ajbarr
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Posts posted by ajbarr
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Hi Guys (and girls)!
I am glad to find Brians website and forum as it has a wealth of information and many well informed members who take time to talk to greenhorns like me.
I took up pistol shooting again after 30 years of never pulling a trigger. I don't know exactly why but it is a great sport for me. I am now 60 years old now and started shooting with a vengeance about one year ago. I was some where north of 12,500 rounds when Barny and Chris decided that I had to pay other peoples mortgages as well as my own. The market didn't like that for some reason and destroyed my investment portfolio. In any event, reloading moved from a nice hobby that I heard about to absolute necessity overnight.
On to my new reality. I am a contractor (of all things) and it seems that Barny and Chris also killed any hope of rebuilding my savings through hard work (especially at my age). Thus I have LOTS of time and rapidly diminishing funds.
I cannot set up my reloading bench at home so my only other alternative is one of my warehouses. Neither of these has power or water. They are both the U STORE IT steel buildings on a slab. I live in SE SC so humidity is a real concern for metal and I would assume, loading materials, and finished product storage. I have lots of room but that's about all. The only power I have ever used at this location is a 1200 Watt inverter for the odd time I needed to use power equipment there. From what I have read here, a Dillon 550 with all the bells and whistles would do the trick or maybe you have another suggestion. I did a search but found no posts that addressed my specific problem.
Any advise on "stage one" of my pilgrimage into poverty would be highly appreciated!
Jay, dreaming of a targeted congressional virus.
Sorry about your problems. I live in South Florida and we get our share of heat and humidity as well. I have no room in my house to reload. I store all my equipment in a large closet. I have a dillon 650 and i keep it on a large board with 4 rolling wheels. When I want to reload I just wheel it into the garage and put it on a Far Max portable work bench. It only takes about ten minutes to set up and 10 to tear it down and put it all away. What I did do, which cost me some money, is to air condition the garage. No way I could spend hours in there in the summer heat. I don't know if this helps but I honestly can't see how you can do this in a warehouse with no electric or water. Good luck.
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What are people's thoughts on shooting 9 mm for single stack? I would think less recoil and larger capacity would be a huge advantage despite the point reduction for shooting minor.
Just wondering what people think.
Thanks
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I noticed a lot of posts about VVN320 for 40 caliber. Most people seem to be suggesting a load of around 5.0-5.4 grains for a 180 bullet to make major.
I looked at the VV 2008 reloading guide update and their suggestion for a Fiocchi 180 bullet is from 3.5 to 4.1.
This is much, much lower than what most people seem to be reloading with N320.
Can anyone give me some good advice on how much powder to use to make a round for 40 caliber. I am using 180 gr MG HPs and the gun is an Infinity with a 5 inch barrel. I have been using Titegroup but wanted to give the N320 a try.
Just want to see what people think before I make something that might be too hot.
Many thanks
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I have noticed that a lot of you load in the garage, apartment, or somewhere attached to your dwelling. I have got a shed that I was planning to use, but don't have a way to control heat or cold (100 degrees to single digits in winter) or humidity. I also have a room that I can load indoors and alleviate those concerns. My concern is loading indoors and any safety measures I should take, like primers going off, etc. I sure would hate to have to look for a bridge to camp under. In fact the only bridge is over a railroad track and that doesn't sound too restful. If I am making to big a deal of this, just tell me to chill and start loading.
live in South Florida and deal with heat in the garage year round. My solution isn't cheap but it works. I installed a Mitsubishi AC unit that is very small and hangs on a wall. You drill a hole in the wall and the outside unit is on the ground. I use a portable workbench for my Dillon 650. when I want to reload, I move a car out into the driveway and turn on the AC. Instant workshop and its perfect.
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Yeh it is loaded at 990 fps which comes in at 135pf from a snubby a little better than the same line of +p 38, just for comparision the same line of 9mm ammo comes in at 142pf from a 3". Also depends on your snubby's are they 2.5" or 1 and 7/8ths ? or something else ?
I have 2, a Ruger SP 101 and a S&W Model 327. Both are shorter than 2 inches.
Thats gonna make the problem worse, the 357 is just not efficient at shorter barrel lengths in factory loadings. and there isnt really any incentive for ammo makers to make it better. 99.9% of the shooters dont have chronographs and equate noise, flash and recoil with power. Now dont get me wrong I am all for bigger and better I just dont see the point of extra flash and recoil when there is zero gain, But back to your original reccommendation if I was intent on using a snub 357 I'd load it with the Speer short barrelled line of gold dots.
Thanks appreciate the insight. Should I just bag .357 and stick with +Ps?
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Yeh it is loaded at 990 fps which comes in at 135pf from a snubby a little better than the same line of +p 38, just for comparision the same line of 9mm ammo comes in at 142pf from a 3". Also depends on your snubby's are they 2.5" or 1 and 7/8ths ? or something else ?
I have 2, a Ruger SP 101 and a S&W Model 327. Both are shorter than 2 inches.
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Can anyone recommend a good .357 magnum bullet that is low recoil and won't penetrate too far? I have two snubbies and the standard .357 is pretty hot in both. I can use 38 +P but prefer the .357 if I can find the right bullet.
Thanks
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I have a new Dillon sm. primer filler and out of every 100 I always have 2-3 that are flipped when loading. I never had this problem using the pickup tubes. I am doing something wrong or has anyone else had this problem. Thanks for any advice,
Greg
Same problem here except I get 5-7 flips per hundred. Went back to hand filling pickup tubes. Waste of money in my opinion.
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I got one a few days ago. 847-659-0106 EXT 35
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Adam I went through the exact same issue you are having a year and a half ago. I had some pretty high end pistols and I am not sure I would say you have to spend big bucks for reliability. Without finger pointing, I've had issues with some of the priciest guns made.
My other issue, my personal point of view, is I am not comfortable carrying a 1911 with the hammer back, safety or no safety.
I think CZ, for example, makes some excellent single/double action pistols that are great for carry. Also, the PARA LDA has an amazing trigger. I have a .45 with a 3 1/2 inch barrel that holds 12 rounds.
I shoot USPSA open and limited. I own a lot of handguns and the two I use for home protection and carry are both revolvers, a .45 S&W and a Ruger .357. No springs, no jams to worry about and pretty much totally reliable.
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They make a tool to remove the brass, it is available from Brownells. In the mean time you can use a screwdriver. Put the screwdriver between two shells and pry it out. You can also use a pair of needle nose pliers.
Thanks Jax
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I am not a revolver person so here is what sounds like a pretty dumb question.
I just got a new .45 S&W revolver that comes with a half dozen moon clips. I was able to get rounds in the clips by hand (not easily) and can't get them out of the moonclips.
Do you need a tool or is there a trick to it?
Thanks
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I've made them. Work great. I used 6.5 grains of Accurate No 7. and Montana Gold 147s.
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the ejector may need to be finely tuned so the brass ejects flatter.
I tried 9.4 to 9.7 and it should make major.
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I've been having a problem with an open gun and hope someone can shed some light.
I originally used VV3N38 and a combo of 121, 115 and 124 bullets, both Zero and Montana Gold. At least 5 or 6 cases get stuck and crushed when being ejected.
I recently made about 500 rounds using MG 124s and IMR 7625 powder.
The gun is a custom 38 super and I have been using Starline super comp brass, both new and used.
I have never had a problem with cases getting crushed using the IMR 7625 powder but consistently do with the 3N38. The gun has about 2500 rounds through it, I keep it very well greased with slide glide. I know someone will say duh, if it works with the IMR powder stick with it but I know that 3N38 is very popular with open guns and this should not happen.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
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I am no expert but as far as I know Super and Super Comp use the same shell plate. I load 38 Super and I am pretty sure they are totally interchangeable.
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Hey guys, I'm reloading .38 supers and I have question maybe you can help
with. I switched from reloaded brass to new brass and immediately starting
having this problem. My press is a Dillon 650.
I complete the down stroke no problem. When I start the up stroke something is
sticking, I think either the brass in the re-sizing die or the seater die or
perhaps the one the bells the case mouth.
As I start the upstroke there is some resistance then a "snap" of whatever
was stuck getting un-stuck. Of course this sends powder flying everywhere.
Any ideas which die it may be and or what's causing it?
I had the same problem. Is it Starline brass? In any event there are two ways to handle this issue if we had the same problem. First is use Dillon case lubricant. It makes a big difference. Also, if you run your new cases through your cleaning and then polishing compound for about 15 minutes that really helps too.
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I just loaded about 250 rounds of 9mm using Montana Gold (CMJ) 147s, Accurate No. 7 powder and Win SP Primers (OAL at 1.140). Four rounds of these did not fire because the primer failed to ignite. The primer looks like it was seated properly and the strikes are dead center.
I read somewhere on the forum here that incorrect OAL might cause primer problems. I was making shorter bullets but had mag problems with them so I changed the size to 1.140 and they feed perfectly.
Is it possible that I just have a bad batch of primers or does anyone have any other ideas?
Thanks
Its a CZ 75 SP-01. I checked every primer in the box and they all seemed to be seated properly.
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I just loaded about 250 rounds of 9mm using Montana Gold (CMJ) 147s, Accurate No. 7 powder and Win SP Primers (OAL at 1.140). Four rounds of these did not fire because the primer failed to ignite. The primer looks like it was seated properly and the strikes are dead center.
I read somewhere on the forum here that incorrect OAL might cause primer problems. I was making shorter bullets but had mag problems with them so I changed the size to 1.140 and they feed perfectly.
Is it possible that I just have a bad batch of primers or does anyone have any other ideas?
Thanks
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Can anyone give me load data for Montana Gold 121 IFPs, 9 mm? I am using Accurate No. 7 and they only provide data for a 124 bullet with an OAL of 1.095. If you have a suggested OAL for the 121s that would be very helpful too.
Thanks.
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AJ's right, that's the OAL they give for their 147 grain data. The problem here (which AJ probably doesn't know) is that the bullet used - the 147 grain Hornady XTP - is a boattail hollowpoint designed to keep the case from bulging.
If they chamber, go ahead and shoot them - they're probably safe...but you need a longer OAL. Scout454's recommendations are about right.
Thanks Chuck. I put a bunch in my mag and they chambered fine. Maybe next batch i will make a tad longer. Appreciate the advice.
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What's the overall length? The 147s are a long bullet for 9x19; it may just be the desirable evidence of a well-sized case, or it might be seated too deeply. Check to make sure it chambers in your gun before you load any more. If it does, you're golden; if not, dig out the bullet puller and try again. It's not like you'd be the first one on this forum to do that.
Assuming you've got enough freebore, the longer you load it, the better.Thanks. The OAL is 1.095. A friend of mine told me to try the 147s. I also loaded some 124s (same OAL), they are shorter and don't bulge as much. I just made 50 each and am going to test fire them tomorrow.
That OAL seems awfully short for a 147. I load 147 FMJ's to 1.145 to 1.160 depending on the bullet. At that length they'll run in a Glock. 124 flat point's and hollow points seem to work best at 1.140.
Well I used Accurate Number 7 and that was the OAL they used in their reloading guide for 147s.
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What's the overall length? The 147s are a long bullet for 9x19; it may just be the desirable evidence of a well-sized case, or it might be seated too deeply. Check to make sure it chambers in your gun before you load any more. If it does, you're golden; if not, dig out the bullet puller and try again. It's not like you'd be the first one on this forum to do that. Assuming you've got enough freebore, the longer you load it, the better.
Thanks. The OAL is 1.095. A friend of mine told me to try the 147s. I also loaded some 124s (same OAL), they are shorter and don't bulge as much. I just made 50 each and am going to test fire them tomorrow.
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I just loaded some 9mm with a 147 gr Montana Gold bullet. Everything looks perfect except there is a slight bulge half way down the case at the base of the bullet.
Is this normal or is it a problem?
Thanks
Assuming you've got enough freebore, the longer you load it, the better.
Vision
in Tips for Improvement
Posted
Does anyone know a good optometrist in South Florida who will work with me to develop a prescription for shooting glasses. I've been messing with this for three years and while mono-vision glasses help, it's not a resolution to the vision problem for me.
Thanks