cycle.
I changed to better ammo (Winchester AAs) and haven't had an issue since.
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Pricing has been brutal, and i have shopped everywhere for AAs. Their was a $2 off coupon last year that helped.
Yea, I definitely maxed that out on the 5 cases max we could buy. I'm hoping to see that again as it brought the price down under Wal-Mart ammo. Reading other forums, rumor has it possibly May. But an email from Winchester pretty much said "don't count on anything coming".
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I always liked brownells. They fill back orders without charging extra shipping and last order of 20 flats that I got from them the shipping was $15.
Jeff
Ah, but I'm in Indiana. So I get hit with tax on top of shipping from Brownells. Rural King makes it cheaper when you factor that in, unless they give you a bulk discount?
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Not sure if this is the best forum to ask this, but I have 2 questions:
1. Does anyone have a secret online source for buying Winchester AAs in bulk? Local prices seem to be $.40/rd after tax (without any rebate). Places I've found online seem to be slightly higher with shipping.
2. Anyone with an inside word on whether or not they're going to offer a rebate on AAs in 2014? I maxed out last year's rebate and I'd sure like to do it again.
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I spent about 3 hours opening my loading port last night. Lots if filing but it went well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did your serial number survive?
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Ran the 1301 this weekend in the Indiana Multigun Series at WVRPC. She ran beautifully with both Light and Super Sport AA ammo. I load weak hand from CCW and Safariland shell caddies. The lifter bit me a few times (although not nearly what the non-welded Benelli used to do). So I think I'll still weld it. Very light and easy to shoulder. Couldn't be happier.
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... I had a lot of explaining to do later that night to my wife but it worked out ok.
Haha, isn't that the story of just about any guy here!
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Nordic is obviously well represented and well proven.
I know they're a little pricey, but I have a Briley on my 1301. The thing is SOLID. Must stronger than the SSI tube I have on my M2. I run the 1301 without a clamp. There's no way I'd do that with my M2/SSI combo.
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I'll stick with my Win AAs that I get cheaper than Wal-Mart ammo during rebate season.
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I have both. I like the 1301 better for the following reasons:
- More real estate on the forearm to hold on to. The texture on both the forearm and the pistol grip portion of the stock is also very aggressive. It reminds me of my VZ operator II grips on my 1911. It'll be nice for those hot sweaty summer days.
- After a drop shim change, the mid bead and front bead line up perfectly and my slugs are hitting POA at 50 yards (and grouping nicely at that.) I have a lot of trouble hitting accurately with my M2.
- Very light
- Very fast on the trigger
- The 1301 seems to eat everything I've thrown at it where my M2 does not like cheap Wal-Mart ammo.
- It shares the same chokes as my A400 Xtreme
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I got mine from Woodbury Outfitters. They were very fast with shipping.
I also just got an email from Bud's. They just got some in.
http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/90008
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...there are a couple of companies that make case checkers just like we use for case gauging our rifle and pistol ammo, I highly recommend you spend the couple of bucks they cost and see what kind of crap ammo is out there.
I've been looking for some. Do you have a source? My google-foo is failing me.
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Well I just finished my first 3Gun match this Sunday. It was only my 3rd time shooting the gun and first time shooting at something other than clays. I consistently shot high on all the steel targets so I will have to mentally work on that. The gun ran FLAWLESSLY. It turned a couple heads and got a few compliments. Now that I'm done with my first event I can definitely see the need to port the loading gate a little more and weld the lifter. The lifter wasn't a problem loading 2 but my buddy will be sharing the gun with me from now on. He will be loading shells individually as he has little baby hands.
I did have to put a little Loctite on the mag release screw. It came loose both times I shot the gun before the match. It seems like there are only a couple threads that hold the button on. After the Loctite it didn't back out (obviously).
I'm also going to pick up a Modified choke and see how that changes my shot pattern.
Overall it was an awesome day! I went in with the goal of not getting DQ'ed, finishing last or shooting anyone. I didn't get DQ'ed, finished 20th out of 35 and didn't put anyone in the hospital.
Instead of just making a mental note about the slugs hitting high and trying to use Kentucky windage next time out, you should look into changing out some of the drop shims that came with the gun.
When you shoulder the gun, how does the front pin line up with the mid bead?
I just got a Beretta 1301. Grouped slugs very well at 50 yards but they were all high. My natural point of aim with the stock shims caused my front bead to appear to 'sit' on top of my mid bead. I had to force myself to line them up. I switched out the factory 60mm drop shim with a 65mm drop shim (allowing the tip of the shogun to pivot down more until the buttstock hit my cheek). Now my natural point of aim automatically brings the mid bead and front bead into alignment. With this, I'm putting slugs point of aim / point of impact at 50 yards.
Not saying this is definitely your issue. But if your groups are consistent, just not in the center, then it might be a start.
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Anyone else grind the studs away? I don't really see the need for them.
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I have to make sure to really suck my gut in when putting on the inner belt. And, since I position the studs on the back, getting the belt aligned takes a bit of wiggling. Real problem is, those inner belts will shrink between matches, just like clothes shrink in the closet.
Hahahahha. So true! I quit drying my work shirts in the dryer because of that phenomenon! Stupid failing metabolism.
I just hope she doesn't question the +5 Nordic extension I ordered from Shooter's Connection. That one is going to be difficult to explain. I ended up getting it for $1,010 shipped. Is that a good price?
found it
Beretta 1301 Comp
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
Yes. Buy a lot of it.